I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn
it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time.
The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan
only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but
if I turn it to A/C
the compressor kicks in right away.
Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together?
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 10, 7:53*am, " wrote:
I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn
it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time.
The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan
only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but
if I turn it to A/C
the compressor kicks in right away.
Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together?
Thanks, Tony

I had a bad double capacitor do that to me once on a full size split
system. The power for the fan was backfeeding through the capacitor
to the compressor.

Need to look at the circuit and start checking things out with a
meter. Often the circuit diagram is inside the housing somewhere.

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck. Or, more correctly, the
electrical contacts within the thermostat.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn
it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time.
The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan
only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but
if I turn it to A/C
the compressor kicks in right away.
Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together?
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 10, 10:09*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck. Or, more correctly, the
electrical contacts within the thermostat.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...
I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn
it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time.
The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan
only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but
if I turn it to A/C
the compressor kicks in right away.
Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together?
Thanks, Tony

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 10, 10:11*am, " wrote:

snip

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?

Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the
contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are
your problem could be gone.

Joe

On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:17:16 -0700, Joe wrote:

On Jul 10, 10:11Â*am, " wrote:

snip

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?

Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the
contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are your
problem could be gone.

Joe

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those are
fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have some
extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click from low
to high?

OK, so your saying a relay and not the thermostat itself?
I will have to get some help removing this unit, as it's pretty big
and heavy.
I am assuming I have to remove the outer cover/shell.
Will there be just 1 relay in there?
I should be able to open the relay and see if it's stuck or burnt
together.
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 10, 11:17*am, Joe wrote:
On Jul 10, 10:11*am, " wrote:

snip
OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?

Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the
contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are
your problem could be gone.

Joe

On Jul 10, 11:46*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
snip

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those are
fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have some
extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click from low
to high?
No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled
1-10.

Thanks, Tony

On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 10, 11:46Â*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
snip

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those
are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have
some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click
from low to high?
No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled 1-10.

Thanks, Tony

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it
might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of
the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck
relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors
so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.

On Jul 10, 12:13*pm, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 10, 11:46*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
snip
Yes, Might have just been the mechanics inside the thermostat
clicking , I don't know for sure, But I opened it up, and can see a
burnt (slightly) plastic piece in there, and can see where the
contacts are burnt, although they were not welded together when I took
it apart, I can see where they probably were.
With the t-Stat disconnected, the compressor does not run, with the
wires (2) jumped out the compressor runs.
So it looks like that's what the problem is.
Thanks for the help.
I have to try to find a new T-Stat now, the "Appliance connection"
store in town is closed already.
This is a Emerson Quiet Cool, Model # 24GD44 and there ate numbers on
the old T-stat. See pictures here.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...tat004Save.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...tat008Save.jpg
Thanks, Tony
I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those
are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have
some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click
from low to high?
No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled 1-10..

Thanks, Tony

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it
might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of
the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck
relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors
so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.

On Jul 10, 1:13*pm, " wrote:
On Jul 10, 12:13*pm, Jeff The Drunk wrote: On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 10, 11:46*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
snip

Yes, Might have just been the *mechanics inside the thermostat
clicking , I don't know for sure, But I opened it up, and can see a
burnt (slightly) plastic piece in there, and can see where the
contacts are burnt, although they were not welded together when I took
it apart, I can see where they probably were.
With the t-Stat disconnected, the compressor does not run, with the
wires (2) jumped out the compressor runs.
So it looks like that's what the problem is.
Thanks for the help.
I have to try to find a new T-Stat now, the "Appliance connection"
store in town is closed already.
This is a Emerson Quiet Cool, Model # 24GD44 and there ate numbers on
the old T-stat. See pictures here.http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...load%20and%20f...
Thanks, Tony



I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those
are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have
some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click
from low to high?
No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled 1-10.

Thanks, Tony

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it
might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of
the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck
relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors
so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A good appliance parts store like we have nearby in the Chicago
suburbs can probably cross-match the thermostat to another one. Where
are you located?

On Jul 10, 3:16*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Jul 10, 1:13*pm, " wrote:



On Jul 10, 12:13*pm, Jeff The Drunk wrote: On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, wrote:
On Jul 10, 11:46*am, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
snip

Yes, Might have just been the *mechanics inside the thermostat
clicking , I don't know for sure, But I opened it up, and can see a
burnt (slightly) plastic piece in there, and can see where the
contacts are burnt, although they were not welded together when I took
it apart, I can see where they probably were.
With the t-Stat disconnected, the compressor does not run, with the
wires (2) jumped out the compressor runs.
So it looks like that's what the problem is.
Thanks for the help.
I have to try to find a new T-Stat now, the "Appliance connection"
store in town is closed already.
This is a Emerson Quiet Cool, Model # 24GD44 and there ate numbers on
the old T-stat. See pictures here.http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...load%20and%20f......
Thanks, Tony

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those
are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have
some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click
from low to high?
No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled 1-10.

Thanks, Tony

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it
might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of
the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck
relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors
so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A good appliance parts store like we have nearby in the Chicago
suburbs can probably cross-match the thermostat to another one. *Where
are you located?

I am Near Wheeling WV. We have a Appliance connection (the name of it)
in town I will check with to try to get the best price. Repair
Clinic .com has it for $45.00 plus shipping.
Thanks, Tony

Yes, very possible. You could dissemble, and check for continuity at
the stat, and then rotate the knob. See if continuity makes and
breaks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?
Thanks, Tony

Stat itself; no relay.
Access from front.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
OK, so your saying a relay and not the thermostat itself?
I will have to get some help removing this unit, as it's pretty big
and heavy.
I am assuming I have to remove the outer cover/shell.
Will there be just 1 relay in there?
I should be able to open the relay and see if it's stuck or burnt
together.
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 10, 11:17 am, Joe wrote:
On Jul 10, 10:11 am, "
wrote:

snip
OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?

Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the
contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are
your problem could be gone.

Joe

On Jul 10, 7:31*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Yes, very possible. You could dissemble, and check for continuity at
the stat, and then rotate the knob. See if continuity makes and
breaks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the
thermostat) from low to high?
Thanks, Tony

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...qSmnJaq beoeA
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...osZE618_O-zBpQ
Thanks, Tony

Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture,
but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big
loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...


Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...qSmnJaq beoeA
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...osZE618_O-zBpQ
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 11, 8:24*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture,
but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big
loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...t.com/albums/c...
Thanks, Tony

This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one
in the 110V unit yet.
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 12, 1:30*pm, " wrote:
On Jul 11, 8:24*pm, "Stormin Mormon"



wrote:
Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture,
but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big
loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

....

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...t.com/albums/c......
Thanks, Tony

This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one
in the 110V unit yet.
Thanks, Tony

Well Maybe I better not!?
The 220 Volt unit states;
20/20 FLA
80/80 LRA
120/277
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ec220VUnit.jpg

Where the 110 Volt Unit states
12/6 FLA
60/30 LRA
120/240
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...cs110VUnit.jpg
Looks like the T stat from the 110 Volt unit may not be able to handle
the amps.

Thanks, Tony

On Jul 12, 2:42*pm, " wrote:
On Jul 12, 1:30*pm, " wrote:



On Jul 11, 8:24*pm, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture,
but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big
loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

....

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...t.com/albums/c......
Thanks, Tony

This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one
in the 110V unit yet.
Thanks, Tony

Well Maybe I better not!?
The 220 Volt unit states;
20/20 FLA
80/80 LRA
120/277http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20f...

Where the 110 Volt Unit states
12/6 FLA
60/30 LRA
120/240http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20f...
Looks like the T stat from the 110 Volt unit may not be able to handle
the amps.

Thanks, Tony

I ordered the T-Stat today from repair clinic.com,and it will be here
tomorrow they said. That is quick!
I just put the 110 volt T-Stat back in the 110 Volt unit and put it in
another window for now. It's nowhere as powerful as the 220 unit, But
I can cool the room with the 220 Volt unit (T-Stat jumped out) and use
the little one to maintain the temperature.

Question;
There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit,
can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do
I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb.
Thanks, Tony

Most likely, it will work. Can't guarantee the 110 volt stat is safe
with 220 volt power.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one
in the 110V unit yet.
Thanks, Tony

LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) is onlly an issue if the compressor motor
jams. However, the lower amp rating suggests the 110 volt thermostat
might not have sturdy enough electrical contacts. The worst that could
happen, the contacts might weld shut and you'd have a second
thermostat that's bad.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
On Jul 12, 1:30 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 11, 8:24 pm, "Stormin Mormon"



wrote:
Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your
picture,
but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big
loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my
post
above with the
pictures.http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=htt...t.com/albums/c......
Thanks, Tony

This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I
get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the
one
in the 110V unit yet.
Thanks, Tony

Well Maybe I better not!?
The 220 Volt unit states;
20/20 FLA
80/80 LRA
120/277
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ec220VUnit.jpg

Where the 110 Volt Unit states
12/6 FLA
60/30 LRA
120/240
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...cs110VUnit.jpg
Looks like the T stat from the 110 Volt unit may not be able to handle
the amps.

Thanks, Tony

It's my experience with motor run caps, they don't hold a charge after
the unit is turned off. If you're concerned, short the leads to each
other, not to ground.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

Question;
There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit,
can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do
I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb.
Thanks, Tony

On Jul 13, 8:47*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
It's my experience with motor run caps, they don't hold a charge after
the unit is turned off. If you're concerned, short the leads to each
other, not to ground.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org


news:
...

Question;
There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit,
can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do
I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb.
Thanks, Tony

Ok Thanks Christopher, I'll do that just to be safe.
Thanks, Tony