On Feb 13, 3:56 pm, "Pop`" wrote:
George wrote:
(7-yr old 40-gal gas heater)

Our hot water got suddenly very 'rusty' two days ago. Cold water is
clear. I flushed the tank several times, and it still comes out
dirty. The company says to replace the anode rod. The question is,
how?

It's threaded into the top of the tank. I've soaked around the head
with PB Blaster, but I doubt that's getting to the threads. Right
now, I'm using a 1/2" breaker bar with an extension pipe, and getting
nothing. I'm reluctant to use heat (acetylene), because, while the
insulation doesn't sustain combustion, it does sort of burn a little.

Any experience/suggestions would be appreciated. In particular, would
it be OK to use heat?

Thanks,
George

Keep pouring the Liquid Wrench to it, and tapping it gently all around the
connection. Do so periodically for a full day if you can. Let it set
overnight, tap it some more, and try to loosen it. The tapping helps the
oil penetrate into the rust. Careful of high heat (torch) when you've got
oil all over it.

Keep an eye on it whenever using an extender; you could twist the whole
thing loose. If you see the whole union move, stop!

Is that the pumbers union? Or maybe the electrical workers
untion? ? Last time I checked the freeking anode is just screwed
into the top of the freeking water heater tank, without any union.



If you can get wrenches onto it, one to loosen, the other to hold the base
still, then you could put a puller or clamp on it to squeeze them together
to loosen it. Watch out it doesn't break, though.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -