After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

John Lynch, 9/7/2006,4:35:38 PM, wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

I have a Ryobi 14.4 drill that came with two batteries, charger and a
flashlight that was ~ $50. I am not a heavy user and it works great
for me. My recommendation is to make sure you get two batteries. You
don't want to wait for the other one two charge while you're building a
deck or something. You may want to make sure it has the new battery
type NiMh or something like that.

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Doesn't that sort of depend on what you need the drill for?
I mean, Mine is a hand-powered bit-brace.

"John Lynch" wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided
to buy a portable drill.

Like everybody else, you will love it.

What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has one going
on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

If you want cheap, you won't get the best features.

.... a switch to lock out the clutch, so you don't have to rotate all
the way around to the drill setting... if you don't also buy an
impact driver, you'll be glad for that feature

.... a single sleeve ratcheting chuck, not to be confused with the
two-handed "keyless" garbage

.... a choice of low/high or low/medium/high gears

.... nickel metal hydride (NiMH) or lithium ion (Li-Ion) batteries
instead of cheap/poisonous nickel cadmium (NiCad)

.... two batteries, replacement batteries are expensive

.... easily replaceable brushes

.... light weight

Some swear by impact drivers for driving/removing screws.

If you can afford it and you don't need a very high powered drill,
IMO Makita's duo (6935FDWDEX, impact driver plus drill) at
Amazon.com looks awesome for $195 US after immediate $25 discount
and free shipping.

If you can't afford both, you can get the drill for about $135 US
after immediate $25 discount and free shipping. I think it includes
all of the above mentioned features.

I have no loyalty whatsoever to Amazon.com or even Makita, and would
encourage mention of other merchants and brands. But I do like those
features, if I haven't missed any.

Good luck and have fun.









Any advice would be appreciated.

John

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John



Or if you want to try one and see how it works, Harbor Freight has an 18
volt one for $20. Extra battery for $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93440

I have a store about a mile away so often look at their stuff.

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

Consumer reports tests is always a good place to look, of course. but
anyway
Amps doesn't come into the picture in cordless, it's all volts. Home
use tends to be around 12-14.4; more volts gives you more muscle but
are heavier which can be important when working overhead; of course the
converse also holds. So you can heft them and see what you would be
comfortable with for whatever you plan to be doing.
Those really little ones you see on the market now all of a sudden
(with brand names) tend to be useless, according to the CR testers.

I am going to assume that after you deal with your palsy or your
keyboard problems you will be able to use one.

Google up CPO Bosch they do all the factory recons cheap (most are
store returns where someone opened it and changed their mind)
Been updating my own tools from there and so far I am happy.
John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears
has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

I would suggest less repeats and maybe some additional information.
What will you be using it for. If you want to build decks, that would be
one thing. Using it to put up the occasional curtain rod, that would be
something else.

I would not suggest buying on any one factor (Volts amps etc.) they
don't tell the whole story.

Assuming typical home use, not professional, I suggest going to the
library and see what Consumer Reports magazine had to say about them the
last time they did some test.

I have one of the DeWalt 14V jobs, I bought when the 14V was just out.
I have been happy with it. But I don't use it every day as some
professionals do. If you need professional use, stand by and one of the
professionals around here will come in and make suggestions for that kind of
use. Consumer Reports does not judge them for that kind of use.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John


A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service for
the same money. Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John


A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service for
the same money. Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

I quite agree- unless you expect to be working far from an outlet on a
regular basis, or use the drill to make a living, cordless tend to die
before they pay for themselves. (Not to mention, they all look like ray-guns
lately, probably done by the same stylists that make trucks look like
gigantic Hot Wheels cars.) I have a cordless, a 24v B&D that I
impulse-bought off the closeout table at the Borg for $25. For the
occasional small job, it is great. But when replacing the rotted stairs on
the deck smoked my 30 year old B&D corded, I went out and bought a makita
corded to replace it. That cordless just didn't have the torque or energy
depth to even think about doing 100 deck screws with, in this old hard wood.

aem sends...

Phisherman noone nobody.com wrote:

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
lindalynch starband.net wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided
to buy a portable drill.

A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service
for the same money.

Are you looking for a salesman?

Assuming an ordinary person who does things around the house, yard,
or car, the time/effort savings will make up for that many times
over. Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working. A cordless drill is a must-have for
most drill users.

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

I have a cheap Skil 12 V cordless drill that has lasted for five
years.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ski...0_731_741.html

Have fun.









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Subject: Portable drill
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Rich256 wrote in
:

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John



Or if you want to try one and see how it works, Harbor Freight has an
18 volt one for $20. Extra battery for $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93440

I have a store about a mile away so often look at their stuff.


Rich:

There is one near me as well. Never bought anything there. I'm sure
you've picked up winners and losers. How about naming a few of each?

I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what you paid
for or plain old lucky.

Al...

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:48:58 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
"badgolferman" quickly quoth:

John Lynch, 9/7/2006,4:35:38 PM, wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

I have a Ryobi 14.4 drill that came with two batteries, charger and a
flashlight that was ~ $50. I am not a heavy user and it works great
for me. My recommendation is to make sure you get two batteries. You
don't want to wait for the other one two charge while you're building a
deck or something. You may want to make sure it has the new battery
type NiMh or something like that.

I also have a Ryobi 14.4 and likee it. The old Skil 9.6v is still
working for small drilling jobs, too, but the next one I buy is going
to be a Bosch Impactor 14.4. They're extremely good for driving long
deck screws in without even THINKING of stripping out the philips or
square drive. Bosch is well made, lightweight, and shorter than most.
It should fit where others wouldn't. I could pay $139 for the Ryobi
impactor clone or about $200 for the Bosch kit. They'll be on sale
next month when the Team Bosch show comes through town and I'll be on
'em like a hound in heat. g They usually have $40 off coupons and
the kits go for $243.

Try one out. You'll never think of your old rotary-only drills in the
same way again. Just don't let your wife try it. You'll end up needing
two.


--
STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites

In article ,
"John Lynch" wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

On my job for many years, I have used a DeWalt 14.4VDC drill/hammerdrill. I
would personally buy the SAME drill again.
--

JR

Al Bundy, 9/7/2006,11:22:33 PM, wrote:

There is one near me as well. Never bought anything there. I'm sure
you've picked up winners and losers. How about naming a few of each?

I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what you
paid for or plain old lucky.

I bought a reciprocating saw from Harbor Freight for $20. I've used it
to cut branches from large bushes down and let the handyman I hired to
replace my windowsills use it. After cutting one window sill out with
it he claimed that was worth $20 right there. He also asked for my
catalog.

If you use tools ocassionally or want to buy a specialty tool you'll
use once or twice you can consider Harbor Freight tools. If you make
your living with tools like this you want better quality and something
that will last a long time.

Quality, Price, Service. Pick two. (I think that's how the adage
goes).

In article , postmaster@
127.0.0.1 says...
Rich256 wrote in
:

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to
buy a portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what?
Sears has one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts.
It doesn't mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

I've had a Makita 9.6/12V for about 10 years. The batteries are
going so I bought a 14.4V Porter Cable. Love it! The Makita
rarely gets used anymore so I can save what's left of the batteries
for the 3-5/8" cut-off saw and right angle drill that take the same
battery.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John



Or if you want to try one and see how it works, Harbor Freight has an
18 volt one for $20. Extra battery for $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93440

I have a store about a mile away so often look at their stuff.


Rich:

There is one near me as well. Never bought anything there. I'm sure
you've picked up winners and losers. How about naming a few of each?

The above drill is a *LOSER*. I bought a couple just to bang up.
They weren't worth the shipping.

Winners: the 10" compound miter saw. One friend didn't like his so
there may be a differing quality issue. Chip brushes, Nitrile
gloves. $5 multi-meters.

I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what you paid
for or plain old lucky.

There's a lot of that. ;-)

--
Keith

The quality there can be pretty low. However, in most cases like the
drill you won't lose much. Good American Name :-) CHICAGO (Didn't know
there was a Chicago China).

The drill is probably made by the same company of one marketed by an
Auto Supply for about the same price. (Checker Auto = Parts America).
They have one with the Coleman name:

http://tinyurl.com/e7n78

And they often have very good prices on refurbished name brands like Makita.

I have one of their Chicago angle grinders that I bought for $19 three
or four years ago. I have worked it hard. One of the handiest tools I
have. Got a nail that is hard to remove. Just grind it off.



Rich:

There is one near me as well. Never bought anything there. I'm sure
you've picked up winners and losers. How about naming a few of each?

I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what you paid
for or plain old lucky.

Al...

I've had a Makita 9.6/12V for about 10 years. The batteries are
going so I bought a 14.4V Porter Cable. Love it! The Makita
rarely gets used anymore so I can save what's left of the batteries
for the 3-5/8" cut-off saw and right angle drill that take the same
battery.

You might want to check your "yellow pages" and see if someone nearby
repairs those old battery packs. They cut open the old pack and replace
the cells and cement the package back together. I have never used the
service but an In-law told me he was quite happy with the price and the
results.

It would be a shame to have to junk some useful tools because the battery
pack is getting long in the tooth.

I still like my 14.4 volt Bosch. The
great part is the 1 hand chuck. It is
powerful enough for most, even heavy
duty, jogs and pretty light weight.
When I lost it 2 years ago, I went right
out an bought the current model.
I only wish it had a level bubble.

Rich256 wrote:
The quality there can be pretty low. However, in most cases like the
drill you won't lose much. Good American Name :-) CHICAGO (Didn't know
there was a Chicago China).

The drill is probably made by the same company of one marketed by an
Auto Supply for about the same price. (Checker Auto = Parts America).
They have one with the Coleman name:

http://tinyurl.com/e7n78

And they often have very good prices on refurbished name brands like
Makita.

I have one of their Chicago angle grinders that I bought for $19 three
or four years ago. I have worked it hard. One of the handiest tools I
have. Got a nail that is hard to remove. Just grind it off.



Rich:

There is one near me as well. Never bought anything there. I'm sure
you've picked up winners and losers. How about naming a few of each?
I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what you
paid for or plain old lucky.

Al...

On Thu, 07 Sep 2006 21:14:16 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:



Try one out. You'll never think of your old rotary-only drills in the
same way again.

I think that no tool is optimally suited for every job. I have an
older Ryobi 12V that I still really like. It's really well-balanced in
the hand. The first set of batteries lasted about 4 years.

I also have a Ryobi 18V (I got it when it was about the same price as
replacing the 12V batteries, then I found 12v batteries for much less,
so now I have 2 cordless drills). I don't think these batteries last
quite as long, and the drill is heavier, but it does have more power.
The extra power is seldom necessary. I keep the 12v in the house and
the 18v in the garage. Sometimes I use both (drill bit on one,
phillips bit on the other)

For drilling through the walls and floors of my (brick) house I have a
Makita corded hammer drill. I don't usually put the second handle on,
which means that at some point I'll be posting here (typing with my
left hand) that the second handle is necessary to prevent wrist
injury. It's very powerful and the hammer feature really makes short
work of drilling through masonry. But I don't like it for driving
screws. It's designed to work at higher RPMs and I find the trigger
too sensitive to get the lower speeds you want for driving screws.

I also have a couple of older corded drills, a Skil and B&D. I find
these handy for really questionable work like wire-brushing and
anything else that's likely to gum up, heat up or jam up the tool.

I think that if I had no drills at all, I'd buy a 14.4 volt cordless
and the Makita Hammer Drill.

Just don't let your wife try it. You'll end up needing
two.

I had to read this twice before I "got" it. Or is my mind just in the
gutter?

Greg Guarino

Art Todesco wrote:
I still like my 14.4 volt Bosch. The great part is the 1 hand chuck.
It is
powerful enough for most, even heavy duty, jogs and pretty light weight.
When I lost it 2 years ago, I went right out an bought the current model.
I only wish it had a level bubble.

Of course you do. Just depends on how much he wants to pay and how much
he will use it. (When it comes to cars I recommend Jaguar instead of
a Chevrolet Aveo - if you can afford it).

"Rich256" wrote in message
...
Art Todesco wrote:
I still like my 14.4 volt Bosch. The great part is the 1 hand chuck. It
is
powerful enough for most, even heavy duty, jogs and pretty light weight.
When I lost it 2 years ago, I went right out an bought the current model.
I only wish it had a level bubble.

Of course you do. Just depends on how much he wants to pay and how much
he will use it. (When it comes to cars I recommend Jaguar instead of a
Chevrolet Aveo - if you can afford it).

Truth is, there is no ONE drill that does everything. Ergo, a person NEEDS
a battery operated drill, a 3/8" electric drill, a 1/2" electric drill, a
1/2" hammer drill, an SDS rotohammer drill, etc.

The OP requested info on a general bracket of drill. I would suggest to him
a DeWalt 12v., around $125.

From there, it all depends on what you are going to use it for. I have
multiple drills, some of which only come out of hiding once or twice a year,
but when they do, they do their work quickly and easily, then go back into
their hiding places.

I like to take my Ferrari Enzo on long drives. But, the old '69 VW Beetle
is just fine for a 7-11 run for beer and cigarettes. They both have their
areas of expertise. One size don't fit all, and each is better than the
other in special regards.

So it is with tools.

Particularly drills.

Steve

Does your definition of "portable" mean that the drill is cordless?
Corded drills are fairly portable. Can be carried in one hand.
Unless running a cord to the nearest receptacle is an issue, go corded.


John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

"John Gilmer" wrote:




I've had a Makita 9.6/12V for about 10 years. The batteries are
going

You might want to check your "yellow pages" and see if someone
nearby repairs those old battery packs. They cut open the old
pack and replace the cells

I wonder what individual battery size those use (for example, 1/3
AA).

krw wrote:

In article , postmaster@
127.0.0.1 says...

I get the feeling HF purchases end up being either you got what
you paid for or plain old lucky.

There's a lot of that. ;-)

I suspect most things that cannot be comparison shopped for, like
non-namebrand products. I guess that leaves you with an impression
of the store itself to go by.

Steve B wrote:
"Rich256" wrote in message
...
Art Todesco wrote:
I still like my 14.4 volt Bosch. The great part is the 1 hand chuck. It
is
powerful enough for most, even heavy duty, jogs and pretty light weight.
When I lost it 2 years ago, I went right out an bought the current model.
I only wish it had a level bubble.
Of course you do. Just depends on how much he wants to pay and how much
he will use it. (When it comes to cars I recommend Jaguar instead of a
Chevrolet Aveo - if you can afford it).

Truth is, there is no ONE drill that does everything. Ergo, a person NEEDS
a battery operated drill, a 3/8" electric drill, a 1/2" electric drill, a
1/2" hammer drill, an SDS rotohammer drill, etc.

The OP requested info on a general bracket of drill. I would suggest to him
a DeWalt 12v., around $125.

From there, it all depends on what you are going to use it for. I have
multiple drills, some of which only come out of hiding once or twice a year,
but when they do, they do their work quickly and easily, then go back into
their hiding places.

I like to take my Ferrari Enzo on long drives. But, the old '69 VW Beetle
is just fine for a 7-11 run for beer and cigarettes. They both have their
areas of expertise. One size don't fit all, and each is better than the
other in special regards.

So it is with tools.

Particularly drills.

Steve



And my neighbor who doesn't have a corded drill bought a battery
operated on three years ago. He hasn't used it yet. Easier to hire
someone or sometimes even comes over and asks me to do it for him.

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 18:02:50 GMT, John Doe
wrote:

"John Gilmer" wrote:




I've had a Makita 9.6/12V for about 10 years. The batteries are
going

You might want to check your "yellow pages" and see if someone
nearby repairs those old battery packs. They cut open the old
pack and replace the cells

I wonder what individual battery size those use (for example, 1/3
AA).

I don't know about that one, but I have looked inside a Black & Decker
6V drill. It contained 5 sub-C cells.
--
108 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"All your western theologies, the whole mythology of them,
are based on the concept of God as a senile delinquent."
-- Tennessee Williams

"John Lynch" wrote in message
...
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John


I'm really sorry about all the repeat post! I didn't think it was working,
so I kept trying until I finally gave up. Now I'm very surprised to see
that it was working after all. I'm an old guy and not very computer savy.
I bought a rental house for something to keep me busy in retirement and I've
had situations where a portable would have been real handy. Like when the
renters aren't home, and I want to drill or screw outside. Another time was
when I built a deer blind a quarter mile from the house.

So I probably don't need a heavy duty one. I checked out the Bosch site
that bamboo recommended and I was very tempted to buy one, because I like a
bargain, but the one from Sears might be more sensible, considering my
needs.

Thanks to all of you! You all had good points that gave me something to
think about.

John

John Doe wrote in
et:

Phisherman noone nobody.com wrote:

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
lindalynch starband.net wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided
to buy a portable drill.

A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service
for the same money.

Are you looking for a salesman?

Assuming an ordinary person who does things around the house, yard,
or car, the time/effort savings will make up for that many times
over. Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working. A cordless drill is a must-have for
most drill users.

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

I have a cheap Skil 12 V cordless drill that has lasted for five
years.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ski...dless-drill-pa
rts-c-130_731_741.html

Have fun.









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r-mail From: Phisherman noone nobody.com
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Subject: Portable drill
Reply-To: noone nobody.com
Message-ID: 13h1g25j6oujk8do2rt2geteah261h4q2a 4ax.com
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Xref: prodigy.net alt.home.repair:898958





Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working.


Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your corded
drill up. All you have is a round extension cord because you cut your
flat cord with the corded saw when using it. You step on the round cord.
Whoops.! 32ft/sec/sec. Hey you on the ground with your tibia at 45
degrees. Is that a round pencil impaled in your chest? Shame on you!
Don't you know you're suppose to use flat carpenters pencils on a roof?!

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

Which may be longer than the exclusive corded drill owner.

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 22:24:35 -0500, Al Bundy
wrote:

John Doe wrote in
. net:

Phisherman noone nobody.com wrote:

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
lindalynch starband.net wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided
to buy a portable drill.

A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service
for the same money.

Are you looking for a salesman?

Assuming an ordinary person who does things around the house, yard,
or car, the time/effort savings will make up for that many times
over. Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working. A cordless drill is a must-have for
most drill users.

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

I have a cheap Skil 12 V cordless drill that has lasted for five
years.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ski...dless-drill-pa
rts-c-130_731_741.html

Have fun.









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r-mail From: Phisherman noone nobody.com
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Subject: Portable drill
Reply-To: noone nobody.com
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Xref: prodigy.net alt.home.repair:898958





Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working.


Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your corded
drill up. All you have is a round extension cord because you cut your
flat cord with the corded saw when using it. You step on the round cord.
Whoops.! 32ft/sec/sec. Hey you on the ground with your tibia at 45
degrees. Is that a round pencil impaled in your chest? Shame on you!
Don't you know you're suppose to use flat carpenters pencils on a roof?!

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

Which may be longer than the exclusive corded drill owner.

Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your
cordless drill up. The battery dies. Your spare battery is over by the
ladder, and you can't quite reach it. Trying, you injure your shoulder
(and actually push the spare battery off the roof, where it falls on
your wife's head. She yells and leaves to complain to a neighbor), and
are not able to finish the job or climb down. You wish you hadn't
forgotten your wireless phone, that could have been used to call for
help.
--
108 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"All your western theologies, the whole mythology of them,
are based on the concept of God as a senile delinquent."
-- Tennessee Williams

"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 22:24:35 -0500, Al Bundy
wrote:

John Doe wrote in
.net:

Phisherman noone nobody.com wrote:

On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:35:38 -0400, "John Lynch"
lindalynch starband.net wrote:

After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided
to buy a portable drill.

A quality corded drill will give you many more years of service
for the same money.

Are you looking for a salesman?

Assuming an ordinary person who does things around the house, yard,
or car, the time/effort savings will make up for that many times
over. Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working. A cordless drill is a must-have for
most drill users.

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

I have a cheap Skil 12 V cordless drill that has lasted for five
years.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ski...dless-drill-pa
rts-c-130_731_741.html

Have fun.









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r-mail From: Phisherman noone nobody.com
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Subject: Portable drill
Reply-To: noone nobody.com
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Xref: prodigy.net alt.home.repair:898958





Then there's the safety factor of not having a live cord get
in the way when you are working.


Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your corded
drill up. All you have is a round extension cord because you cut your
flat cord with the corded saw when using it. You step on the round cord.
Whoops.! 32ft/sec/sec. Hey you on the ground with your tibia at 45
degrees. Is that a round pencil impaled in your chest? Shame on you!
Don't you know you're suppose to use flat carpenters pencils on a roof?!

Expect a cordless drill to die in a few years.

Which may be longer than the exclusive corded drill owner.

Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your
cordless drill up. The battery dies. Your spare battery is over by the
ladder, and you can't quite reach it. Trying, you injure your shoulder
(and actually push the spare battery off the roof, where it falls on
your wife's head. She yells and leaves to complain to a neighbor), and
are not able to finish the job or climb down. You wish you hadn't
forgotten your wireless phone, that could have been used to call for
help.
--
108 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You need two minutes, tops, three
minutes of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You will need two hours, maybe
four of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Wait. Wait. I know this one.

Steve

12 volt makita.

John Lynch wrote:
After years of thinking I can get along without one, I've decided to buy a
portable drill. What should I look for? Volts, Amps or what? Sears has
one going on sale for $70. The ad says it has 14.4 volts. It doesn't
mention amp. I want one that I'll be satisfied with.

Any advice would be appreciated.

John

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 22:42:52 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Mark
Lloyd quickly quoth:

Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your
cordless drill up. The battery dies. Your spare battery is over by the
ladder, and you can't quite reach it. Trying, you injure your shoulder
(and actually push the spare battery off the roof, where it falls on
your wife's head. She yells and leaves to complain to a neighbor), and
are not able to finish the job or climb down. You wish you hadn't
forgotten your wireless phone, that could have been used to call for
help.

Hehehe. In that case, the person should stay on the ground and use
their cell phone to call a REAL contractor or handyman.

Also, he should heed these timeless words of wisdom:

If at first you don't succeed, forget skydiving.
and
Never attempt to leap a chasm in two jumps.

--
Vidi, Vici, Veni
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 05:30:28 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 22:42:52 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Mark
Lloyd quickly quoth:

Let's see, you need to take a drill up on the roof. You take your
cordless drill up. The battery dies. Your spare battery is over by the
ladder, and you can't quite reach it. Trying, you injure your shoulder
(and actually push the spare battery off the roof, where it falls on
your wife's head. She yells and leaves to complain to a neighbor), and
are not able to finish the job or climb down. You wish you hadn't
forgotten your wireless phone, that could have been used to call for
help.

Hehehe. In that case, the person should stay on the ground and use
their cell phone to call a REAL contractor or handyman.


Who often DO use cordless drills, although are less likely to carry
dead batteries up to the roof.

Also, he should heed these timeless words of wisdom:

If at first you don't succeed, forget skydiving.
and
Never attempt to leap a chasm in two jumps.

And, of course, never attempt to leap a chasm when you have absolutely
no evidence that the other side even exists (look before you leap).
--
107 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"All your western theologies, the whole mythology of them,
are based on the concept of God as a senile delinquent."
-- Tennessee Williams

On Fri, 8 Sep 2006 23:10:59 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

snip

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You need two minutes, tops, three
minutes of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You will need two hours, maybe
four of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Wait. Wait. I know this one.

Steve


Let me guess...None. Over 20 years of home ownership and I never used
a drill on the roof.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 8 Sep 2006 23:10:59 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

snip

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You need two minutes, tops,
three
minutes of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Let's see. You are going up on the roof. You will need two hours, maybe
four of drill time. Which drill do you use?

Wait. Wait. I know this one.

Steve


Let me guess...None. Over 20 years of home ownership and I never used
a drill on the roof.

Never had to fix any of the tin on the chimney stack, or remount a TV mast,
huh? Small jobs like that are what cordless drills are great for. On the
other hand, if you are replacing all the shutters on the second floor,
working from the porch roof, mebbe that cordless won't have the staying
power to drill out those rusty anchors, or drill 8-per-window new ones in
that 60-year-old mortar. Cordless and corded are both useful tools- the
trick is in knowing when to use which one.

aem sends....

In article ,
lid says...
"John Gilmer" wrote:




I've had a Makita 9.6/12V for about 10 years. The batteries are
going

You might want to check your "yellow pages" and see if someone
nearby repairs those old battery packs. They cut open the old
pack and replace the cells

I've thought about that. Batteries are _expensive_ and rebuilding
them is not quite so, but still...

I wonder what individual battery size those use (for example, 1/3
AA).

I think they're "sub-C"; basically a half-length 'C'.

--
Keith