wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 06:05:31 -0500, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


Awl --

When I installed my Kenmore gas water heater over 10 years ago, I seem to
remember this big honking solid alum rod in the HW side. After replumbing
it, I discovered it ain't there no more..... just a long rusty iron
wire,
about 1/8" diam.

I don't imagine I did the heater any favors by letting the anode
disappear.
The Q is: how much damage? Proly depends on how long ago it dissolved
away. Any idears on how long they are supposed to last? I've never
heard
about replacing these on a maintenance basis.

Any idears on how important these anodes are, ito lifespan of the unit?

Is this a standard plumbing supply item? Or do I have to go back to
Sears?

This anode ditty fairly restricts the pipe diameter. Considering the
trouble I went to, to come as close to the heater with 1" brass, this
fairly
****es me off.... live and learn....
Well, at least I have 1" to tap off of, later on. Still.....

Those anodes are actually magnesium, not aluminum. They are made to be
eaten up by the electrolytic action in the water and dissimilar metals
in the system. The rate they are "eaten" depends on the metals in your
system as well as the acids and minerals in your water.

That makes sense. Which proly means a new anode is going to break the
effing bank.


Your water heater is probably one of 50 million of them in the US whose
rod has vanished. Most people never even know they exist. Few plumbers
check them.

However, to prolong your water heater, go ahead and get a new one.
You'll probably have to go to a plumbing supply store. You wont find
them at the corner hardware store or Home Depot. Sears may have them,
just ask.

Good to know. The less contact I have with HD the better.
Sears is no picnic either, but it is a Kenmore heater, so I've got a better
shot....


I dont understand the part where you're mentioning "come as close to the
heater with 1" brass". What's with that?

I'm anal about pressure drop. There was 1" brass that was plumbed down to
3/4 copper, which I replaced, and used 1" brass, until I reduced it down to
3/4 brass. Dopey me.... if you see how the anode is placed, I coulda come
in with 1/2", with no worry about pressure....

And is that really 1"? Unless you have a rather large heater, it's more
likely 3/4" NPT (National pipe thread).

----
I've always wondered what effect this dissolved magnesium has on our
health. Particularly people who use hot water from the tap to make
instant coffee and stuff, and I have met people who do that.
But I guess thats another topic!

Altho the DRI lists an "upper limit" for Mg, that simply reflects the dosage
at which some people get a laxative effect.
There is consderable opinion that the RDA for Mg is way too low (about 350
mg iirc), with some advocating 1,000+ mg -- in divided doses, cuz 1,000 mg
in one shot will send you to the throne.
One of the better laxative methods, btw.

The point being, if yer hot tea/coffee is not sending you to the throne, yer
not getting too much magnesium.
I supplement with 250-500 mg religiously, occasionally 750, 1,000 -- heh,
but only on weekends.... LOL

Mg is quite the miracle element -- extraordinary, in fact, used in ERs (as
IV) for acute asthma attacks and can be anti-asthmatic even in pill form,
will immediately lower blood pressure, and being a 2+ ion, apparently
competes with Ca2+ for oxalates (kidney stones), thereby virtually
eliminating the risk of kidney stones. I went from *chronic* kidney stones
to NEVER, after my Mg "therapy". effingamazing stuff....

Do NOT buy that ripoff magnesium called Calm.... total overpriced bull****,
50x the price of regular MgO from Puritan's Pride et al.

Heh, mebbe I should pour some Mg tablets in the water heater.... which
won't work, cuz you need elemental Mg in an anode, vites/minerals are ionic.
--
EA