I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob

I bought there 66 bit set for $199 a few years back. I am very pelased with
it, especially for the price. I am sure expensive bits are better, but the
MLCS bits have worked out quite well for me. They have friendly customer
service as well. (I had a bearing go bad.) I have some of the bits alot and
they have held up quite well.

Joe in Denver
My Woodworking Website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/



"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob

bits are good -- I have been buying quite a few lately. It would appear that
the Katana line is a cut above the normal bits. One nice thing is shipping
is free in the lower 48. It makes it easy to buy a single bit when you need
something special for a project without worrying about being killed by the
shiping charge

They have a good deal on three spiral bits -- something like $49 for a 1/4,
3/8 and 1/2 -- can't beat the price



"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob

I have used a number and found they work fine.
However... I bought a spiral bit specifically to reduce tear out with my
box joint jig. Sadly the bit was way undersized, so the joints didn't fit.
I complained to MLCS. They said they were all undersized, but they were
glad to refund my money (less s&h).
Not as good as a correct size bit, but better than a complete loss.

Hi Robatoy,

Have used MLCS bits for 5+ years or more (for some).
They are a good value for the hobbyist. How can you
go wrong at $3 / bit if you buy an "Anniverary" set?

I bought separate bits which I thought that I would actually use.
None has disappointed and I am going back to buy
a few Katanas to see if they hold an edge a little longer.

Generally, I would recommend them. Great service too.

Lou

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:

I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob

Robatoy wrote:

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Rob...

I've bought a few of their bits. They were sharp and hold up
fairly well. I'll probably buy more from them.

Most of my routing is done on a CNC machine and in that context
I've observed that:

[1] spiral bits aren't quite as good as straight bits for tearout
[2] down spiral bits are good for helping to hold work down and
producing clean edges
[3] up spiral bits are good for chip removal - which may be
important when cutting deep mortises. They tend to lift the work
and produce "fuzzy" edges.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 19:21:42 -0500, Robatoy
wrote:

I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob


I have used them for several years and find they do a real good job
for me. I don't use them a lot so I don't know how production work on
them would be. For me, I have been very well pleased, both with their
quality and the service from MLCS.

Allyn

"toller" wrote in message
...
I have used a number and found they work fine.
However... I bought a spiral bit specifically to reduce tear out with my
box joint jig. Sadly the bit was way undersized, so the joints didn't
fit. I complained to MLCS. They said they were all undersized, but they
were glad to refund my money (less s&h).
Not as good as a correct size bit, but better than a complete loss.


The bit is defective and they would not refund shipping? There are sellers
with much more class than that.

I would look for a more recently satisfied customer. The nature of these
companies importing and branding the bits with their own name suggests that
they can change manufacturers and the bits look the same but might not
perform the same. Many years ago I bought Woodcraft (Woodtech?) router bits
and weas very satisfied with them. We used them everyday day and felt that
they were a real bargain. They weren't CMT but they cost a lot less and
worked properly. I am now starting up my shop again and am not sure they are
as good as they used to be.
max

I bought there 66 bit set for $199 a few years back. I am very pelased with
it, especially for the price. I am sure expensive bits are better, but the
MLCS bits have worked out quite well for me. They have friendly customer
service as well. (I had a bearing go bad.) I have some of the bits alot and
they have held up quite well.

Joe in Denver
My Woodworking Website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/



"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
I saw an ad in Woodwork.

MLCS routerbits.

Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?

I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.

Thanx in advance

0¿0

Rob

"toller" wrote in message
...
I have used a number and found they work fine.
However... I bought a spiral bit specifically to reduce tear out with my
box joint jig. Sadly the bit was way undersized, so the joints didn't
fit.
I complained to MLCS. They said they were all undersized, but they were
glad to refund my money (less s&h).
Not as good as a correct size bit, but better than a complete loss.


What kind of box joint jig? Must have been something like a comb for a
dovetail jig. Straddle fence types adjust with a tap to fit any bit.

In article ,=20
says...
I saw an ad in Woodwork.
=20
MLCS routerbits.
=20
Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?
=20
I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.
=20
Thanx in advance
=20
0=BF0
=20
Rob
=20
I bought the dovetail set for use with the leigh jig. I've only tried=20
one of the bits, but it was undersized and did a very poor job. The=20
Leigh bits work great, and cut better so I'll just stick with them from=20
now on. I'm debating selling the MLCS set on e-bay, but I hate to stick=20
someone else with it. Any offers? Possibly this was the only bad bit in=20
the set, but I'm not going to waste my time, or materials finding out.=20
Straight bits are probably fine.

Zeke

change com to net for e-mail

"Zeke" wrote in message
th.net...
I bought the dovetail set for use with the leigh jig. I've only tried
one of the bits, but it was undersized and did a very poor job. The
Leigh bits work great, and cut better so I'll just stick with them from
now on. I'm debating selling the MLCS set on e-bay, but I hate to stick
someone else with it. Any offers? Possibly this was the only bad bit in
the set, but I'm not going to waste my time, or materials finding out.
Straight bits are probably fine.

Zeke

OK, I'll bite. How far out do they have to be to exceed the adjustment
capability of the jig? You _have_ read the manual on how to compensate for
individual bits? The Leigh people recognize the reality that bits are
different even within the _same_ manufacturer's line.

In article , george@least says...


OK, I'll bite. How far out do they have to be to exceed the adjustment
capability of the jig? You _have_ read the manual on how to compensate for
individual bits? The Leigh people recognize the reality that bits are
different even within the _same_ manufacturer's line.

Bite away George, but don't choke on it. I've read the instructions,
have you_ever_used the jig? How does the adjustment capability of the
jig affect the fit of half blind dovetails? A hint, it doesn't. The
angle of the bit does however, but if you had read the instructions you
would know that. I don't know if the bit I tried was undersized, or the
wrong angle, and I don't care. The bit did a very poor job for me. Like
it or not, that is my opinion.

Zeke

change com to net for e-mail

"Zeke" wrote in message
h.net...
In article , george@least says...


OK, I'll bite. How far out do they have to be to exceed the adjustment
capability of the jig? You _have_ read the manual on how to compensate
for
individual bits? The Leigh people recognize the reality that bits are
different even within the _same_ manufacturer's line.

Bite away George, but don't choke on it. I've read the instructions,
have you_ever_used the jig? How does the adjustment capability of the
jig affect the fit of half blind dovetails? A hint, it doesn't. The
angle of the bit does however, but if you had read the instructions you
would know that. I don't know if the bit I tried was undersized, or the
wrong angle, and I don't care. The bit did a very poor job for me. Like
it or not, that is my opinion.

Zeke


You might want to read it again.

I didn't consider half-blind, because with half-blind, you use a single bit.
What's left behind is the complement of what cut it. Angle no player.

If you had loose or tight joints, you have to adjust the _depth_ of the bit
with half blind. This compensates for differences in diameter. Key to
recognition is the error noted will be consistent from cut to cut.

There is one more potential gotcha, and that's a combination of poor
centering of the guide, and rotating the router when cutting. This will
give inconsistent results from tail to tail.

You'll want to check both of them with any bit and collar, or you're in for
more disappointment.

Heimlich administered.

In article , george@least says...


You might want to read it again.

I didn't consider half-blind, because with half-blind, you use a single bit.
What's left behind is the complement of what cut it. Angle no player.

If you had loose or tight joints, you have to adjust the _depth_ of the bit
with half blind. This compensates for differences in diameter. Key to
recognition is the error noted will be consistent from cut to cut.

There is one more potential gotcha, and that's a combination of poor
centering of the guide, and rotating the router when cutting. This will
give inconsistent results from tail to tail.

You'll want to check both of them with any bit and collar, or you're in for
more disappointment.

Heimlich administered.




George, I was simply responding to a question about router bits, I was
not asking for advice on the Leigh jig. I am in no way dissapointed in
the results I get from the jig. The centering of the guide or rotating
the router is not the problem. As I said, I get great results from Leigh
bits, so its not jig setup or router technique. The bit in question will
not produce a tight joint without lowering the bit beyond its cutting
depth. If you still can't believe it send me the postage and you can
have the damn thing.

Zeke
change com to net for e-mail

Use it for thinner wood.

"Zeke" wrote in message
th.net...
In article , george@least says...
George, I was simply responding to a question about router bits, I was
not asking for advice on the Leigh jig. I am in no way dissapointed in
the results I get from the jig. The centering of the guide or rotating
the router is not the problem. As I said, I get great results from Leigh
bits, so its not jig setup or router technique. The bit in question will
not produce a tight joint without lowering the bit beyond its cutting
depth. If you still can't believe it send me the postage and you can
have the damn thing.

In article , george@least says...
Use it for thinner wood.

You should remember to use a smiley face when you try to make funnies,
someone might think you actually believe this would work. I took your
advice and looked at the manual. Here is a link to the relevant chapter
from the leigh site:
http://www.leighjigs.com/data/D4Ch10.pdf
Look at page 76 under the big red IMPORTANT heading. Then come back and
tell me again that angle is not a factor.
My original comment stands. But on the bright side I won't have to
'stick' anyone else with the set. You've shown me that I can list it on
e-bay with my honest opinion, and someone like you will buy it. Thanks.

Zeke
change com to net for e-mail