(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George


I used a breaker bar, with 1 1/8 socket, and pipe extension to loosen
mine. Was tight, but not to the point where I was worried that
something would give. Make sure the tank is nearly full, that will
give you something to pull against. I agree about not using a torch
to heat. On mine there was little room to get at it, even if you
wanted to heat it.

"George" wrote in message
...
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Can't really comment on the heat / no heat option sorry, but, here are my 2
cents on the whole scenario

I don't know how much torque you are putting on the heater, but I found that
having someone there to help hold the heater in place when trying to break
the threads free was a wise idea. You could rip the heater right off its
moorings if you tried hard enough.

all that a side, I don't see how replacing the anode is going to fix your
rust problem. The anode is there to prevent rust, the rod itself ( with
the exception of a wire down the inside of the anode material) doesn't
really rust but more just disintegrates. If you have rust in the heater, a
new anode may slow down the development of more rust, but, you still have
rust there. And if you have rust in the tank, that means that some part of
the tank is no longer as strong as it once was.


Dave

George wrote:
Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat

I've used a portable air tank and an automotive style impact driver.

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "Zephyr" Someguy@an email
address.com wrote:


"George" wrote in message
.. .
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Can't really comment on the heat / no heat option sorry, but, here are my 2
cents on the whole scenario

I don't know how much torque you are putting on the heater, but I found that
having someone there to help hold the heater in place when trying to break
the threads free was a wise idea. You could rip the heater right off its
moorings if you tried hard enough.

I threaded a piece of 3/4" black pipe into the T&P outlet, and use that
to brace against.

all that a side, I don't see how replacing the anode is going to fix your
rust problem. The anode is there to prevent rust, the rod itself ( with
the exception of a wire down the inside of the anode material) doesn't
really rust but more just disintegrates. If you have rust in the heater, a
new anode may slow down the development of more rust, but, you still have
rust there. And if you have rust in the tank, that means that some part of
the tank is no longer as strong as it once was.

There's a lot I don't know about this. It's odd that the rust (if
that's what it is) showed up so abruptly. The mfr's warranty support
insists that the rod will fix it. The rod is only $20; so, other than
the difficulty of getting it out, I'm willing to try.

I'm now considering taking the top of the shell off. That would let me
pull the insulation out of the way, and then I could go with the torch.

G

George wrote:
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "Zephyr" Someguy@an email
address.com wrote:

"George" wrote in message
...
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George
Can't really comment on the heat / no heat option sorry, but, here are my 2
cents on the whole scenario

I don't know how much torque you are putting on the heater, but I found that
having someone there to help hold the heater in place when trying to break
the threads free was a wise idea. You could rip the heater right off its
moorings if you tried hard enough.

I threaded a piece of 3/4" black pipe into the T&P outlet, and use that
to brace against.

all that a side, I don't see how replacing the anode is going to fix your
rust problem. The anode is there to prevent rust, the rod itself ( with
the exception of a wire down the inside of the anode material) doesn't
really rust but more just disintegrates. If you have rust in the heater, a
new anode may slow down the development of more rust, but, you still have
rust there. And if you have rust in the tank, that means that some part of
the tank is no longer as strong as it once was.

There's a lot I don't know about this. It's odd that the rust (if
that's what it is) showed up so abruptly. The mfr's warranty support
insists that the rod will fix it. The rod is only $20; so, other than
the difficulty of getting it out, I'm willing to try.

I'm now considering taking the top of the shell off. That would let me
pull the insulation out of the way, and then I could go with the torch.

G
Ya, don't believe the manufacturer. On
mine they said, the reason for large
swings in temperature was sediment and
that I must put vinegar in the tank,
let it sit and then flush it out.
Didn't work, no how. About the only
thing is
that for about 2 weeks, when showering,
we had a hankering for salad, until
it all flushed clean. On my new tank, I
had a leak at the anode rod. This was
brand new, right out of the box. As I
didn't want to un-install it and return it,
I tried to tighten it. I got one of
those sockets from the plumbing department
where you put a large screwdriver or rod
through it, for leverage. I bent the
screwdriver and a rod. I finally put 2
pipe wrenches on the socket, and with
2 people, one on each wrench, we were
able to loosen it. Put Teflon tape
on the threads and torqued it down. I
know it's making contact, as I checked
with an ohmmeter. But, we got the leak
stopped.

George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out
dirty. The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is,
how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right
now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Keep pouring the Liquid Wrench to it, and tapping it gently all around the
connection. Do so periodically for a full day if you can. Let it set
overnight, tap it some more, and try to loosen it. The tapping helps the
oil penetrate into the rust. Careful of high heat (torch) when you've got
oil all over it.

Keep an eye on it whenever using an extender; you could twist the whole
thing loose. If you see the whole union move, stop!

If you can get wrenches onto it, one to loosen, the other to hold the base
still, then you could put a puller or clamp on it to squeeze them together
to loosen it. Watch out it doesn't break, though.

On Feb 13, 3:56�pm, "Pop`" wrote:
George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. *Cold water is
clear. *I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out
dirty. The company says to replace the anode rod. *The question is,
how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. *I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. *Right
now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. *I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while *the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. *In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Keep pouring the Liquid Wrench to it, and tapping it gently all around the
connection. *Do so periodically for a full day if you can. *Let it set
overnight, tap it some more, and try to loosen it. *The tapping helps the
oil penetrate into the rust. *Careful of high heat (torch) when you've got
oil all over it.

Keep an eye on it whenever using an extender; you could twist the whole
thing loose. *If you see the whole union move, stop!

If you can get wrenches onto it, one to loosen, the other to hold the base
still, then you could put a puller or clamp on it to squeeze them together
to loosen it. *Watch out it doesn't break, though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For the cost of a new tank I would just replace it! At minimum BE
PREPARED to replace!

Take a new tank installed for 500 bucks averages 10 year life, whats
50 bucks a year? one nice candy bar a week....

Less if you DIY.

Your better off with a larger tank with higher BTUs so you dont run
out of hot water!

50 gallon 75,000 BTU way better than a 40 gallon 34,000 BTU tank.

as others pointed out, replacing the anode will NOT get rid of the
rust, its just wasting your time

Besides check that if you get the old anode lose it will clear the
cieling of the space its in........

anodfe rod likey 5 feet long and just 3 foot between top of tank and
cieling

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:

(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George


Not that I've ever done this, but I remember someone saying tapping it
once or twice can help. Just a story I remember, but I found some
extra inform on the web:
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/pl_oth...271153,00.html

Good luck,

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com

I've used a portable air tank and an automotive style impact driver.

If you don't have an air compressor big enough (or don't want to spend
the bucks for a nice air tool), you can get an electric impact driver
from Harbor Freight Tools for about $100 (they have a weaker one
that's even less). Anyway, the thing is massive and must weigh 20
pounds but mine has yet to meet a bolt it couldn't shake loose (even
transmission mounting bolts with plenty of permanent red threadlocker).

On Feb 13, 3:56 pm, "Pop`" wrote:
George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out
dirty. The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is,
how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right
now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Keep pouring the Liquid Wrench to it, and tapping it gently all around the
connection. Do so periodically for a full day if you can. Let it set
overnight, tap it some more, and try to loosen it. The tapping helps the
oil penetrate into the rust. Careful of high heat (torch) when you've got
oil all over it.

Keep an eye on it whenever using an extender; you could twist the whole
thing loose. If you see the whole union move, stop!

Is that the pumbers union? Or maybe the electrical workers
untion? ? Last time I checked the freeking anode is just screwed
into the top of the freeking water heater tank, without any union.



If you can get wrenches onto it, one to loosen, the other to hold the base
still, then you could put a puller or clamp on it to squeeze them together
to loosen it. Watch out it doesn't break, though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"George" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "Zephyr" Someguy@an email
address.com wrote:


"George" wrote in message
. ..
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Can't really comment on the heat / no heat option sorry, but, here are my
2
cents on the whole scenario

I don't know how much torque you are putting on the heater, but I found
that
having someone there to help hold the heater in place when trying to break
the threads free was a wise idea. You could rip the heater right off its
moorings if you tried hard enough.

I threaded a piece of 3/4" black pipe into the T&P outlet, and use that
to brace against.

all that a side, I don't see how replacing the anode is going to fix your
rust problem. The anode is there to prevent rust, the rod itself ( with
the exception of a wire down the inside of the anode material) doesn't
really rust but more just disintegrates. If you have rust in the heater,
a
new anode may slow down the development of more rust, but, you still have
rust there. And if you have rust in the tank, that means that some part
of
the tank is no longer as strong as it once was.

There's a lot I don't know about this. It's odd that the rust (if
that's what it is) showed up so abruptly. The mfr's warranty support
insists that the rod will fix it. The rod is only $20; so, other than
the difficulty of getting it out, I'm willing to try.

I'm now considering taking the top of the shell off. That would let me
pull the insulation out of the way, and then I could go with the torch.

G
Rust or other sediment generally shows up in the water because something in
the water supply has been disturbed. Sometimes just a loss of pressure will
cause it when the water comes back on. If the water company flushes the fire
hydrants, you can get rust for a while afterward. It nearly always clears by
itself after a day or so.

It may take a 6 point socket and a lot of torque to loosen the anode. There
is some possibility that something else will give way before it loosens so
it may not be worthwhile on a heater that old. I would just flush the heater
good and wait for it to clear up.

Don Young

George wrote:

(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right now,
I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:

(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar. And, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. They were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. Instead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. For the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

On Feb 14, 6:59�am, George wrote:
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. *Cold water is
clear. *I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. *The question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar. *And, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. *They were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. *Instead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. *For the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

The tank is bad! Replace it now or live with rusty water and know tank
WILL leak and perhaps flood! You will have NO hot water! No doubt at
the most iconvenient time

Tanks are cheap enough I replace mine every 10 years wether its bad or
not.

After a BAD experience where it failed during a blizzard and took 3
days to replace, occured on a sunday just after stores closed next day
storm, had trouble hetting parts, leaky fittings.

OBVIOUSLY your a new homeowner, once you have a little unpleasant
exp[eriences you will KNOW you should just replace the tank, espically
when your wife and kids are mad theres no hot water for bathing....

Homeowners 101 you havent gotten your certificate of achivement YET


The white slugey stuff is normal...

On 14 Feb 2007 04:56:39 -0800, "
wrote:

On Feb 14, 6:59?am, George wrote:
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago.
old water is
clear. flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. he question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar.
nd, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. hey were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. nstead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. or the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

The tank is bad! Replace it now or live with rusty water and know tank
WILL leak and perhaps flood! You will have NO hot water! No doubt at
the most iconvenient time

Tanks are cheap enough I replace mine every 10 years wether its bad or
not.

After a BAD experience where it failed during a blizzard and took 3
days to replace, occured on a sunday just after stores closed next day
storm, had trouble hetting parts, leaky fittings.

OBVIOUSLY your a new homeowner, once you have a little unpleasant
exp[eriences you will KNOW you should just replace the tank, espically
when your wife and kids are mad theres no hot water for bathing....

Homeowners 101 you havent gotten your certificate of achivement YET


The white slugey stuff is normal...

Actually, we've been in this house for 17 yrs (I think), and replaced
the WH once before. It leaked, water ran to the cellar floor drain.
We've been w/o hot water for 3 days now (I think), and we're managing -
just keep some heat on the stove. In the spectrum of things that can
(and have) gone wrong, it's no big deal.

All the same, we aren't necessarily expecting this to last. But, for
$20, it's a worthwhile experiment.

G

On Feb 14, 8:57 am, George wrote:
On 14 Feb 2007 04:56:39 -0800, "
wrote:

On Feb 14, 6:59?am, George wrote:
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago.
old water is
clear. flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. he question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar.

nd, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's





certainty of that. hey were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. nstead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. or the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

The tank is bad! Replace it now or live with rusty water and know tank
WILL leak and perhaps flood! You will have NO hot water! No doubt at
the most iconvenient time

Tanks are cheap enough I replace mine every 10 years wether its bad or
not.

After a BAD experience where it failed during a blizzard and took 3
days to replace, occured on a sunday just after stores closed next day
storm, had trouble hetting parts, leaky fittings.

OBVIOUSLY your a new homeowner, once you have a little unpleasant
exp[eriences you will KNOW you should just replace the tank, espically
when your wife and kids are mad theres no hot water for bathing....

Homeowners 101 you havent gotten your certificate of achivement YET

The white slugey stuff is normal...

Actually, we've been in this house for 17 yrs (I think), and replaced
the WH once before. It leaked, water ran to the cellar floor drain.
We've been w/o hot water for 3 days now (I think), and we're managing -
just keep some heat on the stove. In the spectrum of things that can
(and have) gone wrong, it's no big deal.

All the same, we aren't necessarily expecting this to last. But, for
$20, it's a worthwhile experiment.

G- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Interesting that the manufacturer says the rod itself can produce the
rust. It thought they were just a solid rod of a sacrificial
metal. But sounds like they are saying the center is made of steel?
In any case, sounds like your anode rod looks normal. I recently
inspected mine, and I'd say it may be about half gone after about 6
years. It also had the white sludge like stuff on it, which is the
desired reaction of the rod slowly erroding, hopefully instead of the
tank.


If the rust is only coming from the water heater, then I agree, it may
be time to just get a new one.

No hot shower is a biggie for us, less important for tub bathers.

So you have gone 3 days without hot water, spent 20 bucks on a anode
rod, how much will the vinegar cost, you will need a LOT to really
clean the tank since the rust MIGHT b formed in the bottom but then
again MAY be near the top

Letus know how it goes your family must be patient I KNOW mine never
is

Some time ago Consumer Reports cut open water heater to check the insides.

As I recall, the 9 or 12 year warranty heaters contained much better
insulation that the 6 year warranty.

If you decide to replace it...
wrote in message
ups.com...
No hot shower is a biggie for us, less important for tub bathers.

So you have gone 3 days without hot water, spent 20 bucks on a anode
rod, how much will the vinegar cost, you will need a LOT to really
clean the tank since the rust MIGHT b formed in the bottom but then
again MAY be near the top

Letus know how it goes your family must be patient I KNOW mine never
is

On Feb 14, 11:47?am, "oklaman" wrote:
Some time ago Consumer Reports cut open water heater to check the insides.

As I recall, the 9 or 12 year warranty heaters contained much better
insulation that the 6 year warranty.

If you decide to replace it...

With hot water heaters your much better off buyimng a longer warranty
heater with higher BTU output so you dont run out of hot water!

The price difference between a 34,000 BTU 40 gallon 6 year warranty
tank and a 50 gallon 75,000 BTU is TWICE the amount of available hot
water, better insulation, better drain valve, likely brass, longer
warranty and not a big price difference!

"George" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:

(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar. And, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. They were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. Instead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. For the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

Glad you got it open,
Mine looks the same with the "sludge" scary to think you drink/shower in
that. but oh well.
I put hydrogen peroxide in mine every month or 2 to kill a sulfur smell that
grows from bacteria in my well.

Dave

On Feb 14, 1:54�pm, "Zephyr" Someguy@an email address.com wrote:
"George" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 18:54:04 GMT, George wrote:

(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. *Cold water is
clear. *I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out dirty.
The company says to replace the anode rod. *The question is, how?

...

The anode rod finally came free, just with repeatedly using the
(extended) breaker bar. *And, it's _not_ rusty, contrary to the mfr's
certainty of that. *They were saying it was the rod that was prodcing
the rust, after its plating had been exhausted. *Instead, it's coated
with white slug (lime?)

So, the rust must be coming from the tank. *For the cost of a rod, I
think I'll go ahead and replace it, do the vinegar flush thing, and see
where it takes us.

G

Glad you got it open,
Mine looks the same with the "sludge" *scary to think you drink/shower in
that. *but oh well.
I put hydrogen peroxide in mine every month or 2 to kill a sulfur smell that
grows from bacteria in my well.

Dave- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Technically you shouldnt drink hot water, for health reasons, nice
cozy warm tank excellent place to grow bacteria

On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:


The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

Technically you shouldnt drink hot water, for health reasons, nice
cozy warm tank excellent place to grow bacteria

Except, the temperature is generally too high for bacteria to
reproduce rapidly (your body gives you a fever of 105*F to fight
infection), the water is under pressure, and is usually full of
chlorine or chloramine.

I don't doubt that there are a few hardy strains of bacteria that
could thrive in such conditions (some particularly nasty
microorganisms can live in natural hot springs, for example), but it
seems pretty unlikely that they could survive the trip through public
water processing plants.

If you have a well, then all bets are off.

mm wrote:

On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:


The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

What are you talking about????

I've changed my anode rod quickly and easily with an impact wrench. The
rod has a standard hex head (1 1/16 inch). Here, look at one:

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...inc-Anode.html

wrote:

Technically you shouldnt drink hot water, for health reasons, nice
cozy warm tank excellent place to grow bacteria

Except, the temperature is generally too high for bacteria to
reproduce rapidly (your body gives you a fever of 105*F to fight
infection), the water is under pressure, and is usually full of
chlorine or chloramine.

I don't doubt that there are a few hardy strains of bacteria that
could thrive in such conditions (some particularly nasty
microorganisms can live in natural hot springs, for example), but it
seems pretty unlikely that they could survive the trip through public
water processing plants.

If you have a well, then all bets are off.

Look up info on the legionella pneumophila bacterium -- the bug that
causes Legionnaire's disease. I keep my water heater at = 140 deg. F to
discourage growth. The bacterium can colonize dead legs of the water
system and pose probs especially in "aerosols" such as showers. It's not
just folks with wells who should be concerned.

In article , NOPSAMmm2005
@bigfoot.com says...
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:


The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

It sounds like you might be confused. There is no pipe attached to
the anode. A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. Even a 12-
point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 02:39:51 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:



mm wrote:

On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:


The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

What are you talking about????

I've changed my anode rod quickly and easily with an impact wrench. The
rod has a standard hex head (1 1/16 inch). Here, look at one:

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...inc-Anode.html

Thanks.

On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:10:39 -0600, Mike Hartigan
wrote:

In article , NOPSAMmm2005
says...
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:


The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

It sounds like you might be confused. There is no pipe attached to
the anode. A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. Even a 12-
point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

Yeah, I was confused. Thanks. I built a shelf over my WH, with only
a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate,
but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.

But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I
understand this now.

On Feb 16, 1:01�pm, mm wrote:
On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 21:10:39 -0600, Mike Hartigan





wrote:
In article , NOPSAMmm2005
says...
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 05:50:47 GMT, Ermalina
wrote:

The time to replace the anode rod is before the tank begins to rust. I
sounds like your tank has rusted considerably.

However, if you want to try replacing the anode rod now, use an impact
wrench to remove the old one. Tighten the new one by hand.

They make open-end impact wrenches?** *What about just using an
open=end wrench and hitting it with a hammer? (while wearing goggles)

**Or is he supposed to cut the pipe off first?

It sounds like you might be confused. *There is no pipe attached to
the anode. *A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. *Even a 12-
point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

Yeah, I was confused. *Thanks. *I built a shelf over my WH, with only
a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate,
but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.

But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I
understand this now.-

They arent worth replacing disturbing the tank may cause a leak

You may have trouble getting the anode rod to clear the cieling even
with no shelf, and if your tank is gas watch the shelf isnt close to
the flue pipe.

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. Next time, I'll get
an impact wrench. I put a new (aluminum) rod in. I flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. One thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

.... And, it's running, no leaks so far. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks to all who replied.

George

"George" wrote in message
...
Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. Next time, I'll get
an impact wrench. I put a new (aluminum) rod in. I flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. One thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

On Feb 19, 9:15�pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"George" wrote in message

...

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. *Next time, I'll get
an impact wrench. *I put a new (aluminum) rod in. *I flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. *One thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

I will be looking for rust reports....

how much vinegar did you add to tank?

does the water smell of vinegar?

inquiring minds want to know?

On 19 Feb 2007 18:53:52 -0800, "
wrote:

On Feb 19, 9:15?pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"George" wrote in message

...

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. ext time, I'll get
an impact wrench. put a new (aluminum) rod in. flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. ne thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

I will be looking for rust reports....

how much vinegar did you add to tank?

2 flushes, 1 gal ea


does the water smell of vinegar?

No. I flushed with water after.

G

On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 19:15:03 -0700, "Bob M." wrote:


"George" wrote in message
.. .
Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. Next time, I'll get
an impact wrench. I put a new (aluminum) rod in. I flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. One thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

Yeah, I did that. The impact wrench is for the next water heater,
whenever that might be.

G

On Feb 19, 10:46�pm, George wrote:
On 19 Feb 2007 18:53:52 -0800, "
wrote:





On Feb 19, 9:15?pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"George" wrote in message

. ..

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. *ext time, I'll get
an impact wrench. * * * * *put a new (aluminum) rod in. * *flushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. *ne thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It
still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

I will be looking for rust reports....

how much vinegar did you add to tank?

2 flushes, 1 gal ea

does the water smell of vinegar?

No. *I flushed with water after. *

G- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Did you pour a gallon of vinegar in the heater input line? Was there
heater full of water at the time? or empty?

Has the rust gone away?

On 20 Feb 2007 07:13:14 -0800, "
wrote:

On Feb 19, 10:46?pm, George wrote:
On 19 Feb 2007 18:53:52 -0800, "
wrote:





On Feb 19, 9:15?pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"George" wrote in message

. ..

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. %xt time, I'll get
an impact wrench. 0ut a new (aluminum) rod in. &lushed the tank
several times, including 2x with vinegar. .e thing I found is that it
flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

....

Did you pour a gallon of vinegar in the heater input line? Was there
heater full of water at the time? or empty?

Oh, yeah. Tank was empty. I poured a gal of white vinegar into the
anode rod hole (I hadn't put the new rod in), and let it sit overnight.
No water added. That's what the vendor's web site said to do.

When I let that drain, it came a little dirty ('rusty'), so I flushed
with water - as in, run about 5 gal of water into the tank, then take
the draincock off and let it gush out into a bucket. This brought out
'some' (like, a cup or two) of white lumpy stuff. I'm guessing that the
vinegar is supposed to dissolve that.

So, I stuck a wooden dowel down the anode rod hole, and kind of stirred
up the bottom. It felt like it might be plowing through some sort of
sediment. I flushed that with water a few more times, and got out more
lumpy white stuff. The water was a little cloudy, but not 'rusty'.

Then, I did another vinegar flush, as above. After I flushed that with
water, it ran clean.


Has the rust gone away?

Yes - to my eye, the water is running clean. And, when I let it sit,
nothing settles out of it.

G