On 12/26/2013 2:47 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 24 Dec 2013 18:30:08 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

One
half of the threshold is loose, and needs maybe
four or so anchors.

I read the replies. So this is a repair, right?

Remove the screws and have a peek under the TH. Chances there could
be some old silicone caulk and plastic anchors in the holes already
drill in the concrete. Clean all the off well.

Put new anchors in, run a couple of beads of silicone caulk (draft and
water intrusions prevention under the TH).

Buy screws which are the same as present used on the TH being
repaired.

My take is this is not a new install....

True, not new. It's about 30 miles from me, and I
hate to go searching for screws and anchors. I've
got some Tapcon like screws, and a masonary bit.

Looked at counter sinks at HF, but their one isn't
wide enough for the 1/2 inch diameter heads. Think I
have, and can find a 1/2 HS bit, which will be the
wrong angle. Sigh.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to anchor aluminum threshold
for commercial doors. About six inches wide, and
runs the width of two 36 inch steel doors. One
half of the threshold is loose, and needs maybe
four or so anchors.

Some how, I remember some blue anchors that look
a bit like drywall screws, but have really aggressive
threads. Anyone know what I need for the job?

Where to find these? Lowe's? Need flat head, so as
not to be a trip hazard. Can't have hex heads.

I haven't read all of the other replies yet, so maybe someone already
mentioned this....

But, have you considered just gluing the threshold down using this?:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_...-Cartridge.htm .

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/26/2013 2:47 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 24 Dec 2013 18:30:08 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

One
half of the threshold is loose, and needs maybe
four or so anchors.

I read the replies. So this is a repair, right?

Remove the screws and have a peek under the TH. Chances there could
be some old silicone caulk and plastic anchors in the holes already
drill in the concrete. Clean all the off well.

Put new anchors in, run a couple of beads of silicone caulk (draft and
water intrusions prevention under the TH).

Buy screws which are the same as present used on the TH being
repaired.

My take is this is not a new install....

True, not new. It's about 30 miles from me, and I
hate to go searching for screws and anchors. I've
got some Tapcon like screws, and a masonary bit.

Looked at counter sinks at HF, but their one isn't
wide enough for the 1/2 inch diameter heads. Think I
have, and can find a 1/2 HS bit, which will be the
wrong angle. Sigh.


I'm confused. In one post you said you bought Tapcons, but in this thread
you said you bought "Tapcon like" screws.

So which did you buy?

The reason I ask is that there are some folks who don't like Tapcons, but
like some other brands.

http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/b...tapcons?page=1

BTW...even though I posted a link to a video about how to install Tapcons,
and even though I mentioned the countersinking, etc. I hope you didn't get
the impression that I thought Tapcons were the correct fastener for this
job.

I would take some adhesive along too as others have suggested. If you don't
use it, return it. I'd really like to know how the threshold was originally
attached.

On Thu, 26 Dec 2013 18:32:32 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/26/2013 2:47 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 24 Dec 2013 18:30:08 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

One
half of the threshold is loose, and needs maybe
four or so anchors.

I read the replies. So this is a repair, right?

Remove the screws and have a peek under the TH. Chances there could
be some old silicone caulk and plastic anchors in the holes already
drill in the concrete. Clean all the off well.

Put new anchors in, run a couple of beads of silicone caulk (draft and
water intrusions prevention under the TH).

Buy screws which are the same as present used on the TH being
repaired.

My take is this is not a new install....

True, not new. It's about 30 miles from me, and I
hate to go searching for screws and anchors. I've
got some Tapcon like screws, and a masonary bit.

Gosh "30 miles" away is a long way to have a photo mailed to you. That
must be awful.

Looked at counter sinks at HF, but their one isn't
wide enough for the 1/2 inch diameter heads. Think I
have, and can find a 1/2 HS bit, which will be the
wrong angle. Sigh.

groan

On 12/26/2013 6:42 PM, TomR wrote:

I haven't read all of the other replies yet, so maybe someone already
mentioned this....

But, have you considered just gluing the threshold down using this?:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_...-Cartridge.htm .

New one, thanks. It's cold and snowing, here. I
don't know what the temp range. New technology.
Tapcons, well, they are something the store can
see and understand.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/26/2013 6:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Looked at counter sinks at HF, but their one isn't
wide enough for the 1/2 inch diameter heads. Think I
have, and can find a 1/2 HS bit, which will be the
wrong angle. Sigh.


I'm confused. In one post you said you bought Tapcons, but in this thread
you said you bought "Tapcon like" screws.

So which did you buy?
SM: I don't remember. I got them at a hardware store, and noted that
they look a lot like Tapcon, but different brand. they are on the seat
of the truck, and it's cold out. I'll check some ohter time.


The reason I ask is that there are some folks who don't like Tapcons, but
like some other brands.

http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/b...tapcons?page=1

BTW...even though I posted a link to a video about how to install Tapcons,
and even though I mentioned the countersinking, etc. I hope you didn't get
the impression that I thought Tapcons were the correct fastener for this
job.

SM: Oh, that's what I thought!


I would take some adhesive along too as others have suggested. If you don't
use it, return it. I'd really like to know how the threshold was originally
attached.

SM: I might find out, or might not. The half
that's held down, I'm not going to pull it
up and look. so, maybe no one will ever know,
including me.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/26/2013 7:37 PM, Oren wrote:
Buy screws which are the same as present used on the TH being
repaired.

My take is this is not a new install....

True, not new. It's about 30 miles from me, and I
hate to go searching for screws and anchors. I've
got some Tapcon like screws, and a masonary bit.

Gosh "30 miles" away is a long way to have a photo mailed to you. That
must be awful.

Looked at counter sinks at HF, but their one isn't
wide enough for the 1/2 inch diameter heads. Think I
have, and can find a 1/2 HS bit, which will be the
wrong angle. Sigh.

groan

I doubt the people at the store will have the
ability to pull up the threshold, and figure
out what anchors are there. Even if they
wanted to.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thu, 26 Dec 2013 16:22:19 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

...snip...
Cut to length, for the hole? Now you've got a great idea.

I did buy some Tapcons, and two masonary bits. Looked at beeswax, but
it's $5.49, so I'll try candle wax instead.

A friend loaned me an impact driver, so I can rattle the tapcons in.
Job set up for sometime Friday, see how it goes.


My father used to use a little plastic tube-like cylinder maybe 1/4 inch
diameter about 2 inches long that inserts into the existing hole. Then the
screw would easily go down the plastic piece, expanding it to grip the
sides. He never used anything but smooth round holes in the concrete,
except for nail gun stuff.

maybe some plastic tubing would work and be more available to you.

On 12/25/2013 3:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/25/2013 11:14 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I installed a lot of thresholds when I worked on automatic and
commercial door systems. I used the blue plastic anchors because
sooner or later some Goomba would come along and damage the
threshold which required replacement. The plastic anchors could be
dug out easily which is not the case with those that are glued in.
If the screw in the plastic anchor was stuck, a flat bar can be
hammered under the threshold to pry it up. Think forward. ^_^

TDD

The foam stuff sounded like a thing to try, if this doesn't do.
Plenty more cement under the six inch by double 36 threshhold, if I
have to put in more anchors. If these snap off, or some thing.

Hoping not many goombas, here.

I'm write from experience and know very well what works. I installed
automatic doors in hospitals, grocery stores and any place which used
automatic doors. I had to service and repair not only the automatic
doors but manual hollow aluminum and steel doors in commercial settings.
I did it as an employee of an automatic door company and later as an
independent contractor for a door company and directly for a grocery
store chain. I actually traveled across Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi
and Louisiana on service and installation jobs. I repaired and replaced
a great many thresholds which often required using a thin layer of quick
setting concrete and an angle grinder to level out the surface where the
threshold was to be installed. Stainless steel screws worked the best
with the plastic anchors which made service and repair a lot easier but
some idiot would always use regular screws which always corroded and
stuck requiring me to use the flat pry bar and hammer to remove the old
threshold. ^_^

TDD

On 12/26/2013 3:26 PM, wrote:
I find blowing through a fairly long straw the best way to clean dust
out of a drilled hole in concrete. Just be prepared to protect your
eyes as the dust really circulates everywhere if you blow vigorously
enough to really clear the dust out of the hole.

Heck, I've used a can of dust blaster with a rag over the hole to keep
dust from going everywhere. Common sense always wins out. ^_^

TDD

On 12/26/2013 4:26 PM, wrote:
I find blowing through a fairly long straw the best way to clean dust out of a drilled hole in concrete. Just be prepared to protect your eyes as the dust really circulates everywhere if you blow vigorously enough to really clear the dust out of the hole.


My plan was to run the drill in, leave it in, and
blow while the drill is keeping the hole plugged.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/27/2013 5:58 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I'm write from experience and know very well what works. I installed
automatic doors in hospitals, grocery stores and any place which used
automatic doors. I had to service and repair not only the automatic
doors but manual hollow aluminum and steel doors in commercial settings.
I did it as an employee of an automatic door company and later as an
independent contractor for a door company and directly for a grocery
store chain. I actually traveled across Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi
and Louisiana on service and installation jobs. I repaired and replaced
a great many thresholds which often required using a thin layer of quick
setting concrete and an angle grinder to level out the surface where the
threshold was to be installed. Stainless steel screws worked the best
with the plastic anchors which made service and repair a lot easier but
some idiot would always use regular screws which always corroded and
stuck requiring me to use the flat pry bar and hammer to remove the old
threshold. ^_^

TDD

Yep, them goombas are every where. Sounds like great
wisdom. I'm glad you cheated the grim reaper (for
now) and still around to share your wisdom. How does
Saint Peter secure the threshold for the Pearly Gates?
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/26/2013 7:46 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/26/2013 6:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I'm confused. In one post you said you bought Tapcons, but in this thread
you said you bought "Tapcon like" screws.

So which did you buy?
SM: I don't remember. I got them at a hardware store, and noted that
they look a lot like Tapcon, but different brand. they are on the seat
of the truck, and it's cold out. I'll check some ohter time.


The brand is Hillman.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/26/2013 6:42 PM, TomR wrote:

I haven't read all of the other replies yet, so maybe someone already
mentioned this....

But, have you considered just gluing the threshold down using this?:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_...-Cartridge.htm

New one, thanks. It's cold and snowing, here. I
don't know what the temp range. New technology.
Tapcons, well, they are something the store can
see and understand.

I don't know about the cold temperature part, but I have used Loctite
PowerGrab to glue down thresholds to concrete and it worked well.

I have also used Tapcons a couple of times to try to attach things to
concrete, not including thresholds, but including securing interior 2x4
walls to a concrete floor with pre-drilled holes in the concrete. One thing
that I found was that if I got a little too hasty using a screw gun to put
them in, they "over-drilled"(?) and the Tapcons just destroyed the concrete
like a drill and they wouldn't hold. So, I partially screwed them in with a
screw gun and then hand-tightened the final part. And, even with Tapcons,
maybe a little glue in the pre-drilled holes (such as the Loctite stuff)
would help secure the Tapcons in place.

On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:13:16 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

I don't know about the cold temperature part, but I have used Loctite
PowerGrab to glue down thresholds to concrete and it worked well.

I wonder if the next guy to repair the threshold got mad?

Once I removed a door trim piece, intending to use it again. Yep, some
clown put ~20 2" brad pins in the material...think of the next guy

Glued wood flooring on concrete - fa git bout it

On 12/27/2013 6:49 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/27/2013 5:58 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I'm write from experience and know very well what works. I installed
automatic doors in hospitals, grocery stores and any place which used
automatic doors. I had to service and repair not only the automatic
doors but manual hollow aluminum and steel doors in commercial settings.
I did it as an employee of an automatic door company and later as an
independent contractor for a door company and directly for a grocery
store chain. I actually traveled across Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi
and Louisiana on service and installation jobs. I repaired and replaced
a great many thresholds which often required using a thin layer of quick
setting concrete and an angle grinder to level out the surface where the
threshold was to be installed. Stainless steel screws worked the best
with the plastic anchors which made service and repair a lot easier but
some idiot would always use regular screws which always corroded and
stuck requiring me to use the flat pry bar and hammer to remove the old
threshold. ^_^

TDD

Yep, them goombas are every where. Sounds like great
wisdom. I'm glad you cheated the grim reaper (for
now) and still around to share your wisdom. How does
Saint Peter secure the threshold for the Pearly Gates?

I don't know because when I died in the ambulance, I seem to recall a
lot of heat and very deep wicked sounding laughter. o_O

TDD

On 12/27/2013 3:32 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:13:16 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

I don't know about the cold temperature part, but I have used Loctite
PowerGrab to glue down thresholds to concrete and it worked well.

I wonder if the next guy to repair the threshold got mad?

Once I removed a door trim piece, intending to use it again. Yep, some
clown put ~20 2" brad pins in the material...think of the next guy

Glued wood flooring on concrete - fa git bout it


With any luck, it will be "ME" who has to replace
threshold in a year or two. No panel adhesive under
it, for me.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/27/2013 4:01 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
wisdom. I'm glad you cheated the grim reaper (for
now) and still around to share your wisdom. How does
Saint Peter secure the threshold for the Pearly Gates?

I don't know because when I died in the ambulance, I seem to recall a
lot of heat and very deep wicked sounding laughter. o_O

TDD

I guess you're the first honest AC guy to make it
to the Pearly Gates?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/28/2013 8:02 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/27/2013 4:01 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
wisdom. I'm glad you cheated the grim reaper (for
now) and still around to share your wisdom. How does
Saint Peter secure the threshold for the Pearly Gates?

I don't know because when I died in the ambulance, I seem to recall a
lot of heat and very deep wicked sounding laughter. o_O

TDD

I guess you're the first honest AC guy to make it
to the Pearly Gates?


I don't know about that. Perhaps that Purgatory thingy the psychotic
Nuns kept threatening me with when I was a small boy and in their
opinion, I was the spawn of Satan. ^_^

TDD

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:01:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/27/2013 3:32 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:13:16 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

I don't know about the cold temperature part, but I have used Loctite
PowerGrab to glue down thresholds to concrete and it worked well.

I wonder if the next guy to repair the threshold got mad?

Once I removed a door trim piece, intending to use it again. Yep, some
clown put ~20 2" brad pins in the material...think of the next guy

Glued wood flooring on concrete - fa git bout it


With any luck, it will be "ME" who has to replace
threshold in a year or two. No panel adhesive under
it, for me.

If you do the job right, it should not need a repair "in a year or
two". Crikey Man! What kind of outfit do you run?

On 12/28/2013 1:52 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:01:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/27/2013 3:32 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:13:16 -0500, "TomR"
wrote:

I don't know about the cold temperature part, but I have used
Loctite PowerGrab to glue down thresholds to concrete and it
worked well.

I wonder if the next guy to repair the threshold got mad?

Once I removed a door trim piece, intending to use it again. Yep,
some clown put ~20 2" brad pins in the material...think of the
next guy

Glued wood flooring on concrete - fa git bout it


With any luck, it will be "ME" who has to replace threshold in a
year or two. No panel adhesive under it, for me.

If you do the job right, it should not need a repair "in a year or
two". Crikey Man! What kind of outfit do you run?

I don't think it's a matter of incompetence on Stormin's part but the
back door at any business is where heavy items are either dragged in or
rolled over the aluminum threshold. When I worked on a lot of commercial
doors, I had a fellow who owned a sheet metal shop cut some 3/16" thick
stainless steel plate for thresholds. My experience over the years
taught me to soldier proof equipment and facilities for any commercial
customers. ^_^

TDD

On 12/28/2013 9:10 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/28/2013 1:52 PM, Oren wrote:
If you do the job right, it should not need a repair "in a year or
two". Crikey Man! What kind of outfit do you run?

I don't think it's a matter of incompetence on Stormin's part but the
back door at any business is where heavy items are either dragged in or
rolled over the aluminum threshold. When I worked on a lot of commercial
doors, I had a fellow who owned a sheet metal shop cut some 3/16" thick
stainless steel plate for thresholds. My experience over the years
taught me to soldier proof equipment and facilities for any commercial
customers. ^_^

TDD

I'm a bit new to this. It's a high traffic door,
and this is my first chance to anchor. Looks like
Monday, so I have a couple more days to worry about
every thing.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:45:29 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/28/2013 9:10 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/28/2013 1:52 PM, Oren wrote:
If you do the job right, it should not need a repair "in a year or
two". Crikey Man! What kind of outfit do you run?

I don't think it's a matter of incompetence on Stormin's part but the
back door at any business is where heavy items are either dragged in or
rolled over the aluminum threshold. When I worked on a lot of commercial
doors, I had a fellow who owned a sheet metal shop cut some 3/16" thick
stainless steel plate for thresholds. My experience over the years
taught me to soldier proof equipment and facilities for any commercial
customers. ^_^

TDD

I'm a bit new to this. It's a high traffic door,
and this is my first chance to anchor. Looks like
Monday, so I have a couple more days to worry about
every thing.

I should have used a smiley face. I was pokin' at you Chris. Difficult
to help, when even you have not seen the job.

Dufas: Yes they get beat up badly in some cases. I've seen gouges in
aluminum thresholds - did not change the function

* Lift threshold up, put wood behind it.
Pre drill clear holes through the threshold.
Counter sink the holes, with larger bit.

* Hammer drill is essential to make holes
in cement. The chuck on the hammer drill
tends to loosen up. Have to retighten often.
Hearing protection is super essential.

* While the bit is in the hole, blow away the
dust.

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.

* Impact driver screw driver is a good thing.

* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.

* Lubricate screw threads with Chap-Stick generic
type of lip balm. Cheaper than bees wax.

* Sure is nice to have the hammer drill be one
tool. Impact driver the other tool. Not having
to change bits back and forth all the time. Put
one down, pick up the other.

* 26F and blowing snow is cold. Sure is nice once
in a while when the heat from the building blows
out instead of in.

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 15:37:54 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

* Lift threshold up, put wood behind it.
Pre drill clear holes through the threshold.
Counter sink the holes, with larger bit.

* Hammer drill is essential to make holes
in cement. The chuck on the hammer drill
tends to loosen up. Have to retighten often.
Hearing protection is super essential.

* While the bit is in the hole, blow away the
dust.

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.

* Impact driver screw driver is a good thing.

* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.

* Lubricate screw threads with Chap-Stick generic
type of lip balm. Cheaper than bees wax.

* Sure is nice to have the hammer drill be one
tool. Impact driver the other tool. Not having
to change bits back and forth all the time. Put
one down, pick up the other.

* 26F and blowing snow is cold. Sure is nice once
in a while when the heat from the building blows
out instead of in.

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

After all that, did you collect a check?

On 12/28/2013 9:10 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/28/2013 1:52 PM, Oren wrote:

If you do the job right, it should not need a repair "in a year or
two". Crikey Man! What kind of outfit do you run?

I don't think it's a matter of incompetence on Stormin's part but the
back door at any business is where heavy items are either dragged in or
rolled over the aluminum threshold. When I worked on a lot of commercial
doors, I had a fellow who owned a sheet metal shop cut some 3/16" thick
stainless steel plate for thresholds. My experience over the years
taught me to soldier proof equipment and facilities for any commercial
customers. ^_^

TDD

I see replacing thresholds as continuing income.
I've not done one, but maybe in a couple years.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/31/2013 3:56 PM, Oren wrote:

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

After all that, did you collect a check?


I'll fax the invoice later today, and then
I get to sit with my finger in my ear for
typically 60 days to get paid.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
* Lift threshold up, put wood behind it.
Pre drill clear holes through the threshold.
Counter sink the holes, with larger bit.

* Hammer drill is essential to make holes
in cement. The chuck on the hammer drill
tends to loosen up. Have to retighten often.
Hearing protection is super essential.

I guess that depends on the drill. My hammer drill doesn't loosen up.
Assuming a keyed chuck, I learned long ago to use the chuck key in all
three holes when tightening the chuck.


* While the bit is in the hole, blow away the
dust.

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.


Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?


* Impact driver screw driver is a good thing.

* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.


If you used a hanger with a tape flag, why would you start driving the
screw without knowing if the hole was deep enough?

The Tapcons come with "depth instructions". Did yours not? I guess I'm not
seeing a reason to start driving the screw before knowing whether or not
the hole was deep enough. Anything deeper than the screw length by at least
1/2" should suffice.

Per the Tapcon instructions, removing a concrete screw and reusing the same
hole decreases the holding strength. There's a good chance that only the
portion of the screw in the "new" section of the hole is holding at full
strength.


* Lubricate screw threads with Chap-Stick generic
type of lip balm. Cheaper than bees wax.

* Sure is nice to have the hammer drill be one
tool. Impact driver the other tool. Not having
to change bits back and forth all the time. Put
one down, pick up the other.

* 26F and blowing snow is cold. Sure is nice once
in a while when the heat from the building blows
out instead of in.

A warm hat, some carhartts and pair of these work wonders. ;-)

http://image.ultimatelist.com/media/...777/295438.jpg

I got mine for $2 as an open package item at Home Depot.


* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

For folks of certain persuasions, strap ons are indeed essential.

On 12/31/2013 6:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
* Hammer drill is essential to make holes
in cement. The chuck on the hammer drill
tends to loosen up. Have to retighten often.
Hearing protection is super essential.

I guess that depends on the drill. My hammer drill doesn't loosen up.
Assuming a keyed chuck, I learned long ago to use the chuck key in all
three holes when tightening the chuck.

SM: Thanks, I'll try that. Good idea. Yes, and it's a
keyed chuck.


* While the bit is in the hole, blow away the
dust.

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.


Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?

SM: Too obvious. I could also note by how much
flute is showing, on the side of the bit.


* Impact driver screw driver is a good thing.

* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.


If you used a hanger with a tape flag, why would you start driving the
screw without knowing if the hole was deep enough?

SM: If the screw stops, it's because I don't have
a hanger with tape flag on this job. I'm planning
one for NEXT job.


The Tapcons come with "depth instructions". Did yours not? I guess I'm not
seeing a reason to start driving the screw before knowing whether or not
the hole was deep enough. Anything deeper than the screw length by at least
1/2" should suffice.

SM: Mine were Hillman, and yes they came with depth instructions.


Per the Tapcon instructions, removing a concrete screw and reusing the same
hole decreases the holding strength. There's a good chance that only the
portion of the screw in the "new" section of the hole is holding at full
strength.

SM: Eek, the job is a reject!




* 26F and blowing snow is cold. Sure is nice once
in a while when the heat from the building blows
out instead of in.

A warm hat, some carhartts and pair of these work wonders. ;-)

http://image.ultimatelist.com/media/...777/295438.jpg

I got mine for $2 as an open package item at Home Depot.

SM: My Harbor Freight knee pads again were a help.



* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

For folks of certain persuasions, strap ons are indeed essential.

SM: Lets not dick around, here, fellah.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/31/2013 6:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?

SM: Too obvious. I could also note by how much
flute is showing, on the side of the bit.

The good thing about the tape on the drill bit is that when you are reaching
the tape depth the tape clears away the dust that is piling up around the
drill bit. So, you don't really even need to watch the tape -- just the
dust that is piling up -- and when the tape brushes it away you're at the
right depth.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/31/2013 6:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.


Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?

SM: Too obvious. I could also note by how much
flute is showing, on the side of the bit.

Sure, if you have a calibrated eye or the bit is marked. Oh, wait, marking
the bit...that's what the tape is for.


* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.


If you used a hanger with a tape flag, why would you start driving the
screw without knowing if the hole was deep enough?

SM: If the screw stops, it's because I don't have
a hanger with tape flag on this job. I'm planning
one for NEXT job.

....or tape on the bit.



The Tapcons come with "depth instructions". Did yours not? I guess I'm not
seeing a reason to start driving the screw before knowing whether or not
the hole was deep enough. Anything deeper than the screw length by at least
1/2" should suffice.

SM: Mine were Hillman, and yes they came with depth instructions.


Probably should have followed them. ;-)

On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:33:21 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/31/2013 3:56 PM, Oren wrote:

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

After all that, did you collect a check?


I'll fax the invoice later today, and then
I get to sit with my finger in my ear for
typically 60 days to get paid.



Whatever happened to a 5% discount to pay in 10 days, net in 30, and
penalty of +$150 for late payments, as a 'bookeeping' charge, very
defenseable in a court of law. and of course each month, since you have to
carry the charge 'on your books'

On Thu, 02 Jan 2014 10:38:14 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:33:21 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/31/2013 3:56 PM, Oren wrote:

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

After all that, did you collect a check?


I'll fax the invoice later today, and then
I get to sit with my finger in my ear for
typically 60 days to get paid.



Whatever happened to a 5% discount to pay in 10 days, net in 30, and
penalty of +$150 for late payments, as a 'bookeeping' charge, very
defenseable in a court of law. and of course each month, since you have to
carry the charge 'on your books'

It's certainly defensible, if it's specified in the contract,
otherwise, I doubt it. The buyer of your services can always find
someone else, too.

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


Stormin Mormon wrote:
* Lift threshold up, put wood behind it.
Pre drill clear holes through the threshold.
Counter sink the holes, with larger bit.

* Hammer drill is essential to make holes
in cement. The chuck on the hammer drill
tends to loosen up. Have to retighten often.
Hearing protection is super essential.

I guess that depends on the drill. My hammer drill doesn't loosen up.
Assuming a keyed chuck, I learned long ago to use the chuck key in all
three holes when tightening the chuck.


* While the bit is in the hole, blow away the
dust.

* Need a coat hanger wire with tape flag, to
make sure the holes are deep enough.


Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?


* Impact driver screw driver is a good thing.

* If the screw stops going in, the hole isn't
yet deep enough. Stop immediately, remove screw,
and hammer drill deeper.


If you used a hanger with a tape flag, why would you start driving the
screw without knowing if the hole was deep enough?

The Tapcons come with "depth instructions". Did yours not? I guess I'm not
seeing a reason to start driving the screw before knowing whether or not
the hole was deep enough. Anything deeper than the screw length by at least
1/2" should suffice.

Per the Tapcon instructions, removing a concrete screw and reusing the same
hole decreases the holding strength. There's a good chance that only the
portion of the screw in the "new" section of the hole is holding at full
strength.


* Lubricate screw threads with Chap-Stick generic
type of lip balm. Cheaper than bees wax.

* Sure is nice to have the hammer drill be one
tool. Impact driver the other tool. Not having
to change bits back and forth all the time. Put
one down, pick up the other.

* 26F and blowing snow is cold. Sure is nice once
in a while when the heat from the building blows
out instead of in.

A warm hat, some carhartts and pair of these work wonders. ;-)

http://image.ultimatelist.com/media/...777/295438.jpg

I got mine for $2 as an open package item at Home Depot.


* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

For folks of certain persuasions, strap ons are indeed essential.

You are getting into my area.^^^^^

A serious question; do you think that Stumped will
learn anything from this post? Good ideas for the
regular newbie but Stumped just doesn't pay
attention.

--
Tekkie

RobertMacy posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:33:21 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/31/2013 3:56 PM, Oren wrote:

* Strap on, padded knee pads are totally essential.

After all that, did you collect a check?


I'll fax the invoice later today, and then
I get to sit with my finger in my ear for
typically 60 days to get paid.



Whatever happened to a 5% discount to pay in 10 days, net in 30, and
penalty of +$150 for late payments, as a 'bookeeping' charge, very
defenseable in a court of law. and of course each month, since you have to
carry the charge 'on your books'

1. He has to prove he did anything useful.
2. He has to prove he didn't break anything else
for his "fix"
3. He has to actually find a used part that works.
4. He has to recalculate the bill because of the
above and add the "screwover" factor while the
client has to calculate the 'screwup" factor
(100%)

--
Tekkie

On 1/1/2014 11:54 AM, TomR wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/31/2013 6:55 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?

SM: Too obvious. I could also note by how much flute is showing, on
the side of the bit.

The good thing about the tape on the drill bit is that when you are
reaching the tape depth the tape clears away the dust that is piling
up around the drill bit. So, you don't really even need to watch the
tape -- just the dust that is piling up -- and when the tape brushes
it away you're at the right depth.

I had a set of collars the slipped on both metal and masonry bits and
were held in place with a set screw. Another thing that works for depth
control is a stack of fender washers on the bit. It gives you a positive
stop when using a hammer drill on a concrete wall to keep you from
drilling through to the other side. ^_^

TDD

On 1/22/2014 9:16 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
Why not just put the tape flag on the bit?

SM: Too obvious. I could also note by how much flute is showing, on
the side of the bit.

I had a set of collars the slipped on both metal and masonry bits and
were held in place with a set screw. Another thing that works for depth
control is a stack of fender washers on the bit. It gives you a positive
stop when using a hammer drill on a concrete wall to keep you from
drilling through to the other side. ^_^

TDD

Yes, either of those can work. In my case, I oughta
just kept an eye on the flutes, and see how far the
bit was in. Sigh. I'm learning.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

The Daring Dufas posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

I had a set of collars the slipped on both metal and masonry bits and
were held in place with a set screw. Another thing that works for depth
control is a stack of fender washers on the bit. It gives you a positive
stop when using a hammer drill on a concrete wall to keep you from
drilling through to the other side. ^_^


Hmm, a good idea I can steal, if I ever do any
work again... Of course in my world I would need
eight washers and only have five. Then drop one
into some place where it would never be found.

--
Tekkie

A threshold is a strip across the bottom of a door opening that seals it when the door is closed, so cold (or hot) air does not seep in under the door.. A threshold can be wood, metal or vinyl, but a popular option is aluminum, which is resistant to rot or water damage, cleans easily and requires no regular maintenance. Many aluminum thresholds have rubber strips that flex when the door is closed to provide a tighter seal. Replacing a threshold with a new aluminum one is fairly simple.Measure the bottom of the doorway with a tape measure and buy an aluminum threshold to fit; most entry doors are about 36 inches wide. Match height of the new threshold to the old; make sure the new threshold is no higher off the floor to avoid door closing problems. Use a rubber-centered threshold if the old one had such a piece. For more information http://www.buyliquidroof.com/liquid-coatings.html

Alan Smith posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


A threshold is a strip across the bottom of a door opening that seals it when the door is closed, so cold (or hot) air does not seep in under the door. A threshold can be wood, metal or vinyl, but a popular option is aluminum, which is resistant to rot or water damage, cleans easily and requires no regular maintenance. Many aluminum thresholds have rubber strips that flex when the door is closed to provide a tighter seal. Replacing a threshold with
a new aluminum one is fairly simple.Measure the bottom of the doorway with a tape measure and buy an aluminum threshold to fit; most entry doors are about 36 inches wide. Match height of the new threshold to the old; make sure the new threshold is no higher off the floor to avoid door closing problems. Use a rubber-centered threshold if the old one had such a piece. For more information http://www.buyliquidroof.com/liquid-coatings.html

Who asked you? We already know what we are talking
about.

--
Tekkie