I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com

I read in sci.electronics.design that Chris W wrote
(in KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07) about 'Plug and socket suggestion
needed', on Fri, 8 Apr 2005:
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch
that switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a
plug on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find
the cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does,
plug it in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst
case something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?


IEC 60320 panel outlet and free plug. Newark should have them, but I
find their web site very unfriendly. The Farnell part numbers are 360430
and 360454.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Perhaps using a large ground pin type plug / socket combo would be good, or
if they exist, a larger pin 2 pin plug socket combo.

Paul

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied would
start a fire.

Jim

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim


So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Ken

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too.
I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim

RJ45 style plugs are certianly NOT safe for 120 volt applications.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.

Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

In article 56J5e.151$yO2.99@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:

Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.

I understand. I don't know what's giving you trouble try Molex/Waldom,
Amp CPC, Conxall, Amp Mate-N-Lok. Are you searching their web catalogs
or hard copy? Web catalogs are next to useless for "I'll know it when I
see it" searches.

In article , Michael wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.

Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are...
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern.
Can't remember what they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked!
A bonus is that the socket is so wierd...
Michael

Same thing I thought of
(because I used one for a switch on a break-it-down-easily system).
http://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/te...NEMA/ml_2p.htm

In sci.electronics.design Chris W wrote:
The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the switch
and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the switch.
Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on fire.

How much current does the switch have to handle? If it's just a few
amps, you might put an inline fuse in the cord to the switch. If
anybody plugs it into the wall and flips the switch, the fuse probably
blows before the breaker.

You could use the type of connector that is on computer power cords.
Something like a Digi-Key Q223-ND ($1) on the control box, and a Q216-ND
($7) on the end of the switch cord.

You could go for the old-time look with a Jones connector. Mouser
538-23023 ($1.50) on the control box and 538-13021 ($2.50) on the
switch cord.

Matt Roberds

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 00:56:01 -0500, the renowned Eric Inazaki
wrote:

In article , Michael wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.

There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 06:57:14 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:


There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7·5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance £ 3 mO
Insulation resistance ³ 109O

These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did make a
specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I don't see it on
the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old kit in the workshop fitted
with these. The body insert moulding was Red and the pins were mechanically
shielded IIRC.

I'll have a look in some old Newark catalogues.

Peter

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, John Woodgate
wrote:

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?

I wasn't, I was just pointing out what is (or was) available.

The ratings for the Neutrik connectors are from their website.

Peter

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, the renowned John Woodgate
wrote:

I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter A Forbes
wrote (in
) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:

XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7·5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance £ 3 mO
Insulation resistance ³ 109O

They are NOT rated as mains connectors DO NOT USE XLRs for mains!

Yes, it was more of an amusing (?) suggestion. There are a lot of
wimpy little connectors rated at 300V that should never see anything
more than 24V and even that at limited current.


These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did
make a specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I
don't see it on the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old
kit in the workshop fitted with these. The body insert moulding was Red
and the pins were mechanically shielded IIRC.

It (the XLR-LNE) doesn't meet current safety requirements.

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?




Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter A Forbes
wrote (in
) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, John Woodgate

wrote:

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?

I wasn't, I was just pointing out what is (or was) available.

I didn't mean you, I meant the OP, if he hasn't got tired and gone away.

The ratings for the Neutrik connectors are from their website.

They are, but you need to understand what they mean, and what they don't
mean. The clearance and creepage distances for mains connectors have to
take into account that voltage spikes occur, up to 10 times the supply
voltage quite often, and occasionally up to 30 times.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

I read in sci.electronics.design that Spehro Pefhany
wrote (in
) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:

There are a lot of wimpy little connectors rated at 300V that should
never see anything more than 24V and even that at limited current.

That's why I persuaded IEC to make IEC 61984 a standard, not a report.
It gives safety requirements for connectors not covered by another
specific standard, as, for example, the IEC 60320 connectors are.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:08 +1200, "Ken Taylor" wroth:

"James Meyer" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim


So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Ken


A couple of surface mounted resistors blew up, but no fire resulted.

Jim

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 11:10:53 +1000, "John G" wroth:


"James Meyer" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too.
I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim

RJ45 style plugs are certianly NOT safe for 120 volt applications.

Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.

Jim

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120 V
mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance and
creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

JeffM wrote:

Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are...
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern.
Can't remember what they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked!
A bonus is that the socket is so wierd...
Michael

Same thing I thought of
(because I used one for a switch on a break-it-down-easily system).
http://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/te...NEMA/ml_2p.htm


Yup. The Twist-Lock is what I was thinking of.

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug on
the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't needed. The
easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2 prong outlet
and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the
switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the
switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on
fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been searching Mouser and
Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and matching plug I have
found are the round ones that have from two on up to 100 or maybe more
conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are around $30 for the plug and
socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less money than that. Any
suggestions?

Jones Connectors.
http://www.google.com/search?&q=%22jones+connectors%22
First hit:
http://www.action-electronics.com/cinch.htm

Have Fun!
Rich

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 13:02:08 +1200, Ken Taylor wrote:
"James Meyer" wrote in message
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Why do you have 120 VAC at the RJ-45 plug?

Thanks,
Rich

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:45:38 -0500, Chris W wrote:

Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box and
a plug on the wire with the switch.

I don't know why my newsreader isn't threading these things right, but
a couple posts back (or maybe in a different thread if you've posted
the same question twice), I suggested Jones connectors. About two
bucks, and there's not a chance of plugging anything else into them:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/621/871.pdf

Have Fun!
Rich

"John Woodgate" wrote in message
...
I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120
V mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance
and creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:47:33 +1000, "John G" wroth:


"John Woodgate" wrote in message
...
I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120
V mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance
and creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.

The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.

Jim

In article ,
James Meyer wrote:

The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.

Jim


Well, here's the original post:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?


I don't see any reference to "current limited". The cable/switch
contraption sounds like it's supposed to back up a set of relay
contacts that, for all I (or you) know, will be switching mains
power.

Safety issues aside, RJ45 jacks are generally pc mount affairs.
I don't know how the OP has his parts wired together, though I
suspect it'd be a pain in the ass to panel mount an RJ45 jack.

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:47:33 +1000, "John G"
wroth:


"John Woodgate" wrote in message
...
I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120
V mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance
and creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.

The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not
for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original
poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.

Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:50:02 -0500, Eric Inazaki
wroth:



Safety issues aside, RJ45 jacks are generally pc mount affairs.
I don't know how the OP has his parts wired together, though I
suspect it'd be a pain in the ass to panel mount an RJ45 jack.

There are plenty of panel mounted RJ-45 connectors available. A typical
office setting has them on the wall. No PC board required. The wires come
right off the back of the receptical. Most of them use IDC type connections so
even soldering is eliminated.

Jim

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 12:42:45 +0100, "R.Lewis" wroth:

Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?

I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 12:42:45 +0100, "R.Lewis"
wroth:

Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows
conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?

I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the
switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without
overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim


That just about sums it up.
If you don't know what you are doing with one thing - best make sure you
know nothing about the lot.
Saves you from worrying I suppose.

James Meyer wrote:

On Sun, 10 Apr 2005 12:42:45 +0100, "R.Lewis" wroth:



Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?



I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim




Being the OP I thought I would interject here. The switch at the other
end of the cable is rated at 10A 125VAC and something else at 250VAC.
When turned on the switch will deliver 120VAC mains line to a solenoid
valve on a 1/2 HP hydraulic power unit. And as another poster suggested
this switch is back up for a relay, which is why I want to be able to
unplug it. Thanks for the many suggestions. Most I couldn't find at a
price I wanted to to pay. I will probably go with a Mouser P/N
161-R30200 and 161-R331. I would have preferred the similar connectors
that had the prongs perpendicular to what those have since that is more
unlike anything else that plugs into the wall. The "old style"
connectors that someone suggested are way too crude looking for my
tastes. As for the RJ45 connector, it has several problems, other than
not handling mains like some say, the cable won't hold up very well on
the end of a control box, and having the RJ45 jack in my control box
might lead someone to think that the thing is network enabled and try to
hook it up to the network.

--
Chris W

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