Hi,

Changing my spring return 3 port valve actuator for a new one and for
the n'th time - I decided it really needed a plug and socket to avoid
the struggling with wiring at a peculiar angle in the airing cupboard
into a twelve way connector block.

Plug and socket, so that there were no concerns about inserting the
four wires into the wrong pins of the 12 way connector, plus the making
notes on which goes where. I could not find a suitably rated 4 pin plug
and socket, so what I did is as follows:-

8888888888 12 way connector block

8888 4x Short insulated wire links orange, blue, white,grey

|||| 4x short 2.5mm bare solid wire
8888 4x wires to Sunvic actuator head orange, blue, white, grey

The short 2.5mm wires stay permanently fixed to the 4x connector strip
on the end of the Sunvic, making this the 'plug'. The socket being the
4x connector strip permantly attached and connected to the 12way.

Undo the four connector screws and out it comes, with its replacement
actuator ready set up with a 4 way connector to go in its place.

Having had so many regular problems with these actuators, I always keep
a spare actuator to hand ready to fit.

Incidently, the thing which so regularly kills these actuators is the
heat rising from the valve it controls. Mine is mounted directly above
the valve, rather than horizontally. I used to have to replace/repair
our actuator every 18months to 2 years. With a simple modification I
have managed to make them last in excess of 4 to 5 years the last
couple of times, as follows:-

I simply inserted an heat shield or heat deflector between valve and
actuator. In my case I undid the two screws fixing the actuator to the
valve and added an 9" diameter Tupperware container lid trapped between
the two, with holes for drive and screws cut in the middle of the lid.
The rising heat is now deflected away by the lid and the actuator runs
much coooler.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:29:56 GMT, "Harry Bloomfield"
strung together this:

Hi,

snip bodgery

Thanks, I'll remember not to do that. If you could refrain from making
up random bits of pointless shortcutting it would be much appreciated.

If you keep posting things like that I'll set Phil on you.

FWIW, a proper 4 pole mains rated connector isn't really that
expensive.
--

SJW
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Hi,

Changing my spring return 3 port valve actuator for a new one and for
the n'th time - I decided it really needed a plug and socket to avoid
the struggling with wiring at a peculiar angle in the airing cupboard
into a twelve way connector block.

Plug and socket, so that there were no concerns about inserting the four
wires into the wrong pins of the 12 way connector, plus the making notes
on which goes where. I could not find a suitably rated 4 pin plug and
socket, so what I did is as follows:-

snip

Maybe look at bulgen connectors or even neutrik speakon?

Check out RS or CPC, just a tho
--
Regards,
Aaron.

Aaron submitted this idea :
Maybe look at bulgen connectors or even neutrik speakon?

Check out RS or CPC, just a tho

Thanks..... I actually called into Maplin on the way home from HRP, to
see if they had anything suitable. They didn't, the best they could
offer was XLR, which set me thinking of an alternative solution for a
quick and error free method to swap the actuator.

Undo four terminal screws and its out. A good enough solution if it
only needs to be substituted every few years, which was why I took the
trouble to write it up. It works well, its quick, so why incur
additional time and expense fitting a proper plug and socket when it is
solved?

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Hi,

Changing my spring return 3 port valve actuator for a new one and for
the n'th time - I decided it really needed a plug and socket to avoid
the struggling with wiring at a peculiar angle in the airing cupboard
into a twelve way connector block.

Plug and socket, so that there were no concerns about inserting the four
wires into the wrong pins of the 12 way connector, plus the making notes
on which goes where. I could not find a suitably rated 4 pin plug and
socket, so what I did is as follows:-

Original posting not shown up here, but when I installed my
heating, I used the 8-pin circular bulgin connector, which used
to be (and maybe still is) common on disco lighting and the
like. I drilled out a blank patress plate to take the socket,
and attached the plug to the actuator. Two of the spare pins in
the plug are looped and effectively in series with the thermostat
for the zone on the 'A' port (upstairs heating in my case) so
that if the plug is removed and hence the actuator is stuck on
the spring return 'B' zone (downstairs heating in my case), the
other zone cannot demand heat which cannot be satisfied.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Thanks..... I actually called into Maplin on the way home from HRP, to
see if they had anything suitable. They didn't, the best they could
offer was XLR, which set me thinking of an alternative solution for a
quick and error free method to swap the actuator.

XLRs aren't suitable for mains use. And Maplin shouldn't have recommended
them. Although they are 250 volt rated. ;-) Probably something to do with
them latching, or perhaps because they have a conductive body.

RS do do a cheap XLR compatible range made entirely of plastic with no
latches. If I had to, I'd use that one for mains. :-)

They do have an eight pin mains connector, though. HL 39 and HL40.

--
*I wish the buck stopped here. I could use a few.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Andrew Gabriel brought next idea :
Original posting not shown up here, but when I installed my
heating, I used the 8-pin circular bulgin connector, which used
to be (and maybe still is) common on disco lighting and the
like. I drilled out a blank patress plate to take the socket,
and attached the plug to the actuator. Two of the spare pins in
the plug are looped and effectively in series with the thermostat
for the zone on the 'A' port (upstairs heating in my case) so
that if the plug is removed and hence the actuator is stuck on
the spring return 'B' zone (downstairs heating in my case), the
other zone cannot demand heat which cannot be satisfied.

I enquired of the supplier what the differences were between the four
types of actuator in the spring return range. He suggested that one of
them was a plug in type, but did not seem able to supply a matching
socket.

As indicated the actuator gives less problems since I added an heat
deflector. I suspect the usual jamming leading uo to complete failure
is a result of the grease lubricant on the actuator drying out due to
heat.

I also noticed the original actuator (as fitted when the heating was
installed 18 years ago) was not fitted with what I assume to be an
internal heatsink for the motor as fitted to later models of the
Sunvic.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org