I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&biw=1920&bih=1037&source=hp&q=weatherproo f+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock&aq=f&aqi=g 1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf .osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263



--
Tegger

Tegger wrote in
:

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...=1037&source=h
p&q=weatherproof+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+pad lock&aq=f&aqi=g1g-c1g
1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.
1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=7d415bf7fa c0a263

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..


An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Arthritis says "NO" to hacksaw solution. I suspect it's cut-off disk or
nothing at this point.

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in news:jarlvj$duu$2
@speranza.aioe.org:

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..


An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Arthritis says "NO" to hacksaw solution. I suspect it's cut-off disk or
nothing at this point.




Dremel. That was my /other/ solution. The one that everybody here
--bizarrely--totally ignored.

Dremel. That's spelled D-R-E-M-E-L. Cheap, versatile, and cuts through some
pretty hard steel. Including padlock hasps.

A quote from my original post: "...or Dremel will do just fine, althought
it may take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few [hasps] with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels."

Dremel.

Forget the hacksaw. Hacksaw was only /one/ of /two/ solutions I posted. The
Dremel was the other one. Dremel. Not hacksaw.

Dremel.

Dremel.

Got it? Do I need to say it again? I will anyway: Dremel. Not just hacksaw,
but Dremel.


--
Tegger

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

--
Bobby G.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:20:17 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

That's very funny. And I feel safer now.

In article ,
"Robert Green" wrote:

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

I don't know why, but this reminds me of how the stories of giant squids
that were 100's of feet long got started. Whales were found with sucker
mark scars nearly a foot in diameter, which led oceanologists to believe
they were attacked by giant squids. Further study showed that baby whales
often get attacked by large squid that leave sucker marks an inch or two in
diameter. As the whales grew, the marks enlarged like writing on a balloon,
until they appeared to be so large only a colossal squid could have made
them.

--
Bobby G.

so you are saying that oceanologists were unable to ascertain the age of the
sucker mark by the state of the wound?

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

That would be my guess. Mine will go through 1/2" rebar.

Steve

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:19:25 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

That would be my guess. Mine will go through 1/2" rebar.

Steve


Rebar is not hardened. Much softer than a good shackle.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:19:25 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Maybe the cutters used were too small.

That would be my guess. Mine will go through 1/2" rebar.

Steve

rebar and hardened steel are two completely different materials

On Nov 26, 4:58*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. *Maybe the cutters used were too small.

Nope, sounds more like they cut so many locks with their cutters
that the edges of the jaws have become damaged and could not
develop the concentrated leverage at a fine enough point to actually
cut the metal -- this is why the jaws on a set of quality bolt cutters
are removable so they can be replaced without having to buy an
entire new tool...

~~ Evan

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:13:40 -0800 (PST), Evan
wrote:

On Nov 26, 4:58*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. *Maybe the cutters used were too small.

Nope, sounds more like they cut so many locks with their cutters
that the edges of the jaws have become damaged and could not
develop the concentrated leverage at a fine enough point to actually
cut the metal -- this is why the jaws on a set of quality bolt cutters
are removable so they can be replaced without having to buy an
entire new tool...

~~ Evan

You could be right. How many crooks carry replacement jaws/ blades for
a set of bolt cutters?

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:13:40 -0800 (PST), Evan
wrote:

On Nov 26, 4:58Â*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 02:21:28 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

I still have a Master padlock from years ago. I had a storage unit for
a awhile. Crooks cut off all the locks along one side of the building
and stole property.

My lock has jaw marks, but bolt cutters never got more than 1/3 into
the shackle. Â*Maybe the cutters used were too small.

Nope, sounds more like they cut so many locks with their cutters
that the edges of the jaws have become damaged and could not
develop the concentrated leverage at a fine enough point to actually
cut the metal -- this is why the jaws on a set of quality bolt cutters
are removable so they can be replaced without having to buy an
entire new tool...

~~ Evan
And even new jaws will have one heck of a time getting through a good
hardened shank

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 01:07:31 +0000 (UTC), Tegger
wrote:

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&biw=1920&bih=1037&source=hp&q=weatherproo f+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock&aq=f&aqi=g 1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf .osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263
There are a LOT of (good) padlocks out there that will just take the
teeth off a hacksaw - but a good cutoff wheel on a 4" angle grinder
will take them off. (some might take the better part of a wheel
though)

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

There are a LOT of (good) padlocks out there that will just take the
teeth off a hacksaw - but a good cutoff wheel on a 4" angle grinder
will take them off. (some might take the better part of a wheel
though)

I'm not going to be hacksawing with my arthritis. )-: I expect the
operation to cost a cut-off disk - or two - especially since I'm not as
steady holding things as I used to be. It sounds like a $10 on sale angle
grinder and a pack of wheels might do the trick. I am going to try some
more primitive methods first - drowing it in more oil through the keyhole
(the WD40 did loosen things enough to allow for key entry, but not turning).

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

"Tegger" wrote in message

stuff snipped

An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.

Almost impossible to get to with a hacksaw comfortably. I might chuck up
one of the larger cutoff wheels from my zillion piece Dremel kit into a
regular-sized drill and see what that gets me. The RPM is probably going to
be too low to work fast enough.

Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...&source=hp&q=w
eatherproof+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock& aq=f&aqi=g1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=
&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l0l3l228 l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2
,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263

I am pretty sure this one was billed as at least weather resistant but it's
been out there for 20 years so I supposed failure was inevitable.

--
Bobby G.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:01:35 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.

Almost impossible to get to with a hacksaw comfortably. I might chuck up
one of the larger cutoff wheels from my zillion piece Dremel kit into a
regular-sized drill and see what that gets me. The RPM is probably going to
be too low to work fast enough.

What about drilling the key way barrel out the lock.... so many ways
to get the lock off...

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:01:35 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.

Almost impossible to get to with a hacksaw comfortably. I might chuck up
one of the larger cutoff wheels from my zillion piece Dremel kit into a
regular-sized drill and see what that gets me. The RPM is probably going
to
be too low to work fast enough.

What about drilling the key way barrel out the lock.... so many ways
to get the lock off...

It's coming off. It's just a question of how. I could go with the
technique used in so many movies. Just take out my .40 cal and blast it
off. Just for once, I'd like to see the friend of the guy with the gun go
down dead from a ricochet - the real life version of shooting off locks with
a pistol.

--
Bobby G.

On 11/25/2011 7:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.


If you have AC power within reach, go with the angle grinder with a cut
off wheel, it will have 100 times the torque of an air powered one from
harbor freight and will cut through the lock like butter.

"Tony Miklos" wrote in message
...
On 11/25/2011 7:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor
Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock
would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is
unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff
tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6"
angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would
cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this
job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.


If you have AC power within reach, go with the angle grinder with a cut
off wheel, it will have 100 times the torque of an air powered one from
harbor freight and will cut through the lock like butter.

It's easier for me to drag an extension cord than the air compressor out
there so I am heavily leaning toward the angle-grinder solution. I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Mechanics

"Robert Green" wrote

It's easier for me to drag an extension cord than the air compressor out
there so I am heavily leaning toward the angle-grinder solution. I've
never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Thanks for your input!

They do the "work" for you?

Just a guess.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Air tools are smaller and lighter than electric tools. The power is
back at the compressor. You do need air where you want to use them
tho. I have air chucks all over the place and lots of hose.

One good thing if you are working around the water. Nobody got
electrocuted with an air tool.

That makes sense. I suppose if you've got air compressors in the shop to
begin with, they aren't much of a hassle. It probably makes a real
difference in tools that you have to hold all day, like roofing nailers,
because they are lighter.

--
Bobby G.

wrote

Air tools are addictive. Once you get a good compressor it is all you
want to use. Nail guns are a drug all of their own. I have 5 now,
from a big framing nailer down to a small brad gun.

Agreed. Now, just the minimal auto repair requires the 3/8 air ratchet.
And I would say cuts the work time in half. After you use a nailer or brad
gun, one suddenly develops an allergy to them. What you can do in one
fraction of one second with a nailer, and do it accurately is a drop of the
addictive potion.

Steve

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:23:36 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


wrote

Air tools are addictive. Once you get a good compressor it is all you
want to use. Nail guns are a drug all of their own. I have 5 now,
from a big framing nailer down to a small brad gun.

Agreed. Now, just the minimal auto repair requires the 3/8 air ratchet.
And I would say cuts the work time in half. After you use a nailer or brad
gun, one suddenly develops an allergy to them. What you can do in one
fraction of one second with a nailer, and do it accurately is a drop of the
addictive potion.

Steve

The 45 year old CP impact and Snap-on air ratchet both came in handy
removing the battery bracket on the PT cruiser to get at the
transmission oil leak this morning. There is NOTHING that is easy to
reach, much less remove, under the hood of a PT.

wrote

A framing gun makes all of those tricky toe nailing tricks a piece of
cake.

Nailing cripples in place is my favorite. The ones you can't hit very
straight on because of the adjoining stud and never get them straight or
flush.

Steve

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:18:45 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Air tools are smaller and lighter than electric tools. The power is
back at the compressor. You do need air where you want to use them
tho. I have air chucks all over the place and lots of hose.

One good thing if you are working around the water. Nobody got
electrocuted with an air tool.
And a lot less likely to ignite an explosive atmosphere.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 17:18:45 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:07:31 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Air tools are smaller and lighter than electric tools. The power is
back at the compressor. You do need air where you want to use them
tho. I have air chucks all over the place and lots of hose.

One good thing if you are working around the water. Nobody got
electrocuted with an air tool.

But if you're not careful, you can get inflated.

That's the origin of inflation.

On Nov 25, 4:34*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. *The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. *I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. *Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. *Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. *Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. *(-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. *HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. *An electric tool would be
better. *I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. *It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? *Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.

Any 4-1/2" grinder with a thin (~1/8" or less) abrasive wheel will
make short work of any pad lock or hasp
and generate the least amount of sparks and debris.

A "plug-in Dremel" with those thin cutoff wheels will also do the job.

Never used a battery powered Dremel but those thin (1/16"?) cutoff
wheels remove
such a small amount of material that the total energy required might
keep the job within a single battery cycle.

Unless you really want to buy a POS HF angle grinder, I'd suggest
giving your Dremel a try.

Tegger's suggestion of a water proof lock is your best bet for a
replacment.

cheers
Bob

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Any 4-1/2" grinder with a thin (~1/8" or less) abrasive wheel will
make short work of any pad lock or hasp
and generate the least amount of sparks and debris.

I looked again at them clipping locks on "Storage Wars" and they seem to use
about a 1/3 horse electric motor (just estimating from the size of the tool)
with about an 8 or 9" blade. While I really have no particular use for a
tool of that size, I am hoping that the HF ten dollar grinder (half price
sale!) will last long enough to at least grind open this one lock.

A "plug-in Dremel" with those thin cutoff wheels will also do the job.

Santa's bringing me one, but I can't wait that long.

Never used a battery powered Dremel but those thin (1/16"?) cutoff
wheels remove such a small amount of material that the total energy required
might
keep the job within a single battery cycle.

I suppose that should be my first line of attack since I have the tools and
dozens of cut-off wheels. I think I will try that before buying the grinder
since I already have more tools than I have storage space for them.

Unless you really want to buy a POS HF angle grinder, I'd suggest giving
your Dremel a try.

I am ambivalent about yet another POS HF tool. I'm charging the Dremel now
to see what happens. If it only nicks the hasp in 30 or so seconds, I
suppose I'll have to make the trek to HF. They have a pump on sale that's
proved useful before and some other crap I need, so I'd be going there
anyway . . .

--
Bobby G.

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:13:57 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I think I will try that before buying the grinder
since I already have more tools than I have storage space for them.

Pussie

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:13:57 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I think I will try that before buying the grinder
since I already have more tools than I have storage space for them.

Pussie

Is that you, Ms. Galore? I knew your sister, Lotta Cun+.

(-:

--
Bobby G.

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted
an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, "ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted
an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.
A good padlock will stand up to weather even without WD40 - while many
cheap ones would need to be bathed in the stuff to last a year
outside.
Buy a good rustproof padlock with a hardened shank and a weather cover
to replace it. A shot of "lock ease" every once in a while to keep the
innards working freely makes it a lot less hassle. A whole lot better
for any lock than WD40. It is a colloidal graphite concoction made
specifically for that purpose.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, "ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't
turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the
appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body,
looks like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried
penetrating oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet.
Saving the lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as
I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version,
but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.
A good padlock will stand up to weather even without WD40 - while
many
cheap ones would need to be bathed in the stuff to last a year
outside.
Buy a good rustproof padlock with a hardened shank and a weather
cover
to replace it. A shot of "lock ease" every once in a while to keep
the
innards working freely makes it a lot less hassle. A whole lot better
for any lock than WD40. It is a colloidal graphite concoction made
specifically for that purpose.

I have yet to meet a padlock that didn't get cut, yes there are
probably some that wouldn't, but I doubt in this case this is one of
them.
I use WD-40 for rust and water displacement, not a lube

"ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote


I have yet to meet a padlock that didn't get cut, yes there are probably
some that wouldn't, but I doubt in this case this is one of them.
I use WD-40 for rust and water displacement, not a lube

I only tried it as a lube one time. I thought that woman would never quit
screaming.

Steve

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.

How can I tell which I have?

A good padlock will stand up to weather even without WD40 - while many
cheap ones would need to be bathed in the stuff to last a year
outside.
Buy a good rustproof padlock with a hardened shank and a weather cover
to replace it. A shot of "lock ease" every once in a while to keep the
innards working freely makes it a lot less hassle. A whole lot better
for any lock than WD40. It is a colloidal graphite concoction made
specifically for that purpose.

It seems, from what I could tell of the rust marks, that water entered the
lock through the shackle hole. Most weatherproof locks I've seen don't seem
to have any waterproof collar (externally, at least) to prevent water from
coming in along the shackle shaft.

I'll be on the lookout for Lockease.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.