Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:31:27 -0400, "ROANIN"
wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R


I posted this video awhile ago. It mentions using _heated_ vinegar and
salt. Heating the vinegar helps the salt dissolve easily and then
sprayed on weeds in driveways and sidewalks.

http://www.youtube.com/UNRExtension

Came from University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.

Oren wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:31:27 -0400, "ROANIN"
wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and
something else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the
formula?

Thanks,

R


I posted this video awhile ago. It mentions using _heated_ vinegar and
salt. Heating the vinegar helps the salt dissolve easily and then
sprayed on weeds in driveways and sidewalks.

http://www.youtube.com/UNRExtension

Came from University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.
Thanks Oren

"ROANIN" wrote

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and
something else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

I just use the cheap white or pale golden stuff sold by the gallon at the
food store. Use straight. Another adds salt which seems harmless.

"ROANIN" wrote in message
...


Oren wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:31:27 -0400, "ROANIN"
wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and
something else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the
formula?

Thanks,

R


I posted this video awhile ago. It mentions using _heated_ vinegar and
salt. Heating the vinegar helps the salt dissolve easily and then
sprayed on weeds in driveways and sidewalks.

http://www.youtube.com/UNRExtension

Came from University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.
Thanks Oren


You may have been talking about 1 pint (20% garden vinegar) and 2 tbls
citrus oil but try the heated method too. I'm still having trouble with
certain types of weeds. I'm going to look into Oren's link next time.

Jim

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 18:59:32 -0500, "JimT" wrote:


"ROANIN" wrote in message
...


Oren wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:31:27 -0400, "ROANIN"
wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and
something else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the
formula?

Thanks,

R


I posted this video awhile ago. It mentions using _heated_ vinegar and
salt. Heating the vinegar helps the salt dissolve easily and then
sprayed on weeds in driveways and sidewalks.

http://www.youtube.com/UNRExtension

Came from University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.
Thanks Oren


You may have been talking about 1 pint (20% garden vinegar) and 2 tbls
citrus oil but try the heated method too. I'm still having trouble with
certain types of weeds. I'm going to look into Oren's link next time.

Jim


I read the post, using vinegar and citrus oil.

Using salt, instead the formula would be:

One glass of vinegar, heated.

4 tbls of salt added, stirred to dissolve the salt.

A bottle sprayer is then used to spray the weeds.

I've not tried either method, yet. My neighbor was spraying his front
rock landscape recently with Roundup. I'll try the heated vinegar and
salt to try and kill some weeds he missed. Just for giggles.

On Sep 26, 4:31*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Oren wrote:
....

I've not tried either method, yet. My neighbor was spraying his front
rock landscape recently with Roundup. I'll try the heated vinegar and
salt to try and kill some weeds he missed. Just for giggles.

Just remember to not use something like this where expect to have any
other cover any time. In a rock area, patio, sidewalk cracks, etc.,
it'll be ok but don't use it to spot stuff in the yard, for example.
The salt will be a real problem in that case for quite a long time.

--

RickH wrote:
-snip-

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Once a year use an 'all season' weed killer. It kills the weeds and
prevents seed sprouting for 3-4 months.

I spray my 5-600sq foot patio in about an hour in May. For $20 --
then forget it til next year.

Jim

On Sep 28, 2:29*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH





wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. *I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:

On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH





wrote:

On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.


But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.


Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 19:03:10 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:

On Sep 28, 2:29Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH





wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31Â*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. Â*I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
In about 14 days it's all harmless salts anyway, apparently. No worse
than vinegar, and likely better than the salt and vinegar mix.

On Sep 28, 8:03*pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 2:29*pm, wrote:



On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH

wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. *I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

==
That Roundup residue won't hurt anything as it rapidly breaks down on
contact with soil. I'd worry more about acidic soil and salt buildup
using vinegar and salt. Using muriatic acid is also just plain dumb as
it is corrosive and poisonous.
==

On Sep 28, 9:29*pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:





On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:

On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH

wrote:

On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:

Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. *I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

On Sep 28, 11:54*pm, Roy wrote:
On Sep 28, 8:03*pm, RickH wrote:





On Sep 28, 2:29*pm, wrote:

On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH

wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

Thanks,

R

Can anyone say how effective this is?

It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. *I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.

Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

==
That Roundup residue won't hurt anything as it rapidly breaks down on
contact with soil. I'd worry more about acidic soil and salt buildup
using vinegar and salt. Using muriatic acid is also just plain dumb as
it is corrosive and poisonous.
==- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My paver manufacturer recommends muratic for regular cleaning.

On Sep 29, 7:15*am, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 22:29:41 -0400, willshak
wrote:





RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, *

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

You can plant flowers and most vegetables 48 hours after apllication
of roundup. It is designed to do its thing to existing roots and then
break down rapidly. It doesn't linger in the soil.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is not soil, it is pavers soaking up a herbicide where we sit as
outside living space, that is waht is un-appealing. Vinegar and salt
is harmless if pavers soak that up and people walk on it barefooted.

On Sep 29, 10:54*am, RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 7:15*am, wrote:





On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 22:29:41 -0400, willshak
wrote:

RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, *

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

You can plant flowers and most vegetables 48 hours after apllication
of roundup. It is designed to do its thing to existing roots and then
break down rapidly. It doesn't linger in the soil.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is not soil, it is pavers soaking up a herbicide where we sit as
outside living space, that is waht is un-appealing. *Vinegar and salt
is harmless if pavers soak that up and people walk on it barefooted.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

There is a replacement for triox that I've seen in lowes. Your
vinegar/salt is probably ok for what you are trying to do. Are your
trees all reasonably far away? I'd don't know how environmentally
friendly it is but I have also seen discussions about wiping the
pavers down with used motor oil. Apparently also leaves a nice patina.

On Sep 29, 9:54*am, RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 7:15*am, wrote:



On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 22:29:41 -0400, willshak
wrote:

RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, *

But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.

Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

You can plant flowers and most vegetables 48 hours after apllication
of roundup. It is designed to do its thing to existing roots and then
break down rapidly. It doesn't linger in the soil.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is not soil, it is pavers soaking up a herbicide where we sit as
outside living space, that is waht is un-appealing. *Vinegar and salt
is harmless if pavers soak that up and people walk on it barefooted.

Roundup breaks down in a very short time. There is *nothing*
dangerous about it "soaking into the pavers". Don't get that vinegar
and salt in a cut on your feet! :-/

On Sep 26, 5:31*pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?

The something else is ROUNDUP.

RickH wrote:

-snip-
a non-toxic herbicide

If it is non-toxic-- then how will it help anything? All the major
players have minimally toxic, with short 'toxic to animals' phases.

One hour- once a year- and be done with it.

It doesn't matter if your gravel base is 100 feet deep-- the weed
seeds come from the top.

Jim

RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:





On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.

RickH wrote:

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

You need a two-step process:

1. Kill the existing weeds. Roundup, vinegar, propane torch, pull 'em by
hand, whatever.

2. A liberal application of a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds,
spores, seeds, cuttings, tubers, and all the plant eggs remaining. You
should use this herbicide every spring and it usually lasts the whole
growing season.

On Sep 29, 12:22*pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:

On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick..
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. *I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Same problem. *Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. *Weed seed still gets in there. *I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. *Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. *One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. *Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). *Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. *If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes there is a good reason to flood it, there are probably 500 brick
joints in both directions spaced 3 to 7 inches apart on a 40 foot by
20 foot area. Spraying the full length of those tens of thousands of
joints takes literally days, if I spot spray then I'm waiting for the
weeds to win the fight and show themselves. I could flood the patio
in a 10 minute job, rather than, literally a 10 hour job of spraying
each brick joint, then having the outer edges of every brick
discolored by roundup oil and middle of each brick still dry. I'd
rather every brick soak up a harmless non-oily sunbstance for
consistent color and get the joints well flooded deep with killer all
done in 10 minutes.

In article ,
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29*pm, willshak wrote:
...snipped...
Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

The vinegar herbicide recipe does not call for table vinegar, but what
at least one company markets as "garden vinegar" It is 20% acetic acid.
Table vinegar is 4 or 5%. I'm not crazy about Roundup, but I wouldn't
be so sure that 20% acetic acid plus salt is more environmentally benign
than Roundup, especially in "flood" quantities.



--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Sep 29, 3:42*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RickH wrote:

Same problem. *Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. *Weed seed still gets in there. *I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. *Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

You need a two-step process:

1. Kill the existing weeds. Roundup, vinegar, propane torch, pull 'em by
hand, whatever.

2. A liberal application of a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds,
spores, seeds, cuttings, tubers, and all the plant eggs remaining. You
should use this herbicide every spring and it usually lasts the whole
growing season.

There is no visible dirt, the weeds are between the brick joints. I
suppose I could add just a little round up to the vinegar and maybe it
wont oil-into the brick so bad. But I do need to flood the surface,
there is no way in hell I'm gonna individually spray all those joints
and have just the brick edges get stained. I'd rather flood then
sweep it around until it drops between the tight paver joints, then
hose it all down next day to wash the brick surface.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 13:22:37 -0400, "
wrote:

RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:





On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.
The only problem is roundup is only a "killer". It kills what is
green NOW. What you want is a soil sterilizer - which is, by
definition, poisonous (at least to plants) and long-lasting. It will
prevent new seeds from germinating.
Corn Gluten is supposed to stop weeds from sprouting.
Calmix from NuFarm is a common sterilizer -Bromacil and 2-4d.
Methyl Bromide is no longer readily available, but worked.
Anything with Prometon is also non-selective and residual.
Pramitol and Sahara DG are other brands.

Do NOT get it anywhere you want vegetation to grow within a year or 2.
DO NOT over-apply - as it can leach or wash out to areas where
vegetation is desired -

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 14:31:32 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:

On Sep 29, 3:42Â*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RickH wrote:

Same problem. Â*Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Â*Weed seed still gets in there. Â*I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Â*Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.

You need a two-step process:

1. Kill the existing weeds. Roundup, vinegar, propane torch, pull 'em by
hand, whatever.

2. A liberal application of a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the weeds,
spores, seeds, cuttings, tubers, and all the plant eggs remaining. You
should use this herbicide every spring and it usually lasts the whole
growing season.

There is no visible dirt, the weeds are between the brick joints. I
suppose I could add just a little round up to the vinegar and maybe it
wont oil-into the brick so bad. But I do need to flood the surface,
there is no way in hell I'm gonna individually spray all those joints
and have just the brick edges get stained. I'd rather flood then
sweep it around until it drops between the tight paver joints, then
hose it all down next day to wash the brick surface.
And where, praytell, will the run-off go - both when flooding and
when washing down?????

A real good example of why herbicides have been banned in so many
areas - total blatant mis-use due either to laziness or ignorance (or
both)

RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 12:22 pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.
There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes there is a good reason to flood it, there are probably 500 brick
joints in both directions spaced 3 to 7 inches apart on a 40 foot by
20 foot area. Spraying the full length of those tens of thousands of
joints takes literally days, if I spot spray then I'm waiting for the
weeds to win the fight and show themselves. I could flood the patio
in a 10 minute job, rather than, literally a 10 hour job of spraying
each brick joint, then having the outer edges of every brick
discolored by roundup oil and middle of each brick still dry. I'd
rather every brick soak up a harmless non-oily sunbstance for
consistent color and get the joints well flooded deep with killer all
done in 10 minutes.


Oil? Never have seen oily residue using Roundup. Your idea of flooding
is not the same as mine, apparently. When you mentioned flooding, I
pictured saturating the whole patio with R. Spraying the entire patio
to cover all of the weeds should not take long. The entire weed does
not need to be wetted...Roundup is taken up by the plant through the
foliage and, providing one follows label instr., begins very soon to
kill the plant. Remaining Roundup decomposes, IRRC, in about two weeks.
It should be applied when one expects no rain for a couple of days.
There are a few weeds with tough, waxy foliage, that are a little
tougher to kill. Any foliage killer will probably leave behind
unsprouted seeds, but the next crop should be much smaller and once
eliminated should be very easy to keep clear. I avoid widespread use of
poison, and combine good maintenance into the plan. Pulling one weed by
hand before it produces seed might eliminate hundreds or thousands of
plants. Gotta keep the R. away from desireable plants. I know nothing
about the salt/vinegar treatment, but there are good plants that are
very sensitive to salt, like rhododendron and azalea, so it isn't
necessarily the best method for all weed problems.

On Sep 29, 5:01*pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 12:22 pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 19:01:50 -0400, "
wrote:

RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 12:22 pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.
There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes there is a good reason to flood it, there are probably 500 brick
joints in both directions spaced 3 to 7 inches apart on a 40 foot by
20 foot area. Spraying the full length of those tens of thousands of
joints takes literally days, if I spot spray then I'm waiting for the
weeds to win the fight and show themselves. I could flood the patio
in a 10 minute job, rather than, literally a 10 hour job of spraying
each brick joint, then having the outer edges of every brick
discolored by roundup oil and middle of each brick still dry. I'd
rather every brick soak up a harmless non-oily sunbstance for
consistent color and get the joints well flooded deep with killer all
done in 10 minutes.


Oil? Never have seen oily residue using Roundup. Your idea of flooding
is not the same as mine, apparently. When you mentioned flooding, I
pictured saturating the whole patio with R. Spraying the entire patio
to cover all of the weeds should not take long. The entire weed does
not need to be wetted...Roundup is taken up by the plant through the
foliage and, providing one follows label instr., begins very soon to
kill the plant. Remaining Roundup decomposes, IRRC, in about two weeks.
It should be applied when one expects no rain for a couple of days.
There are a few weeds with tough, waxy foliage, that are a little
tougher to kill. Any foliage killer will probably leave behind
unsprouted seeds, but the next crop should be much smaller and once
eliminated should be very easy to keep clear. I avoid widespread use of
poison, and combine good maintenance into the plan. Pulling one weed by
hand before it produces seed might eliminate hundreds or thousands of
plants. Gotta keep the R. away from desireable plants. I know nothing
about the salt/vinegar treatment, but there are good plants that are
very sensitive to salt, like rhododendron and azalea, so it isn't
necessarily the best method for all weed problems.
Mixing a surfactant with the roundup helps on the stubborn waxy or
oily leafed plants. Dishsoap, or a few drops of Diesel fuel in the mix
makes a big difference to those plants.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 16:20:29 -0700 (PDT), Roy
wrote:

On Sep 29, 5:01Â*pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 12:22 pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. Â*I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Same problem. Â*Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Â*Weed seed still gets in there. Â*I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Â*Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.
There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. Â*One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Â*Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Â*Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. Â*If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes there is a good reason to flood it, there are probably 500 brick
joints in both directions spaced 3 to 7 inches apart on a 40 foot by
20 foot area. Â*Spraying the full length of those tens of thousands of
joints takes literally days, if I spot spray then I'm waiting for the
weeds to win the fight and show themselves. Â*I could flood the patio
in a 10 minute job, rather than, literally a 10 hour job of spraying
each brick joint, then having the outer edges of every brick
discolored by roundup oil and middle of each brick still dry. Â*I'd
rather every brick soak up a harmless non-oily sunbstance for
consistent color and get the joints well flooded deep with killer all
done in 10 minutes.

Oil? Â*Never have seen oily residue using Roundup. Â*Your idea of flooding
is not the same as mine, apparently. Â*When you mentioned flooding, I
pictured saturating the whole patio with R. Â*Spraying the entire patio
to cover all of the weeds should not take long. Â*The entire weed does
not need to be wetted...Roundup is taken up by the plant through the
foliage and, providing one follows label instr., begins very soon to
kill the plant. Â*Remaining Roundup decomposes, IRRC, in about two weeks.
Â* It should be applied when one expects no rain for a couple of days.
There are a few weeds with tough, waxy foliage, that are a little
tougher to kill. Â*Any foliage killer will probably leave behind
unsprouted seeds, but the next crop should be much smaller and once
eliminated should be very easy to keep clear. Â*I avoid widespread use of
poison, and combine good maintenance into the plan. Â*Pulling one weed by
hand before it produces seed might eliminate hundreds or thousands of
plants. Â*Gotta keep the R. away from desireable plants. Â*I know nothing
about the salt/vinegar treatment, but there are good plants that are
very sensitive to salt, like rhododendron and azalea, so it isn't
necessarily the best method for all weed problems.

==
An ATV with a small mounted sprayer could apply Roundup in less than
five minutes in that small an area. Roundup drifts in wind...you have
to be careful. Safer by far than the pre-emergent sprays and with no
residue problem. There are also wide spongemop type applicators that
you just drag/wipe over the patio.
==
Those self-feeding painrollers that are useless for painting your
ceiling work good for roundup.

RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 3:42 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RickH wrote:

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are
tightly butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood"
the whole patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get
killer down, but dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks.
Spraying the joints literally takes all day, I want to flood whole
patio with a non-toxic herbicide and watering can maybe once a
month.

You need a two-step process:

1. Kill the existing weeds. Roundup, vinegar, propane torch, pull
'em by hand, whatever.

2. A liberal application of a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the
weeds, spores, seeds, cuttings, tubers, and all the plant eggs
remaining. You should use this herbicide every spring and it usually
lasts the whole growing season.

There is no visible dirt, the weeds are between the brick joints. I
suppose I could add just a little round up to the vinegar and maybe it
wont oil-into the brick so bad. But I do need to flood the surface,
there is no way in hell I'm gonna individually spray all those joints
and have just the brick edges get stained. I'd rather flood then
sweep it around until it drops between the tight paver joints, then
hose it all down next day to wash the brick surface.

Ah, okay. Here's a solution that WILL work! Guaranteed!

1. Remove bricks.
2. Lay impermeable membrane (plastic sheeting, backerboard, etc.)
3. Replace bricks.

"HeyBub" wrote:

-snip-

Ah, okay. Here's a solution that WILL work! Guaranteed!

1. Remove bricks.
2. Lay impermeable membrane (plastic sheeting, backerboard, etc.)
3. Replace bricks.


Maybe in the desert- but in my part of the world that will only work
for a year. Weed seeds are smaller than the gap between pavers- and
will sprout as soon as there is enough moisture there to set things in
motion.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote:

-snip-

Ah, okay. Here's a solution that WILL work! Guaranteed!

1. Remove bricks.
2. Lay impermeable membrane (plastic sheeting, backerboard, etc.)
3. Replace bricks.


Maybe in the desert- but in my part of the world that will only work
for a year. Weed seeds are smaller than the gap between pavers- and
will sprout as soon as there is enough moisture there to set things in
motion.


Ah! Excellent point!

Amended suggestion:
1. Remove bricks
2. Lay impermeable membrane
3. Mortar bricks back into place.

HeyBub wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote:

-snip-
Ah, okay. Here's a solution that WILL work! Guaranteed!

1. Remove bricks.
2. Lay impermeable membrane (plastic sheeting, backerboard, etc.)
3. Replace bricks.

Maybe in the desert- but in my part of the world that will only work
for a year. Weed seeds are smaller than the gap between pavers- and
will sprout as soon as there is enough moisture there to set things in
motion.


Ah! Excellent point!

Amended suggestion:
1. Remove bricks
2. Lay impermeable membrane
3. Mortar bricks back into place.


That is a huge endeavor to solve a fairly simple problem. Landscape
cloth would have helped, as some contain a long-term weed preventer.
Hosing off the pavers might also help to keep soil and seeds from
establishing.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 20:40:09 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 3:42 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
RickH wrote:

Same problem. Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are
tightly butted. Weed seed still gets in there. I want to "flood"
the whole patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get
killer down, but dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks.
Spraying the joints literally takes all day, I want to flood whole
patio with a non-toxic herbicide and watering can maybe once a
month.

You need a two-step process:

1. Kill the existing weeds. Roundup, vinegar, propane torch, pull
'em by hand, whatever.

2. A liberal application of a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the
weeds, spores, seeds, cuttings, tubers, and all the plant eggs
remaining. You should use this herbicide every spring and it usually
lasts the whole growing season.

There is no visible dirt, the weeds are between the brick joints. I
suppose I could add just a little round up to the vinegar and maybe it
wont oil-into the brick so bad. But I do need to flood the surface,
there is no way in hell I'm gonna individually spray all those joints
and have just the brick edges get stained. I'd rather flood then
sweep it around until it drops between the tight paver joints, then
hose it all down next day to wash the brick surface.

Ah, okay. Here's a solution that WILL work! Guaranteed!

1. Remove bricks.
2. Lay impermeable membrane (plastic sheeting, backerboard, etc.)
3. Replace bricks.

Don't work.
Unless you mortar the bricks or use the special (almost mortar) crack
filler sand. The weeds grow in what is between the bricks - not in
what is under them.