I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing. This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges? I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?
Thanks for any assistance.

making myself clear?

Very clear. If your jointer takes off more on one end of each board, feed the
boards through starting at alternate ends. Just keep good track of your layout
and which edge goes where. I wonder if this might be a good application for a
planer. Joint all the boards, bundle them together with the jointed edge down
and bun the through the planer. Just and idea. Mike in Arkansas

On 17 Oct 2004 16:04:02 -0700, Doug wrote:

I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing. This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges? I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?
Thanks for any assistance.

Ok, here is how I do it. First, my glue-up is intentionally oversized. I
will cut the final size and make sure it is square once I am finished. I
joint the one edge and rip to width just as you describe. Yes, there is
one edge that is rougher. At some point I run everything through the
thickness planer to make sure they are the same thickness. Now, I take
each mating edge and run them through the jointer at the same time. That
way, any minor diversion from 90 degrees on my jointer will not be a
problem. Whatever the real angle, the mating surfaces will have
complementary angles. Therefore, the boards will lay flat. I do not
concern myself with the edges ending up exactly parallel at this point.
Why? Because, as I mentioned, I will do my final sizing and squaring after
the glue-up is complete.

Brian

In article , (Doug) wrote:
I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing.

If you're getting a better quality surface from the jointer, then you need to
check the alignment of your table saw, clean your blade, refine your
technique, get a better blade, get a better fence, get a better saw, or some
combination of the above.

This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges?

You mean, giving you two less-than-perfect edges. :-)

I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?

A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.

It's right to be concerned about the jointer leaving non-parallel edges, but
if (a) the jointer is properly set up, (b) the edges are parallel coming off
the table saw, and (c) you take a light cut on the jointer, then you don't
really need to worry. If it's off, it won't be by more than a few hairs.




--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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JMWEBER987 wrote:

making myself clear?

Very clear. If your jointer takes off more on one end of each board, feed
the
boards through starting at alternate ends. Just keep good track of your
layout
and which edge goes where. I wonder if this might be a good application
for a
planer. Joint all the boards, bundle them together with the jointed edge
down
and bun the through the planer. Just and idea. Mike in Arkansas


Mike, that will work, only if his boards are narrow enough to go through the
planer. On my DeWalt 733 that means less than 6". At that he had best use
some good hand screws to keep all boards together and aligned.

Deb

On 17 Oct 2004 16:04:02 -0700, (Doug) wrote:

I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing. This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges? I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?
Thanks for any assistance.


if your saw blade produces a surface that leaves visible gaps at the
glue line you can do either of 2 things.
1 get a better blade
2 clean up the edge. one pass on the jointer, especially with the
jointer set to take a very fine cut won't get you out of parallel
enough to matter.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:BvDcd.15354
A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.


Doug, You must be referring to a HF jointer or one that is set-up poorly,
dull or not being operated properly.

My Unisaw is setup perfectly, with clean and sharp blades and yet the cut is
never as clean and perfect as a pass through my jointer.

The OP wants to insure perfectly parallel pieces for a glue-up. My
procedure has been the same for many years.

Joint two sides, insuring a perfect 90, use the jointed side against the TS
fence and down on the table,
rip a touch oversize, joint the ripped edge flat, glue, clamp, run through
planer (or neander flat), cut to final width and length.

Dave

Dave responds:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:BvDcd.15354
A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.


Doug, You must be referring to a HF jointer or one that is set-up poorly,
dull or not being operated properly.

My Unisaw is setup perfectly, with clean and sharp blades and yet the cut is
never as clean and perfect as a pass through my jointer.

Then you're doing something wrong, possibly starting with blade selection. A 30
tooth (10" diameter) rip blade in top condition, properly set up, on any of the
last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington

"Charlie Self" wrote,

last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was
correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.

Get some glasses.

Dave

In article , "TeamCasa" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:BvDcd.15354
A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.


Doug, You must be referring to a HF jointer or one that is set-up poorly,
dull or not being operated properly.

Not in my shop.

My Unisaw is setup perfectly, with clean and sharp blades and yet the cut is
never as clean and perfect as a pass through my jointer.

There's something amiss, then -- possibly your choice of saw blade. Or perhaps
you and I have radically different understandings of the phrases "setup
perfectly" and "clean and perfect".

No matter how good your jointer is, or how well it's set up, it simply isn't
possible to obtain a dead flat surface (my understanding of "clean and
perfect") with a jointer: at some scale, the surface left by a jointer is
scalloped. Better quality tools, careful setup, sharp knives, and careful
technique all work to minimize the extent of the scalloping, but cannot
eliminate it altogether.

If you're getting better edges with your jointer than you are with your table
saw, then there's something wrong with your table saw.

The OP wants to insure perfectly parallel pieces for a glue-up. My
procedure has been the same for many years.

Joint two sides, insuring a perfect 90, use the jointed side against the TS
fence and down on the table,

OK so far, although I'd prefer to use more specific terminology, e.g. "Joint
one face and one edge... use the jointed edge against the TS fence and the
jointed face down on the table".

rip a touch oversize, joint the ripped edge flat

On a correctly aligned, well-made table saw using a decent fence and a decent
blade, this is totally unnecessary, as the ripped edge is already flat.

If this doesn't happen on your saw, you need one or more of a better saw, a
better blade, a better fence, better alignment tools, better alignment
technique, or better ripping technique.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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Charlie speaks the truth.. I have both machines mentioned
and my 40 year table saw will produce an edge as good as
my one year old DJ20.

This is with a decent, sharp blade.


TeamCasa wrote:

"Charlie Self" wrote,


last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was
correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.


Get some glasses.

Dave

Dave snarls:

"Charlie Self" wrote,

last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was
correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.

Get some glasses.

So brilliant. Wonderful response. Helpful, full of facts.

Full of something.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington

Doug,
I assure you my equipment is setup correctly. My blades range from custom
made ones, Systematic, Ridge Carbide to the WW11 from Forrest. They are all
maintained well and very sharp.

I'll grant you that in most cases, when the wood cooperates, the cuts do
come out of the TS fine enough for gluing. But, as many woodworkers and
no-doubt you will also admit, when ripping some woods, they can sometimes
become unruly when sliced. This is simply not preventable and we all know
it. This will affect the quality of the cut.

The jointer will produce a better surface on a more consistent basis over a
greater range of woods and conditions. Even Charlie will have to admit
this.

Doug said:
OK so far, although I'd prefer to use more specific terminology, e.g.
"Joint
one face and one edge... use the jointed edge against the TS fence and the
jointed face down on the table".

Agreed.

Dave

Dave notes:

I assure you my equipment is setup correctly. My blades range from custom
made ones, Systematic, Ridge Carbide to the WW11 from Forrest. They are all
maintained well and very sharp.

I'll grant you that in most cases, when the wood cooperates, the cuts do
come out of the TS fine enough for gluing. But, as many woodworkers and
no-doubt you will also admit, when ripping some woods, they can sometimes
become unruly when sliced. This is simply not preventable and we all know
it. This will affect the quality of the cut.


Of course it will. And under a glass, say a 4X or 8X photo loupe, you can
easily see that a jointed edge is cleaner than a sawn edge. But with the nekkid
eye, it can be diffcult to tell the difference. And I tend to leave my loupes
in places other than the shop. My point being, it is seldom necessary to joint
that second edge to get a good, solid glue up. But, as with all generalities,
there are weaknesses in the statement. Reaction wood is one weakness. There are
others, and there are some species of wood where jointing may be more often
needed.

And for many people, jointer technique and jointer set up are going to
contribute to lesser edges on the second edge. They may take off a shade too
much, rock the board, or any of innumerable other actions that reduce the
cleanness, and parallel, of the edge.

So, IMHO, it's better to try for a near perfect first jointed edge, and then
use a properly set up saw to produce a rip that is glue-line quality. Several
companies, including DeWalt, put out 40 tooth (10") so-called 'finish' rip
blades. These are apt to give an even smoother edge than the 30 tooth glue-line
types. High speed (feed speed) 24 tooth rip blades are not in the same class,
for the most part.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington

"Doug" wrote in message
I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing. This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges? I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?
Thanks for any assistance.

IMO, it is a matter of personal preference and/or the way you're accustomed
to doing certain operations. For instance, I almost always joint both edges
of a critical glueup, even with a sharp(ened) WWII on the table saw. From a
recent post that addresses your "parallel edges" query:

When you do your layout for your glue-up, and after you've used your
"cabinet maker's mark" of choice to mark the order of the boards, faceup,
put an "I"
on one side, and an "O" on the opposite side of each joint with a piece of
chalk/pencil.

"I" (inside) means that face goes against the jointer fence.

"O" (outside) means that face goes away from the jointer fence.

This will go a long way to insuring you take advantage of complementary
angles without getting mixed up, and will speed the process tremendously

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

wrote in message . ..
On 17 Oct 2004 16:04:02 -0700, (Doug) wrote:

I'm putting together a oak table top. Typically one would dimension a
piece of wood by jointing one edge, then ripping the other edge,
parallel, on the TS. My concern is that I don't get the same quality
surface by ripping then I do by jointing. This will, in essence, give
me one less-than perfect edge for each joint when I go to glue up the
top. Should I add one last step by running the just-ripped edge
through the jointer, giving me two jointed edges? I'm planning to do
this, it seems like the best option, I'm just concerned that by
jointing both edges I might not get the perfect parallel edges that I
would with the first plan. I'm I making myself clear?
Thanks for any assistance.


if your saw blade produces a surface that leaves visible gaps at the
glue line you can do either of 2 things.
1 get a better blade
2 clean up the edge. one pass on the jointer, especially with the
jointer set to take a very fine cut won't get you out of parallel
enough to matter.



Thanks for all of the comments. It sounds like I will go with the
above suggestion (the way I was leaning anyway!). It seems like a
light pass after ripping won't do anything more than clean up the saw
marks, and won't throw the edge far enough out of parallel to the
other side to be of concern.

I'm interested by the debate over the quality of the edge after either
ripping or jointing. I have a brand new jointer and the edge it gives
is superior. I will admit that my TS is only of mediocre quality, but
I just can't imagine ever getting the edge as perfect as one can with
a properly tuned jointer. Guess I better keep working on my technique
(I do use featherboards, and outfeed tables

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 19:49:19 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote:

Charlie speaks the truth.. I have both machines mentioned
and my 40 year table saw will produce an edge as good as
my one year old DJ20.

This is with a decent, sharp blade.

My 1 year old General 650 will do the same with a WWII.

I also have a DJ-20, so I actually do the comparison myself. G

Barry

In article , "Swingman" wrote:

recent post that addresses your "parallel edges" query:

When you do your layout for your glue-up, and after you've used your
"cabinet maker's mark" of choice to mark the order of the boards, faceup,
put an "I"
on one side, and an "O" on the opposite side of each joint with a piece of
chalk/pencil.

"I" (inside) means that face goes against the jointer fence.

"O" (outside) means that face goes away from the jointer fence.

This will go a long way to insuring you take advantage of complementary
angles without getting mixed up, and will speed the process tremendously

This process does indeed eliminate any worries about edge parallelism across
the width, by insuring that any errors that may exist will cancel each other
out when the glue-up is assembled.

However, it does nothing to address the worries about edge parallelism along
the length. Jointing both edges of a board risks introducing a taper -- which
was the concern cited by the original poster IIRC.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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In article , (Doug) wrote:
I'm interested by the debate over the quality of the edge after either
ripping or jointing. I have a brand new jointer and the edge it gives
is superior. I will admit that my TS is only of mediocre quality, but
I just can't imagine ever getting the edge as perfect as one can with
a properly tuned jointer. Guess I better keep working on my technique
(I do use featherboards, and outfeed tables

You'd be amazed at how much improvement you'll get from a really good blade
(such as a Forrest WoodWorker II), even on a mediocre table saw.

--
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Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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"Doug Miller" wrote in message

However, it does nothing to address the worries about edge parallelism
along
the length. Jointing both edges of a board risks introducing a taper --
which
was the concern cited by the original poster IIRC.

Obviously, were you jointing rough stock it would be misuse of the tool, but
I don't recall that being the situation here.

IME, any "worries' would be minimal at worst ... in practice, a light pass
over the jointer should not be a big concern.

--
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Last update: 10/04/04

Charlie Self wrote:
Dave snarls:


"Charlie Self" wrote,


last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was
correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.

Get some glasses.


So brilliant. Wonderful response. Helpful, full of facts.

Full of something.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington
so..charlie...you don't already wear glasses huh? heh heh - i get
baby-butt smooth edges with a Forrest WWII blade. i do one edge first on
the jointer then the opposite edge on the tablesaw. works for me!

can i call you four-eyes now?

Philski

One more observation. I have a Forrest WWII on my saw. I have a
jointer. I match up the cut edges from the TS. Sometimes, there's no
way I can improve on the fitup with a pass over the jointer. The cut
off the TS looks polished and perfectly flat. What's to improve upon?
Other times, a pass over the jointer is needed. Ain't no one answer
right all the time in my shop. YMMV.

bob g.

TeamCasa wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:BvDcd.15354

A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.



Doug, You must be referring to a HF jointer or one that is set-up poorly,
dull or not being operated properly.

My Unisaw is setup perfectly, with clean and sharp blades and yet the cut is
never as clean and perfect as a pass through my jointer.

The OP wants to insure perfectly parallel pieces for a glue-up. My
procedure has been the same for many years.

Joint two sides, insuring a perfect 90, use the jointed side against the TS
fence and down on the table,
rip a touch oversize, joint the ripped edge flat, glue, clamp, run through
planer (or neander flat), cut to final width and length.

Dave

Got glasses. Use loops on occasion. No magic in the jointer. Smooth
is smooth, regardless of which tool produces the surface.

bob g.

TeamCasa wrote:

"Charlie Self" wrote,


last three saws I've owned gives an edge almost indistinguishable from the
jointed edge. Most of the time, the jointer used was a DJ20 that was
correctly
set, with sharp blades. Both edges were excellent.


Get some glasses.

Dave

Neither tool, saw or jointer is going to produce the kind of surface the
Hubbell guys are looking for. With experience, every woodworker
learns to recognize the surface that's good enough for the kind of work
he's doing. I maintain, a good saw blade or a jointer can both produce
this surface. I've used a number of blades on the saw that never gave
me that surface. The one that came with the saw was a prime example. I
don't own stock in Forrest. His is the first blade I bought that would
give me the kind of surface I'd put up against the jointer so I've
stopped looking. Buying saw blades isn't one of my primary hobbies but
that could change. The scalloped surface produced by the jointer has a
lot to do with the feed rate. Feed slowly and the scallops will be a
lot smaller and finer. When they get fine enough, they are not
significant in the scale we worry about in woodworking. The Hubbell
guys??? they got their own problems.

bob g.

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , "TeamCasa" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message news:BvDcd.15354

A good rip blade on a properly aligned table saw leaves a better edge for
gluing than a jointer does.


Doug, You must be referring to a HF jointer or one that is set-up poorly,
dull or not being operated properly.


Not in my shop.

My Unisaw is setup perfectly, with clean and sharp blades and yet the cut is
never as clean and perfect as a pass through my jointer.


There's something amiss, then -- possibly your choice of saw blade. Or perhaps
you and I have radically different understandings of the phrases "setup
perfectly" and "clean and perfect".

No matter how good your jointer is, or how well it's set up, it simply isn't
possible to obtain a dead flat surface (my understanding of "clean and
perfect") with a jointer: at some scale, the surface left by a jointer is
scalloped. Better quality tools, careful setup, sharp knives, and careful
technique all work to minimize the extent of the scalloping, but cannot
eliminate it altogether.

If you're getting better edges with your jointer than you are with your table
saw, then there's something wrong with your table saw.

The OP wants to insure perfectly parallel pieces for a glue-up. My
procedure has been the same for many years.

Joint two sides, insuring a perfect 90, use the jointed side against the TS
fence and down on the table,


OK so far, although I'd prefer to use more specific terminology, e.g. "Joint
one face and one edge... use the jointed edge against the TS fence and the
jointed face down on the table".


rip a touch oversize, joint the ripped edge flat


On a correctly aligned, well-made table saw using a decent fence and a decent
blade, this is totally unnecessary, as the ripped edge is already flat.

If this doesn't happen on your saw, you need one or more of a better saw, a
better blade, a better fence, better alignment tools, better alignment
technique, or better ripping technique.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
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Ok, so you look at your fitup and decide whether a pass over the jointer
is indicated. What's that old saying about hard an fast rules being the
hobgoblin of something? Damn, getting old is the pits. CRS.

bob g.

TeamCasa wrote:

Doug,
I assure you my equipment is setup correctly. My blades range from custom
made ones, Systematic, Ridge Carbide to the WW11 from Forrest. They are all
maintained well and very sharp.

I'll grant you that in most cases, when the wood cooperates, the cuts do
come out of the TS fine enough for gluing. But, as many woodworkers and
no-doubt you will also admit, when ripping some woods, they can sometimes
become unruly when sliced. This is simply not preventable and we all know
it. This will affect the quality of the cut.

The jointer will produce a better surface on a more consistent basis over a
greater range of woods and conditions. Even Charlie will have to admit
this.

Doug said:

OK so far, although I'd prefer to use more specific terminology, e.g.
"Joint
one face and one edge... use the jointed edge against the TS fence and the
jointed face down on the table".


Agreed.

Dave

philski asks:

so..charlie...you don't already wear glasses huh? heh heh - i get
baby-butt smooth edges with a Forrest WWII blade. i do one edge first on
the jointer then the opposite edge on the tablesaw. works for me!

can i call you four-eyes now?

Actually, I've worn glasses most of my life. No longer need them for distance,
since cataract surgery a couple years ago, but I do need them for reading and
close up.

So, four-eyes is still right.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington

"Robert Galloway" wrote in message

Ain't no one answer
right all the time in my shop. YMMV.

Bingo!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

In article , "Swingman" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message

However, it does nothing to address the worries about edge parallelism
along
the length. Jointing both edges of a board risks introducing a taper --
which
was the concern cited by the original poster IIRC.

Obviously, were you jointing rough stock it would be misuse of the tool, but
I don't recall that being the situation here.

IME, any "worries' would be minimal at worst ... in practice, a light pass
over the jointer should not be a big concern.

Quite true -- in fact, I said so in my response to the OP -- but it's a valid
concern. If you joint after ripping, you can't be guaranteed of parallel edges
any more. All you can do is act to minimize the degree of divergence.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
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"Doug Miller" wrote in message
In article "Swingman" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message

However, it does nothing to address the worries about edge parallelism
along
the length. Jointing both edges of a board risks introducing a taper --
which
was the concern cited by the original poster IIRC.

Obviously, were you jointing rough stock it would be misuse of the tool,
but
I don't recall that being the situation here.

IME, any "worries' would be minimal at worst ... in practice, a light
pass
over the jointer should not be a big concern.

Quite true -- in fact, I said so in my response to the OP -- but it's a
valid
concern. If you joint after ripping, you can't be guaranteed of parallel
edges
any more. All you can do is act to minimize the degree of divergence.

IMO, you are simply making a mountain out of a molehill in the OP's
situation. Ripping to final width will insure the two edges that count are
parallel ... wooddorkers need to apply a little common sense to their
theoretical "concerns".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04

Charlie Self wrote:

philski asks:


so..charlie...you don't already wear glasses huh? heh heh - i get
baby-butt smooth edges with a Forrest WWII blade. i do one edge first on
the jointer then the opposite edge on the tablesaw. works for me!

can i call you four-eyes now?


Actually, I've worn glasses most of my life. No longer need them for distance,
since cataract surgery a couple years ago, but I do need them for reading and
close up.

So, four-eyes is still right.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington
i too have been near-sighted since i was 5 or 6. i have been wearing
contacts for the last 30 years or so but when they are out, it is
bi-focals for me. i usually wear glasses vs contacts in the shop because
wood dust under a lens is just hell. i too have been called 4-eyes many
times (mostly by my departed dad). but hey, just remember ( i got this
line last night watching Carlin intro MNF) "If your're not the lead dog,
the view is always the same!"

Philski

Exactly.
Dave

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

IMO, it is a matter of personal preference and/or the way you're
accustomed
to doing certain operations. For instance, I almost always joint both
edges
of a critical glueup, even with a sharp(ened) WWII on the table saw. From
a
recent post that addresses your "parallel edges" query:

When you do your layout for your glue-up, and after you've used your
"cabinet maker's mark" of choice to mark the order of the boards, faceup,
put an "I"
on one side, and an "O" on the opposite side of each joint with a piece of
chalk/pencil.

"I" (inside) means that face goes against the jointer fence.

"O" (outside) means that face goes away from the jointer fence.

This will go a long way to insuring you take advantage of complementary
angles without getting mixed up, and will speed the process tremendously

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Last update: 10/04/04