I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com

Perhaps using a large ground pin type plug / socket combo would be good, or
if they exist, a larger pin 2 pin plug socket combo.

Paul

I read in sci.electronics.design that Chris W wrote
(in KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07) about 'Plug and socket suggestion
needed', on Fri, 8 Apr 2005:
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch
that switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a
plug on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find
the cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does,
plug it in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst
case something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?


IEC 60320 panel outlet and free plug. Newark should have them, but I
find their web site very unfriendly. The Farnell part numbers are 360430
and 360454.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied would
start a fire.

Jim

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim


So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Ken

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:08 +1200, "Ken Taylor" wroth:

"James Meyer" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim


So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Ken


A couple of surface mounted resistors blew up, but no fire resulted.

Jim

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 13:02:08 +1200, Ken Taylor wrote:
"James Meyer" wrote in message
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Why do you have 120 VAC at the RJ-45 plug?

Thanks,
Rich

"James Meyer" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too.
I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim

RJ45 style plugs are certianly NOT safe for 120 volt applications.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 11:10:53 +1000, "John G" wroth:


"James Meyer" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too.
I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim

RJ45 style plugs are certianly NOT safe for 120 volt applications.

Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.

Jim

I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120 V
mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance and
creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

"John Woodgate" wrote in message
...
I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer
wrote (in ) about 'Plug and
socket suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
Oh really? Take a look at:

https://www.usa-assmann.com/shop/ite...=602&catid=118

Current rating 1.5 Amps, voltage rating 125 VRMS AC.


'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120
V mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance
and creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.

Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com

In article 56J5e.151$yO2.99@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:

Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07, Chris W
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.

I understand. I don't know what's giving you trouble try Molex/Waldom,
Amp CPC, Conxall, Amp Mate-N-Lok. Are you searching their web catalogs
or hard copy? Web catalogs are next to useless for "I'll know it when I
see it" searches.

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:45:38 -0500, Chris W wrote:

Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box and
a plug on the wire with the switch.

I don't know why my newsreader isn't threading these things right, but
a couple posts back (or maybe in a different thread if you've posted
the same question twice), I suggested Jones connectors. About two
bucks, and there's not a chance of plugging anything else into them:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/621/871.pdf

Have Fun!
Rich

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

In article , Michael wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 00:56:01 -0500, the renowned Eric Inazaki
wrote:

In article , Michael wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.

There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 06:57:14 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
wrote:


There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7·5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance £ 3 mO
Insulation resistance ³ 109O

These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did make a
specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I don't see it on
the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old kit in the workshop fitted
with these. The body insert moulding was Red and the pins were mechanically
shielded IIRC.

I'll have a look in some old Newark catalogues.

Peter

Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are...
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern.
Can't remember what they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked!
A bonus is that the socket is so wierd...
Michael

Same thing I thought of
(because I used one for a switch on a break-it-down-easily system).
http://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/te...NEMA/ml_2p.htm

JeffM wrote:

Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are...
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern.
Can't remember what they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked!
A bonus is that the socket is so wierd...
Michael

Same thing I thought of
(because I used one for a switch on a break-it-down-easily system).
http://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/te...NEMA/ml_2p.htm


Yup. The Twist-Lock is what I was thinking of.

In sci.electronics.design Chris W wrote:
The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the switch
and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the switch.
Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on fire.

How much current does the switch have to handle? If it's just a few
amps, you might put an inline fuse in the cord to the switch. If
anybody plugs it into the wall and flips the switch, the fuse probably
blows before the breaker.

You could use the type of connector that is on computer power cords.
Something like a Digi-Key Q223-ND ($1) on the control box, and a Q216-ND
($7) on the end of the switch cord.

You could go for the old-time look with a Jones connector. Mouser
538-23023 ($1.50) on the control box and 538-13021 ($2.50) on the
switch cord.

Matt Roberds

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug on
the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't needed. The
easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2 prong outlet
and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the
switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the
switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on
fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been searching Mouser and
Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and matching plug I have
found are the round ones that have from two on up to 100 or maybe more
conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are around $30 for the plug and
socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less money than that. Any
suggestions?

Jones Connectors.
http://www.google.com/search?&q=%22jones+connectors%22
First hit:
http://www.action-electronics.com/cinch.htm

Have Fun!
Rich