On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:58:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor
Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock
would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Go to the hock shop and look for a Makita or Dewalt or other major brand.
Buy by color brightness. The more crisp and new the color, the better
shape. Also look at where the cord enters the body for a nice looking
cord.
Don't buy anything with a cracked protector there, as that is an indicator
of age. You should be able to get one for what you will pay for a HF
brand,
and have one that will last longer. The cutoff grinder will find
countless
other uses, might as well get a stringer brush and cup knot variety, too.
(Caution $20 per item)

If this was more than a one shot tool, I might take you up on that. The
units that they use on TV to cut storage lockers open is a pretty hefty tool
compared to the HF POS. But I think the $15 I spend on the HF tool and
cutoff wheels will do the job and possibly the next two locks I need to cut.
Since I haven't needed it for 25 years, I assume that I will be long dead
before I need it again. Hence the HF route.

I cut off a ton of these when I had my welding business. I had about six
storage places that would call, and I'd pop by and for $20 pop it off.
Paid
for lunch for me and my helper. I used an electric Makita 4" grinder.
Then
I bought the largest pair of bolt cutters I have ever seen, got it at a
police evidence auction. They are four feet long. Damn near a two man
operation, but it shortened a five minute job to a fifteen second job.
The
"hockey puck" locks were the same, and I used a Makita die tool with 14k
rpm
very thin disc. Not much room to get in there the way they have those
configured.

This lock's at an awful angle around a delicate object in an awful location
to get at. I will, in order, try the key again. Hit it with a hammer some,
try the key again, and again with a pair of Visegrips to hold the key. Then
I will try my battery Dremel with a small cutoff tool, then I will head to
HF to buy the angle grinder.

As for weatherproofing, I can't offer much there except to protect the
lock,
maybe make a little cover out of sheet metal. For a new one, I'd shop for
some brand name that has some weather resistant features. Tying a plastic
zip lock on there with a rubber band might help, but then it tends to
condense and rust.

I think most modern plastic bags are designed to degrade very quickly in
sunlight. I've tried that on some other things without much success. The
bag rots in very little time. I think a few dollops of silicone on the
shackle where it enters the lock and the key hole will protect the lock a
hell of a lot better than just leaving it naked. We'll see.

Good luck.

Thanks. I'll try to take some photos and report back on how the 2011 "hose
lock" problem resolves.
Just put a ball of axle grease on the whole lock. In 20 years it
might take a can of carb cleaner to get enough off to get the key in.

Or use cosmolene.

wrote

A framing gun makes all of those tricky toe nailing tricks a piece of
cake.

Nailing cripples in place is my favorite. The ones you can't hit very
straight on because of the adjoining stud and never get them straight or
flush.

Steve

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:18:45 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Air tools are smaller and lighter than electric tools. The power is
back at the compressor. You do need air where you want to use them
tho. I have air chucks all over the place and lots of hose.

One good thing if you are working around the water. Nobody got
electrocuted with an air tool.
And a lot less likely to ignite an explosive atmosphere.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:19:25 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

That would be my guess. Mine will go through 1/2" rebar.

Steve

rebar and hardened steel are two completely different materials

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:23:36 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


wrote

Air tools are addictive. Once you get a good compressor it is all you
want to use. Nail guns are a drug all of their own. I have 5 now,
from a big framing nailer down to a small brad gun.

Agreed. Now, just the minimal auto repair requires the 3/8 air ratchet.
And I would say cuts the work time in half. After you use a nailer or brad
gun, one suddenly develops an allergy to them. What you can do in one
fraction of one second with a nailer, and do it accurately is a drop of the
addictive potion.

Steve

The 45 year old CP impact and Snap-on air ratchet both came in handy
removing the battery bracket on the PT cruiser to get at the
transmission oil leak this morning. There is NOTHING that is easy to
reach, much less remove, under the hood of a PT.

On Sun, 27 Nov 2011 01:14:51 +0000 (UTC), Tegger
wrote:

"Robert Green" wrote in news:jarlvj$duu$2
:

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..


An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Arthritis says "NO" to hacksaw solution. I suspect it's cut-off disk or
nothing at this point.




Dremel. That was my /other/ solution. The one that everybody here
--bizarrely--totally ignored.

Dremel. That's spelled D-R-E-M-E-L. Cheap, versatile, and cuts through some
pretty hard steel. Including padlock hasps.

A quote from my original post: "...or Dremel will do just fine, althought
it may take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few [hasps] with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels."

Dremel.

Forget the hacksaw. Hacksaw was only /one/ of /two/ solutions I posted. The
Dremel was the other one. Dremel. Not hacksaw.

Dremel.

Dremel.

Got it? Do I need to say it again? I will anyway: Dremel. Not just hacksaw,
but Dremel.
You need the right cutoff wheel though - or about 2 dozen of the
wrong ones. You really need the fiber re-enforced ones.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:13:40 -0800 (PST), Evan
wrote:

On Nov 26, 4:58Â*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Â*Maybe the cutters used were too small.

Nope, sounds more like they cut so many locks with their cutters
that the edges of the jaws have become damaged and could not
develop the concentrated leverage at a fine enough point to actually
cut the metal -- this is why the jaws on a set of quality bolt cutters
are removable so they can be replaced without having to buy an
entire new tool...

~~ Evan
And even new jaws will have one heck of a time getting through a good
hardened shank

"ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote


I have yet to meet a padlock that didn't get cut, yes there are probably
some that wouldn't, but I doubt in this case this is one of them.
I use WD-40 for rust and water displacement, not a lube

I only tried it as a lube one time. I thought that woman would never quit
screaming.

Steve

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:56:38 -0800, "Malcom \"Mal\" Reynolds"
wrote:

In article ,
"Forrest" wrote:

I had a Master padlock on my garage that was in the same shape as yours. The
key would go in and turn but wouldn't open it. I tried every penetrating oil
I could find. I got the hack saw out and it was about as effective as a
butter knife. The hammer was next ... no go. I then took my propane torch to
it. After heating it up cherry red and letting it cool, the hack saw cut it
as easily as if it were aluminum.
After reading the description of your lock set-up I can see that high heat
is not an option but thought I would mention the torch bit for others in a
similar situation. Good luck

there is always dry ice
Which would DEFINITELY shatter the hose.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote

We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270

I'll take a pic of mine and post on flickr with a measuring tape next to it.

Steve

"Bill Gill" wrote

You're just not living right. I was out for a walk
one day and found one just lying there. It must have
fallen off of a truck. Now all I need is a rusty
pad lock.

Bill

I was out quail hunting once, and came upon a custom sewn canvas package
that had some unusual items in it. One was a short set of bolt cutters.
The other was some form of a T knife the configuration of which I have never
seen before. One part of it looked like a game gutting knife with the V and
a blade mounted in the V. We never were able to identify the tools except
for the bolt cutters, and too much time has lapsed now, and the rest of the
stuff has been deleted from my grey matter hard drive. It was obviously
high dollar government stuff that had bounced off the back of a truck, and
it was in a spot where there was no road, so assume it had been carried in.
It was a custom sewn compartmented canvas rollup bag, but no ID marks.

Steve

"Robert Green" wrote


Much more expensive than the angle grinder from HF! (-" It would be nice
to
have a better set than the one I have now, but I just want the damn lock
off
and the angle grinder seems to be the solution du jour.

--
Bobby G.

It is your answer, Bobby. Just get a decent one, because there are lots and
lots of uses, and you'll be surprised how much you will use it once you have
it. You can get a decent one at a pawn shop for what a HF one costs.

Steve

"G. Morgan" wrote in message
...
Robert Green wrote:

I've got a padlock

1. Big Lots has an angle grinder for $15, its pretty good.

2. Use a round 100% stainless for replacement,

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/M...99097/Cat/1378

or Titanium!

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/M...99020/Cat/1378


Ah, the old hockey puck locks. I cut many of those off storage lockers.
Good locks.

Steve

"Bill Gill" wrote


I expect that a decent bolt cutter would cost more than that.
So there is no doubt that the grinder is the better choice.
There's nothing like being forced to do what you want to do.

Bill

My four foot bolt cutter was only $10. At a police evidence auction.

Steve

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

You need the right cutoff wheel though - or about 2 dozen of the
wrong ones. You really need the fiber re-enforced ones.

And a face shield or at the very least, goggles. I assume the ones that
appear to have a window-screen like mesh pattern embedded in them are fiber
reinforced.

I've been recording "Storage Wars" on A&E all night, pausing to look at how
they cut locks. They even showed how easy it is to open a safe with an
angle grinder. Cut the hinges and crowbar the door out. The huge electric
jobs they use seem to open most locks within seconds.

--
Bobby G.

On 11/26/2011 11:24 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
You ever had a gun barrel you couldn't get off a hasp on a
gate? Then, you'd understand.


could just use the gun to remove the lock AND hasp.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

You need the right cutoff wheel though - or about 2 dozen of the
wrong ones. You really need the fiber re-enforced ones.

And a face shield or at the very least, goggles. I assume the ones
that appear to have a window-screen like mesh pattern embedded in
them are fiber reinforced.

I've been recording "Storage Wars" on A&E all night, pausing to look
at how they cut locks. They even showed how easy it is to open a
safe with an angle grinder. Cut the hinges and crowbar the door out.
The huge electric jobs they use seem to open most locks within
seconds.

Cutting the hinges off most safes will yield nothing as (most) safes have
pins that engage more than one side.

An easier way to open a safe, at least the low-priced fire safes, is to
attack the top with a hatchet or angle grinder. The safe is clad in 1/16"
steel which can be cut with an angle grinder or roofing hatchet. Below that
is a couple of inches of concrete, also easily (relatively) removed. Beyond
the concrete is another thing layer of metal. Get through that, and you're
in.

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:20:17 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby
whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two
in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a
balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

That's very funny. And I feel safer now.

Never know when you're going to out fishing and have a huge "20,000 Leagues
Under the Sea" type killer squid come for you.

--
Bobby G.

"Malcom "Mal" Reynolds" wrote in message
news:atlas-bugged-

stuff snipped

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby
whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two
in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a
balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

--
Bobby G.

so you are saying that oceanologists were unable to ascertain the age of
the
sucker mark by the state of the wound?

I'm only repeating what I've read, and yes, it does seem that it's hard to
ascertain the age of scar tissue on whales from just looking. This site has
an actual photograph of the sucker ring scars. It doesn't look easy to tell
from simple observation which scars are older than others.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_squid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:A_...cker_scars.JPG

This site:

http://invertebrates.si.edu/giant_squid/page2.html says:

Whales stranded on beaches and caught by whaling ships bear circular scars
inflicted by the powerful suckers of giant squid. Scientists have used the
size of the scars to estimate the size of the squid eaten by the whales.
Scars as large as 7.8 inches (20 cm) have been reported and some people
believe that it would take a 246-foot (75 m) squid to bear such a sucker!
Do not believe it! Scientists have noted that no fresh scars have been
measured larger than about 1.97 inches (5 cm), and no giant squid specimens
have been examined with suckers larger than 2.05 inches (5.2 cm). In fact,
the size of giant sucker scars increases as sperm whales grow. It is also
possible that ringworm, a fungal infection that grows in a circular pattern,
has been mistaken for old sucker scars. The current scientific conclusion
is that adult giant squid suckers are between 0.79-1.97 inches (2-5 cm) in
diameter, smaller on arms and largest on the tentacles. No credible reports
exist of suckers larger than this.

I'd guess the rumors got started by whalers a long time before researchers
where able to get close enough to carefully examine the scars. From what
the Wikipedia photo shows, it's probably not that easy to separate enlarged
scars from non-enlarged ones via simple visual inspection. It's a lesson in
"things aren't always as they seem."

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:20:17 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit
for a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the
building and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3
into the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant
squids that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found
with sucker mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led
oceanologists to believe they were attacked by giant squids.
Further study showed that baby
whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or
two
in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a
balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have
made them.

That's very funny. And I feel safer now.

Never know when you're going to out fishing and have a huge "20,000
Leagues Under the Sea" type killer squid come for you.

--
Bobby G.



It's worse than you think. I was just sitting here typing and next thing
you know one comes in one side of the screen room and walks out the
other.

OK, well this one is a tad smaller but it is a fishing related post.


http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/sideshow...150510810.html

wrote in message
...

Just put a ball of axle grease on the whole lock. In 20 years it
might take a can of carb cleaner to get enough off to get the key in.

Or use cosmolene.

Ah, the smell of "monkey ****" (and far worse names) is the smell of - - -
Army Surplus stores! All the cool stuff was packed in cosmoline. I still
have some stuff packed in it somewhere in the basement in brown paper - some
surplus files for very fine finishing (some just mm's wide) and what I
thought was an unending supply of mat cutter blades that's finally running
out that I bought at a framing store closeout along with an incredible
assortment of short lengths of incredibly nice framing that I've been making
into miniature frames with old family photos tinted brown for Christmas this
year. Of course, like all blind lots, I got some nice tomato stakes, too.

It's almost lock cutting time. Got two battery dremels, 3 battery packs,
two small cutoff wheels on mandrels, two large, reinforced ones. Goggles,
Visegrips, gun oil, WD-40 with a tiny red straw, a hammer, a cold chisel, a
screw-tipped dent puller, the "fell off a truck" bolt cutters -- I am not
sure I am going to even try - they cut enough other stuff that I don't want
to break them asking them to do the impossible. I am sure my Jack Russell
would try to take down a moose if I let her, but she's not going to come out
well. I think the same might happen to 50 year old cutters that might have
been 50 years old when they fell off that truck.

The next lock gets a glob of silicone goo on the keyway and around the
shackle holes in the lock body. It will keep water out, won't harden and
fall out and yet should peel right off when I need to exercise the lock.

--
Bobby G.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
:


"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:




Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle
grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:


We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270


At work I have used a similar Bolt cutter. Works fine on most locks.
There is one lock I ran across that was hardened and it would not cut
it. A very stout fellow at work tried and all it did was put a chip
in the jaw of the bolt cutter. We needed to get in so cut the hasp
the bolt went through.




if you have one,a Dremel MotoTool and an abrasive cutoff disc will cut it.

or visit Harbor Freight and get an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

In article ,
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:56:38 -0800, "Malcom \"Mal\" Reynolds"
wrote:

In article ,
"Forrest" wrote:

I had a Master padlock on my garage that was in the same shape as yours.
The key would go in and turn but wouldn't open it. I tried every
penetrating oil I could find. I got the hack saw out and it was about as
effective as a butter knife. The hammer was next ... no go. I then took my
propane torch to it. After heating it up cherry red and letting it cool,
the hack saw cut it as easily as if it were aluminum. After reading the
description of your lock set-up I can see that high heat is not an option
but thought I would mention the torch bit for others in a similar
situation. Good luck

there is always dry ice
Which would DEFINITELY shatter the hose.

I wonder if running water thru the hose would prevent that. Or just careful
placement of the dry ice

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Nov 2011 05:36:08 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

You need the right cutoff wheel though - or about 2 dozen of the
wrong ones. You really need the fiber re-enforced ones.

And a face shield or at the very least, goggles. I assume the ones
that appear to have a window-screen like mesh pattern embedded in
them are fiber reinforced.

I've been recording "Storage Wars" on A&E all night, pausing to look
at how they cut locks. They even showed how easy it is to open a
safe with an angle grinder. Cut the hinges and crowbar the door out.
The huge electric jobs they use seem to open most locks within
seconds.

Cutting the hinges off most safes will yield nothing as (most) safes have
pins that engage more than one side.

An easier way to open a safe, at least the low-priced fire safes, is to
attack the top with a hatchet or angle grinder. The safe is clad in 1/16"
steel which can be cut with an angle grinder or roofing hatchet. Below
that
is a couple of inches of concrete, also easily (relatively) removed.
Beyond
the concrete is another thing layer of metal. Get through that, and you're
in.


When you watch a 14" diamond blade in a cut off saw go through stuff
it makes you wonder what would stop it.
The guys cutting up the old concrete and steel in a slab I had removed
made bite sized chunks of 6" of concrete and #5 rebar in a short time.
The steel is tough on the diamond blade but it eats it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV4r7OKkXmU

How real men cut steel and concrete.

Steve

"Robert Green" wrote


Never know when you're going to out fishing and have a huge "20,000
Leagues
Under the Sea" type killer squid come for you.

--
Bobby G.

Seems to me that they have proven the old stories of giant squid.
Definitely of a size that could easily take a man. Then there's the old
Kraken stories.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .

"Robert Green" wrote


Never know when you're going to out fishing and have a huge "20,000
Leagues
Under the Sea" type killer squid come for you.

--
Bobby G.

Seems to me that they have proven the old stories of giant squid.
Definitely of a size that could easily take a man. Then there's the old
Kraken stories.

The sucker mark "projections" put the size of giant squids in the 100's of
feet. While lots of pretty big squid have been found (2 tons and 50' long
and larger) they have not yet found squid as big as a sperm whale, which is
what the "stretched" sucker marks indicated. That's not saying they don't
exist - they hang out in very deep waters and are generally quite shy - just
that they're as yet undiscovered. Apparently they hang out near New Zealand
and Japan, where they regularly appear in deep nets meant to snare orange
roughies. Two tons is big enough in my book and more than large enough to
be a mankiller. (-:

--
Bobby G.

Measured my bolt cutters today. 42". MCO stamped, model 1050 (or second
stamp) made in USA. Jaws in great shape.

Steve

In article ,
"Robert Green" wrote:

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .

"Robert Green" wrote


Never know when you're going to out fishing and have a huge "20,000
Leagues
Under the Sea" type killer squid come for you.

--
Bobby G.

Seems to me that they have proven the old stories of giant squid.
Definitely of a size that could easily take a man. Then there's the old
Kraken stories.

The sucker mark "projections" put the size of giant squids in the 100's of
feet. While lots of pretty big squid have been found (2 tons and 50' long
and larger) they have not yet found squid as big as a sperm whale, which is
what the "stretched" sucker marks indicated. That's not saying they don't
exist - they hang out in very deep waters and are generally quite shy - just
that they're as yet undiscovered. Apparently they hang out near New Zealand
and Japan, where they regularly appear in deep nets meant to snare orange
roughies. Two tons is big enough in my book and more than large enough to
be a mankiller. (-:

--
Bobby G.

of course so much is known about giant squid that we can be assured that they
must grow at an expected rate...I mean some species grow certain parts of their
bodies at different rates at different times in their lives

On Sun, 27 Nov 2011 08:40:46 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Malcom "Mal" Reynolds" wrote in message
news:atlas-bugged-

stuff snipped

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby
whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two
in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a
balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

--
Bobby G.

so you are saying that oceanologists were unable to ascertain the age of
the
sucker mark by the state of the wound?

I'm only repeating what I've read, and yes, it does seem that it's hard to
ascertain the age of scar tissue on whales from just looking. This site has
an actual photograph of the sucker ring scars. It doesn't look easy to tell
from simple observation which scars are older than others.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_squid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:A_...cker_scars.JPG

Wow. When they overlap they look like baseballs.

This site:

http://invertebrates.si.edu/giant_squid/page2.html says:

Whales stranded on beaches and caught by whaling ships bear circular scars
inflicted by the powerful suckers of giant squid. Scientists have used the
size of the scars to estimate the size of the squid eaten by the whales.
Scars as large as 7.8 inches (20 cm) have been reported and some people
believe that it would take a 246-foot (75 m) squid to bear such a sucker!
Do not believe it! Scientists have noted that no fresh scars have been
measured larger than about 1.97 inches (5 cm), and no giant squid specimens
have been examined with suckers larger than 2.05 inches (5.2 cm). In fact,
the size of giant sucker scars increases as sperm whales grow. It is also
possible that ringworm, a fungal infection that grows in a circular pattern,
has been mistaken for old sucker scars. The current scientific conclusion
is that adult giant squid suckers are between 0.79-1.97 inches (2-5 cm) in
diameter, smaller on arms and largest on the tentacles.

So there is a difference between arms and tentacles? Are one
equivalent to arms and the other to legs? Or front legs and hind
legs?

No credible reports
exist of suckers larger than this.

I'd guess the rumors got started by whalers a long time before researchers
where able to get close enough to carefully examine the scars. From wha

I have scars that didn't change for years and if I'd been growing, I
doubt anyone could have told how old they were or how big they were
originally, since they didn't know how long ago I got them.

I have a scar on my cheek from a toasted marshmallow that grew as I
got bigger, even though most children's scars get smaller.
Oceanologist can't know everything, including details of scar age.
t
the Wikipedia photo shows, it's probably not that easy to separate enlarged
scars from non-enlarged ones via simple visual inspection. It's a lesson in
"things aren't always as they seem."

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:18:45 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Air tools are smaller and lighter than electric tools. The power is
back at the compressor. You do need air where you want to use them
tho. I have air chucks all over the place and lots of hose.

One good thing if you are working around the water. Nobody got
electrocuted with an air tool.

But if you're not careful, you can get inflated.

That's the origin of inflation.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:19:06 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .

stuff snipped

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

How can I tell which I have?

If the key is corrugated, the lock is cheap!

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.

On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd
like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.

Like I said, it's eaten everything I've fed it. If I ran across a hard
case, I would pull out the hand grinder or smoke wrench.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd
like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

Yes, it definitely cuts hardened chains. Those be the ones with the slight
discoloration of a greenish yellow shiny tint, right?

Steve

On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:28:53 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd
like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

Yes, it definitely cuts hardened chains. Those be the ones with the slight
discoloration of a greenish yellow shiny tint, right?

Steve

not necessarily

On 11/28/2011 08:33 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:28:53 -0800, "Steve
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500,
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd
like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

Yes, it definitely cuts hardened chains. Those be the ones with the slight
discoloration of a greenish yellow shiny tint, right?

Steve

not necessarily

greenish yellow tint says to me cadmium plating, not necessarily an
indication of any hardening process...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 15:54:13 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long. I'd like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

You're right. Them too.

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 11/28/2011 08:33 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:28:53 -0800, "Steve
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Mon, 28 Nov 2011 01:22:28 -0500,
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 21:00:09 -0800, "Steve
wrote:



A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

Huh? I have a pair of bolt cutters that is about four feet long.
I'd
like
to see something it can't cut, so long as it can get it half way into
its
jaws. Maybe there is some exotic metal, but it has yet to fail to
cut
whatever I can get in it.

Steve

But have you used it on a hardened steel shackle by a quality
manufacturer? The only place I see hardened steel that anyone would
need to cut is on locks.
And chains

Yes, it definitely cuts hardened chains. Those be the ones with the
slight
discoloration of a greenish yellow shiny tint, right?

Steve

not necessarily

greenish yellow tint says to me cadmium plating, not necessarily an
indication of any hardening process...

nate

I went to the trailer store last week to buy the necessary items to put
safety chains on a friend's trailer. In the bucket were 25' lengths of
hardened chain. They were some off color, not chrome, not black. I just
tried to describe the color I saw. But the man DID say they were hardened.
I would say that man knew what he was talking about. The bolt cutters cut
it with no problem.

Steve