Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)

Cheers
Pete

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
saying something like:

All ideas welcome.

Biodiesel, seriously.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote in
message ...
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up
a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto 20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.



-

Mark wrote in message
...
....
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up
a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.


Please insert "U" in pond!

-

On 2008-05-08 17:27:29 +0100, "Mark" said:


Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote in
message ...
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up
a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto 20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.



-

But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
a period of time when one can't replant.

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.

There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?

Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few gallons
left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

Andy Hall wrote in message news:48233250@qaanaaq...
On 2008-05-08 17:27:29 +0100, "Mark" said:


Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote in
message ...
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up
a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.



But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
a period of time when one can't replant.

That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .

-

On 2008-05-08 18:06:31 +0100, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
said:

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.

There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?

Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware
store.

What's the objective?

Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?


If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.

If you want to be selective, then a glyphosate weedkiller is the usual choice.

Mark wrote:

Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.
Please insert "U" in pond!

:¬)

I'll take a look next time I see one.

Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
Might be another good way of using up some of the Paraffin I have left over.

Cheers
Pete
--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

Andy Hall wrote:

What's the objective?
Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?

For the most part that would be the aim.

If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.

The areas to be de-weeded are borders with a few large hydrangers(sp) but on
the whole it would be for around 80% plant destruction. Casualties of war would
be minimal and certainly not really missed.

How long would a sodium chlorated soil remain hostile to re-planting?

If you want to be selective, then a glyphosate weedkiller is the usual
choice.

Not really fussed about saving anything as there's nothing that really to be saved.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

snip
Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.

Please insert "U" in pond!

No! I don't want to get wet.

;-)

In article , Mark
writes

Andy Hall wrote in message news:48233250@qaanaaq...
On 2008-05-08 17:27:29 +0100, "Mark" said:


Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote in
message ...
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up
a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pond shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes upto
20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.



But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
a period of time when one can't replant.

That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .

I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:

"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."

Glyphosate does the job but I've never tried to synthesize it from base
chemicals so not DIY but you can get a lot for 20quid if you don't buy
it at B&Q and that's good enough for me.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

On 2008-05-08 19:00:08 +0100, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

What's the objective?
Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?

For the most part that would be the aim.

If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.

The areas to be de-weeded are borders with a few large hydrangers(sp)
but on the whole it would be for around 80% plant destruction.
Casualties of war would be minimal and certainly not really missed.

Ho

Realistically if you do it now, next year.

In message , Pet -
www.GymRatZ.co.uk writes
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.

There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?

Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware
store.

You may joke but true. In my youth (don't ask) tractor vapourising oil
(green paraffin) was used to kill broad leaved weeds in germinated
carrots!

regards


--
Tim Lamb

In message 482335be@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes
On 2008-05-08 18:06:31 +0100, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
said:

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.
There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?
Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a
few gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a
hardware store.

What's the objective?

Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?


If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.

If you want to be selective, then a glyphosate weedkiller is the usual choice.

Umm... Glyphosate is intended to kill grasses which it does very
effectively. There are some weeds which are largely unaffected.

regards



--
Tim Lamb

"Andy Hall" wrote in message news:482335be@qaanaaq...
On 2008-05-08 18:06:31 +0100, "Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
said:

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

All ideas welcome.
Biodiesel, seriously.

There's one I hadn't come across.
Does it kill to the root or just wither & die to re-grow?

Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.

What's the objective?

Do you just want to kill the dandelions or nuke all vegetation?


If it's to nuke everything, then sodium chlorate.


If it is a nuke then the pound shop sell the cheapest. Sodium chlorate is
still sodium chlorate even when it is sold for a pound.

Adam

fred wrote in message ...

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion
clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)


Well most pound shops sell 500g tubs of sodium chlorate which makes
upto
20lt
water/spray weedkiller.
There just isn't anything diy cheaper Or more effective then this.



But it will wipe out all vegetation without selection and there will be
a period of time when one can't replant.

That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .

I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:

"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."


That's only relevant if you mix it at full strength and apply it with a
watering can drenching everything including the soil, which makes it ideal
for paths and driveways.
If you apply it sparingly only on the plants you want to zap,then remove the
foliage once it has died back the soil is good to plant within weeks,{1}

I know this as fact as I have used it like this for many years on property
development gardens and our own.
Glyphosate will also zap everything it touches if used indiscriminately but
does not remain active in the soil, its also substantially more expensive.

{1} NOT vegetables or anything edible, IMHO all kitchen gardens should be
100pc organic and herbicide free


-

In message , Pet -
www.GymRatZ.co.uk writes
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)

Cheers
Pete


Difficult. Depends exactly what you want.

I've lived in this house for 5 years, at the back is a new patio (2
years or so) and at the front is a tatty old broken concrete and crazy
paving driveway (30 years or so).

My experiences.....

Weedol - expensive but quick results killing whatever you spray.
Unfortunately things grow back (or are replaced) just as quick.

Sodium Chlorate - Was told this is "the stuff". Well I bought a 1Kg tub
3 years ago, have been regularly spraying the various areas and to be
honest, there is not much difference. The impression I get is that
Weedol kills existing weeds but Sodium Chlorate stops new ones from
growing. I don't think the SC actually works that well. After three
years I am still out there with Weedol aswell.

This year, I've taken a completely different route. Weedkillers are
expensive so I've managed to get 5l of Roundup Amenity (Pro Biactive).
It isn't as quick as Weedol but it seems to be more effective in the
longer term at stopping their regrowth. "Amenity" is what the councils
buy.

I have also applied Jeyes Fluid liberally over the patio and driveway
(about 100ml per 10l). Everything stunk of disinfectant for a few days,
but to be honest with the combination of Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes,
our drive and patio are cleaner and more free of weeds than they have
ever been.

I'll know more in 12 months time, but from this early experience,
Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes are the way to go.


Hth
Bill

P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).

Someone

In ,
typed:
On 8 May,
fred wrote:

"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing
all green plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may
persist in soil for 6 months to 5 years, depending on rate
applied, soil type, fertility, organic matter, moisture, and
weather conditions. It is highly toxic to animals and humans,
breaking down red blood cells."

It also makes weeds highly flammable, which a handyman at work
found out to his detrement, even though he had been warned. He
always liked a bonfire, but this particular one was quick and
spectacular.

I bet that was a few years ago tho'. AFAIK weedkillers have been 'doctored'
now to prevent 'people' from creating spectacular pyrotechnics.

Don.

somebody wrote:
In message , Pet -
www.GymRatZ.co.uk writes
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
is what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
beating up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)

Cheers
Pete


Difficult. Depends exactly what you want.

I've lived in this house for 5 years, at the back is a new patio (2
years or so) and at the front is a tatty old broken concrete and crazy
paving driveway (30 years or so).

My experiences.....

Weedol - expensive but quick results killing whatever you spray.
Unfortunately things grow back (or are replaced) just as quick.

Sodium Chlorate - Was told this is "the stuff". Well I bought a 1Kg tub
3 years ago, have been regularly spraying the various areas and to be
honest, there is not much difference. The impression I get is that
Weedol kills existing weeds but Sodium Chlorate stops new ones from
growing. I don't think the SC actually works that well. After three
years I am still out there with Weedol aswell.

This year, I've taken a completely different route. Weedkillers are
expensive so I've managed to get 5l of Roundup Amenity (Pro Biactive).
It isn't as quick as Weedol but it seems to be more effective in the
longer term at stopping their regrowth. "Amenity" is what the councils buy.

I have also applied Jeyes Fluid liberally over the patio and driveway
(about 100ml per 10l). Everything stunk of disinfectant for a few days,
but to be honest with the combination of Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes,
our drive and patio are cleaner and more free of weeds than they have
ever been.

I'll know more in 12 months time, but from this early experience,
Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes are the way to go.


Hth
Bill

P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).

Someone

Anyone got experience with the dreaded Japanese Knotweed? Is it just a
case of repeated applications over the next decade or so?

stuart noble wrote:
somebody wrote:
In message , Pet -
www.GymRatZ.co.uk writes
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
is what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
beating up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:¬)

Cheers
Pete


Difficult. Depends exactly what you want.

I've lived in this house for 5 years, at the back is a new patio (2
years or so) and at the front is a tatty old broken concrete and crazy
paving driveway (30 years or so).

My experiences.....

Weedol - expensive but quick results killing whatever you spray.
Unfortunately things grow back (or are replaced) just as quick.

Sodium Chlorate - Was told this is "the stuff". Well I bought a 1Kg
tub 3 years ago, have been regularly spraying the various areas and to
be honest, there is not much difference. The impression I get is that
Weedol kills existing weeds but Sodium Chlorate stops new ones from
growing. I don't think the SC actually works that well. After three
years I am still out there with Weedol aswell.

This year, I've taken a completely different route. Weedkillers are
expensive so I've managed to get 5l of Roundup Amenity (Pro Biactive).
It isn't as quick as Weedol but it seems to be more effective in the
longer term at stopping their regrowth. "Amenity" is what the councils
buy.

I have also applied Jeyes Fluid liberally over the patio and driveway
(about 100ml per 10l). Everything stunk of disinfectant for a few
days, but to be honest with the combination of Roundup Probiactive and
Jeyes, our drive and patio are cleaner and more free of weeds than
they have ever been.

I'll know more in 12 months time, but from this early experience,
Roundup Probiactive and Jeyes are the way to go.


Hth
Bill

P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).

Someone

Anyone got experience with the dreaded Japanese Knotweed? Is it just a
case of repeated applications over the next decade or so?
SC does not do for me what is claimed. I don't know if the SC flame
retarded, which is all you can buy now, is not as effective but I douse
my paviours with a strong solution from time to time. True it kills all
known weeds, dead, however the blighters regrow within a few weeks.

Tim Lamb wrote:

Would regular paraffin do the same job I wonder as I still have a few
gallons left in the tank from the the days our shop was a hardware store.

You may joke but true. In my youth (don't ask) tractor vapourising oil
(green paraffin) was used to kill broad leaved weeds in germinated carrots!

I wonder which would be more effective..
Fine spray or ignited fine spray.

I certainly have a few great ideas to try now though.

Thanks everyone for input.

Cheers
Pete
--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

In article , Mark
writes

fred wrote in message ...

That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .

I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:

"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."


That's only relevant if you mix it at full strength and apply it with a
watering can drenching everything including the soil, which makes it ideal
for paths and driveways.
If you apply it sparingly only on the plants you want to zap,then remove the
foliage once it has died back the soil is good to plant within weeks,{1}

I know this as fact as I have used it like this for many years on property
development gardens and our own.
Glyphosate will also zap everything it touches if used indiscriminately but
does not remain active in the soil, its also substantially more expensive.

{1} NOT vegetables or anything edible, IMHO all kitchen gardens should be
100pc organic and herbicide free

Thanks for the extra info, it seems if used carefully it is not as bad
as I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted
borders.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is what
I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating up a
few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)

All ideas welcome.
:�)

Cheers
Pete

Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.

Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
non-toxic.

Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.


NT

wrote:

Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.

The flamegun X300 claims a temp. of 2000 degrees when up to speed.
The way I now understand weed control is that if you repeatedly remove the
stuff above the surface you reduce the amount of nutrients transfered to the
root and it gradually exhausts energy stores making re-growth weaker each time.

Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
non-toxic.

Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.

It amazes me just quite what weeds can actually grow through when you see them
pushing up through tarmac etc.

As for Budlia (sp) "trees" they sprout out of chimneys and some of the most
inhospitable and hard to reach places.
(though they aren't part of my problem at the moment)

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for beating
up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)


I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
and/or desire to avoid surrounding grass and plants, then paint on with
a one inch paintbrush. Likewise for buttercups. For painting on, I'd mix
many times stronger than for spray (1:3 or so, as opposed to the normal
1:20); here I'm referring to Gallup 360 brand --- about £20 for five
litres in a farmers' suppliers (about one zillionth of the price of the
watered down equivalent in B&Q or Homebase)

Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too good
for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the introduction of
alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation products. One I
use is Hygeia Hytrol --- marketed as a 'pathclear' ("kills all weeds on
paths and patios for up to one year". I always associated the generic
name 'simazine' with that one, but I see it has Aminotriazole and Diuron
as well.

I once heard a very respected gardener recommending annual *light*
application of simazine for controlling weeds amongst shrubs; sort of
sterilises the first few mm of earth. I've used it in a small rose bed
and it was effective.

Best regards,

Jon C.

Jonathan Campbell wrote:
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
is what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
beating up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)


I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
[...]
Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too good
for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the introduction of
alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation products.

Incidentally, fifty years ago, farmers used sodium chlorate for killing
seed potato plants; seed potatoes were graded by size, so it was
important to let (most of them) them get to the right size and then stop
growth. All very nice for young boys to have hundredweight drums of
sodium chlorate around.

It seems they use sulphuric acid now; even for eating potatoes, I think.

Best regards,

Jon C.

Jonathan Campbell wrote:

I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
[...]
Sodium chlorate has been banned in Ireland for forty years now (too
good for making DIY bangers). So I guess that has led to the
introduction of alternative total kill + temporary soil sterilisation
products.

Incidentally, fifty years ago, farmers used sodium chlorate for killing
seed potato plants; seed potatoes were graded by size, so it was
important to let (most of them) them get to the right size and then stop
growth. All very nice for young boys to have hundredweight drums of
sodium chlorate around.

It seems they use sulphuric acid now; even for eating potatoes, I think.

Many thanks for your post Jonathan.
I've found out quite a bit about weeds over the last 24 hours or so.
:¬)

Cheers
Pete

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

"Owain" wrote in message
news:uvadnY9NStEryb7VRVnyhgA@plusnet...
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
Also... just noticed a thing called a Sheen X300 Flamegun.
Might be another good way of using up some of the Paraffin I have left
over.

Has the advantage of can be used to sterilise the soil so effective
against animal pests as well as plant pests.

Owain

And animal non-pests :-(

Mary

Mary Fisher wrote:

Has the advantage of can be used to sterilise the soil so effective
against animal pests as well as plant pests.

Owain

And animal non-pests :-(

Probably less harmful than chemicals though I shouldn't wonder.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Fitness & Gym Equipment/nutrition specialists.
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk - Bulk buy for up to 33% off.
http://www.BBE-Boxing-Equipment.co.uk - New Boxing Equipment site.
http://www.commercial-gym-equipment.co.uk - Commercial Gym Equipment.

Jonathan Campbell wrote:
Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6
is what I'm after.

Some suggest brown vinegar (hot)
Others say Jays-fluid (if sprayed should it be diluted and to what
ratio?)
Steam Cleaners (don't have one and would be a great expense for
beating up a few weeds)

Dandelions are the worst..
(helped by a 6 year old that likes to tell the time by Dandelion clock)


I'd go for Glyphosate (Roundup) for the dandelions; if a small area
and/or desire to avoid surrounding grass and plants, then paint on with
a one inch paintbrush. Likewise for buttercups. For painting on, I'd mix
many times stronger than for spray (1:3 or so, as opposed to the normal
1:20);

Reminded by mention of the Japanese weed, if you ever need to
permanently kill an unloved but enthusiastic shrub or tree (for example
inappropriately sited sycamores), then some neat glyphosate painted into
a wound will do wonders. Also, a tree surgeon told me recently that a
few drilled holes injected with engine oil (or was it diesel) does the same.

I guess there are many of you with sycamores in neighbouring gardens
cutting out all your light.

Jon C.

wrote in

snip
The very worst garden weed just *has* to be Mare's Tail. The root
systems
spread far and wide and deep underground and a new plant will grow
from the
tiniest root fragment left behind when you dig 'em out. The 'leaves'
(more
like fronds) have a waxy coating which resists spray herbicides.
Once it
has taken hold there is *no* getting rid of it. Trust me on this.
My
garden is full of the *******s. Compared to Mare's Tail, dandelions
are a
stroll in the park with fluffy pink cushions to lie about on.

Anyone who comes up with a means of eradicating this weed from my
garden
will earn my undying admiration and probably a large quantity of beer.

Glyphosate - Roundup or similar - mixed with a little washing up liquid as a
wetting agent. It does work - it did for me anyway - but can take a summer
of repeated application.

If you can get a heavy roller - or a gang of small children - rolled over
the weeds, the leaf surfaces rupture and the weedkiller can enter the leaf
more easily.

Weedkillers with ammonium sulphamate - like Deep Root - were quite effective
against Horsetail (ISTR that Marestail is the stuff that grows in water) but
have now, I believe, been banned. I gather that there's still some to be
had - ebay for instance - but that would be a matter for the individual.

--
PeterMcC
If you feel that any of the above is incorrect,
inappropriate or offensive in any way,
please ignore it and accept my apologies.

somebody wrote in message

P.S. 100ml of Roundup in the sheds can be a fiver. 5l of Roundup in an
agricultural supplier is £55 (and you dilute it approx 1:20 to 1:40).

Someone

p.p.s. 350ml Glyphosate (9.6% ww) in poundland is erm £1
made by Bayer who I think supply B&Q etc own brands


-

wrote in message
...
Thus spake Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk )
unto the assembled multitudes:
Bloody weeds... everywhere!
I have looked around the interweb...
Best DIY solutions for spray-applied stuff that will knock-em for 6 is
what
I'm after.

Dandelions are the worst..

Ohhhhhh no they're not.

The very worst garden weed just *has* to be Mare's Tail. The root systems
spread far and wide and deep underground and a new plant will grow from
the
tiniest root fragment left behind when you dig 'em out. The 'leaves'
(more
like fronds) have a waxy coating which resists spray herbicides. Once it
has taken hold there is *no* getting rid of it. Trust me on this. My
garden is full of the *******s. Compared to Mare's Tail, dandelions are a
stroll in the park with fluffy pink cushions to lie about on.

Anyone who comes up with a means of eradicating this weed from my garden
will earn my undying admiration and probably a large quantity of beer.


moving house is easier

http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0705/equisetum.asp



-

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Mark
writes

fred wrote in message ...

That depends on how selective you are in applying it, the surrounding
vegetation and what you hope to plant to replace the dandelions .

I'd be wary of using it with much hope of selectivity:

"Sodium Chlorate - a non-selective contact herbicide, killing all green
plant parts and has a soil-sterilant effect. It may persist in soil for
6 months to 5 years, depending on rate applied, soil type, fertility,
organic matter, moisture, and weather conditions. It is highly toxic to
animals and humans, breaking down red blood cells."


That's only relevant if you mix it at full strength and apply it with a
watering can drenching everything including the soil, which makes it ideal
for paths and driveways.
If you apply it sparingly only on the plants you want to zap,then remove
the
foliage once it has died back the soil is good to plant within weeks,{1}

I know this as fact as I have used it like this for many years on
property
development gardens and our own.
Glyphosate will also zap everything it touches if used indiscriminately
but
does not remain active in the soil, its also substantially more expensive.

{1} NOT vegetables or anything edible, IMHO all kitchen gardens should be
100pc organic and herbicide free

Thanks for the extra info, it seems if used carefully it is not as bad as
I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted borders.

I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to a
very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be damp,
make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
in the mixture.

You need to look at the weather forecast up front as you do not want a
downpour just after doing this.

Adam

In article , ARWadworth
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...

Thanks for the extra info, it seems if used carefully it is not as bad as
I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted borders.

I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to a
very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be damp,
make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
in the mixture.

That's a surprise, thanks for the info.

BTW, was it a feud or a favour?
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , ARWadworth
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...

Thanks for the extra info, it seems if used carefully it is not as bad
as
I thought. I was a bit worried too about leeching and spread into
adjoining areas and plan to still keep it off banks above planted
borders.

I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to
a
very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be
damp,
make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
in the mixture.

That's a surprise, thanks for the info.

BTW, was it a feud or a favour?

Feud.

It took a couple of months for the trees to turn start turning brown. They
conifers were finally dead in six months.

Adam

In article , ARWadworth
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , ARWadworth
writes


I know someone who used several tubs of sodium chlorate that was mixed to
a
very high concentration (ie just enought water to dissolve the stuff) and
was able to kill his neighbours conifers without damaging his own copper
beech trees that stood a few feet away. You need the ground soil to be
damp,
make some holes around the conifer's trunk using 15mm copper and then pour
in the mixture.

That's a surprise, thanks for the info.

BTW, was it a feud or a favour?

Feud.

Ah, best not to know the full story I'm sure

It took a couple of months for the trees to turn start turning brown. They
conifers were finally dead in six months.

Useful info again, ta
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs

On 09/05/2008 20:57, fred wrote:

Ah, best not to know the full story I'm sure

After previous reports from Adam's road, perhaps not :-)

Pet - www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
wrote:

Someone mentioned flame throwers. IME they're not very effective,
and a little reading shows that they need to be much higher power
than the usual DIY/gardener ones to be properly effective.

The flamegun X300 claims a temp. of 2000 degrees when up to speed.
The way I now understand weed control is that if you repeatedly remove the
stuff above the surface you reduce the amount of nutrients transfered to the
root and it gradually exhausts energy stores making re-growth weaker each time.

Yes, but this strategy isnt really effective. Every gardener knows
that cutting weeds down, pulling them up, tilling them etc is an
ongoing frequent chore that never wins.

All flame throwers have high flame temps fwiw, flames are hot, but
that alone still doesnt make them effective. It seems plants are
remarkably resilient to partial boiling.


Strange that no-one's mentioned salt yet, works like chlorate but
non-toxic.

Cement is another trick, rake it into the soil surface, press it down
and plants cant grow, the soil surface is too hard.

It amazes me just quite what weeds can actually grow through when you see them
pushing up through tarmac etc.

As for Budlia (sp) "trees" they sprout out of chimneys and some of the most
inhospitable and hard to reach places.
(though they aren't part of my problem at the moment)

Yes! My experiments with cement were remarkably effective, but
I'm sure something would have called it home at some point. Maybe
altered pH has some effect too. Cement is actually used as a
fertiliser sometimes, as it contains some minerals, so perhaps
there was some effect from the mineral imbalance caused as well.

Wood ash wipes out weeds too, simply because its so high in
potash, but once it dilutes down after a few years the plants finally
love the minerals.


NT