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#1
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spot weed killer?
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming
the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. |
#2
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. What weeds? What works for some weeds will not work for others. I assume that it is a lawn and that you want to not kill the grass. There are a number of general lawn weed killers that will not kill the grass (assuming you don't really overdo it) but will kill many kinds of weeds) Note: always read the label and make sure it is safe on the grass you have. WD-40 is a great Water Displacement, a poor lubricant and a very poor week killer. Gasoline is good at fueling most cars and can kill almost any living thing, including grass. Roundup will kill weeds, but it also kills grass and almost anything else it gets on. My suggestion is to identify the type(s) of grass you have and the types of weeds you want to kill. Then with that information you can read the labels on the available products to select one. You could also contact your local county extension service and they would be able to offer some unbiased suggestions good for your local conditions. Question: Why would it be so important that it work in less than a few days? Often that is the best solution. You want to kill it all the way to the root. -- Joseph Meehan Dia duit |
#3
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spot weed killer?
"tenplay" wrote in message . .. I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. For years now I have been using weed killer on my weeds. I never thought to try WD40; I bet they wouldn't squeek so badly afterwards. Thanks for the idea. |
#4
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. When you are faced with only spot weeds, pulling by hand is best. Roundup is sure-fire, and can be brushed on so you don't damage surrounding lawn or plants and is easy to kill tough weeds. If there are too many to do that, then a hose-end sprayer with a broadleaf weed killer works very well. Weed/feed combos are not necessary and are too much chemical for routine use. Just pulling a couple of weeds might remove several thousand seeds, so it isn't wasted effort. |
#5
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. Hi, If lawn is healthy weeds can be choked out. What kind of weed? My lawn is not big in size but I just dig it out when I see weed. |
#6
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. I gave up carpet-bombing my lawn with "Weed and Feed" products because my trees were suffering for it. Instead, I now use two ounces of 2,4-D + mecoprop + dicambra concentrate per gallon in a pump sprayer and leisurely walk around the yard spot-spraying broadleaf weeds. It's so amazingly satisfying to soak a weed and KNOW it will be wilting the next day, and dead in a week. I maintain my 2-acre lawn this way. Takes about 40 minutes to walk the whole 2 acres. I do this about four times during the active growing season. Every year the lawn looks better and better. When used properly it won't hurt your grass. Don't spray it on shrubs though. Buy the stuff (any brand will do - just make sure to read the label and check the concentration) at Walmart in late September when they are clearing the shelves. You can get it for less than half price - 3 bucks a quart. I use about 2 quarts a year for 2 acres plus killing poison ivy and brush along some wooded trails. |
#7
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spot weed killer?
Ether Jones wrote:
tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. I gave up carpet-bombing my lawn with "Weed and Feed" products because my trees were suffering for it. Instead, I now use two ounces of 2,4-D + mecoprop + dicambra concentrate per gallon in a pump sprayer and leisurely walk around the yard spot-spraying broadleaf weeds. It's so amazingly satisfying to soak a weed and KNOW it will be wilting the next day, and dead in a week. I maintain my 2-acre lawn this way. Takes about 40 minutes to walk the whole 2 acres. I do this about four times during the active growing season. Every year the lawn looks better and better. When used properly it won't hurt your grass. Don't spray it on shrubs though. Buy the stuff (any brand will do - just make sure to read the label and check the concentration) at Walmart in late September when they are clearing the shelves. You can get it for less than half price - 3 bucks a quart. I use about 2 quarts a year for 2 acres plus killing poison ivy and brush along some wooded trails. Hi, Hope no children of pets play in your yard! Think environment. Week killer is most effective whe they are vigorously growing. |
#8
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spot weed killer?
http://www.css.cornell.edu/weedeco/
tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. |
#9
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spot weed killer?
Tony Hwang wrote: Hope no children of pets play in your yard! Think environment. I hope you don't play golf or take your children to the park. I hope you don't have a swimming pool or stay in hotels. I hope you never buy groceries at Publix or Winn-Dixie or Kroger or Meijer or WalMart. |
#10
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spot weed killer?
Tony Hwang wrote: Hope no children of pets play in your yard! My pet has no children. |
#11
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spot weed killer?
I agree with Ether. Using a 2 gallon sprayer, you just walk the lawn and deliver a spot treatment of an appropriate weedkiller directly to the weeds. Much more effective than the weed n feed type products. And much better for the environment, because you only use a small fraction of the herbicide and deliver it where it works. For most broadleaf weeds, a product like Weed B Gone is what you want to use. There are other products that will also kill the weed, but not the grass, but are targeted more for weeds that are tougher to control. Only an imbecile would use WD-40 or gas on a lawn, which leads me to believe the OP is a troll. |
#12
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. This works pretty well, especially after it's broken in and you wear the paint off the tines: http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm I think it's $20 at the Orange Borg. If you make a noticeable number of holes, scatter some grass seed so new grass crowds out the weeds. The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. |
#13
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote:
I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. For most broadleaf weeds (dandelions, thistles, elm tree seedlings, etc) 2,4-d works really well in a spray bottle. It doesn't work for "creeping charlie" and I'm not sure if it works for wild violets. You should be able to buy it premixed in a quart spray bottle. I bought a quart of the concentrate 10 years ago and I've used less than a third of it. Bob |
#16
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spot weed killer?
Norminn wrote: wrote: I agree with Ether. Using a 2 gallon sprayer, you just walk the lawn and deliver a spot treatment of an appropriate weedkiller directly to the weeds. Much more effective than the weed n feed type products. And much better for the environment, because you only use a small fraction of the herbicide and deliver it where it works. For most broadleaf weeds, a product like Weed B Gone is what you want to use. There are other products that will also kill the weed, but not the grass, but are targeted more for weeds that are tougher to control. Only an imbecile would use WD-40 or gas on a lawn, which leads me to believe the OP is a troll. You guys must have some muscle .. jeesh. Two gal. of weed killer would last a long, long time. Not a major issue, but 1 gal goes a long way ) He's talking about 2 gallons of prepared solution, not 2 gallons of concentrate. For my 2 acres of lawn, I go through about 2 gallons of prepared solution (2oz of concentrate per gallon of water) every time I treat the property (about 4 times every spring). It only takes half an hour or so. On the trails through the woods, I go through several gallons (but I use glyphosate instead of 2,4D). |
#17
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spot weed killer?
z wrote: wrote: tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. This works pretty well, especially after it's broken in and you wear the paint off the tines: http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm I think it's $20 at the Orange Borg. If you make a noticeable number of holes, scatter some grass seed so new grass crowds out the weeds. The best defense against weeds is a healthy lawn. Amen to this item. The efficacy of this type of tool is a strong function of the soil type. The tool is not usable in heavy clay soil in dry weather. Voice of experience. |
#18
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spot weed killer?
clipped
For my 2 acres of lawn, I go through about 2 gallons of prepared solution (2oz of concentrate per gallon of water) every time I treat the property (about 4 times every spring). It only takes half an hour or so. On the trails through the woods, I go through several gallons (but I use glyphosate instead of 2,4D). I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container. You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. Do you trap all the animals and take them somewhere else? |
#19
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spot weed killer?
Norminn wrote: I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container. You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal. You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the woods? Do you trap all the animals and take them somewhere else? Please elaborate. There appears to be an implication in your question but rather than have me guess why don't you just spell it out. |
#20
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spot weed killer?
On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones"
wrote: Norminn wrote: I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container. You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal. You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the woods? I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them. |
#21
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spot weed killer?
tenplay wrote: I would like to zap weeds growing in the lawn and garden without harming the grass and plants growing around the weeds. What is the best way to do it? I saw something called a Weed Stick online, where you supposedly walk around injecting any kind of concentrated weed killer directly on the weed. Anyone try it? Would WD40 or gasoline work using a direct applicator? It sounds like a lot of folks use Roundup, but I find that it works too slow. It seems to take a couple of days for the leaves to begin turning brown. Thanks for any suggestions. I have had good results using undiluted vinegar |
#22
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spot weed killer?
Ether Jones wrote:
http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm The efficacy of this type of tool is a strong function of the soil type. The tool is not usable in heavy clay soil in dry weather. Voice of experience. Well, my dirt turns to adobe when it's dry, and I can still rip up a plug with this thing without much trouble. It's got a footpeg where you can stomp on it if just pushing down the handle isn't enough. It works a little better when the soil is wet, though, just because if the big old dandelion roots take a jog sideways instead of down and extend out of the plug, when it's wet they will often still slide out intact when you pull the thing up, but when it's dry they break off and could still resprout. So next time you repeat. Where the thing doesn't work at all is where the dandelion has sprouted right over top of a root or big rock so you can't plunge the thing to full depth. The way it's articulated, the nails go in straight down then when they're full length the tips close in to make an upside cone that pulls up; so if you can't plunge it down full length you can't pull up a plug. |
#23
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spot weed killer?
Goedjn wrote: On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones" wrote: Norminn wrote: I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container. You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal. You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the woods? I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them. Not through multiflora rose and poison ivy you don't. |
#24
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spot weed killer?
Goedjn wrote: On 12 Oct 2006 11:02:30 -0700, "Ether Jones" wrote: Norminn wrote: I was just complaining about having to haul around a 2 gal. container. You can buy pump sprayers that strap on your back. It's no big deal. You spray trails through the woods? Now I have heard it all. How do you think parks create and maintain walking trails through the woods? I dunno how parks do it, but *I* do it by walking on them. Not through multiflora rose and poison ivy you don't. |
#25
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spot weed killer?
z wrote: Ether Jones wrote: http://www.hound-dog.com/weed_hound.htm The efficacy of this type of tool is a strong function of the soil type. The tool is not usable in heavy clay soil in dry weather. Voice of experience. Well, my dirt turns to adobe when it's dry, and I can still rip up a plug with this thing without much trouble. It's got a footpeg where you can stomp on it if just pushing down the handle isn't enough. It works a little better when the soil is wet, though, just because if the big old dandelion roots take a jog sideways instead of down and extend out of the plug, when it's wet they will often still slide out intact when you pull the thing up, but when it's dry they break off and could still resprout. So next time you repeat. Where the thing doesn't work at all is where the dandelion has sprouted right over top of a root or big rock so you can't plunge the thing to full depth. The way it's articulated, the nails go in straight down then when they're full length the tips close in to make an upside cone that pulls up; so if you can't plunge it down full length you can't pull up a plug. Like I said, voice of experience. I have one of these. It is unusable in my yard in dry weather. The heavy clay soil is like brick when dry. |
#26
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spot weed killer?
Ether Jones wrote: Like I said, voice of experience. I have one of these. It is unusable in my yard in dry weather. The heavy clay soil is like brick when dry. Yow. I guess I better stop whining about my yucky soil! |
#27
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spot weed killer?
Out here in the hot south Texas country, some use gasoline but diesel
works best. It is also illegal as awl git out. -- Careful how you respond. I have people! JC |
#28
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spot weed killer?
On Jul 6, 12:16*pm, (hollybooks)
wrote: responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/spot-weed-killer-155060-.htmhollybooks wrote: I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against these fat bullies. I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. *Suggestions? Roundup, painted on the leaves. |
#29
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spot weed killer?
hollybooks wrote:
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm hollybooks wrote: I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against these fat bullies. I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. Suggestions? tenplay wrote: For tough weeds as you describe, I have used Roundup with great success. If it is in or too close to desirable grass/plants to spray it, just put some Roundup in a cup and brush it on the weed you want to get rid of. Some weeds, esp. those with waxy leaves, may require more than one application but I haven't found a weed that Roundup won't kill. |
#30
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spot weed killer?
wrote in message ... hollybooks wrote: responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm hollybooks wrote: I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against these fat bullies. I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. Suggestions? tenplay wrote: For tough weeds as you describe, I have used Roundup with great success. If it is in or too close to desirable grass/plants to spray it, just put some Roundup in a cup and brush it on the weed you want to get rid of. Some weeds, esp. those with waxy leaves, may require more than one application but I haven't found a weed that Roundup won't kill. Farmers did a version of this as well. A farmer would have a 20-30' long piece of 4" PVC with the ends capped. Inside would be Roundup and it'd be fastened to the drag links of the tractor. He would have screw on caps that held a lantern-type wick that was wrapped around the pipe, with the pipe acting as the reservoir. When the weeds in a bean field got taller than the beans, he'd then drive the field with the pipe just above the bean plants. The taller weeds would get a "licking" from the pipe as it passed over them, cleaning up the field. Nonny -- On most days, it's just not worth the effort of chewing through the restraints.. |
#31
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spot weed killer?
On Jul 6, 12:16*pm, (hollybooks)
wrote: responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/spot-weed-killer-155060-.htmhollybooks wrote: I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against these fat bullies. I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. *Suggestions? Buy a bag of 33-0-0 ammonium nitrate/sulfate fertilizer. Put about 2 tablespoons on the crown of the weed. The fertilizer will burn & kill the weed and with the next rain will fertilize the grass around it. No nasty herbicides in the soil either. KC |
#32
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spot weed killer?
Helping to result, of course, in a new generation of Roundup resistant
weeds. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/04/bu...nt/04weed.html Farmers did a version of this as well. *A farmer would have a 20-30' long piece of 4" PVC with the ends capped. *Inside would be Roundup and it'd be fastened to the drag links of the tractor. *He would have screw on caps that held a lantern-type wick that was wrapped around the pipe, with the pipe acting as the reservoir. When the weeds in a bean field got taller than the beans, he'd then drive the field with the pipe just above the bean plants. The taller weeds would get a "licking" from the pipe as it passed over them, cleaning up the field. |
#33
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spot weed killer?
hollybooks wrote:
responding to http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-155060-.htm hollybooks wrote: I would prefer to just dig out the weeds one by one but these are tough weeds with long fat roots. Every time I pull one I also uproot the fragile new grass planted along with it. New grass will never win out against these fat bullies. I was hoping for something to carefully inject into each one to kill only that weed and give the new grass a fighting chance. Suggestions? I just use a handheld sprayer with weed-b-gon solution to spray the weed. Since it doesn't kill the grass, that's all it takes. A container of concentrate lasts me years. |
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