On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 16:20:29 -0700 (PDT), Roy
wrote:

On Sep 29, 5:01Â*pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 29, 12:22 pm, "
wrote:
RickH wrote:
On Sep 28, 9:29 pm, willshak wrote:
RickH wrote the following:
On Sep 28, 2:29 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:24:59 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:
On Sep 26, 4:31 pm, "ROANIN" wrote:
Saw a post a while ago about making weed killer using vinegar and something
else. Cannot find the post now. Can someone repost the formula?
Thanks,
R
Can anyone say how effective this is?
It sounds perfect for "flooding" my patio pavers so it goes deep
between them without leaving a toxic residue soaking into the brick.
There is a restaurant supply here that has great prices on vinegar.
It will clean the pavers too if I use it as an acid wash and get
killer down between the pavers at the same time while scrubbing.
Please post how effective it is as a weed kill. Â*I suppose muratic
acid will work too but that is really harsh.
Roundup kills the ROOTS so the weeds go down and STAY down. Vinegar is
a very temporary measure.
But I dont want roundup soaked into the brick as a residue.
Are you planning to plant some flowers or vegetables between the patio
bricks?
FWIW, I dump the muriatic acid used to clean the pool's DE filters
fingers on the patio after I close the pool for the season.
The freakin' moss and weeds still comes up between the bricks the next year.
I also spray the patio with roundup in the early spring.
I spend a lot of money trying to get grass to grow in my clay filled
lawn, but a few grains of windblown dirt on my patio is enough to
support a sprout of grass between the blocks.
Go figure!
In case you are wondering, this patio was built using more than the
appropriate underlayments. The trenches were over excavated, much to the
dismay of the contractor who had to use more gravel and sand than usual
for the contracted price.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -
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Same problem. Â*Mine has an 18 inch bed of gravel topped by a 6 inch
bed of limestone screening topped by the pavers and pavers are tightly
butted. Â*Weed seed still gets in there. Â*I want to "flood" the whole
patio rather than just spray the joints so I can get killer down, but
dont want chemical hebicide imbeded into bricks. Â*Spraying the joints
literally takes all day, I want to flood whole patio with a non-toxic
herbicide and watering can maybe once a month.
There is no need to flood the entire patio using Roundup...just spray
the weeds according to instructions. Â*One use should kill all the weeds,
although tough waxy leaves may require two applications. Â*Then, spot
treat any new weeds (or pull by hand). Â*Existing weed seeds may continue
to germinate for a while, but once gone the patio should be easy to
maintain. Â*If there are lawn grasses adjoining the patio and growing
between pavers, a barrier should help keep them out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes there is a good reason to flood it, there are probably 500 brick
joints in both directions spaced 3 to 7 inches apart on a 40 foot by
20 foot area. Â*Spraying the full length of those tens of thousands of
joints takes literally days, if I spot spray then I'm waiting for the
weeds to win the fight and show themselves. Â*I could flood the patio
in a 10 minute job, rather than, literally a 10 hour job of spraying
each brick joint, then having the outer edges of every brick
discolored by roundup oil and middle of each brick still dry. Â*I'd
rather every brick soak up a harmless non-oily sunbstance for
consistent color and get the joints well flooded deep with killer all
done in 10 minutes.

Oil? Â*Never have seen oily residue using Roundup. Â*Your idea of flooding
is not the same as mine, apparently. Â*When you mentioned flooding, I
pictured saturating the whole patio with R. Â*Spraying the entire patio
to cover all of the weeds should not take long. Â*The entire weed does
not need to be wetted...Roundup is taken up by the plant through the
foliage and, providing one follows label instr., begins very soon to
kill the plant. Â*Remaining Roundup decomposes, IRRC, in about two weeks.
Â* It should be applied when one expects no rain for a couple of days.
There are a few weeds with tough, waxy foliage, that are a little
tougher to kill. Â*Any foliage killer will probably leave behind
unsprouted seeds, but the next crop should be much smaller and once
eliminated should be very easy to keep clear. Â*I avoid widespread use of
poison, and combine good maintenance into the plan. Â*Pulling one weed by
hand before it produces seed might eliminate hundreds or thousands of
plants. Â*Gotta keep the R. away from desireable plants. Â*I know nothing
about the salt/vinegar treatment, but there are good plants that are
very sensitive to salt, like rhododendron and azalea, so it isn't
necessarily the best method for all weed problems.

==
An ATV with a small mounted sprayer could apply Roundup in less than
five minutes in that small an area. Roundup drifts in wind...you have
to be careful. Safer by far than the pre-emergent sprays and with no
residue problem. There are also wide spongemop type applicators that
you just drag/wipe over the patio.
==
Those self-feeding painrollers that are useless for painting your
ceiling work good for roundup.