The pressure tank switch kicks on at 52 psi. Should I inflate my new tank to 50 psi.

Thanks!

On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
The pressure tank switch kicks on at 52 psi. Should I inflate my new tank to 50 psi.

"ON" at 50???? That's far more typical of cutout pressure. Anything
much over that is surely likely to cause premature failures in toilet
valves, water hammer, etc., unless you've a PRV before the house
distribution.

But, the two-pounds below the cut-in is the rule of thumb but I
certainly have never seen a system operating at those pressures.

What's the head pressure of the pump?

--

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 1:06:28 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

The pressure tank switch kicks on at 52 psi. Should I inflate my new tank to 50 psi.



"ON" at 50???? That's far more typical of cutout pressure. Anything

much over that is surely likely to cause premature failures in toilet

valves, water hammer, etc., unless you've a PRV before the house

distribution.



But, the two-pounds below the cut-in is the rule of thumb but I

certainly have never seen a system operating at those pressures.



What's the head pressure of the pump?



--

I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok? Thanks.

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 11:18:44 AM UTC-7, Michael Wilson wrote:
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 1:06:28 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:

On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:



I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok? Thanks.

No. The pressure _tank_ does not regulate the kick in/out pressure, the pressure switch does that.

Normal settings for residence:

20-40 but rather uncommon. Problem with sprinklers, weak showers.
30-50 but some impulse sprinklers don't work well at the low end.
40-60 is the most common - gives good pressure, needle showers, sprinklers work well.

Pressures over 60 are not recommended for residence as it is hard on fixtures as 'dpb' said.

Note the standard difference is 20lbs between on/off.

If you really have 52 for the cut-in, your cutout then should be 72 - way too high. You need to adjust the pressure switch.

Most have one high screw and one or two shorter ones. the high screw moves the 20lb range up/down to get the cut-in/out where you want it. If you don't have a 20lb difference between cutin/out then the shorter screw(s) are used to adjust that.

Harry K

On 08/03/2014 1:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
....

I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line
running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch
kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure
tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok?
Thanks.

Not if that pressure indicator is at all accurate, no.

If the system is empty/open, does the gauge then read zero or is it way
out of whack, maybe? Take it off and be sure it does zero out. Also be
sure the feed tubing to it is clean of rust, etc., so it it gets a fair
view of actual pressure.

Here's at least a reasonably-arranged installation if not pretty--the
well feed would be from the rear, the outlet to the house on this side.

http://inspectapedia.com/water/Two_Harbors_2011_0420_DJFs.jpg

It needs to be pretty close proximity to the tank; if it's too far away
you're reading pressure wherever it is in the system which depending on
pipe sizing, etc., can be quite a bit different.

The bladder/diaphragm in the pressure tank is precisely size to the size
of the tank and the pressure differential between on and off and that 2
psi difference between it's dead pressure and the cut-in pressure. It
moves from fully up to fully extended where it is just at the top of the
outlet when reaching the cut-in pressure--too high and you don't get
much of the tank volume, too low and the bladder will actually extend to
the point it'll cut off the outlet by stretching too far.

You do need to get this right and if you don't have the skill set to get
it set up correctly, spend the bucks and get somebody out to do it
correctly--you'll save money in the long run by not screwing up
something more expensive to fix.

http://www.sprinklers4irrigation.com/en-us/pg_75.html

At least a minimum description.

Unlike Harry K, I'd say the 30-50 is by _far_ the most prevalent setting
I've ever encountered; we run 20-40 here on the farm and have been
content for 50+ years; run the house plus all the animal waterers (up to
1500 head worth) plus the lawn/garden (altho use the traveling
sprinklers rather than impulse sprinkler heads) and never have pressure
issues.

But, I wouldn't quibble with either altho I personally think 60 is too
high for household internal use for the aforementioned reasons.

--

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:40:43 PM UTC-4, Harry K wrote:
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 11:18:44 AM UTC-7, Michael Wilson wrote:

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 1:06:28 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:



On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:







I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok? Thanks.



No. The pressure _tank_ does not regulate the kick in/out pressure, the pressure switch does that.



Normal settings for residence:



20-40 but rather uncommon. Problem with sprinklers, weak showers.

30-50 but some impulse sprinklers don't work well at the low end.

40-60 is the most common - gives good pressure, needle showers, sprinklers work well.



Pressures over 60 are not recommended for residence as it is hard on fixtures as 'dpb' said.



Note the standard difference is 20lbs between on/off.



If you really have 52 for the cut-in, your cutout then should be 72 - way too high. You need to adjust the pressure switch.



Most have one high screw and one or two shorter ones. the high screw moves the 20lb range up/down to get the cut-in/out where you want it. If you don't have a 20lb difference between cutin/out then the shorter screw(s) are used to adjust that.



Harry K

I agree that 40 - 60 is typical. Not sure about the adjusting though.
I seem to recall that on mine at least one screw adjusted both cut-in and
cut-out, the other only adjusted one. But the pressure switches usually
have instructions on the inside of the cover. Or you can probably find
it online. I would think the tank manufacturers would have online stuff
about pressure settings too.

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:05:25 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 08/03/2014 1:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

...



I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line

running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch

kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure

tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok?

Thanks.



Not if that pressure indicator is at all accurate, no.



If the system is empty/open, does the gauge then read zero or is it way

out of whack, maybe? Take it off and be sure it does zero out. Also be

sure the feed tubing to it is clean of rust, etc., so it it gets a fair

view of actual pressure.



Here's at least a reasonably-arranged installation if not pretty--the

well feed would be from the rear, the outlet to the house on this side.



http://inspectapedia.com/water/Two_Harbors_2011_0420_DJFs.jpg



It needs to be pretty close proximity to the tank; if it's too far away

you're reading pressure wherever it is in the system which depending on

pipe sizing, etc., can be quite a bit different.



The bladder/diaphragm in the pressure tank is precisely size to the size

of the tank and the pressure differential between on and off and that 2

psi difference between it's dead pressure and the cut-in pressure. It

moves from fully up to fully extended where it is just at the top of the

outlet when reaching the cut-in pressure--too high and you don't get

much of the tank volume, too low and the bladder will actually extend to

the point it'll cut off the outlet by stretching too far.



You do need to get this right and if you don't have the skill set to get

it set up correctly, spend the bucks and get somebody out to do it

correctly--you'll save money in the long run by not screwing up

something more expensive to fix.



http://www.sprinklers4irrigation.com/en-us/pg_75.html



At least a minimum description.



Unlike Harry K, I'd say the 30-50 is by _far_ the most prevalent setting

I've ever encountered; we run 20-40 here on the farm and have been

content for 50+ years; run the house plus all the animal waterers (up to

1500 head worth) plus the lawn/garden (altho use the traveling

sprinklers rather than impulse sprinkler heads) and never have pressure

issues.



But, I wouldn't quibble with either altho I personally think 60 is too

high for household internal use for the aforementioned reasons.



--

Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60. Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?

Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:18:02 PM UTC-5, Michael Wilson wrote:
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:05:25 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:

On 08/03/2014 1:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:



...







I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line



running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch



kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure



tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok?



Thanks.







Not if that pressure indicator is at all accurate, no.







If the system is empty/open, does the gauge then read zero or is it way



out of whack, maybe? Take it off and be sure it does zero out. Also be



sure the feed tubing to it is clean of rust, etc., so it it gets a fair



view of actual pressure.







Here's at least a reasonably-arranged installation if not pretty--the



well feed would be from the rear, the outlet to the house on this side.







http://inspectapedia.com/water/Two_Harbors_2011_0420_DJFs.jpg







It needs to be pretty close proximity to the tank; if it's too far away



you're reading pressure wherever it is in the system which depending on



pipe sizing, etc., can be quite a bit different.







The bladder/diaphragm in the pressure tank is precisely size to the size



of the tank and the pressure differential between on and off and that 2



psi difference between it's dead pressure and the cut-in pressure. It



moves from fully up to fully extended where it is just at the top of the



outlet when reaching the cut-in pressure--too high and you don't get



much of the tank volume, too low and the bladder will actually extend to



the point it'll cut off the outlet by stretching too far.







You do need to get this right and if you don't have the skill set to get



it set up correctly, spend the bucks and get somebody out to do it



correctly--you'll save money in the long run by not screwing up



something more expensive to fix.







http://www.sprinklers4irrigation.com/en-us/pg_75.html







At least a minimum description.







Unlike Harry K, I'd say the 30-50 is by _far_ the most prevalent setting



I've ever encountered; we run 20-40 here on the farm and have been



content for 50+ years; run the house plus all the animal waterers (up to



1500 head worth) plus the lawn/garden (altho use the traveling



sprinklers rather than impulse sprinkler heads) and never have pressure



issues.







But, I wouldn't quibble with either altho I personally think 60 is too



high for household internal use for the aforementioned reasons.







--



Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60. Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?



Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!

Also, is there a standard size for the fitting of the PVC into the tank itself? It's a Flotec FP7120. I can't find anything in the owner's manual or on the mfg web page. Thanks.

On 08/03/2014 2:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
....

... The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is
visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60.
Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?

What does "tank is off" really mean? And where is this gauge?

How do you know the pressure switch is set to 40/60? Is it new from
factory marked that way or what?

Again, as the instructions I linked to say, the tank should be at 2 psi
_LESS_ than the cut in pressure when if is completely empty before
installation.

Again, I can't tell you from here, but if the system is open and the
gauge is at atmospheric and reading 52 pounds, then it's broke and needs
to be replaced, yes.

If it's on some other portion of the system that has 50 lb pressure,
then, as you say, you may be looking at the wrong thing.

We really, really, really, can't tell what your installation looks like
from here to do more than outline the basics. You've got to have
sufficient understanding of your system as you look at it to know what
it is that you've got.

--

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:47:56 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 08/03/2014 2:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

...



... The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is

visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60.

Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?



What does "tank is off" really mean? And where is this gauge?



How do you know the pressure switch is set to 40/60? Is it new from

factory marked that way or what?



Again, as the instructions I linked to say, the tank should be at 2 psi

_LESS_ than the cut in pressure when if is completely empty before

installation.



Again, I can't tell you from here, but if the system is open and the

gauge is at atmospheric and reading 52 pounds, then it's broke and needs

to be replaced, yes.



If it's on some other portion of the system that has 50 lb pressure,

then, as you say, you may be looking at the wrong thing.



We really, really, really, can't tell what your installation looks like

from here to do more than outline the basics. You've got to have

sufficient understanding of your system as you look at it to know what

it is that you've got.



--

In the picture you posted, it's the round gauge that's visible. It reads 52. And the tank is completely removed from the system now. Everything is turned off and there's no tank connected to the T. It's a 40 on, 60 off switch.

Thanks again!

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:35:10 PM UTC-5, Michael Wilson wrote:
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:18:02 PM UTC-5, Michael Wilson wrote:

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:05:25 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:



On 08/03/2014 1:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:







...















I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line







running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch







kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure







tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok?







Thanks.















Not if that pressure indicator is at all accurate, no.















If the system is empty/open, does the gauge then read zero or is it way







out of whack, maybe? Take it off and be sure it does zero out. Also be







sure the feed tubing to it is clean of rust, etc., so it it gets a fair







view of actual pressure.















Here's at least a reasonably-arranged installation if not pretty--the







well feed would be from the rear, the outlet to the house on this side.















http://inspectapedia.com/water/Two_Harbors_2011_0420_DJFs.jpg















It needs to be pretty close proximity to the tank; if it's too far away







you're reading pressure wherever it is in the system which depending on







pipe sizing, etc., can be quite a bit different.















The bladder/diaphragm in the pressure tank is precisely size to the size







of the tank and the pressure differential between on and off and that 2







psi difference between it's dead pressure and the cut-in pressure. It







moves from fully up to fully extended where it is just at the top of the







outlet when reaching the cut-in pressure--too high and you don't get







much of the tank volume, too low and the bladder will actually extend to







the point it'll cut off the outlet by stretching too far.















You do need to get this right and if you don't have the skill set to get







it set up correctly, spend the bucks and get somebody out to do it







correctly--you'll save money in the long run by not screwing up







something more expensive to fix.















http://www.sprinklers4irrigation.com/en-us/pg_75.html















At least a minimum description.















Unlike Harry K, I'd say the 30-50 is by _far_ the most prevalent setting







I've ever encountered; we run 20-40 here on the farm and have been







content for 50+ years; run the house plus all the animal waterers (up to







1500 head worth) plus the lawn/garden (altho use the traveling







sprinklers rather than impulse sprinkler heads) and never have pressure







issues.















But, I wouldn't quibble with either altho I personally think 60 is too







high for household internal use for the aforementioned reasons.















--







Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60. Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?







Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!



Also, is there a standard size for the fitting of the PVC into the tank itself? It's a Flotec FP7120. I can't find anything in the owner's manual or on the mfg web page. Thanks.

Here are the specs. It says the pipe tap size is 1 inch, but it seems to measure a little more than that on the measuring tape.

Specifications:

* Body Construction: Heavy Guage Steel
* Body Finish: Electrostatically Applied Baked On Polyester
* Tank Precharge: 40 psi Nitrogen Rich Charge
* Tank Capacity: 35 Gallons
* Equivalency Rating: 82 Gallons
* Drawdown with 20/40 Switch: 12.7 Gallons
* Drawdown with 30/50 Switch: 10.7 Gallons
* Drawdown with 40/60 Switch: 9.3 Gallons
* Bladder/Water Cell: One Piece Seamless PVC
* Tank Diameter: 20"
* Tank Height: 36-1/4"
* Flange: Glass-Filled Polypropylene
* Pipe Tap Size: 1" NPT
* Distance Floor To Tap Center: 2"
* Maximum Pressure Rating: 100 PSI

On 08/03/2014 2:56 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
....

...pipe tap size is 1 inch, but it seems to measure a little more than that...

Yes, nominal 1" pipe is 1" OD; it's based on a nominal ID for (iirc Sch
40) iron pipe is pretty close.

--

On 08/03/2014 2:50 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
....

In the picture you posted, it's the round gauge that's visible. It
reads 52. And the tank is completely removed from the system now.
Everything is turned off and there's no tank connected to the T. ...

Well, if there's no input, how could it possibly be reading 50 psig and
be anything _but_ broke?

It and possibly its connecting nipple if full of corrosion needs
replacing, yes.

The (empty) tank should then be pressurized to 38 psi for a 40-60 switch.

BTW, the specs posted show one advantage of the lower pressures in the
larger drawdown capacity.

--

On 8/3/2014 3:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60. Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?

Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!


Might still BE 52 PSI. Please open a faucet
and see if the gauge drops.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 8/3/2014 3:35 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!

Also, is there a standard size for the fitting of the PVC into the tank itself? It's a Flotec FP7120. I can't find anything in the owner's manual or on the mfg web page. Thanks.


Probably half or three quarter NPT.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Michael Wilson wrote in
:


I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line
running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch
kicks in at 52. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The
pressure tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will
I be ok?

Not if the switch is set to kick on at 52, no.

Tank pre-charge pressure should be 1 to 2 psi below the switch cut-in pressure. But as
others have already noted, 52 psi is a very unusually high cut-in pressure -- in fact, that's
much more characteristic of a cut-*out* pressure.

A fairly common arrangement is to set the switch to turn on at 40, off at 60, and set the tank
precharge pressure to 38 or 39.

Michael Wilson wrote in
:


Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge
that is visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40
and off at 60. Should I inflate the new tank to 40?

39 or 38

Should I
change out the gauge?

If the gauge is reading 52 when it's open to the atmosphere, it's OBVIOUSLY defective.

dpb wrote:

On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
The pressure tank switch kicks on at 52 psi. Should I inflate my new tank to 50 psi.

"ON" at 50???? That's far more typical of cutout pressure. Anything
much over that is surely likely to cause premature failures in toilet
valves, water hammer, etc., unless you've a PRV before the house
distribution.

But, the two-pounds below the cut-in is the rule of thumb but I
certainly have never seen a system operating at those pressures.

What's the head pressure of the pump?

--

City water pressure is commonly 70 psi without regulators and isn't an
issue for household fixtures. People moving to rural areas from cities
often don't like the normal lower operating pressures of a well system
and may increase the pressure range a bit. Ex-city folks may be much
happier with 50-70 than 40-60, I had to do this for a friend who oddly
enough had a low yield well and 1,500 gal cistern. We looked up the
specs on the pump from the cistern and the pressure tank, the pump was
rated up to 75 psi, and the tank was large enough that the 10 psi
increase didn't have a significant effect on the drawdown. There isn't
anything wrong with this as long as the pressure stays within the pump's
ratings and there is adequate tank capacity to allow normal cycle
intervals. A second pressure tank can be added if the existing one is
too small.

On 08/03/2014 5:48 PM, Pete C. wrote:
....

City water pressure is commonly 70 psi without regulators and isn't an
issue for household fixtures. ...

Mayhaps I've just been unlucky but in the 30 yrs we were on municipal
water systems in VA and TN I regularly had particularly toilet valves
fail until putting in PRVs. That encompasses 4 houses in Lynchburg, VA,
(3 rentals and one owned). We were at one of the rentals long enough it
kept failing valves until I finally put in the PRV on my own as being
less of a pita.

I really notice very little difference at 20-40 in just routine
operation but I'm pretty much an old-style, nothing new under the sun
kinda' guy w/ no fancy gadgets. As noted above, however, we run a _LOT_
of stuff off the system handling up to 1500 head of cattle which uses a
bunch of water on a 100F KS summer day...

--

dpb wrote:

On 08/03/2014 5:48 PM, Pete C. wrote:
...

City water pressure is commonly 70 psi without regulators and isn't an
issue for household fixtures. ...

Mayhaps I've just been unlucky but in the 30 yrs we were on municipal
water systems in VA and TN I regularly had particularly toilet valves
fail until putting in PRVs. That encompasses 4 houses in Lynchburg, VA,
(3 rentals and one owned). We were at one of the rentals long enough it
kept failing valves until I finally put in the PRV on my own as being
less of a pita.

I really notice very little difference at 20-40 in just routine
operation but I'm pretty much an old-style, nothing new under the sun
kinda' guy w/ no fancy gadgets. As noted above, however, we run a _LOT_
of stuff off the system handling up to 1500 head of cattle which uses a
bunch of water on a 100F KS summer day...

--

Showers are where the city folks get upset. Boosting the pressure works
better than drilling / removing flow restrictors. Also some water fed
appliances don't work quite right at lower pressures.

As for toilet valves and the like, I'd suspect it wasn't so much the
lack of a regulator, but rather the lack of an expansion tank that
caused your issues. Water meters typically have check valves, and if you
don't have an expansion tank the pressures in your system can spike a
lot higher than city pressure if you use a bunch of hot water and then
the heater refills with cold, heats it and it expands. A small expansion
tank can be had at 'Depot, Lowe's, etc. for $50 or so and can be
installed at any convenient point in the system.

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 3:24:37 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 08/03/2014 2:50 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

...



In the picture you posted, it's the round gauge that's visible. It

reads 52. And the tank is completely removed from the system now.

Everything is turned off and there's no tank connected to the T. ...



Well, if there's no input, how could it possibly be reading 50 psig and

be anything _but_ broke?



It and possibly its connecting nipple if full of corrosion needs

replacing, yes.



The (empty) tank should then be pressurized to 38 psi for a 40-60 switch.



BTW, the specs posted show one advantage of the lower pressures in the

larger drawdown capacity.



--

I think I just need to put in a new T and be done with it. But for now the tank is installed, pressured at 38psi, and apparently functioning well. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help from you and the other group folks.

Mike

On 8/3/2014 8:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:

I think I just need to put in a new T and be
done with it. But for now the tank is installed,
pressured at 38psi, and apparently functioning
well. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all
the help from you and the other group folks.

Mike


Nice to hear a good word, you're welcome.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 12:05:33 PM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 2:40:43 PM UTC-4, Harry K wrote:

On Sunday, August 3, 2014 11:18:44 AM UTC-7, Michael Wilson wrote:



On Sunday, August 3, 2014 1:06:28 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:







On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:















I'm out of my element here. I see a pressure gauge from the line running from the tank to the house. And when the pressure switch kicks in at 52.. I guess I'm looking at the wrong gauge. The pressure tank was delivered with 35psi. If I just leave it, will I be ok? Thanks.







No. The pressure _tank_ does not regulate the kick in/out pressure, the pressure switch does that.







Normal settings for residence:







20-40 but rather uncommon. Problem with sprinklers, weak showers.



30-50 but some impulse sprinklers don't work well at the low end.



40-60 is the most common - gives good pressure, needle showers, sprinklers work well.







Pressures over 60 are not recommended for residence as it is hard on fixtures as 'dpb' said.







Note the standard difference is 20lbs between on/off.







If you really have 52 for the cut-in, your cutout then should be 72 - way too high. You need to adjust the pressure switch.







Most have one high screw and one or two shorter ones. the high screw moves the 20lb range up/down to get the cut-in/out where you want it. If you don't have a 20lb difference between cutin/out then the shorter screw(s) are used to adjust that.







Harry K



I agree that 40 - 60 is typical. Not sure about the adjusting though.

I seem to recall that on mine at least one screw adjusted both cut-in and

cut-out, the other only adjusted one. But the pressure switches usually

have instructions on the inside of the cover. Or you can probably find

it online. I would think the tank manufacturers would have online stuff

about pressure settings too.

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new, preset one is cheap.

Harry K

On 08/03/2014 7:18 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
....

I think I just need to put in a new T and be done with it. But for
now the tank is installed, pressured at 38psi, and apparently
functioning well. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help
from you and the other group folks.

Be my recommendation -- the gauge doesn't make any difference to the
operation, obviously, but it is nice to have the visible evidence. It's
not at all unusual for them to fail with time so not at all unexpected
need another. The small diameter nipple tends to clog as well...

Glad to hear you're in business again...

--

dpb wrote:
On 08/03/2014 12:32 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
The pressure tank switch kicks on at 52 psi. Should I inflate my new
tank to 50 psi.

"ON" at 50???? That's far more typical of cutout pressure. Anything
much over that is surely likely to cause premature failures in toilet
valves, water hammer, etc., unless you've a PRV before the house
distribution.

I have lived with 70 psi since 1978, and have never had a problem. O.P. - I
answer yes, if that's where you want the pressure.

Harry K wrote:
And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.


Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why I was able
to retire early.

Michael Wilson wrote:
.................................................. .....................


Look at your posting. Have you ever considered clipping????

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 8/3/2014 3:35 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!

Also, is there a standard size for the fitting of the PVC into the
tank itself? It's a Flotec FP7120. I can't find anything in the
owner's manual or on the mfg web page. Thanks.

Probably half or three quarter NPT.

I seriously doubt that! 1/2" - not a chance.

Michael Wilson wrote:
\

Thanks for the help! The tank is off and the pressure gauge that is
visible still reads 52. The switch is set for on at 40 and off at 60.
Should I inflate the new tank to 40? Should I change out the gauge?

Much appreciated help on a Sunday afternoon!

Replace the guage. Or clean out the hole into it, then take it apart and bend
components to adjust it as needed.

On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.

Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why I was
able to retire early.


If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like screwing around in electrical equipment.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.

Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why I
was
able to retire early.


If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like screwing
around in electrical equipment.

Harry K

so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they wouldn't mind
changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a professional to me - a
professional who would be able to retire early.

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:13:32 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:
"Harry K" wrote in message

...

On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:

Harry K wrote:

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.

Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why I
was able to retire early.

If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...
It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like screwing
around in electrical equipment.

Harry K

so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they wouldn't mind
changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a professional to me - a
professional who would be able to retire early.

I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could have used extension cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to clean out the riser pipe.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:13:32 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:
"Harry K" wrote in message

...

On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:

Harry K wrote:

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.

Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's
why I was able to retire early.

If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...
It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like
screwing around in electrical equipment.

Harry K

so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they
wouldn't mind changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a
professional to me - a professional who would be able to retire
early.

I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time
I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could
have used extension cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with
the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to
clean out the riser pipe.


Thanks, but I'll chose to just turn a friggin' screw.

Harry K wrote:
On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,
preset one is cheap.

Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why
I was able to retire early.


If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like
screwing around in electrical equipment.


A pressure switch is hardly rocket science. It's only by messing with tasks like
this that you discover all the things you can do more cheaply and quicker than
driving out for a new part.

On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 1:30:36 AM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:13:32 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:

"Harry K" wrote in message



...



On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:



Harry K wrote:



And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,

preset one is cheap.



Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's

why I was able to retire early.



If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like

screwing around in electrical equipment.



Harry K



so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they

wouldn't mind changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a

professional to me - a professional who would be able to retire

early.



I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time

I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could

have used extension cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with

the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to

clean out the riser pipe.





Thanks, but I'll chose to just turn a friggin' screw.

Wiring a pressure switch in using a cord and plug would also seem
to be a violation of NEC. I wonder how ofter he changes his switches?

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 1:30:36 AM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:13:32 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:

"Harry K" wrote in message



...



On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:



Harry K wrote:



And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,

preset one is cheap.



Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's

why I was able to retire early.



If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like

screwing around in electrical equipment.



Harry K



so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they

wouldn't mind changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a

professional to me - a professional who would be able to retire

early.



I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time

I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could

have used extension cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with

the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to

clean out the riser pipe.





Thanks, but I'll chose to just turn a friggin' screw.

Wiring a pressure switch in using a cord and plug would also seem
to be a violation of NEC. I wonder how ofter he changes his switches?

it also seems to be more work than just doing it right.

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 10:30:36 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 9:13:32 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:

"Harry K" wrote in message



...



On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:



Harry K wrote:



And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,

preset one is cheap.



Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's

why I was able to retire early.



If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...

It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like

screwing around in electrical equipment.



Harry K



so, one would not want to turn an adjustment screw, but they

wouldn't mind changing the entire pressure switch? sounds like a

professional to me - a professional who would be able to retire

early.



I thought of that afterward. The answer is to do as I did last time

I had to change mine. I wired it in with a length of romex (could

have used extension cord) on a plug so I didn't have to screw with

the hardwire problem. I have to occasionally pull the switch to

clean out the riser pipe.





Thanks, but I'll chose to just turn a friggin' screw.

You do realize that I was talking about the need to change or temprorarily REMOVE the switch?

Harry K

On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 11:39:41 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:
Harry K wrote:

On Monday, August 4, 2014 10:53:18 PM UTC-7, Bob F wrote:

Harry K wrote:



And if one is leery of screwing with the pressure switch a new,

preset one is cheap.



Wow! I'm glad I've never had an attitude like that. Maybe that's why

I was able to retire early.





If under $20 would have prevented you from retiring...



It was a SUGGESTION you dope. There are people who don't like

screwing around in electrical equipment.





A pressure switch is hardly rocket science. It's only by messing with tasks like

this that you discover all the things you can do more cheaply and quicker than

driving out for a new part.

True but I have done such tasks for a friend who won't even remove the cover on a breaker box much less run a new wire.

I think I said it before. Some people don't like screwing with electrical things. I am happy that your are so proud of your abilities.


Harry K

On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 8:25:14 AM UTC-7, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 1:30:36 AM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:

Harry K wrote:

snip

Wiring a pressure switch in using a cord and plug would also seem
to be a violation of NEC. I wonder how ofter he changes his switches?

I wonder the same but a licensed electrician didn't make any comment about it when he was bidding on a new water heater.

How often do I replace switches? twice since 1976. How often have I had to remove it to clean the riser pipe? 5 times - well still producing a real fine silt.

Harry K

On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 8:27:38 AM UTC-7, Pico Rico wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message

...

Wiring a pressure switch in using a cord and plug would also seem
to be a violation of NEC. I wonder how ofter he changes his switches?

it also seems to be more work than just doing it right.

Really? Uplug, unscrew the switch do whatever and then reverse the procedure.

Pull cover, remove three leads from terminals. Now work the whire that is in conduit through that 90" el. on side of the switch...

I'll call you next time it needs doing and you can demonstrate.

Harry K