My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

On 6/16/2019 7:58 AM, wrote:
My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

Follow manufacturer's recommendations.

--

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 08:24:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/16/2019 7:58 AM, wrote:
My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

Follow manufacturer's recommendations.
If you use penzoil, change every 3000. Same with Quaker State.
Using a more highly refined oil with less parafins (Like Castrol GTX)
go 5000. Or use synthetic and go 10,000.

Really - it's not just mileage - it's how the miles are put on - short
trips, high temperaturs, al kinds of things come into play.

On 6/16/2019 7:58 AM, wrote:
My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

Â* I think Pennzoil will gunk up your engine with paraffin deposits . I
use Castrol GTX in all my bikes and automobiles and change it every 5-6
thousand miles . Injected motors burn so much cleaner than carbed motors
that I think they can go longer between changes . I also use Wix filters
, best filter on the market IMO .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've
been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with
the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the
body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that
are punched outward, if that makes any sense.

On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded
into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the
brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the
Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA
Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a
bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with
the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I
haven't used anything else since .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded
into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the
brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the
Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA
Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a
bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with
the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I
haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over
all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.

But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?

--

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Â*Â* Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won
over all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil
filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1,
Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending
who's doing the test and what model filter.

Â* Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley
riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding
"what's best for my ride" ...

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

In article ,
says...

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've
been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with
the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the
body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that
are punched outward, if that makes any sense.





I knew a few that worked at a WIX filter factory. They made filters for
several brands. Some were the same with a different paint job and some
were different internally.

My son worked for Lance ( a snack food company). They had a product
similar to Oreo cookies. When the Oreo company could not make enough
Oreos, Lance would make the cookies for them.

Lots of companies sell either the very same or similar items made at one
factory. Sometimes the product is the same , sometimes it is slightly
different and not the same quality.

On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?


The great oil debate continues. The debate nowadays is how long between
changes.

If your vehicle requires 10w-30, then that's what you need to use. Brand
is a matter of preference, though, I prefer Pennzoil also. What matters
most is the grade.

Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

"Meanie" wrote in message ...
On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html

I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues.

In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.

Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting
money.

Corse it is.

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 04:48:16 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.

Nobody was talking to you, you lonely senile pest!

--
Marland's answer to senile Rodent's statement, "I don't leak":
"That¢s because so much **** and ****e emanates from your gob that there is
nothing left to exit normally, your arsehole has clammed shut through disuse
and the end of prick is only clear because you are such a ******."
Message-ID:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 04:48:16 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



"Meanie" wrote in message ...
On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html

I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues.

In fact 10K is the manufacturer recommendation with my Hyundai Getz.


12,000 km / 7500 miles / 6 months per my Kia manual.
I usually go ~ 9000 km. ... it's time to add and the oil is
looking dirty.
With my several old Taurus 3 litre cars - I'd change the oil
a little earlier than the manual recommendation ~ 7000 km
and it would still look new - not darkened.
John T.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.
Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -

"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.
Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -

Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car
for other reasons.

On 06/16/2019 02:50 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -

That's been my theory.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:50:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.
Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -

How do you figure that.
Gas is the most expensive part of the cost of running a car by far,
like 10x every other part except maybe depreciation if you insist on
buying them new and you don't drive much. That is based in detailed
records when I was claiming car mileage on my taxes. Gas is 10-12
cents a mile at 20 MPG. A lot of cars won't even average that and your
gas is much more than $2.50 a gallon. It is more than that here most
of the time to.
Oil changes are probably the biggest maintenance expense, particularly
if you take it to someone every 3000 miles (1 to 1.25 cents a mile)
The only other thing close is tires and that will depend on how fancy
the tires are.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 11:28:26 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html



A single oil analysis means NOTHING. You need to do them at regular
intervals to determine trends. When does metal contamination start to
accellerate? What about acid levels?. As soon as you find out where
the metal contaminatio nstarts you know the oil SHOULD have been
changed earlier. Same with the acids, and other "bad" stuff.

Once you have the trends you adjust your changes accordingly and
reduce your monitoring to the later stages.

In article ,
says...

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?



Follow the makers recommendations. I had a 1990 Camery and I think the
change was at 7500 miles. With the way I drive (mostly to work 15miles
each way) I put close to enough miles on the car I changed it twice a
year. Once at the anual state inspection and once 6 months later. Put
190,000 miles on it before getting a new car. Had no engine problems.

If you live in an area with dirt roads, drive only a mile or two each
time, or put the car to hard use , then the 3000 might be ok, but for
normal use I would go to atleast 5000 and maybe more if the manual says
so.

I don't put many miles on the cars now,so it is once a year when I get
it inspected that I have the oil and filter changed. I only had 3500 on
one car last year but had it serviced and oil changed.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 10:56:22 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?



Follow the makers recommendations. I had a 1990 Camery and I think the
change was at 7500 miles. With the way I drive (mostly to work 15miles
each way) I put close to enough miles on the car I changed it twice a
year. Once at the anual state inspection and once 6 months later. Put
190,000 miles on it before getting a new car. Had no engine problems.

If you live in an area with dirt roads, drive only a mile or two each
time, or put the car to hard use , then the 3000 might be ok, but for
normal use I would go to atleast 5000 and maybe more if the manual says
so.

I don't put many miles on the cars now,so it is once a year when I get
it inspected that I have the oil and filter changed. I only had 3500 on
one car last year but had it serviced and oil changed.
My recommendation to my customers when Iwas in the business was to
follow the "severe service" schedule as better than90% of noth
american driving meets 1 or more of the conditions called out for
severe service.

On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?


Depends on driving conditions. Most cars can easily go 5000 or even
7500 miles on good oil. With synthetics some car makers are now 10,000
miles between changes.

If you drive short distances in the cold, go with the lower end.
otherwise 5000 or more is fine. Check your owner's manual.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?

On 06/16/2019 10:00 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?


My Toyota manual calls for 5000 mile intervals and that's when the dash
light goes on. I assume Toyota is being conservative to cover all sorts
of use including the short trip people.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001). My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy.
Put gas in it and drive.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:11:48 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001). My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy.
Put gas in it and drive.
It's what killed so many chrysler v6 2.7 engines. Also gave VW
1.8T engines a bad name.Toyota 3 liters from '97 to 2002 also had the
issue. GM timing chain failures were another lubrication related
failure. If you went by the OLM to tell you when to change oil you
were pretty much guaranteed a failure eventually - which is why GM
recallibrated the OLM.

OLD cars were not as sensitive to it as the "newer" engines - nineties
and early two thousands.

Oil changed by the severe usage cycle, and particularly those running
synthetic oil changed regularly, did NOT have the problems
A local chrysler mechanic said he never saw a 2.7 fail "when properly
maintained" and they replaced TONS of them. The Toyota dealer said
the same. They had NO failures among their customers who followed
THEIR recommendation - "follow the extreme use schedule" - or those
running synthetic oil on the regular cycle.

VW owners using synthetic oil had a lot fewer problems as well.

Going back to the 2.6 liter Mitsu****ty engines Chrysler used in the
K and C series, and mini-vans the 6 foot long timing chains didn't
rattle and the balance shafts didn't sieze either if the oil was
changed often,

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...


It's what killed so many chrysler v6 2.7 engines. Also gave VW
1.8T engines a bad name.Toyota 3 liters from '97 to 2002 also had the
issue. GM timing chain failures were another lubrication related
failure. If you went by the OLM to tell you when to change oil you
were pretty much guaranteed a failure eventually - which is why GM
recallibrated the OLM.

OLD cars were not as sensitive to it as the "newer" engines - nineties
and early two thousands.

Oil changed by the severe usage cycle, and particularly those running
synthetic oil changed regularly, did NOT have the problems
A local chrysler mechanic said he never saw a 2.7 fail "when properly
maintained" and they replaced TONS of them. The Toyota dealer said
the same. They had NO failures among their customers who followed
THEIR recommendation - "follow the extreme use schedule" - or those
running synthetic oil on the regular cycle.

VW owners using synthetic oil had a lot fewer problems as well.

Going back to the 2.6 liter Mitsu****ty engines Chrysler used in the
K and C series, and mini-vans the 6 foot long timing chains didn't
rattle and the balance shafts didn't sieze either if the oil was
changed often,


Clare, did you hear of the Chrysler Hemi wiping the cam from the needle
bearings falling out of the rocker roller in spite of syn oil @ 5k?
They should do a recall.

--
Tekkie

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001).

Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?

My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy.
Put gas in it and drive.

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001).

Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?


Florida. They lived at the beach.

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?

You can ALWAYS rely on THAT senile Yankietard to feed you, eh, senile
Rodent? BG

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:

wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?

I switched to synthetic in truck and now sounds better. Lifter collapse and
plugged valve oil screen common on my Chevy truck. I also stay in 8
cylinder mode, and 4 cylinder mode eats oil.

Greg

On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.

Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.

Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.

At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.
"If you have to ask how much, you can't afford it"

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.