I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&biw=1920&bih=1037&source=hp&q=weatherproo f+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock&aq=f&aqi=g 1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf .osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263



--
Tegger

On 11/25/2011 7:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.


If you have AC power within reach, go with the angle grinder with a cut
off wheel, it will have 100 times the torque of an air powered one from
harbor freight and will cut through the lock like butter.

On Nov 25, 4:34*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. *The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. *I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. *Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. *Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. *Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. *(-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. *HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. *An electric tool would be
better. *I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. *It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? *Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.

Any 4-1/2" grinder with a thin (~1/8" or less) abrasive wheel will
make short work of any pad lock or hasp
and generate the least amount of sparks and debris.

A "plug-in Dremel" with those thin cutoff wheels will also do the job.

Never used a battery powered Dremel but those thin (1/16"?) cutoff
wheels remove
such a small amount of material that the total energy required might
keep the job within a single battery cycle.

Unless you really want to buy a POS HF angle grinder, I'd suggest
giving your Dremel a try.

Tegger's suggestion of a water proof lock is your best bet for a
replacment.

cheers
Bob

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted
an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

Tegger wrote in
:

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...=1037&source=h
p&q=weatherproof+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+pad lock&aq=f&aqi=g1g-c1g
1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.
1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=7d415bf7fa c0a263

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 01:07:31 +0000 (UTC), Tegger
wrote:

"Robert Green" wrote in
:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.



An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.


Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&biw=1920&bih=1037&source=hp&q=weatherproo f+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock&aq=f&aqi=g 1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l 0l3l228l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf .osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263
There are a LOT of (good) padlocks out there that will just take the
teeth off a hacksaw - but a good cutoff wheel on a 4" angle grinder
will take them off. (some might take the better part of a wheel
though)

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, "ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted
an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.
A good padlock will stand up to weather even without WD40 - while many
cheap ones would need to be bathed in the stuff to last a year
outside.
Buy a good rustproof padlock with a hardened shank and a weather cover
to replace it. A shot of "lock ease" every once in a while to keep the
innards working freely makes it a lot less hassle. A whole lot better
for any lock than WD40. It is a colloidal graphite concoction made
specifically for that purpose.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:




Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:


We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270

On 11/25/2011 4:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.



about 10 seconds with a cutting torch. That's how I'd do it.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Ed Pawlowski writes:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:


Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:


We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270

Not fair!

I want one, but I don't have a rusted pad lock...

--
Dan Espen

Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.


If you have a standard rotary "skill" saw, a $2 metal abrasive cutoff blade in
it will do the job. Or, at least try the dremel ith the appropriate abrasive
blade.

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating
oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the
lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted
an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up the junk inside,
but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to work the best.

Robert Green wrote:

I've got a padlock

1. Big Lots has an angle grinder for $15, its pretty good.

2. Use a round 100% stainless for replacement,

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/M...99097/Cat/1378

or Titanium!

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/M...99020/Cat/1378

--

"I don't like to discriminate against terrorists based on nationality.
If you declare war on the United States and you want to kill us,
We're going to kill you first, period."

October 19, 2011 - Ali Soufan (Colbert Report)

In article ,
"Robert Green" wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.

How To Pick A Master Lock With A Coke Can
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipMi6ryESqk

How to pick lock a padlock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5trcVcik0A

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot.

You're gettting there. Maybe just more wd-40 or liquid wrench. Then
hit it several times to help the capillary action along.

I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key.

it was I think a moderate to cheap lock, but it wasn't small, and itt
had a brass key and maybe a hardened shackle, and I just hit it with a
hammer, Took 3 tries until I actually hit it, but it opened on the
first whack. .

Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

My friend runs a ministorage. She uses an angle grinder.

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

Don't they sell them with rubber covers, over teh whole thing but the
shackle?

Hey, wait! I thought WD-40 was a lubricant? My entire
family, back to Aristotle, and Moses, use WD-40 as a
lubricant.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Michael Dobony" wrote in
message .. .

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up the
junk inside,
but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to work the
best.

I'm amazed, how people are busy dispensing advice that might
be used by burglars.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Malcom "Mal" Reynolds" wrote
in message
...

How To Pick A Master Lock With A Coke Can
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipMi6ryESqk

How to pick lock a padlock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5trcVcik0A

On 11/25/2011 9:58 PM, wrote:
Ed writes:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:


Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:


We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270

Not fair!

I want one, but I don't have a rusted pad lock...

You're just not living right. I was out for a walk
one day and found one just lying there. It must have
fallen off of a truck. Now all I need is a rusty
pad lock.

Bill

On 11/25/2011 6:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on "Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6" angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.


Probably too late and it isn't what you want to hear.
I know about that angle grinder that is calling your name, I
have had the same sort of thing happen to me.

But, the bolt cutter will probably work. If it won't cut
the lock then you can always cut the hasp it is locked
through, then replace the hasp.

Bill

Bill Gill writes:

On 11/25/2011 9:58 PM, wrote:
Ed writes:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:


Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool
for a while. (-:


We use this master key at work. It has never failed to open a lock
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/36-Bolt-Cutters/H6270

Not fair!

I want one, but I don't have a rusted pad lock...

You're just not living right. I was out for a walk
one day and found one just lying there. It must have
fallen off of a truck. Now all I need is a rusty
pad lock.

You think the truck might be back?

Yeah, I'm trying to figure if there's any other job
this tool might do? My toenails don't get that tough.

--
Dan Espen

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't
turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the
appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body,
looks like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried
penetrating oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet.
Saving the lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as
I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version,
but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up the junk
inside, but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to work the best.

I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove rust and
displace water

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, "ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't
turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the
appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body,
looks like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried
penetrating oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet.
Saving the lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as
I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version,
but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

A cheap padlock will yeild to a bolt cutter. A good one will just
laugh at it.
A good padlock will stand up to weather even without WD40 - while
many
cheap ones would need to be bathed in the stuff to last a year
outside.
Buy a good rustproof padlock with a hardened shank and a weather
cover
to replace it. A shot of "lock ease" every once in a while to keep
the
innards working freely makes it a lot less hassle. A whole lot better
for any lock than WD40. It is a colloidal graphite concoction made
specifically for that purpose.

I have yet to meet a padlock that didn't get cut, yes there are
probably some that wouldn't, but I doubt in this case this is one of
them.
I use WD-40 for rust and water displacement, not a lube

On 11/26/2011 1:36 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 11/26/2011 5:54 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Hey, wait! I thought WD-40 was a lubricant? My entire
family, back to Aristotle, and Moses, use WD-40 as a
lubricant.


Nope, it's basically kerosene. Not a lubricant. A water displacer.
Formula #40. Took 'em 40 tries just to get that right. If they had a
lubricant, it would probably be WD-698.

According to Wired Magazine a couple of years ago one
of the main ingredients of WD-40 is mineral oil, a
lubricant. There are other things to take care of
water and as a dispersant.

Bill

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 11:29:31 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't
turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to
Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to
remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and the
appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body,
looks like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried
penetrating oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet.
Saving the lock is unimportant so cutting is a good alternative as
I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version,
but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would
be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the
lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up the junk
inside, but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to work the best.

I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove rust and
displace water

It will also cause gun barrels to rust.

On 11/26/2011 11:45 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
....

According to Wired Magazine a couple of years ago one
of the main ingredients of WD-40 is mineral oil, a
lubricant. There are other things to take care of
water and as a dispersant.
....

That's not quite correct according to the MSDS. The primary ingredient
is Stoddard solvent (70% or so, precise values not given) which is
similar to, but a lighter fraction than kerosene.

The second ingredient listed is a (very) light oil 15% or so that is the
same CAS as Fisher Scientific pump oil

http://fscimage.fishersci.com/msds/11406.htm

So, it's a case of "all of the above" -- it has some lubricating
properties but wasn't developed for the primary purpose of lubrication.

--

On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 11:29:31 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:33:21 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't
turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter
the lock) and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading
off to Harbor Freight this weekend, so I was thinking that the
best way to remove the lock would be to buy an angle grinder and
the appropriate
cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips
or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body,
looks like chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried
penetrating oil, hammer bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling
yet. Saving the lock is unimportant so cutting is a good
alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff tool for a
while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter
on "Storage Wars" and it looks like they are using an
electrically
powered 5 or 6" angle grinder. HF sells an air powered version,
but
I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool
would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think
it
would cut through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a
tool for this job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of
the lock?

--
Bobby G.

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up the junk
inside, but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to work the
best.

I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove rust and
displace water

It will also cause gun barrels to rust.

Again, we are not talking about gun barrels, we are talking about locks
apples-oranges

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I'm amazed, how people are busy dispensing advice that might
be used by burglars.

as if burglars couldn't find the info themselves

or

I'm amazed at how people support the willy-nilly allowance of guns when they
might be used by criminals

Ah, next thing you know. You'll be telling us that WD-40
helps remove stickers from glass?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Michael Dobony" wrote in
message ...
On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 11:29:31 -0600, ChairMan wrote:

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up
the junk
inside, but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to
work the best.

I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove
rust and
displace water

It will also cause gun barrels to rust.

Subject: Young's Law of Usenet
Date: Monday, December 13, 2010 8:55 PM

Is WD a lubricant, or....

Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
evoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not
complete until someone explains what the letters
abbrev. for. Points are earned by quoting usenet
posters of old, Aristotle, or your own personal
experiences with WD-40. Web pages abound, and
are on topic for the debate. Regardless of how
worthy an argument is, no one is allowed to change
sides. The debate must continue to eternity.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..




"Michael Dobony" wrote in
message ...

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not bad for loosening up
the junk
inside, but dries out quickly. I have found gun oil to
work the best.

I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove
rust and
displace water

It will also cause gun barrels to rust.

You ever had a gun barrel you couldn't get off a hasp on a
gate? Then, you'd understand.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote in message
om...


I never said to use it as a lube. It will however remove
rust and
displace water

It will also cause gun barrels to rust.

Again, we are not talking about gun barrels, we are talking
about locks
apples-oranges

On 11/26/2011 5:54 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Hey, wait! I thought WD-40 was a lubricant? My entire
family, back to Aristotle, and Moses, use WD-40 as a
lubricant.


Nope, it's basically kerosene. Not a lubricant. A water displacer.
Formula #40. Took 'em 40 tries just to get that right. If they had a
lubricant, it would probably be WD-698.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Steve

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor
Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Go to the hock shop and look for a Makita or Dewalt or other major brand.
Buy by color brightness. The more crisp and new the color, the better
shape. Also look at where the cord enters the body for a nice looking cord.
Don't buy anything with a cracked protector there, as that is an indicator
of age. You should be able to get one for what you will pay for a HF brand,
and have one that will last longer. The cutoff grinder will find countless
other uses, might as well get a stringer brush and cup knot variety, too.
(Caution $20 per item)

I cut off a ton of these when I had my welding business. I had about six
storage places that would call, and I'd pop by and for $20 pop it off. Paid
for lunch for me and my helper. I used an electric Makita 4" grinder. Then
I bought the largest pair of bolt cutters I have ever seen, got it at a
police evidence auction. They are four feet long. Damn near a two man
operation, but it shortened a five minute job to a fifteen second job. The
"hockey puck" locks were the same, and I used a Makita die tool with 14k rpm
very thin disc. Not much room to get in there the way they have those
configured.

As for weatherproofing, I can't offer much there except to protect the lock,
maybe make a little cover out of sheet metal. For a new one, I'd shop for
some brand name that has some weather resistant features. Tying a plastic
zip lock on there with a rubber band might help, but then it tends to
condense and rust.

Good luck.

Steve

"Tegger" wrote in message

stuff snipped

An ordinary hacksaw or Dremel will do just fine, althought it may
take you a few minutes to cut through the hasp. I've cut through
a few with my Dremel and the heavy-duty (gray cap) wheels.

Almost impossible to get to with a hacksaw comfortably. I might chuck up
one of the larger cutoff wheels from my zillion piece Dremel kit into a
regular-sized drill and see what that gets me. The RPM is probably going to
be too low to work fast enough.

Next time buy a weatherproof padlock.

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...&source=hp&q=w
eatherproof+padlock&pbx=1&oq=weatherproof+padlock& aq=f&aqi=g1g-c1g1g-m1&aql=
&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4908l6918l2l8374l12l11l0l0l0l3l228 l1595l0.10.1l11l0&bav=on.2
,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=7d415bf7fac0a263

I am pretty sure this one was billed as at least weather resistant but it's
been out there for 20 years so I supposed failure was inevitable.

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

There are a LOT of (good) padlocks out there that will just take the
teeth off a hacksaw - but a good cutoff wheel on a 4" angle grinder
will take them off. (some might take the better part of a wheel
though)

I'm not going to be hacksawing with my arthritis. )-: I expect the
operation to cost a cut-off disk - or two - especially since I'm not as
steady holding things as I used to be. It sounds like a $10 on sale angle
grinder and a pack of wheels might do the trick. I am going to try some
more primitive methods first - drowing it in more oil through the keyhole
(the WD40 did loosen things enough to allow for key entry, but not turning).

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..


An ordinary hacksaw

If it's a hardened shank? Don't think so.

That's the Egyptian theory. Lots of labor and lots of time.

Lots.

And lots.

Arthritis says "NO" to hacksaw solution. I suspect it's cut-off disk or
nothing at this point.

--
Bobby G.

"Tony Miklos" wrote in message
...
On 11/25/2011 7:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a padlock that's been outside too long. The key won't turn
(although after copious amounts of WD40 it does, finally, enter the
lock)
and it's in a rather hard to reach spot. I'm heading off to Harbor
Freight
this weekend, so I was thinking that the best way to remove the lock
would
be to buy an angle grinder and the appropriate cutoff wheels.

Of course, it would be nicest to simply unlock it, and any tips or
suggestions about how to coax it open are welcome. Brass body, looks
like
chrome steel hasp and brass key. Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer
bopping, vibrating, heating or cooling yet. Saving the lock is
unimportant
so cutting is a good alternative as I've wanted an angle grinder/cutoff
tool
for a while. (-:

I see them cutting through industrial-sized padlocks like butter on
"Storage
Wars" and it looks like they are using an electrically powered 5 or 6"
angle
grinder. HF sells an air powered version, but I've got a cheap
compressor )-: that I doubt would power it. An electric tool would be
better. I have a lithium-ion powered Dremel, but I don't think it would
cut
through on a single charge. It's just to lightweight a tool for this
job.

Anyone have any tips for weatherproofing a replacement? Blobs of
silcone
over the key hole and where the hasps enter the body of the lock?

--
Bobby G.


If you have AC power within reach, go with the angle grinder with a cut
off wheel, it will have 100 times the torque of an air powered one from
harbor freight and will cut through the lock like butter.

It's easier for me to drag an extension cord than the air compressor out
there so I am heavily leaning toward the angle-grinder solution. I've never
been able to figure out who buys air powered tools and why . . .

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Any 4-1/2" grinder with a thin (~1/8" or less) abrasive wheel will
make short work of any pad lock or hasp
and generate the least amount of sparks and debris.

I looked again at them clipping locks on "Storage Wars" and they seem to use
about a 1/3 horse electric motor (just estimating from the size of the tool)
with about an 8 or 9" blade. While I really have no particular use for a
tool of that size, I am hoping that the HF ten dollar grinder (half price
sale!) will last long enough to at least grind open this one lock.

A "plug-in Dremel" with those thin cutoff wheels will also do the job.

Santa's bringing me one, but I can't wait that long.

Never used a battery powered Dremel but those thin (1/16"?) cutoff
wheels remove such a small amount of material that the total energy required
might
keep the job within a single battery cycle.

I suppose that should be my first line of attack since I have the tools and
dozens of cut-off wheels. I think I will try that before buying the grinder
since I already have more tools than I have storage space for them.

Unless you really want to buy a POS HF angle grinder, I'd suggest giving
your Dremel a try.

I am ambivalent about yet another POS HF tool. I'm charging the Dremel now
to see what happens. If it only nicks the hasp in 30 or so seconds, I
suppose I'll have to make the trek to HF. They have a pump on sale that's
proved useful before and some other crap I need, so I'd be going there
anyway . . .

--
Bobby G.

"ChairMan" nospam@nospam wrote in message
. com...

stuff snipped

get a set of bolt cutters and be done in about 15 seconds.
as far as maintentence, spray regularly with WD-40.
I've had some outside for over 20 years

I've got a set of bolt-cutters (articulated for increased leverage) but
they've never impressed me much. Might try it before I buy the grinder,
though. So far, it's only been useful for cutting softer metals.

--
Bobby G.