Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....
--
EA

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron
wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode
disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never
heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to
Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this
fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

That makes sense. Which proly means a new anode is going to break the
effing bank.


Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

Good to know. The less contact I have with HD the better.
Sears is no picnic either, but it is a Kenmore heater, so I've got a better
shot....


I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?

I'm anal about pressure drop. There was 1" brass that was plumbed down to
3/4 copper, which I replaced, and used 1" brass, until I reduced it down to
3/4 brass. Dopey me.... if you see how the anode is placed, I coulda come
in with 1/2", with no worry about pressure....

And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Altho the DRI lists an "upper limit" for Mg, that simply reflects the dosage
at which some people get a laxative effect.
There is consderable opinion that the RDA for Mg is way too low (about 350
mg iirc), with some advocating 1,000+ mg -- in divided doses, cuz 1,000 mg
in one shot will send you to the throne.
One of the better laxative methods, btw.

The point being, if yer hot tea/coffee is not sending you to the throne, yer
not getting too much magnesium.
I supplement with 250-500 mg religiously, occasionally 750, 1,000 -- heh,
but only on weekends.... LOL

Mg is quite the miracle element -- extraordinary, in fact, used in ERs (as
IV) for acute asthma attacks and can be anti-asthmatic even in pill form,
will immediately lower blood pressure, and being a 2+ ion, apparently
competes with Ca2+ for oxalates (kidney stones), thereby virtually
eliminating the risk of kidney stones. I went from *chronic* kidney stones
to NEVER, after my Mg "therapy". effingamazing stuff....

Do NOT buy that ripoff magnesium called Calm.... total overpriced bull****,
50x the price of regular MgO from Puritan's Pride et al.

Heh, mebbe I should pour some Mg tablets in the water heater.... which
won't work, cuz you need elemental Mg in an anode, vites/minerals are ionic.
--
EA

"Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

You should be able to get the anode at a decent plumbing supply house.

They even make collapsible ones so you can install them without have if to
unplumbed the WH. I saw it on TOH a few years ago. I don't know how widely
available that style is, but they are out there.

On Jan 25, 7:41*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....

You should be able to get the anode at a decent plumbing supply house.

They even make collapsible ones so you can install them without have if to
unplumbed the WH. I saw it on TOH a few years ago. I don't know how widely
available that style is, but they are out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

They are available online too. There are two theories as
to whether it makes sense to check them and replace when
they are depleted:

1 - You should do so because they are essential in prolonging the life
of the tank.

2 - They are essential from the beginning to get the normal
life out of the tank, but by the time they are gone, it's not worth it
to replace because other tank/water heater failure mechanisms are
going to doom it anyway.

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:17:23 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).


1 inch copper to the heater is becoming more common., but 3/4 is most
common. 1/2" isvirtually obsolete.
----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 07:36:59 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron
wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode
disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never
heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to
Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this
fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

They can be aluminum, magnesium, or zinc/tin/aluminum. Magnesium is
generally better than aluminum, and the alloy ones are better yet - if
you need the advantages.

That makes sense. Which proly means a new anode is going to break the
effing bank.


Aluminum is about $20, Magnesium about 40, and the super-duper alloy
units with zinc, aluminum and Tin for use where iron bacteria causes
stinky water should cost you about 50 clams - available online from
plumbingsupply.com, among others.
Home Despot usually carries them as well - might cost you an extra
10spot.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

Our local Home Hardware carries them
Good to know. The less contact I have with HD the better.
Sears is no picnic either, but it is a Kenmore heater, so I've got a better
shot....


I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?

I'm anal about pressure drop. There was 1" brass that was plumbed down to
3/4 copper, which I replaced, and used 1" brass, until I reduced it down to
3/4 brass. Dopey me.... if you see how the anode is placed, I coulda come
in with 1/2", with no worry about pressure....

And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Altho the DRI lists an "upper limit" for Mg, that simply reflects the dosage
at which some people get a laxative effect.
There is consderable opinion that the RDA for Mg is way too low (about 350
mg iirc), with some advocating 1,000+ mg -- in divided doses, cuz 1,000 mg
in one shot will send you to the throne.
One of the better laxative methods, btw.

The point being, if yer hot tea/coffee is not sending you to the throne, yer
not getting too much magnesium.
I supplement with 250-500 mg religiously, occasionally 750, 1,000 -- heh,
but only on weekends.... LOL

Mg is quite the miracle element -- extraordinary, in fact, used in ERs (as
IV) for acute asthma attacks and can be anti-asthmatic even in pill form,
will immediately lower blood pressure, and being a 2+ ion, apparently
competes with Ca2+ for oxalates (kidney stones), thereby virtually
eliminating the risk of kidney stones. I went from *chronic* kidney stones
to NEVER, after my Mg "therapy". effingamazing stuff....

Do NOT buy that ripoff magnesium called Calm.... total overpriced bull****,
50x the price of regular MgO from Puritan's Pride et al.

Heh, mebbe I should pour some Mg tablets in the water heater.... which
won't work, cuz you need elemental Mg in an anode, vites/minerals are ionic.

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 12:41:44 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

"Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

You should be able to get the anode at a decent plumbing supply house.

They even make collapsible ones so you can install them without have if to
unplumbed the WH. I saw it on TOH a few years ago. I don't know how widely
available that style is, but they are out there.
The combo ones are a pain in the tush - require disconnecting - but
many use hex-head ones that go in like a pipe plug. Usually if the
head is dlat theyare aluminum, and if they have a dimple they are
magnesium.

On Jan 25, 4:05*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....
--
EA

A 10-year-old water heater is likely about to split anyway, but go
ahead and get the anode, the ones I've seen haven't been THAT
expensive. Not as expensive as a new heater, anyway. If you don't
have a dielectric break fitting at the inlet and outlet, you may want
to retrofit them, they'll keep the electrolysis down, particularly if
you've got brass and copper going to iron. Wouldn't matter so much if
you had pure-as-distilled water, but that's not coming out of the
supply pipes these days and you'll have some degree of electrolysis
going on somewhere. If you haven't been flushing the tank annually,
you've probably got lime build-up which will cost you money in terms
of more gas needed.

I've seen anodes at the big boxes and some hardware stores that carry
more than plastic pipe fittings. Depending on where you are, you may
have to visit a real plumbing supply house and pay over regular price
because you're not a regular plumber or builder.

Stan

In article ,
"Existential Angst" wrote:

Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....


OT, but along the same lines...

Those horrible Magnesium thermostat housings a lot of auto mfg's use
serve the same purpose as water heater anode rods.

Replacing them with cast iron can accelerate freeze plug failures, and
cooling system deterioration.

Erik

In rec.crafts.metalworking DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

You should be able to get the anode at a decent plumbing supply house.

They even make collapsible ones so you can install them without have if to
unplumbed the WH. I saw it on TOH a few years ago. I don't know how widely
available that style is, but they are out there.

they have sausage string ones you can sort of snake back into the port if
stuff is in the way.

wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:17:23 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).


1 inch copper to the heater is becoming more common., but 3/4 is most
common. 1/2" isvirtually obsolete.
----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Your not supposed to drink from the tank. Sometimes I have to take
magnesium supplement. Many people are probably lacking magnesium.

Many convert to aluminum rods who don't constantly use the tank. Magnesium
makes certain bacteria thrive, producing sulphur smelling water if tank
goes to room temperature. I have that problem in trailer.

Seems like most residential tanks crap out around 10 years.

Greg

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 07:36:59 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:




That makes sense. Which proly means a new anode is going to break the
effing bank.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#magnesium-anodes/=l743m7
Less than $30

At 10 years, chances are the heater is going to crap out in another
year or two anyway.

Cydrome Leader wrote:
In rec.crafts.metalworking DerbyDad03 wrote:
"Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?


You should be able to get the anode at a decent plumbing supply house.

They even make collapsible ones so you can install them without have if to
unplumbed the WH. I saw it on TOH a few years ago. I don't know how widely
available that style is, but they are out there.

they have sausage string ones you can sort of snake back into the port if
stuff is in the way.

Ummm...yeah...I just said that.

On Jan 25, 12:17*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"









wrote:

Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. *They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. *The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. *Most people never even know they exist. *Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. *You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". *What's with that?
And is that really 1"? *Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. *Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

If you live in a limescaling area, your water will be full of
magnesium anyway.

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Jan 25, 12:17 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"









wrote:

Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode
disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to
Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this
fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

If you live in a limescaling area, your water will be full of
magnesium anyway.
================================================== =======

Ionic magnesium, not elemental magnesium.
You need the "free metal" (ditto zinc, etc) to essentially donate its
electrons, and become the sacrificial lamb in the oxidative process, thereby
protecting the iron. Once ionized (dissolved in solution), it's useless as
an anti-rust factor, theoretically can make it worse, all other things being
equal.
--
EA

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:17:23 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Extra Mg+ in water.. Not much..
since we really don't ingest water that came from the HW tap..

I.E. Drinking water/ice makers use cold water.

Decreasing temp of HW heater also prolongs sceptical anodes..

gregz wrote:
Seems like most residential tanks crap out around 10 years.

Closer to 20 years here. It depends on your water.

On 01/25/2013 06:05 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....


have a look at waterheaterrescue.com - they sell replacement anodes, dip
tubes, etc.

I also recommend piecing together a ball valve setup like they sell. It
was cheaper for me to source the parts locally rather than ordering from
them (it's a 3/4" dielectric nipple, a 3/4" NPT ball valve, and a 3/4"
NPT to garden hose adapter fitting with a garden hose thread cap on the
end.) Haven't yet tried to flush a water heater and not had to cap the
valve afterwards because the valve wouldn't seal again

nate



--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 01/25/2013 11:19 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 07:36:59 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:




That makes sense. Which proly means a new anode is going to break the
effing bank.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#magnesium-anodes/=l743m7
Less than $30

At 10 years, chances are the heater is going to crap out in another
year or two anyway.


The gas water heater at my last house was 18 years old when I replaced
the anode and drain valve as PM. The anode was obviously consumed but
not down to the wire yet. I also had to replace the T&P valve as it was
weak and tried to flood the basement a couple times. Didn't see any
need to replace the entire thing however.

It eventually was replaced when we put the house up for sale as the age
was of concern to potential buyers according to agent, however, I'm not
certain that the replacement was in any way necessary for functional
reasons.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:28:25 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:



At 10 years, chances are the heater is going to crap out in another
year or two anyway.


The gas water heater at my last house was 18 years old when I replaced
the anode and drain valve as PM. The anode was obviously consumed but
not down to the wire yet.

Older water heaters, like many other products, used to last a lot
longer than the ones made today. Of course, water conditions can make
a difference also.

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:47:49 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On Jan 25, 4:05*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....
--
EA

A 10-year-old water heater is likely about to split anyway, but go
ahead and get the anode, the ones I've seen haven't been THAT
expensive. Not as expensive as a new heater, anyway. If you don't
have a dielectric break fitting at the inlet and outlet, you may want
to retrofit them, they'll keep the electrolysis down, particularly if
you've got brass and copper going to iron. Wouldn't matter so much if
you had pure-as-distilled water, but that's not coming out of the
supply pipes these days and you'll have some degree of electrolysis
going on somewhere. If you haven't been flushing the tank annually,
you've probably got lime build-up which will cost you money in terms
of more gas needed.


I've been getting 18 years out of mine - no idea if there was an anode
left when the tank went out or not. If not, quite possible that by
replacing the anode it would have lasted 25.
I've seen anodes at the big boxes and some hardware stores that carry
more than plastic pipe fittings. Depending on where you are, you may
have to visit a real plumbing supply house and pay over regular price
because you're not a regular plumber or builder.

There is generally a do-it-yourself plumbing supply in most centers of
any sise. Here in Waterloo Region it is "One Stop Plumbing". They
will sell you anything you need, for less than the HD price - and have
a plumber or 2 on staff who will do the installation at a reasonable
rate if you need that. Their markup over my cost at Marks Supply (a
wholesaler) is generally less than 10%.

Stan

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 02:33:50 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:17:23 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?
And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).


1 inch copper to the heater is becoming more common., but 3/4 is most
common. 1/2" isvirtually obsolete.
----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Your not supposed to drink from the tank. Sometimes I have to take
magnesium supplement. Many people are probably lacking magnesium.

I've been on magnesium suppliments for several years to reduce the
calcific tendonitis troubles in my shoulders. Too much just gives you
the "squirts". Think "milk of magnesia"

Many convert to aluminum rods who don't constantly use the tank. Magnesium
makes certain bacteria thrive, producing sulphur smelling water if tank
goes to room temperature. I have that problem in trailer.

So you want to use the alloy ones containing ZINC

Seems like most residential tanks crap out around 10 years.
Mine have all made or exceded 18.

Greg

On Jan 26, 5:28*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 02:33:50 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:





wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:17:23 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. *They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. *The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. *Most people never even know they exist. *Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. *You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". *What's with that?
And is that really 1"? *Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

1 inch copper to the heater is becoming more common., but 3/4 is most
common. *1/2" isvirtually obsolete.
----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. *Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Your not supposed to drink from the tank. Sometimes I have to take
magnesium supplement. Many people are probably lacking magnesium.

I've been on magnesium suppliments for several years to reduce the
calcific tendonitis troubles in my shoulders. Too much just gives you
the "squirts". *Think "milk of magnesia"



Many convert to aluminum rods who don't constantly use the tank. Magnesium
makes certain bacteria thrive, producing sulphur smelling water if tank
goes to room temperature. I have that problem in trailer.

So you want to use the alloy ones containing ZINC

Seems like most residential tanks crap out around 10 years.

Mine have all made or exceded 18.





Greg

around pittsburgh 12 year warranty tanks tend to fail around 10
years....

but thats ok most are filled with crud that cant be flushed out...
they tend to make boiling noise near end of life.

Newer gas tanks are more efficent with better insulation, and no crud
build up...

Years ago I cut a old tank open, the bottom 1/3rd was filled with a
hard rock like sediment..

I usually replace tanks early at my convenience before they leak and
make a mess. Or worse fail christmas eve with house guests coming:
( That SUCKED"www.jeffcolakes.com

Assume a brand new tank is 500 bucks DIY install. the tank warranty is
12 years but tend to fail at 10 or eleven.

so I replace it at 10 years, I mark the install date on the new tank.

500 bucks divided by 10 years is 50 bucks per year, kinda cheap for
peace of mind, and less than a buck candy bar per month....

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 16:42:46 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:47:49 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On Jan 25, 4:05*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....
--
EA

A 10-year-old water heater is likely about to split anyway, but go
ahead and get the anode, the ones I've seen haven't been THAT
expensive. Not as expensive as a new heater, anyway. If you don't
have a dielectric break fitting at the inlet and outlet, you may want
to retrofit them, they'll keep the electrolysis down, particularly if
you've got brass and copper going to iron. Wouldn't matter so much if
you had pure-as-distilled water, but that's not coming out of the
supply pipes these days and you'll have some degree of electrolysis
going on somewhere. If you haven't been flushing the tank annually,
you've probably got lime build-up which will cost you money in terms
of more gas needed.

It's easy to tell - if you or the prior owner has been flushing the
tank regularly the cheap-ass plastic drain valve has leaked or cracked
and burned someone, and has been yanked for a proper brass-body Boiler
Drain. I do them at the new install, just because it's dry and easy.

I've been getting 18 years out of mine - no idea if there was an anode
left when the tank went out or not. If not, quite possible that by
replacing the anode it would have lasted 25.
I've seen anodes at the big boxes and some hardware stores that carry
more than plastic pipe fittings. Depending on where you are, you may
have to visit a real plumbing supply house and pay over regular price
because you're not a regular plumber or builder.

There is generally a do-it-yourself plumbing supply in most centers of
any sise. Here in Waterloo Region it is "One Stop Plumbing". They
will sell you anything you need, for less than the HD price - and have
a plumber or 2 on staff who will do the installation at a reasonable
rate if you need that. Their markup over my cost at Marks Supply (a
wholesaler) is generally less than 10%.

Most people aren't going to go through that mess of changing the anode
unless they have really bad water that chews through water heaters in
a couple of years, and they're tired of fighting for their warranty
money each time.

How long a water heater lasts is all depends on the water chemistry at
your house, and the quality of the water heater itself.

If it's really "nice" soft water coming in, and they made the water
heater right with no defects in the enamel lining, and the shipping
company didn't bounce the unit on the way to the store and the Plumber
or installer on the way to your house, and you change the anode before
it's gone so it takes any remaining abuse - theoretically they can
live forever.

But life is never that simple. I /always/ put them in an outside
closet whenever possible, or somewhere an occasional flood isn't going
to be an immediate disaster - then when it dies every 12 years or so
you replace it, and life goes on.

But you get the architects and builders that put the water heater in
the attic or the 2nd Floor Laundry Room, and the expect that little
Smitty Pan to catch the leak. Hot Flash: They NEVER Do. EVER.

The drain gets clogged with trash and dirt, or I've seen them where
they installed the drain at the wrong spot in the pan and moved it -
and there's a huge open leak right next to the drain fitting. Or the
leak is a squirter that gets to the far walls. Or they use a cheap
plastic pan that cracks after a few years.

Even a floor drain in the room is no guarantee that the water won't
find another lower way out of the room, and you find a new waterfall
from the Living Room ceiling.

"Instant" water heaters are finally getting mass produced in enough
volume to be reasonably priced, I'm going that way next time.

-- Bruce --

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:47:27 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 16:42:46 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:47:49 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On Jan 25, 4:05*am, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. *After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... * just a long rusty iron wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater *any favors by letting the anode disappear.
The Q is: *how much damage? *Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. *Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? * I've never heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? *Or do I have to go back to Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. *Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this fairly
****es me off.... *live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. *Still.....
--
EA

A 10-year-old water heater is likely about to split anyway, but go
ahead and get the anode, the ones I've seen haven't been THAT
expensive. Not as expensive as a new heater, anyway. If you don't
have a dielectric break fitting at the inlet and outlet, you may want
to retrofit them, they'll keep the electrolysis down, particularly if
you've got brass and copper going to iron. Wouldn't matter so much if
you had pure-as-distilled water, but that's not coming out of the
supply pipes these days and you'll have some degree of electrolysis
going on somewhere. If you haven't been flushing the tank annually,
you've probably got lime build-up which will cost you money in terms
of more gas needed.

It's easy to tell - if you or the prior owner has been flushing the
tank regularly the cheap-ass plastic drain valve has leaked or cracked
and burned someone, and has been yanked for a proper brass-body Boiler
Drain. I do them at the new install, just because it's dry and easy.

I've been getting 18 years out of mine - no idea if there was an anode
left when the tank went out or not. If not, quite possible that by
replacing the anode it would have lasted 25.
I've seen anodes at the big boxes and some hardware stores that carry
more than plastic pipe fittings. Depending on where you are, you may
have to visit a real plumbing supply house and pay over regular price
because you're not a regular plumber or builder.

There is generally a do-it-yourself plumbing supply in most centers of
any sise. Here in Waterloo Region it is "One Stop Plumbing". They
will sell you anything you need, for less than the HD price - and have
a plumber or 2 on staff who will do the installation at a reasonable
rate if you need that. Their markup over my cost at Marks Supply (a
wholesaler) is generally less than 10%.

Most people aren't going to go through that mess of changing the anode
unless they have really bad water that chews through water heaters in
a couple of years, and they're tired of fighting for their warranty
money each time.

How long a water heater lasts is all depends on the water chemistry at
your house, and the quality of the water heater itself.

If it's really "nice" soft water coming in, and they made the water
heater right with no defects in the enamel lining, and the shipping
company didn't bounce the unit on the way to the store and the Plumber
or installer on the way to your house, and you change the anode before
it's gone so it takes any remaining abuse - theoretically they can
live forever.

But life is never that simple. I /always/ put them in an outside
closet whenever possible, or somewhere an occasional flood isn't going
to be an immediate disaster - then when it dies every 12 years or so
you replace it, and life goes on.

But you get the architects and builders that put the water heater in
the attic or the 2nd Floor Laundry Room, and the expect that little
Smitty Pan to catch the leak. Hot Flash: They NEVER Do. EVER.

The drain gets clogged with trash and dirt, or I've seen them where
they installed the drain at the wrong spot in the pan and moved it -
and there's a huge open leak right next to the drain fitting. Or the
leak is a squirter that gets to the far walls. Or they use a cheap
plastic pan that cracks after a few years.

Even a floor drain in the room is no guarantee that the water won't
find another lower way out of the room, and you find a new waterfall
from the Living Room ceiling.

"Instant" water heaters are finally getting mass produced in enough
volume to be reasonably priced, I'm going that way next time.

-- Bruce --
Good luck with your tankless. I think you will need it.

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

If you are in a frost free zone you can do like they did in Zambia -
outside Geisers - some even wood heated.

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:47:27 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 16:42:46 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:47:49 -0800 (PST), Stanley Schaefer

...


There is generally a do-it-yourself plumbing supply in most centers of
any sise. Here in Waterloo Region it is "One Stop Plumbing". They
will sell you anything you need, for less than the HD price - and have
a plumber or 2 on staff who will do the installation at a reasonable
rate if you need that. Their markup over my cost at Marks Supply (a
wholesaler) is generally less than 10%.

Most people aren't going to go through that mess of changing the anode
unless they have really bad water that chews through water heaters in
a couple of years, and they're tired of fighting for their warranty
money each time.

How long a water heater lasts is all depends on the water chemistry at
your house, and the quality of the water heater itself.

If it's really "nice" soft water coming in, and they made the water
heater right with no defects in the enamel lining, and the shipping
company didn't bounce the unit on the way to the store and the Plumber
or installer on the way to your house, and you change the anode before
it's gone so it takes any remaining abuse - theoretically they can
live forever.

But life is never that simple. I /always/ put them in an outside
closet whenever possible, or somewhere an occasional flood isn't going
to be an immediate disaster - then when it dies every 12 years or so
you replace it, and life goes on.

But you get the architects and builders that put the water heater in
the attic or the 2nd Floor Laundry Room, and the expect that little
Smitty Pan to catch the leak. Hot Flash: They NEVER Do. EVER.

The drain gets clogged with trash and dirt, or I've seen them where
they installed the drain at the wrong spot in the pan and moved it -
and there's a huge open leak right next to the drain fitting. Or the
leak is a squirter that gets to the far walls. Or they use a cheap
plastic pan that cracks after a few years.

Even a floor drain in the room is no guarantee that the water won't
find another lower way out of the room, and you find a new waterfall
from the Living Room ceiling.

"Instant" water heaters are finally getting mass produced in enough
volume to be reasonably priced, I'm going that way next time.

-- Bruce --
Good luck with your tankless. I think you will need it.

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

Basements are nice but it's not always possible or affordable. Even
with a walk-out basement, the builder of this house put the water
heated in the garage. No idea why. There's 2000ft^2 of unfinished
space in the basement. It's a long way from the garage to the master,
in the morning, too!

If you are in a frost free zone you can do like they did in Zambia -
outside Geisers - some even wood heated.

Geisers? Wood heated?

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:




Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:




Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
--
Cheers,

John B.

"John B." wrote in message
...

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
John B.

Are you seriously asking this in rec.crafts.metalworking???

On Jan 30, 6:34*am, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. *You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
--
Cheers,

John B.

The problem here is that some folks think that because using basements
as living spaces is common in Canada, where they are from, that it's
done everywhere. Here in the northeast USA, many basements, probably
the majority of them, are not finished. And even those that are,
the water heater, furnace, etc are almost always in an unfinished
area seperated off from the finished space.
So the idea that if you put a water heater in a basement someone is
likely going to see it every day is bogus.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:11:42 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 30, 6:34*am, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. *You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
--
Cheers,

John B.

The problem here is that some folks think that because using basements
as living spaces is common in Canada, where they are from, that it's
done everywhere. Here in the northeast USA, many basements, probably
the majority of them, are not finished.

Agreed, WRT the NE, though it seems that older houses tend to have a
higher probability of having the basements finished. The houses tend
to be smaller so people look for a way to expand their footprint
cheaply.

Here in the SE, basements are uncommon to rare, depending on the
terrain. Judging by my house-hunting last year, about a third of
basements are finished and a third completely unfinished. The one we
bought is *completely* unfinished (no insulation in the 2-1/2 above
ground walls, even).

And even those that are,
the water heater, furnace, etc are almost always in an unfinished
area seperated off from the finished space.

My water heater is in the garage and the heat pumps are in the attic.
Go figure. ;-)

So the idea that if you put a water heater in a basement someone is
likely going to see it every day is bogus.

A leak in an unfinished basement (or unfinished area) will cause less
damage than one in the living area. Of course if it's not caught for
a week...

On 1/29/2013 6:25 PM, wrote:

********Trim Da Phat********


Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


My favorite spot for a water heater in a slab home or house without a
basement is a well ventilated laundry room. Unless you're crazy with
spraying bleach around the room or dropping powered detergent on the
floor and stirring it up so it gets to the burner of a gas fired water
heater there should be no problems. The last tankless electric water
heater I installed was in a laundry room. ^_^

TDD

On 1/30/2013 8:42 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:11:42 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 30, 6:34 am, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
--
Cheers,

John B.

The problem here is that some folks think that because using basements
as living spaces is common in Canada, where they are from, that it's
done everywhere. Here in the northeast USA, many basements, probably
the majority of them, are not finished.

Agreed, WRT the NE, though it seems that older houses tend to have a
higher probability of having the basements finished. The houses tend
to be smaller so people look for a way to expand their footprint
cheaply.

Here in the SE, basements are uncommon to rare, depending on the
terrain. Judging by my house-hunting last year, about a third of
basements are finished and a third completely unfinished. The one we
bought is *completely* unfinished (no insulation in the 2-1/2 above
ground walls, even).

And even those that are,
the water heater, furnace, etc are almost always in an unfinished
area seperated off from the finished space.

My water heater is in the garage and the heat pumps are in the attic.
Go figure. ;-)

So the idea that if you put a water heater in a basement someone is
likely going to see it every day is bogus.

A leak in an unfinished basement (or unfinished area) will cause less
damage than one in the living area. Of course if it's not caught for
a week...


Many homes in this area have the garage in the basement and the furnace
and water are next to each other and are seen whenever the home owner
pulls their car into the garage. Of course the building code requires
that a gas fired water heater be 18" off the floor to prevent gasoline
fumes from the vehicle being ignited. ^_^

TDD

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:




Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.
I realise it's not always possible - but even a "service room"
would usually be possible unless you are building in a swamp. I
didn't say destroy what already exists - but in halt the US a "storm
cellar" wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 18:34:17 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:




Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
I spend a LOT of my time in the basement. Hardly a Cellar. Up here
the basement is VERY often finished, heated living space.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:53:58 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
John B.

Are you seriously asking this in rec.crafts.metalworking???


My metalworking is in the Garage. My computer is in the basement -
along with my electronics workbench, my TV and stereo, treadmill, etc.
etc.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:11:42 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 1/29/2013 6:25 PM, wrote:

********Trim Da Phat********


Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


My favorite spot for a water heater in a slab home or house without a
basement is a well ventilated laundry room. Unless you're crazy with
spraying bleach around the room or dropping powered detergent on the
floor and stirring it up so it gets to the burner of a gas fired water
heater there should be no problems. The last tankless electric water
heater I installed was in a laundry room. ^_^

TDD
And it will be the last one you install?????

On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:11:42 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 30, 6:34*am, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:56:51 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 19:25:02 -0500, wrote:

Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.

Right, destroy all those homes than cannot have a basement. *You can
always settle those people on reservations in the Dakotas.

I wonder, with the automated heat systems that are now the norm, how
often does the average home owner go down and snoop about in the
cellar?
--
Cheers,

John B.

The problem here is that some folks think that because using basements
as living spaces is common in Canada, where they are from, that it's
done everywhere. Here in the northeast USA, many basements, probably
the majority of them, are not finished. And even those that are,
the water heater, furnace, etc are almost always in an unfinished
area seperated off from the finished space.
So the idea that if you put a water heater in a basement someone is
likely going to see it every day is bogus.
That was not the whole idea. A water heater in the ATTIC??? If it
leaks the water rund DOWN through everything - everything is soaked
before you know there is a problem. And in a closet id is usually
jammed in with not much room around it - and can leak for quite a
while before it is seen. In a basement (unfinished area - on concrete
floor) when it leaks the water heads for the floor drain, under the
subfloor if there is one, and does little damage unless it ruptures.
Not being jammed into a dark closet it is more likely to be checked
every once in a while.

On 1/30/2013 3:57 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:11:42 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 1/29/2013 6:25 PM, wrote:

********Trim Da Phat********


Houses should have basements - that's where water heaters belong. And
not hidden in a closet - you want them out where you can see it every
day so you see the first sign of seapage.


My favorite spot for a water heater in a slab home or house without a
basement is a well ventilated laundry room. Unless you're crazy with
spraying bleach around the room or dropping powered detergent on the
floor and stirring it up so it gets to the burner of a gas fired water
heater there should be no problems. The last tankless electric water
heater I installed was in a laundry room. ^_^

TDD
And it will be the last one you install?????


Huh? Was my statement too difficult to understand? O_o

TDD