Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Higgs Boson wrote:
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?
Hmmm,
Typically door bell works off 24V AC, try to find the transformer
feeding the door bell. Mine is mounted on the side of breaker panel box.
Even if you don't turn it off, I doubt 24V AC will kill you if touched.

On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.

controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

On Nov 21, 12:06*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. *AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.

controls the doorbell? *I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". *It rings in the
kitchen. *Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.
How cope?

On 11/21/2009 12:19 PM Higgs Boson spake thus:

On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.

controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.

Welllll, that's true in *theory*. But probably lots of folks have been
hurt (or even killed) when theoretically impossible.

Just to be clear, there are two issues he

1. Whether or not you can get shocked by just touching one wire of a
circuit.
2. Low voltage vs. high voltage.

First issue: yes, in theory if you touch only the hot wire of a circuit,
you won't get shocked. (Works for birds sitting on powerline wires, for
instance). Problem is there are other sneaky way of the circuit
completing itself, like through damp ground, your shoes and your feet.
So the best policy is to never touch *any* wires (energized ones, that is).

Second issue: As I said, doorbells operate on low voltage (somewhere in
the range of 12 to 24 volts AC). Getting shocked by such low voltages is
a lot safer than high voltage (like the 120 volts in your household
wiring). While it is theoretically possible to get electrocuted from
even a low-voltage shock, it's unlikely. So it's safer messing around
with low-voltage wiring that may be live than high-voltage wiring. Still
not recommended (see best policy above).


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
Still do.

controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?
Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.
How cope?

I'd just wire it hot, since it is likely only 16v. But if that concept
bothers you, you need to figure out where the transformer is. When I was
a kid and we built houses the cave-man way, we always put the
transformer near the service panel, to make future swapouts easy. In
this place I am now, I found the damn thing in the attic, hung off the
J-box that feeds the bathroom and hall ceiling light. Turn that breaker
off, and doorbell is off.

When they make me benign dictator of the planet, I am going to require
that GCs, electricians, plumbers, etc, map out whatever they do, and
leave a legible rot-resistant diagram in a water-tight container screwed
to the wall next to the service panel. Breaker maps, path of wiring and
plumbing runs, location of any item with a lifespan less than the house
itself.

--
aem sends....

On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:33:28 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 11/21/2009 12:19 PM Higgs Boson spake thus:

On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.

controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.

Welllll, that's true in *theory*. But probably lots of folks have been
hurt (or even killed) when theoretically impossible.

Just to be clear, there are two issues he

1. Whether or not you can get shocked by just touching one wire of a
circuit.
2. Low voltage vs. high voltage.

First issue: yes, in theory if you touch only the hot wire of a circuit,
you won't get shocked. (Works for birds sitting on powerline wires, for
instance). Problem is there are other sneaky way of the circuit
completing itself, like through damp ground, your shoes and your feet.
So the best policy is to never touch *any* wires (energized ones, that is).

Second issue: As I said, doorbells operate on low voltage (somewhere in
the range of 12 to 24 volts AC). Getting shocked by such low voltages is
a lot safer than high voltage (like the 120 volts in your household
wiring). While it is theoretically possible to get electrocuted from
even a low-voltage shock, it's unlikely. So it's safer messing around
with low-voltage wiring that may be live than high-voltage wiring. Still
not recommended (see best policy above).

I cannot recall the exact details, but I'm sure it had to do with
moisture. Working on a 12V truck battery, I got "bit". Not sure what
was touched by the tools or the wetness and leaning against the truck
fender.

I was "shocked" it could happen. Hasn't happened since.

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:33:28 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:


On 11/21/2009 12:19 PM Higgs Boson spake thus:


On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:


Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.


controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.

Welllll, that's true in *theory*. But probably lots of folks have been
hurt (or even killed) when theoretically impossible.

Just to be clear, there are two issues he

1. Whether or not you can get shocked by just touching one wire of a
circuit.
2. Low voltage vs. high voltage.

First issue: yes, in theory if you touch only the hot wire of a circuit,
you won't get shocked. (Works for birds sitting on powerline wires, for
instance). Problem is there are other sneaky way of the circuit
completing itself, like through damp ground, your shoes and your feet.
So the best policy is to never touch *any* wires (energized ones, that is).

Second issue: As I said, doorbells operate on low voltage (somewhere in
the range of 12 to 24 volts AC). Getting shocked by such low voltages is
a lot safer than high voltage (like the 120 volts in your household
wiring). While it is theoretically possible to get electrocuted from
even a low-voltage shock, it's unlikely. So it's safer messing around
with low-voltage wiring that may be live than high-voltage wiring. Still
not recommended (see best policy above).


I cannot recall the exact details, but I'm sure it had to do with
moisture. Working on a 12V truck battery, I got "bit". Not sure what
was touched by the tools or the wetness and leaning against the truck
fender.

I was "shocked" it could happen. Hasn't happened since.

Didja ever try simultaneously touching both contacts of a little 9 volt
"transistor radio" battery with your tongue?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:52:41 -0500, jeff_wisnia
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:33:28 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:


On 11/21/2009 12:19 PM Higgs Boson spake thus:


On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:


Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.


controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.

Welllll, that's true in *theory*. But probably lots of folks have been
hurt (or even killed) when theoretically impossible.

Just to be clear, there are two issues he

1. Whether or not you can get shocked by just touching one wire of a
circuit.
2. Low voltage vs. high voltage.

First issue: yes, in theory if you touch only the hot wire of a circuit,
you won't get shocked. (Works for birds sitting on powerline wires, for
instance). Problem is there are other sneaky way of the circuit
completing itself, like through damp ground, your shoes and your feet.
So the best policy is to never touch *any* wires (energized ones, that is).

Second issue: As I said, doorbells operate on low voltage (somewhere in
the range of 12 to 24 volts AC). Getting shocked by such low voltages is
a lot safer than high voltage (like the 120 volts in your household
wiring). While it is theoretically possible to get electrocuted from
even a low-voltage shock, it's unlikely. So it's safer messing around
with low-voltage wiring that may be live than high-voltage wiring. Still
not recommended (see best policy above).


I cannot recall the exact details, but I'm sure it had to do with
moisture. Working on a 12V truck battery, I got "bit". Not sure what
was touched by the tools or the wetness and leaning against the truck
fender.

I was "shocked" it could happen. Hasn't happened since.

Didja ever try simultaneously touching both contacts of a little 9 volt
"transistor radio" battery with your tongue?

Jeff

How else would I test them :-|/

jeff_wisnia wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:33:28 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:


On 11/21/2009 12:19 PM Higgs Boson spake thus:


On Nov 21, 12:06 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 11/21/2009 11:51 AM Higgs Boson spake thus:


Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,

Still do.


controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Could be on any breaker; no official rule for where to put a doorbell.

Probably several ways to skin this cat. One would be to put a
voltmeter
on the transformer (that's the thing that supplies low voltage
power--typically 16-24 volts--to the actual doorbell) and flip
breakers
until it goes to zero volts (assuming the transformer works). Probably
the safest way; that secondary (low-voltage) side of the transformer
isn't going to hurt you if you get shocked by it.

Friend told me that if I just touch one wire at a time, I won't get
shocked.
T/F? Makes sense ; circuit not completed; but hard to isolate wires
in small space.

Welllll, that's true in *theory*. But probably lots of folks have
been hurt (or even killed) when theoretically impossible.

Just to be clear, there are two issues he

1. Whether or not you can get shocked by just touching one wire of a
circuit.
2. Low voltage vs. high voltage.

First issue: yes, in theory if you touch only the hot wire of a
circuit, you won't get shocked. (Works for birds sitting on powerline
wires, for instance). Problem is there are other sneaky way of the
circuit completing itself, like through damp ground, your shoes and
your feet. So the best policy is to never touch *any* wires
(energized ones, that is).

Second issue: As I said, doorbells operate on low voltage (somewhere
in the range of 12 to 24 volts AC). Getting shocked by such low
voltages is a lot safer than high voltage (like the 120 volts in your
household wiring). While it is theoretically possible to get
electrocuted from even a low-voltage shock, it's unlikely. So it's
safer messing around with low-voltage wiring that may be live than
high-voltage wiring. Still not recommended (see best policy above).


I cannot recall the exact details, but I'm sure it had to do with
moisture. Working on a 12V truck battery, I got "bit". Not sure what
was touched by the tools or the wetness and leaning against the truck
fender.

I was "shocked" it could happen. Hasn't happened since.

Didja ever try simultaneously touching both contacts of a little 9 volt
"transistor radio" battery with your tongue?

Jeff


You should try sticking a 98 volt battery to your forehead.
There is a little sting to it but the most interesting part
is the disruption to your vision. It's as though a movie
camera shutter was being flicked open and closed at a rapid
rate but slow enough to be perceived, very odd sensation. I
didn't try it with the 525 volt batteries that were used by
my Graflex Stroboflash IV with which I could strike quite
an impressive electric arc. I miss that thing, I could melt
retinas with it and it was fun at parties.

TDD

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

If you do the work in the daytime, you can switch off all of the individual
circuit breakers and leave them off, and then switch off the main breaker.
That will cut off the power to everything in the house, and you can do the
work using daylight to see what you are doing (or use a flashlight, if
needed). When turning the power back on, do the reverse -- switch the main
breaker back on first while all of the individual breakers are off, then
switch each of the individual breakers back on one at a time until they are
all switched back on.

Or, you can do what others have suggested -- just do it while the power is
still on. If you are nervous about doing that, just do it carefully, one
wire at a time. You can even use pliers, wire cutters, and/or a screw
driver that have insulated handles so your hands are not touching metal when
doing the work. It's a low voltage circuit, so it should be no problem even
if you do accidentally touch something. Plus, the doorbell switch itself is
a switch that should keep any power from going to the actual bell unless the
doorbell switch is pressed (assuming it is wired correctly).

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a lot
stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v replaced my
doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot tub touching both
wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty years welding with DC
out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell??? sheesh...just wire it... Jim

"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
...

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a lot
stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v replaced my
doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot tub touching
both wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty years welding
with DC out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell??? sheesh...just wire
it... Jim

Why would it be DC instead of AC? Hardwired doorbells usually have a
step-down transformer that changes higher voltage AC to low voltage AC, but
there is no rectifier that changes the AC to DC.

On Nov 21, 4:10*pm, "JayB" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message

...

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. *AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? *I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". *It rings in the
kitchen. *Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

If you do the work in the daytime, you can switch off all of the individual
circuit breakers and leave them off, and then switch off the main breaker..
That will cut off the power to everything in the house, and you can do the
work using daylight to see what you are doing (or use a flashlight, if
needed). *When turning the power back on, do the reverse -- switch the main
breaker back on first while all of the individual breakers are off, then
switch each of the individual breakers back on one at a time until they are
all switched back on.

Yes, of course -- that is the "cowardly" G way out. I just didn't
want to go
around resetting a houseful of clocks and appliances.

Or, you can do what others have suggested -- just do it while the power is
still on. *If you are nervous about doing that, just do it carefully, one
wire at a time. *You can even use pliers, wire cutters, and/or a screw
driver that have insulated handles so your hands are not touching metal when
doing the work. *It's a low voltage circuit, so it should be no problem even
if you do accidentally touch something. *Plus, the doorbell switch itself is
a switch that should keep any power from going to the actual bell unless the
doorbell switch is pressed (assuming it is wired correctly).

Will mull over all the good advice. I realize this to you-all is a
trivial job,
so I much appreciate the un-condescending attitudes of
kind posters.

"JayB" wrote in message
...
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
...

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a lot
stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v replaced my
doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot tub touching
both wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty years welding
with DC out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell??? sheesh...just wire
it... Jim

Why would it be DC instead of AC? Hardwired doorbells usually have a
step-down transformer that changes higher voltage AC to low voltage AC,
but there is no rectifier that changes the AC to DC.

No Jay... to convert AC to DC would require a rectifier...to convert DC
to AC requires a converter... Jim

On 11/21/2009 4:40 PM Jim spake thus:

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...

Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a
lot stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v
replaced my doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my
hot tub
touching both
wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty years welding
with DC
out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell??? sheesh...just wire
it... Jim

Doorbells operate on AC, not DC.

And regarding the further conversation regarding conversion, etc., the
only conversion going on is the stepping-down to low voltage AC by the
transformer. (AC-- AC) No rectifiers used here.


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

On 11/21/2009 5:37 PM Jim spake thus:

"JayB" wrote in message
...

"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
...

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a lot
stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v replaced my
doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot tub touching
both wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty years welding
with DC out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell??? sheesh...just wire
it... Jim

Why would it be DC instead of AC? Hardwired doorbells usually have a
step-down transformer that changes higher voltage AC to low voltage AC,
but there is no rectifier that changes the AC to DC.

No Jay... to convert AC to DC would require a rectifier...to convert DC
to AC requires a converter...

That's true (the latter is usually called an inverter, but whatever),
but the thing is that doorbells (99% of the ones found in houses)
operate on AC, not DC.


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
el...

"JayB" wrote in message
...
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
...

Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a
lot stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v
replaced my doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot
tub touching both wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty
years welding with DC out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell???
sheesh...just wire it... Jim

Why would it be DC instead of AC? Hardwired doorbells usually have a
step-down transformer that changes higher voltage AC to low voltage AC,
but there is no rectifier that changes the AC to DC.

No Jay... to convert AC to DC would require a rectifier...to convert DC
to AC requires a converter... Jim


I think that's what I said -- that there is no rectifier in the doorbell
system to change the house AC to DC for the doorbell. So, the doorbell
operates on AC, not DC.

You wrote that the OP shouldn't worry because "It's DC". I was just
pointing out that it is not DC that is powering the doorbell.

On Nov 21, 7:51*pm, "JayB" wrote:
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message

el...







"JayB" wrote in message
...
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
...

* Wouldn't worry about where it is connected...It's DC ...I've used a
lot stronger DC voltage while being underwater...no worries...I'v
replaced my doorbell hot outside in the rain... Hell i'd sit in my hot
tub touching both wires at the same time.. Been a rig welder of thirty
years welding with DC out on a pipeline in the rain... a doorbell???
sheesh...just wire it... Jim

Why would it be DC instead of AC? *Hardwired doorbells usually have a
step-down transformer that changes higher voltage AC to low voltage AC,
but there is no rectifier that changes the AC to DC.

No Jay... to convert AC to DC would require a rectifier...to convert DC
to AC requires a converter... Jim

I think that's what I said -- that there is no rectifier in the doorbell
system to change the house AC to DC for the doorbell. *So, the doorbell
operates on AC, not DC.

You wrote that the OP shouldn't worry because "It's DC". *I was just
pointing out that it is not DC that is powering the doorbell.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not use common sense. Turn off half the breakers and see if the
old doorbell still works. If it does not, then replace it and turn
those breakers on. If the doorbell still works, turn those 1/2
breakers on and turn the other 1/2 off. That should stop the doorbell
from working if it is on a breaker. Then replace the bell.

It is only 24 V at most on the secondary of the transformer if it is
anywhere in the USA and will not kill you. The biggest problem is
that if you get a shock you may make a sudden move and hurt your hand
on something. But, to get a shock you have to have both wires
energized, and that only happens when someone pushes the doorbell
button, so keep eeryone who does not like you from pushing the
doorbell pushbutton.

Tony Hwang wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?
Hmmm,
Typically door bell works off 24V AC, try to find the transformer
feeding the door bell. Mine is mounted on the side of breaker panel
box.

Mine was mounted up in the attic in a random spot. Spotted it when I was
running wire one day.

Jon

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Jumper the switch and then flip breakers until the noise stops.

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Jumper the switch and then flip breakers until the noise stops.


Most doorbells I have worked on, that won't work. Energize the circuit,
and it rings once. The hammer in the doorbell doesn't retract until the
current stops. It would work for a simple buzzer, though.

--
aem sends...

On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:06:29 -0500, aemeijers
wrote:

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
Am about to replace hideous doorbell. AFAIK, I just have to unscrew
tthe old one and attach the new one to the wires.
BUT - how do I know which "breaker" as they used to call them,
controls the doorbell? I looked in my switch box, where I have
everything labeled, but did not see "doorbell". It rings in the
kitchen. Anybody hazard a guess where it might be connected?

Jumper the switch and then flip breakers until the noise stops.


Most doorbells I have worked on, that won't work. Energize the circuit,
and it rings once. The hammer in the doorbell doesn't retract until the
current stops. It would work for a simple buzzer, though.

If you have that kind, you could turn breakers off one at a time until
you hear the "dong".

Or you could connect a buzzer for this purpose.

BTW, A neighbor had a problem in that she couldn't tell the difference
between "ding dong" for the front door and "ding" for the back door
(or the "ding ding" that happens with over-excited button pushers). I
added a buzzer across the front door solenoid. The only buzzer I had
at the time was a DC pulsating buzzer. After adding the rectifier and
capacitor, she had a unique doorbell. It sounds the same for the back
door, but for the front you hear "ding dong" along with a
non-confusable "BEEP-BEEP-beep-beep-bip-bip". That house has been sold
twice since then and that thing is still there.
--
33 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"How could you ask me to believe in God when there's
absolutely no evidence that I can see?" -- Jodie Foster

The Daring Dufas wrote:

You should try sticking a 98 volt battery to your forehead.
There is a little sting to it but the most interesting part
is the disruption to your vision. It's as though a movie
camera shutter was being flicked open and closed at a rapid
rate but slow enough to be perceived, very odd sensation.

The worst shock I got was while working on an old cigarette machine. It
was getting an electronic upgrade, so I unplugged it and was using some
special taps that you squeeze over another wire to tap into it. It was
hard to reach what I was doing, my sweating forehead was up against some
nice shiny chrome and my sweaty hands were on my pliers. Holy ****! I
did indeed see a bright white light! I believe it was the electric
flowing through the general area of my eyes nerves, not to mention my
brain. The path was from my hands to my forehead. Sweaty hands and
skin greatly multiplies the amount of current that flows. I was dazed
for a little while until I realized where I was again. Yep, the
bartender had plugged in the cigarette machine for me. Thanks MFer. So
next time I write something really stupid, that's my excuse.

Tony wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:

You should try sticking a 98 volt battery to your forehead.
There is a little sting to it but the most interesting part
is the disruption to your vision. It's as though a movie
camera shutter was being flicked open and closed at a rapid
rate but slow enough to be perceived, very odd sensation.

The worst shock I got was while working on an old cigarette machine. It
was getting an electronic upgrade, so I unplugged it and was using some
special taps that you squeeze over another wire to tap into it. It was
hard to reach what I was doing, my sweating forehead was up against some
nice shiny chrome and my sweaty hands were on my pliers. Holy ****! I
did indeed see a bright white light! I believe it was the electric
flowing through the general area of my eyes nerves, not to mention my
brain. The path was from my hands to my forehead. Sweaty hands and
skin greatly multiplies the amount of current that flows. I was dazed
for a little while until I realized where I was again. Yep, the
bartender had plugged in the cigarette machine for me. Thanks MFer. So
next time I write something really stupid, that's my excuse.

In the summertime I tend to sweat like a thunderstorm, there are
usually a few puddles around where I'm working and it's not due
to incontinence. Anyway, my clothes are always soaking wet and
whenever I work on any kind of electrical equipment, my wet shirt
will inevitably touch a hot or ground and light me up.

TDD

Oren wrote:

I cannot recall the exact details, but I'm sure it had to do with
moisture. Working on a 12V truck battery, I got "bit". Not sure what
was touched by the tools or the wetness and leaning against the truck
fender.

I was "shocked" it could happen. Hasn't happened since.

Sweaty wet hands may have done it, or if you have a little cut you have
been ignoring, 12 volts will remind you. Normally I can put my hands
across a car battery and not feel a thing. When sweating that adds salt
to the moisture and makes a big difference. Plain water isn't really a
great conductor, but the higher the voltage the more dangerous it
becomes. You can actually spill water on a CPU board while it's on and
although it may stop working, it will most likely work again after it's dry.

My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first. Such low voltage.

On 6/14/2018 2:09 PM, wrote:
My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first. Such low voltage.



He's correct. Is there a question here?

To be absolutely safe, just make sure that you're not standing in a tub
of water with the wires wrapped around your naughty parts!

On 6/14/2018 3:09 PM, wrote:
My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first. Such low voltage.

Yes, 24 volts is less likely to electrocute you than 120 volts

and the secondary winding of the transformer is isolated with respect to ground

but would it really take that much effort to just shut the breaker off while you replace the doorbell components?

On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 2:09:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:

My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first. Such low voltage.


Did your electrician also tell you to look at the dates of posts you are
replying to?? Such as this one that is nine (9) years old.

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 14 Jun 2018 18:16:35 -0700 (PDT),
ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:

On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 2:09:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:

My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first. Such low voltage.


Did your electrician also tell you to look at the dates of posts you are
replying to?? Such as this one that is nine (9) years old.

And the OP would have been 39 years old now if he hadn't tried changing
the door bell without turning off the power.

That's why we're having this memorial thread.

On 06/14/2018 05:46 PM, Avogadro wrote:
On 6/14/2018 3:09 PM, wrote:
My electrician said you can change it without turning it off first.
Such low voltage.

Yes, 24 volts is less likely to electrocute you than 120 volts

and if you're just replacing the button the only thing a short can do is
ring the bell.

and the secondary winding of the transformer is isolated with respect to
ground

and has a non-replacable fuse in it, so shorting it may mean you need a
new transformer.

but would it really take that much effort to just shut the breaker off
while you replace the doorbell components?

Especially if you've previously identified the breakers, so you know
which to shut off.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The destroyer of weeds, thistles and thorns is a benefactor whether he
soweth grain or not." --Robert G. Ingersoll

On 06/15/2018 02:31 AM, micky wrote:

[snip]

And the OP would have been 39 years old now if he hadn't tried changing
the door bell without turning off the power.

That's why we're having this memorial thread.

There's a TV show called "Married With Children" where Bud works on a
doorbell button that is not actually off ('o'-something), and it makes
his hair stand up straight :-)

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 15 Jun 2018 12:43:56 -0500, Sam E
wrote:

On 06/15/2018 02:31 AM, micky wrote:

[snip]

And the OP would have been 39 years old now if he hadn't tried changing
the door bell without turning off the power.

That's why we're having this memorial thread.

There's a TV show called "Married With Children" where Bud works on a
doorbell button that is not actually off ('o'-something), and it makes
his hair stand up straight :-)

LOL

Just for the record, for later readers, yes, you don't have to turn of
the 12 or 18 volts used for a doorbell.

Just don't put the wires in your mouth!