Hello all:

About four years ago I bought a SB 14" which came with a Haidao 250-222
quick change toolpost, wedge type. What I know about QC toolposts is
what little I've been able to glean from ten minutes searching RCM
archives. So:

1. Where can I purchase additional tool holders? Preferably El Cheapo
brand, I'm not terribly picky. This is, presumably, a 200 series, and
other 200-series holders fit it, correct?

2. I seem to be having some difficulty with keeping the post screwed
down properly. At first there's about two threads that show above the
top nut. But as I loosen and tighten the nut to change the angle, the
threaded stud seems to work its way down, slowly. And it takes more
than a half-turn of the wrench to loosen the nut completely.

I've tried removing nut and the washer under it, and there is another
"nut" that appears to take a spanner wrench with about 1/8" tips (which
tool I do not have). I've tried tightening it with a makeshift tool
but it doesn't appear to have done much good. Do I need to get the
right tool and tighten the thing properly, or does the problem lie
elsewhere?

Thanks for any help,
P'rfesser

In article .com,
wrote:
Hello all:

About four years ago I bought a SB 14" which came with a Haidao 250-222
quick change toolpost, wedge type. What I know about QC toolposts is
what little I've been able to glean from ten minutes searching RCM
archives. So:

1. Where can I purchase additional tool holders? Preferably El Cheapo
brand, I'm not terribly picky. This is, presumably, a 200 series, and
other 200-series holders fit it, correct?

That -- or BXA series (different maker, same sizes)

For that size, I would probably have selected the CXA (series
300) quick change toolpost, instead of the BXA (series 200). I selected
the BXA (series 200) for my Clausing, which is a 12x24" machine, and am
quite glad that I did.

Note that you can find the series 200 and/or BXA size tool
holders from several manufacturers, and they will interchange on
wedge-style toolposts. (Some have problems on piston style.)

2. I seem to be having some difficulty with keeping the post screwed
down properly. At first there's about two threads that show above the
top nut. But as I loosen and tighten the nut to change the angle,

How often do you do this? I normally set it so one dovetail is
parallel to the spindle and the other parallel to the chuck face, and
don't disturb it unless I have had to shift the compound. This position
puts tools on the side dovetail in the proper orientation to turn the OD
of a shaft, and tools on the inner dovetail in the proper orientation to
face work in the chuck and to bore with a boring bar.

It also makes sure that carbide insert type threading tools are
at the proper orientation to the workpiece.

There are tools available with differing insert angles, so you
can simply change the tool (it *is* on a quick-change toolpost after
all).

Also -- loosening, adjusting, and re-tightening the toolpost
just to get other angles from the tools destroys the repeatability of
the other tools. I depend on the tools retaining their position when I
put them back on the post. (That is one reason for using indexable
carbide inserts.)

the
threaded stud seems to work its way down, slowly. And it takes more
than a half-turn of the wrench to loosen the nut completely.

The stud should be bottomed in the T-nut, if it can be without
protruding out the other side and binding in the T-slot. If it won't
bottom without protruding too far, unscrew it, clean with a solvent, hit
with the primer, and put in a good strong grade of Loctite. This will
keep it from wandering -- however -- usually it is the inner cylinder
backing out which does this ...

I've tried removing nut and the washer under it, and there is another
"nut" that appears to take a spanner wrench with about 1/8" tips (which
tool I do not have).

A hinged pin spanner with 1/8" pins on the sides of the arms
works quite well for the purpose. (The same one which I use for
mounting grinding wheels on my tiny surface grinder.) These are
available through MSC (and other machine tool vendors), or can often be
found in eBay auctions.

For an example what to look for, check out auction #4361720105.

This one has 4mm pins, which are a little big (0.1575" instead
of 0.125", but it might fit). Or you could file the pins a bit narrower
to make it work.

You could also make your own by taking some 1/8" thick steel,
cutting a half-moon with a notch to clear the center bolt, drilling two
1/8" holes, and driving two 1/8" pins into them to engage the slots on
the top of the threaded cylinder.

I've tried tightening it with a makeshift tool
but it doesn't appear to have done much good. Do I need to get the
right tool and tighten the thing properly, or does the problem lie
elsewhere?

Again -- this is another place for Loctite. unscrew it (it will
be a cylinder with a flange at the top and a short threaded section at
the bottom). Clean all oil off the threads in both parts. Make sure
that the large threaded cylinder with the locking lever does not come
out -- or if it does, make sure that both wedges travel through the
proper range when you reassemble it. Then hit the threads on the bottom
of the cylinder with some primer, put on a little heavy-duty Loctite,
and reassemble with the pin spanner to snug it down. Wait a little
while (perhaps an hour or two) before you tighten the nut which secures
it to the compound, just to make sure that the Loctite sets properly
first.

I've done this with mine (Phase-II brand) and have had no more
trouble -- though since I shift the toolpost so seldom, I don't find it
a real problem anyway.

You *can* undo the Loctite with applied heat, but it is better
if you don't need to. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I have commented on this subject often and I still find it amazing that the
mulifix toolposts used in Europe are just about unknown in North America.
They are infinitely better than any piston or wedge Aloris type quick change
toolpost, because the toolpost head is indexable every 15 degrees. They are
extremely well made and always returns to the same place. Additionally,
there are a large variety of different tool holders that are compatible and
many of these are not available in the Aloris type holders, like camming
toolholders for internal and external treading. An example can be found by
doing a search for multifix in eBay.de. They come in various sizes ranging
from Aa to Dd and each toolholder will have a number like AD25100. Where A =
the head size, D = the tool holder type, 25 = the tool slot width and height
and 100 = the holder length. As a rule of thumb the Aa size is for 7"
machines, the A size is for 10 - 12" machines, the B size is for 13 -15"
machines, the C size is for 16 -19" machines and the D for 19 - 22"
machines. These are made in Germany, Austria and Switzerland by various
firms like Haase and are usually compatible to each other. New, they are
very expensive. They last forever and are available used at reasonable
prices. I have used them exclusively for 25 years.
Steve

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello all:

About four years ago I bought a SB 14" which came with a Haidao 250-222
quick change toolpost, wedge type. What I know about QC toolposts is
what little I've been able to glean from ten minutes searching RCM
archives. So:

1. Where can I purchase additional tool holders? Preferably El Cheapo
brand, I'm not terribly picky. This is, presumably, a 200 series, and
other 200-series holders fit it, correct?

2. I seem to be having some difficulty with keeping the post screwed
down properly. At first there's about two threads that show above the
top nut. But as I loosen and tighten the nut to change the angle, the
threaded stud seems to work its way down, slowly. And it takes more
than a half-turn of the wrench to loosen the nut completely.

I've tried removing nut and the washer under it, and there is another
"nut" that appears to take a spanner wrench with about 1/8" tips (which
tool I do not have). I've tried tightening it with a makeshift tool
but it doesn't appear to have done much good. Do I need to get the
right tool and tighten the thing properly, or does the problem lie
elsewhere?

Thanks for any help,
P'rfesser

Don:

Thanks a gazillion! Very useful information!! To answer a question, I
shift the compound angle probably more often than most guys. 15
degrees for the exit cone of a nozzle for a rocket motor, then 45
degrees for the entrance cone. Material: Graphite, AKA "compressed
filth".... grin

Thanks again -- P'rfesser