Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#41
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 06/16/2019 03:59 PM, Levi Jones wrote:
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote: Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers guide in the manual. I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live. It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit 60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been 12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000 but they needed to set some figure. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from some places: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to 10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting money. Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at 3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - - Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - - Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car for other reasons. My Toyota manual is pretty boring. Every 5000 miles change the oil, replace the filter, and rotate the tires. I cheat on the latter since I have a separate set of studs so they get rotated twice a year, Thanksgiving weekend and whenever it thaws out. I did notice from my log that this year was the latest I've went back to summer tires. Global warming, dontcha know. |
#42
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 06/16/2019 02:28 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO . I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense. Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I haven't used anything else since . Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing the test and what model filter. Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding "what's best for my ride" ... Except for Harley... Never, never use synthetic oil. Last time I was at the dealers it was hard to find anything other than synthetic. Of course it's extra special H-D synthetic. Sport-Trans has went the way of the dodo. After I use up my stash of special Suzuki and Harley lubricants they'll all get Rotella and like it. The V-Strom already is there. |
#43
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 07:59:12 +1000, "Levi Jones"
wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message .. . On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote: Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers guide in the manual. I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live. It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit 60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been 12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000 but they needed to set some figure. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from some places: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to 10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting money. Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at 3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - - Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - - Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car for other reasons. Don't put the oil in and see what a rebuild costs - - - - - |
#44
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 15:28:50 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote: On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote: I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO . I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense. ** Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I haven't used anything else since . Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing the test and what model filter. * Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding "what's best for my ride" ... Real Harleys didn't have oil filters. |
#46
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:50:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote: Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers guide in the manual. I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live. It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit 60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been 12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000 but they needed to set some figure. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from some places: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to 10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting money. Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at 3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - - Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - - How do you figure that. Gas is the most expensive part of the cost of running a car by far, like 10x every other part except maybe depreciation if you insist on buying them new and you don't drive much. That is based in detailed records when I was claiming car mileage on my taxes. Gas is 10-12 cents a mile at 20 MPG. A lot of cars won't even average that and your gas is much more than $2.50 a gallon. It is more than that here most of the time to. Oil changes are probably the biggest maintenance expense, particularly if you take it to someone every 3000 miles (1 to 1.25 cents a mile) The only other thing close is tires and that will depend on how fancy the tires are. |
#47
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:11:48 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously. EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification. I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy. Put gas in it and drive. It's what killed so many chrysler v6 2.7 engines. Also gave VW 1.8T engines a bad name.Toyota 3 liters from '97 to 2002 also had the issue. GM timing chain failures were another lubrication related failure. If you went by the OLM to tell you when to change oil you were pretty much guaranteed a failure eventually - which is why GM recallibrated the OLM. OLD cars were not as sensitive to it as the "newer" engines - nineties and early two thousands. Oil changed by the severe usage cycle, and particularly those running synthetic oil changed regularly, did NOT have the problems A local chrysler mechanic said he never saw a 2.7 fail "when properly maintained" and they replaced TONS of them. The Toyota dealer said the same. They had NO failures among their customers who followed THEIR recommendation - "follow the extreme use schedule" - or those running synthetic oil on the regular cycle. VW owners using synthetic oil had a lot fewer problems as well. Going back to the 2.6 liter Mitsu****ty engines Chrysler used in the K and C series, and mini-vans the 6 foot long timing chains didn't rattle and the balance shafts didn't sieze either if the oil was changed often, |
#48
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . |
#49
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 07:59:12 +1000, "Levi Jones" wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message . .. On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote: Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers guide in the manual. I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live. It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit 60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been 12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000 but they needed to set some figure. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from some places: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to 10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting money. Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at 3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - - Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - - Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car for other reasons. Don't put the oil in and see what a rebuild costs - - - - - I did that with a 73 Golf which I drove for 45 years and it didn't ever cost a cent to have the engine rebuilt. |
#50
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
|
#51
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
|
#52
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously. EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification. I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ? My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy. Put gas in it and drive. |
#53
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:38:42 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . A tail light can be $800. |
#54
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. "If you have to ask how much, you can't afford it" |
#55
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:03:02 -0600, rbowman
wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:01 PM, wrote: Real Harleys didn't have oil filters. You mean before 1937? You don't need no stinkin' filter with a total loss system I never saw a filter in anything up through the mid 70s. There might have been a screen in the tank but there was nothing I would call an oil filter. |
#56
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. |
#57
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously. EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification. I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ? Florida. They lived at the beach. |
#58
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. |
#59
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously. EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification. I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ? Florida. They lived at the beach. Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust obscenity. |
#60
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? I switched to synthetic in truck and now sounds better. Lifter collapse and plugged valve oil screen common on my Chevy truck. I also stay in 8 cylinder mode, and 4 cylinder mode eats oil. Greg |
#61
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ? You can ALWAYS rely on THAT senile Yankietard to feed you, eh, senile Rodent? BG -- "Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed: "You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad little ignorant ****." MID: |
#62
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:00:59 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust obscenity. Were you, you driveling senile asshole? BG -- about senile Rot Speed: "This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage." MID: |
#63
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn. |
#64
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 9:38:54 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. Or the reverse. When BMW had the oil changes at 15K, they were also bundling in free routine maintenance for the first 100K. My suspicion would be that they pushed it, to save them money, found out there were problems and backed off to 10K. Always went at 10K here anyway. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. A friend of mine has a Honda. Dealer did the oil change, recommended new engine air filter and new cabin filter at like 15K miles, $150. If he did it that day though, special deal, $99. It took me a few minutes to find the filters online. I had to buy two of the engine ones, one of the cabin. Why two? Because then it qualified for free shipping, so it was like getting one for free, $30 total. It took me 10 mins to change both. And now he has an extra engine filter for next time. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . You mean you're not a believer in their new battery registration concept? Where the dealer has to enter information into the computer to tell it that it has a new battery? Couple years ago, their top of the line twin turbo, bad ass V-8 car was a real embarrassment. They knew batteries would not last, so they were specified as a routine replacement, every oil change I think it was. They do a lot of things really well, but some things are just outrageous. |
#65
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 11:52:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. IDK about that. The most failure prone thing in Mercedes with automatic air conditioning from the 70s is this automated widget that controls the heat and cooling. It's about the size of a grapefruit, has a motor, gear drive that rotates through positions that make and break circuits to control the fan, compressor, defrost, etc and it also activates the vacuum lines that control the flaps. And part of it is a valve through which circulate hot engine coolant, it controls the flow to the heater core. Can't see any problems with that thing, right? Electric, vacuum, hot engine coolant all in one complex place? They had horrible failures, typically leaking when the plastic housing cracked. When they were last available they were $750. And who made that? Not MB, but Chrysler they designed it for their Imperials. But I can see why the Germans liked it, enormously complicated, elegant and precise when it works. |
#66
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 6/16/2019 3:16 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 03:59 PM, Levi Jones wrote: "Clare Snyder" wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote: Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers guide in the manual. I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live. It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit 60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been 12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000 but they needed to set some figure. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from some places: https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to 10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000 mileage change habit is wasting money. *Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at 3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - - Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - - Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car for other reasons. My Toyota manual is pretty boring. Every 5000 miles change the oil, replace the filter, and rotate the tires. I cheat on the latter since I have a separate set of studs so they get rotated twice a year, Thanksgiving weekend and whenever it thaws out. I did notice from my log that this year was the latest I've went back to summer tires. Global warming, dontcha know. A little light reading for deniers. https://www.washingtonpost.com/weath...=.2984ef88224f |
#67
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. |
#68
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:00:59 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed" wrote: wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote: My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys? I think you are wasting oil. 3000 miles is far too frequent. When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure, even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years? Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously. EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification. I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ? Florida. They lived at the beach. Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust obscenity. If you are not living in a place where salt crusts on the body it probably would not be an issue. They were living on Cape San Blas on a spit of land less than a half mile wide out in the gulf and salt water on both sides. My 21 year old Prelude is doing OK. |
#69
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - |
#70
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. |
#71
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:08:55 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. I had a 58 and it certainly would not do 65. |
#72
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 06/17/2019 12:29 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. Probably odd for a member of my generation but I only rode in a Beetle once, and drove one about 100' to get it away from a loading dock. I was fascinated by the concept of an easily repairable vehicle where parts could be mixed and matched across the years but never got around to buying one. The closest I ever got was a model old enough to have the little stalks that popped out for turn signals but it needed a lot of work. |
#73
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new. My father had an Pan Am airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles on his layovers in Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them for a lot less that the car would cost at a dealer. I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's. At that point, it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas so I decided to trade it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent shape otherwise. But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car and wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil-burning. I told her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at each fill up, the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it to her for a very low price. Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it. She came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really meant it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning about adding a quart per tankful were just an office joke. Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew! -- Ever notice the shortage of "armed law-abiding citizen victim tragedy stories in the news? |
#74
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
"Wade Garrett" wrote in message ... On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new. Me too. My father had an Pan Am airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles on his layovers in Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them for a lot less that the car would cost at a dealer. I bought mine from the dealer. I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's. Yeah, me too. At that point, it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas Mine didnt. so I decided to trade it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent shape otherwise. I traded mine in on a Golf/Rabbit, because by then I had a ****ing great alsatian dog who was obsessed with having his head out the window when I was driving around and the bugger used to slobber all down the back of my neck in the summer. With the Golf he got his own window and the heater was so good I could let him do that right thru the winter on a long distance trip. But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car and wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil- burning. I told her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at each fill up, the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it to her for a very low price. I traded mine in to the VW dealer who gave it to one of his kids that worked in the dealership and he used it for at least 10 years more. May well still have it, I havent come across him for decades. Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it. She came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really meant it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning about adding a quart per tankful were just an office joke. Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew! |
#75
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!
On Tue, 18 Jun 2019 08:57:14 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: Me too. Nobody gives a ****, senile Ozzie pest! -- about senile Rodent Speed: "This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage." MID: |
#76
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 6/17/2019 10:06 AM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes.* My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me.* Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K.* If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits,* pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn. As with the Chinese there is a mismatch in import duties in their favor. I think we also have to pay their VAT. Our younger two sons started with BMW's but now own Japanese cars which are better, less expensive and more reliable. |
#77
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Monday, June 17, 2019 at 8:08:32 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/17/2019 10:06 AM, Meanie wrote: On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote: On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote: Castrol extended and change oil Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes.* My new car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6 months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them to follow the service manual. Doesn't sound like 2x to me.* Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K.* If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right. At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits,* pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot. BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn. As with the Chinese there is a mismatch in import duties in their favor. I think we also have to pay their VAT. Our younger two sons started with BMW's but now own Japanese cars which are better, less expensive and more reliable. Yeah, maybe BMW should just give up, close the plant in Spartanburg, SC, where they build X3, X4, X5 and X6s and export 70% of them. Make America great again. |
#78
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On 06/17/2019 04:48 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew! A friend referred to that as 'sinchas' as in 'Ever since you...' It also applies to repairing anything for acquaintances. Months later completely unrelated problems are your fault. |
#79
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 18:48:59 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote: On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new. My father had an Pan Am airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles on his layovers in Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them for a lot less that the car would cost at a dealer. I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's. At that point, it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas so I decided to trade it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent shape otherwise. But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car and wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil-burning. I told her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at each fill up, the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it to her for a very low price. Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it. She came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really meant it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning about adding a quart per tankful were just an office joke. Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew! Was it burning the oil or just leaking? Those push rod tubes were famous for dripping. There were a few tricks to plug the leak but the right fix was to pull the jugs and put in new tubes. On an old VW, dropping the engine was a 2 hour thing and more like an hour the second time you did it. Two guys could easily hold it or one guy (me) and a floor jack. I bought a 58 bug and made a dune buggy out of it. Before it was over, I got to know quite a bit about VWs. |
#80
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Type of oil
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:08:55 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM, wrote: On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman wrote: On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote: BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. . That philosophy has carried over to their bikes. Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain. One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash. I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the engine and drive wheels in front. In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed. If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an issue. That was about all they would do. The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you were going downhill with a tailwind - - - - I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph. The 49 was 25HP - 10 taxable HP - and it was 24 years old at the time. 24 HARD years beating across south central Africa.. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Circuit Breakers: Murray Type MP-T vs. Siemens Type QP | Home Repair | |||
Tub drain: Standard lever type vs pop up type | Home Repair | |||
New type of screws v older type | UK diy |