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On 06/16/2019 03:59 PM, Levi Jones wrote:


"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the
manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The
shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html








I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the
car for other reasons.


My Toyota manual is pretty boring. Every 5000 miles change the oil,
replace the filter, and rotate the tires. I cheat on the latter since I
have a separate set of studs so they get rotated twice a year,
Thanksgiving weekend and whenever it thaws out.

I did notice from my log that this year was the latest I've went back to
summer tires. Global warming, dontcha know.
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On 06/16/2019 02:28 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won
over all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil
filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1,
Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending
who's doing the test and what model filter.


Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley
riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding
"what's best for my ride" ...


Except for Harley... Never, never use synthetic oil. Last time I was at
the dealers it was hard to find anything other than synthetic. Of course
it's extra special H-D synthetic. Sport-Trans has went the way of the
dodo.

After I use up my stash of special Suzuki and Harley lubricants they'll
all get Rotella and like it. The V-Strom already is there.

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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 07:59:12 +1000, "Levi Jones"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car
for other reasons.

Don't put the oil in and see what a rebuild costs - - - - -
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 15:28:50 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:24 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 1:42 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/16/2019 12:12 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:31 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
I also use Wix filters , best filter on the market IMO .

I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter.
I've been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to
do with the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and
threaded into the body of the filter and I find it easier to start
than the brands that are punched outward, if that makes any sense.


** Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC
the Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the
NAPA Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List
cut up a bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the
cheesiest with the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won
over all , and I haven't used anything else since .


Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil
filters and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1,
Bosch, Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending
who's doing the test and what model filter.


* Well , I can't think of a less biased group than a bunch of Harley
riders - virtually all of them/us wrench on our own bikes - deciding
"what's best for my ride" ...


Real Harleys didn't have oil filters.
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:50:40 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either. You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at 20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


How do you figure that.
Gas is the most expensive part of the cost of running a car by far,
like 10x every other part except maybe depreciation if you insist on
buying them new and you don't drive much. That is based in detailed
records when I was claiming car mileage on my taxes. Gas is 10-12
cents a mile at 20 MPG. A lot of cars won't even average that and your
gas is much more than $2.50 a gallon. It is more than that here most
of the time to.
Oil changes are probably the biggest maintenance expense, particularly
if you take it to someone every 3000 miles (1 to 1.25 cents a mile)
The only other thing close is tires and that will depend on how fancy
the tires are.
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:11:48 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?

Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.


I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001). My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy.
Put gas in it and drive.

It's what killed so many chrysler v6 2.7 engines. Also gave VW
1.8T engines a bad name.Toyota 3 liters from '97 to 2002 also had the
issue. GM timing chain failures were another lubrication related
failure. If you went by the OLM to tell you when to change oil you
were pretty much guaranteed a failure eventually - which is why GM
recallibrated the OLM.

OLD cars were not as sensitive to it as the "newer" engines - nineties
and early two thousands.

Oil changed by the severe usage cycle, and particularly those running
synthetic oil changed regularly, did NOT have the problems
A local chrysler mechanic said he never saw a 2.7 fail "when properly
maintained" and they replaced TONS of them. The Toyota dealer said
the same. They had NO failures among their customers who followed
THEIR recommendation - "follow the extreme use schedule" - or those
running synthetic oil on the regular cycle.

VW owners using synthetic oil had a lot fewer problems as well.

Going back to the 2.6 liter Mitsu****ty engines Chrysler used in the
K and C series, and mini-vans the 6 foot long timing chains didn't
rattle and the balance shafts didn't sieze either if the oil was
changed often,
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil


Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.


Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.


At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .
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"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 07:59:12 +1000, "Levi Jones"
wrote:



"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the
manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil then.
I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to
Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The
shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at
20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit
from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html







I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.
Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the
car
for other reasons.


Don't put the oil in and see what a rebuild costs - - - - -


I did that with a 73 Golf which I drove for 45 years and it didn't ever
cost a cent to have the engine rebuilt.

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On 06/16/2019 07:01 PM, wrote:
Real Harleys didn't have oil filters.


You mean before 1937? You don't need no stinkin' filter with a total
loss system


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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:38:42 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM,
wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.


Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.


At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

A tail light can be $800.
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:03:02 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:01 PM, wrote:
Real Harleys didn't have oil filters.


You mean before 1937? You don't need no stinkin' filter with a total
loss system

I never saw a filter in anything up through the mid 70s. There might
have been a screen in the tank but there was nothing I would call an
oil filter.


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wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001).


Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?


Florida. They lived at the beach.


Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust
obscenity.

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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?


You can ALWAYS rely on THAT senile Yankietard to feed you, eh, senile
Rodent? BG

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:
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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:00:59 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust
obscenity.


Were you, you driveling senile asshole? BG

--
about senile Rot Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
MID:
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On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM,
wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.


Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.


At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .


My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars
but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for
cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're
correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem
with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part
cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted
again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn.
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On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 9:38:54 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM, wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes. My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period. Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell them
to follow the service manual.


Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.


At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else.


Or the reverse. When BMW had the oil changes at 15K, they were also
bundling in free routine maintenance for the first 100K. My suspicion
would be that they pushed it, to save them money, found out there were
problems and backed off to 10K. Always went at 10K here anyway.






That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.


A friend of mine has a Honda. Dealer did the oil change, recommended
new engine air filter and new cabin filter at like 15K miles, $150.
If he did it that day though, special deal, $99. It took me a few
minutes to find the filters online. I had to buy two of the engine
ones, one of the cabin. Why two? Because then it qualified for free
shipping, so it was like getting one for free, $30 total. It took
me 10 mins to change both. And now he has an extra engine filter for
next time.





BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .


You mean you're not a believer in their new battery registration concept?
Where the dealer has to enter information into the computer to tell it
that it has a new battery? Couple years ago, their top of the line
twin turbo, bad ass V-8 car was a real embarrassment. They knew batteries
would not last, so they were specified as a routine replacement, every
oil change I think it was. They do a lot of things really well, but
some things are just outrageous.

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On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 11:52:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM, wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .


That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.


Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


IDK about that. The most failure prone thing in Mercedes with automatic
air conditioning from the 70s is this automated widget that controls
the heat and cooling. It's about the size of a grapefruit, has a motor,
gear drive that rotates through positions that make and break circuits
to control the fan, compressor, defrost, etc and it also activates the
vacuum lines that control the flaps. And part of it is a valve through
which circulate hot engine coolant, it controls the flow to the heater
core. Can't see any problems with that thing, right? Electric, vacuum,
hot engine coolant all in one complex place? They had horrible failures,
typically leaking when the plastic housing cracked. When they were
last available they were $750. And who made that? Not MB, but Chrysler
they designed it for their Imperials. But I can see why the Germans
liked it, enormously complicated, elegant and precise when it works.


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On 6/16/2019 3:16 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 03:59 PM, Levi Jones wrote:


"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:17:43 -0400, Meanie wrote:

On 6/16/2019 1:28 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/16/2019 07:41 AM, Meanie wrote:
Today's engines are well designed to drive farther than the 3000 mile
change, especially if using synthetic blends. Though, you didn't
provide
vehicle info, I'll guess it as within 10 years old and the 5000 mile
change will not hurt it, thus, the 3000 surely won't hurt either.
You're
just spending more money. It is recommended to follow the
manufacturers
guide in the manual.

I get the maintenance light every 5000 miles and change the oil
then. I
was on vacation so I'm over this time but it will live.

It's a different animal but when a company I worked for went to
Detroit
60 diesels they also started to do oil analysis. The protocol had been
12000 miles for oil and filters but it was lengthened to 20000. The
shop
manager said they still weren't seeing significant degradation at
20000
but they needed to set some figure.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

Some airport FBO's can send a sample to a lab or you can get a kit
from
some places:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...lling-you.html









I've heard/read similar stories about engine mileage being extended to
10,000 or more without issues. Many experts also note that the old 3000
mileage change habit is wasting money.
*Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at
3 - and you end up replacing or rebuilding an engine -- - -

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your
engine - - - - - -


Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the
car for other reasons.


My Toyota manual is pretty boring. Every 5000 miles change the oil,
replace the filter, and rotate the tires. I cheat on the latter since I
have a separate set of studs so they get rotated twice a year,
Thanksgiving weekend and whenever it thaws out.

I did notice from my log that this year was the latest I've went back to
summer tires. Global warming, dontcha know.


A little light reading for deniers.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/weath...=.2984ef88224f
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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:00:59 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:10:45 +1000, "Rod Speed"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:42:04 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 12:00:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 05:58:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000
miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000
miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?

I think you are wasting oil.
3000 miles is far too frequent.
When was the last time you heard about an oil related engine failure,
even with people who run the same oil for a couple of years?
Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or
who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of
them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change
specification.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars
that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a
total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but
the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only
got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord
in 2001).

Was that where salt is used on the roads in winter or in Florida ?


Florida. They lived at the beach.


Interesting. I was considering a Honda but won't now with that rust
obscenity.


If you are not living in a place where salt crusts on the body it
probably would not be an issue. They were living on Cape San Blas on a
spit of land less than a half mile wide out in the gulf and salt water
on both sides.

My 21 year old Prelude is doing OK.

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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.


If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.

The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph.


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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:08:55 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.

If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.

The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph.


I had a 58 and it certainly would not do 65.
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On 06/17/2019 12:29 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.


If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.


Probably odd for a member of my generation but I only rode in a Beetle
once, and drove one about 100' to get it away from a loading dock. I was
fascinated by the concept of an easily repairable vehicle where parts
could be mixed and matched across the years but never got around to
buying one. The closest I ever got was a model old enough to have the
little stalks that popped out for turn signals but it needed a lot of work.


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On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.

If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.

The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph.

I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new. My father had an Pan Am
airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles on his layovers in
Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them for a lot less
that the car would cost at a dealer.

I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's. At that point,
it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas so I decided to trade
it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent shape otherwise.

But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car
and wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil-burning. I told
her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at each fill up,
the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it to her for a
very low price.

Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it.
She came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really
meant it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning
about adding a quart per tankful were just an office joke.

Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew!

--
Ever notice the shortage of "armed law-abiding citizen victim tragedy
stories in the news?
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"Wade Garrett" wrote in message
...
On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German
is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit
since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put
the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.

If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.
The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP
did 65-70 mph.


I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new.


Me too.

My father had an Pan Am airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles
on his layovers in Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them
for a lot less that the car would cost at a dealer.


I bought mine from the dealer.

I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's.


Yeah, me too.

At that point, it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas


Mine didnt.

so I decided to trade it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent
shape otherwise.


I traded mine in on a Golf/Rabbit, because by then I had a ****ing
great alsatian dog who was obsessed with having his head out the
window when I was driving around and the bugger used to slobber
all down the back of my neck in the summer. With the Golf he got
his own window and the heater was so good I could let him do
that right thru the winter on a long distance trip.

But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car and
wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil-
burning. I told her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at
each fill up, the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it
to her for a very low price.


I traded mine in to the VW dealer who gave it to one of his kids
that worked in the dealership and he used it for at least 10 years
more. May well still have it, I havent come across him for decades.

Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it. She
came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really meant
it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning about adding
a quart per tankful were just an office joke.


Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew!



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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert!

On Tue, 18 Jun 2019 08:57:14 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Me too.


Nobody gives a ****, senile Ozzie pest!

--
about senile Rodent Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
MID:


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On 6/17/2019 10:06 AM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM,
wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes.* My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are
both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period.
Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell
them
to follow the service manual.

Doesn't sound like 2x to me.* Cars were at 5K intervals with regular
oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K.* If you only get 6K on
synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.


At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits,* pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .


My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars
but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for
cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're
correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem
with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part
cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted
again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn.


As with the Chinese there is a mismatch in import duties in their favor.
I think we also have to pay their VAT. Our younger two sons started
with BMW's but now own Japanese cars which are better, less expensive
and more reliable.
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On Monday, June 17, 2019 at 8:08:32 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/17/2019 10:06 AM, Meanie wrote:
On 6/16/2019 9:38 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:09:55 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 12:05:02 PM UTC-4, Frank wrote:
On 6/16/2019 8:58 AM,
wrote:
Castrol extended and change oil

Synthetic oils allow for twice the mileage between oil changes.* My new
car uses it and change interval in the manual is 6,000 miles or every 6
months. The Castrol is synthetic and the Pennzoil is not so you are
both
right except the mechanic has shortened the synthetic period.
Mechanics
and service centers are looking for business and it is best to tell
them
to follow the service manual.

Doesn't sound like 2x to me.* Cars were at 5K intervals with regular
oil.
Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some
problems because they backed off to 10K.* If you only get 6K on
synthetic,
something doesn't sound right.

At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping
they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer
guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change"
chits,* pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one
they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a
price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you
pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of
the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy
to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3).
It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the
time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .


My friends wife always likes the BMWs, Audis and other more luxury cars
but complains when the things need repair and constantly looks for
cheaper solutions. They had an X3 which needed a battery and you're
correct, the damn thing was close to $500. There was another problem
with a small part on the transmission, fairly easy fix, but the part
cost $800 new. They ended up selling it and guess what she wanted
again..., another beemer but instead, got the Audi. They won't learn.


As with the Chinese there is a mismatch in import duties in their favor.
I think we also have to pay their VAT. Our younger two sons started
with BMW's but now own Japanese cars which are better, less expensive
and more reliable.



Yeah, maybe BMW should just give up, close the plant in Spartanburg, SC,
where they build X3, X4, X5 and X6s and export 70% of them. Make
America great again.



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On 06/17/2019 04:48 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:

Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew!


A friend referred to that as 'sinchas' as in 'Ever since you...' It also
applies to repairing anything for acquaintances. Months later completely
unrelated problems are your fault.


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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 18:48:59 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote:

On 6/17/19 5:08 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.

If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.
The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph.

I had a '66, the first car I ever bought new. My father had an Pan Am
airline pilot buddy with a side-gig buying Beetles on his layovers in
Germany, He imported them back to the US and sold them for a lot less
that the car would cost at a dealer.

I really liked the car and drove it until the early 70's. At that point,
it was burning a quart of oil per tankful of gas so I decided to trade
it on a new car, although it was in pretty decent shape otherwise.

But one of the secretaries in my office said she wanted to buy the car
and wasn't scared off by what I told her about the oil-burning. I told
her emphatically that if she didn't add a quart of oil at each fill up,
the engine would seize... and somewhat reluctantly, sold it to her for a
very low price.

Long story short- she didn't and it did- the first month she owned it.
She came back at me madder than hell- saying I didn't think you really
meant it about the oil. She said she thought my stories and warning
about adding a quart per tankful were just an office joke.

Last time I sold anything to anyone I knew!


Was it burning the oil or just leaking? Those push rod tubes were
famous for dripping. There were a few tricks to plug the leak but the
right fix was to pull the jugs and put in new tubes. On an old VW,
dropping the engine was a 2 hour thing and more like an hour the
second time you did it. Two guys could easily hold it or one guy (me)
and a floor jack.
I bought a 58 bug and made a dune buggy out of it. Before it was over,
I got to know quite a bit about VWs.
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On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:08:55 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:49:24 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

On Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:29:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:45:01 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 09:52 PM,
wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2019 21:07:17 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 06/16/2019 07:38 PM,
wrote:
BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A ****ing
battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

That philosophy has carried over to their bikes.

Pretty soon you figure out why they lost the war. Everything German is
very expensive, over engineered and hard to maintain.
One exception might be the old VW bugs but even they had some strange
stuff, like threaded exhaust fittings. Then of course there was the
gas tank, guaranteed to arrive first at the crash.


I had an Audi back in the day. They must have improved quite a bit since
they're still in business. It took VW a bit to figure out how to put the
engine and drive wheels in front.

In its defense Nixon dreamed up the 55 mph speed limits after I bought
it and it really didn't have a gear to handle that speed.

If you had an old (36 HP) Beetle the 55 MPH speed limit wasn't an
issue. That was about all they would do.

The REALLY old beetle (mine was a 1949) anything over 45 you KNEW you
were going downhill with a tailwind - - - -


I commonly did 70-80 mph in my stock '64. 90 mph downhill. The 36 HP did 65-70 mph.

The 49 was 25HP - 10 taxable HP - and it was 24 years old at the
time. 24 HARD years beating across south central Africa..
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