Dave notes:

I assure you my equipment is setup correctly. My blades range from custom
made ones, Systematic, Ridge Carbide to the WW11 from Forrest. They are all
maintained well and very sharp.

I'll grant you that in most cases, when the wood cooperates, the cuts do
come out of the TS fine enough for gluing. But, as many woodworkers and
no-doubt you will also admit, when ripping some woods, they can sometimes
become unruly when sliced. This is simply not preventable and we all know
it. This will affect the quality of the cut.


Of course it will. And under a glass, say a 4X or 8X photo loupe, you can
easily see that a jointed edge is cleaner than a sawn edge. But with the nekkid
eye, it can be diffcult to tell the difference. And I tend to leave my loupes
in places other than the shop. My point being, it is seldom necessary to joint
that second edge to get a good, solid glue up. But, as with all generalities,
there are weaknesses in the statement. Reaction wood is one weakness. There are
others, and there are some species of wood where jointing may be more often
needed.

And for many people, jointer technique and jointer set up are going to
contribute to lesser edges on the second edge. They may take off a shade too
much, rock the board, or any of innumerable other actions that reduce the
cleanness, and parallel, of the edge.

So, IMHO, it's better to try for a near perfect first jointed edge, and then
use a properly set up saw to produce a rip that is glue-line quality. Several
companies, including DeWalt, put out 40 tooth (10") so-called 'finish' rip
blades. These are apt to give an even smoother edge than the 30 tooth glue-line
types. High speed (feed speed) 24 tooth rip blades are not in the same class,
for the most part.

Charlie Self
"There are two ways of exerting one's strength: one is pushing down, the other
is pulling up." Booker T. Washington