Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of 1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John

On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of 1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John



I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to the
challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in multiples of 50.

http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.

Leon wrote:
On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of 1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John



I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to the
challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in multiples of 50.

http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.


Thanks for the link. I ordered a few to play with. Have never used
Euro hinges before. Do I need a special forstner bit for the one you
mentioned?

--
G.W. Ross

Snow and adolescence are the only
problems that go away if ignored long
enough.

wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast
cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for
the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with
shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but
that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use
the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of
1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I
glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door
sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the
whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the
doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the
1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door.
A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?


You are making hollow doors, should be fine. The only problem you may
encounter is with hinges and that depends on the type. Your doors are going
to wind up about 1 1/4 thick so you need hinges for that.

When I make hollow doors (or panels) I rip the rails/stiles a 2x4 so that
they are 1/2 or 5/8" thick. I butt glue the rails to the stiles and run 2 -
1/4" dowels through each corner of the stile into the rails.

For skins, I use luaun door skins which are 1/8" thick. They are glued on
with yellow glue. Concrete blocks might work, don't know as I use home made
clamps along each edge which is where you want the pressure, not in the
middle. The clamps are rings about 3/4" wide cut off a 2" PVC pipe and then
split on one side. One doesn't put on much pressure but when thay are
spaced 6" or so apart it is plenty.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Leon wrote:


I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to
the challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in
multiples of 50.
http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.

Leon - you don't have any issues with the screws holding well in the MDF
door?

--

-Mike-

wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast
cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for
the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with
shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but
that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use
the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of
1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I
glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door
sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the
whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the
doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the
1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door.
A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John

Well - for cheap and dirty John, you could simplify your idea. Nix the
second layer of plywood. If you glue the 1x4 to the backing plywood, it
will be "good enough" for ugly shop doors. I'd use Tightbond rather than
Liquid Nails. It'll be ready to go the next day. I would also make sure
that I glued all of the 1x4's to each other where they butt together - that
will unify the structure more.

Of course it will be a second rate job - since you're not using acetylene
torches, or a mig welder, or multiple coats of urethane clear coat. But...

--

-Mike-

On 12/11/2012 9:20 AM, G. Ross wrote:


Thanks for the link. I ordered a few to play with. Have never used
Euro hinges before. Do I need a special forstner bit for the one you
mentioned?

Go back and check out that link. The specifications say the hinge
pockets are 35mm. If you happen to have a Forstner in that size you're
good to go, otherwise dig out that wallet againg

Note also that they list a .pdf file (without a link) containing
instructions. DAGS and you'll probably find all that you need.

One other suggestion that I'm thinking of incorporating in some wall
hung tool cabinets I hope to build this winter.

After installing new doors throughout the house this past year, I have a
load of door hinges that I refused to toss in the garbage. I'm going to
make some wall cabinets framed out in quality 2x lumber, "milled down"
to avoid the rounded edges.

The wall cabinet itself will be 2X with appropriately sized cross pieces
along the back to give it strength, provide for hanging and to support
the interior back wall which will be perforated hardboard or maybe
slatwall (not sure on that yet)

I'm envisioning the cabinet being either 4' or 5' wide with double doors
(2' or 2½') hinged on either side the framework (rails & stiles) will be
similarly "milled" out of 2x lumber and depth is to be determined. I'll
"skin" the face with 1/4" ply but otherwise the door will be pretty much
a mirror image of the cabinet itself with plenty of storage on the
inside. 3 door hinges to either side should provide all the strength
needed to keep them hanging straight.

On 12/11/2012 9:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:

with yellow glue. Concrete blocks might work, don't know as I use home made
clamps along each edge which is where you want the pressure, not in the
middle. The clamps are rings about 3/4" wide cut off a 2" PVC pipe and then
split on one side. One doesn't put on much pressure but when thay are
spaced 6" or so apart it is plenty.

I'd heard of that shop tip in the past but had forgotten about it.
Thanks for reminding us all of that cheap, customizable alternative to
Bessey, et alg

On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:

I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use.

Not necessarily. When I retrofitted and moved back into my old shop last
year, I used 3/4" MDF (the green stuff Leon mentioned) for the cabinet
doors.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...48498659302354

Here's the entire retrofit:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...pRetrofit2011#

If your doors are extra large, just use three hinges on each door.

I had "Salice Silentia Soft-Close" 3/4 overlay hinges leftover from
another job, and used those for the shop cabinets, but any decent Euro
hinge will work.

Once painted, a good quality MDF door is as good, utility wise, as any
wooden door, and a lot cheaper and easier on the budget.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/11/12 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets to
keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast cheap and
dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors
but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use. I
could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that is a lot
of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the expensive
baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet
of
1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued a
series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes. Then I
glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing with
concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by ripping
them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end up with a
light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of doors at a
time. Would they be as good as I think?

John


I think the mdf would've saved you a bunch of time and effort. :-)
If you've seen hinges "rip out," they were installed improperly.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/12 8:42 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast
cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for
the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop
use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that
is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the
expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of
1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued
a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes.
Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing
with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by
ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end
up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of
doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John



I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to the
challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in multiples of
50.

http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.


I just used a bunch of those for double refined (heavy!) mdf doors and
they are very strong and sturdy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

G. Ross wrote:


Thanks for the link. I ordered a few to play with. Have never used
Euro hinges before. Do I need a special forstner bit for the one
you
mentioned?
-------------------------------------------------------------
35 mm or 1-3/8".

Freud includes one in their carbide set.

Lew

On 12/11/12 9:58 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to
the challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in
multiples of 50.
http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.

Leon - you don't have any issues with the screws holding well in the MDF
door?


I can't speak for Leon, but I installed dozens of those hinges in mdf
and the key is to use screws designed for mdf. I've used regular square
drive softwood screws from McFeeley's with not a single problem, too.
But these specialty screws just seem to bite a little better.

http://www.spax.us/en/mdf-hardwood-screws.html

There are also screws at McFeely's or Woodcraft that are designed for mdf
with the cutting/drilling tip and wide, toothed threads.

I have has great results with these specialty screws, holding tightly in
very shallow holes.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:


I can't speak for Leon, but I installed dozens of those hinges in mdf
and the key is to use screws designed for mdf. I've used regular
square drive softwood screws from McFeeley's with not a single
problem, too. But these specialty screws just seem to bite a little
better.
http://www.spax.us/en/mdf-hardwood-screws.html

There are also screws at McFeely's or Woodcraft that are designed for
mdf with the cutting/drilling tip and wide, toothed threads.

I have has great results with these specialty screws, holding tightly
in very shallow holes.

Interesting Mike - I will have to try those. I have used coarse thread
sheetrock screws with mixed levels of confidence. I try to stay away from
the use of MDF because of its weight and the "difficulty" in using fasteners
securely with it, but I'm always open to learning new things that will make
it all work. I'm guessing you really want to snug those screws up by hand,
rather than using your screw gun to finish them off (?)...

--

-Mike-

On 12/11/2012 10:22 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I think the mdf would've saved you a bunch of time and effort. :-)
If you've seen hinges "rip out," they were installed improperly.

Absolutely!

"OMG, you can't put screws into MDF, Verne!!"

(It's funny how long it takes for some things to get past preconceived,
knee jerk notions of the past)

Not to mention that we're talking about EURO hinges in the DOORS _only_.

Much of the support/holding action of EURO hinges comes from the cup.

Just about any screw made for, and supplied with, the specific hinges
will serve you well when mounted into high quality MDF doors.

Unless they made their cabinets out of MDF (ouch, hurts my back to think
about), the clips themselves are screwed into wood end panels of the
cabinets, fercrisakes.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/11/12 11:04 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


I can't speak for Leon, but I installed dozens of those hinges in mdf
and the key is to use screws designed for mdf. I've used regular
square drive softwood screws from McFeeley's with not a single
problem, too. But these specialty screws just seem to bite a little
better.
http://www.spax.us/en/mdf-hardwood-screws.html

There are also screws at McFeely's or Woodcraft that are designed for
mdf with the cutting/drilling tip and wide, toothed threads.

I have has great results with these specialty screws, holding tightly
in very shallow holes.

Interesting Mike - I will have to try those. I have used coarse thread
sheetrock screws with mixed levels of confidence. I try to stay away from
the use of MDF because of its weight and the "difficulty" in using fasteners
securely with it, but I'm always open to learning new things that will make
it all work. I'm guessing you really want to snug those screws up by hand,
rather than using your screw gun to finish them off (?)...


Ever since I got into pocket hole joinery, I've been in the habit of
"snugging by hand."
And since I've been using a driver with an adjustable torque clutch,
I've also gotten into the habit of calibrating the clutch with some
cut-off scraps of like material.

Sometimes, it's hard for my brain to "trust" this calibration. :-) But
inevitably, when I go to double check, by hand, the screws I drove with
my calibrated clutch setting, I discover the clutch had done its job and
the screws are nice and snug.

The short answer to your question is, you can use a powered driver with
a torque clutch. :-) I don't know what it is about those Spax threads,
but they make a big difference. Even the yellow/brassy short mdf screws
from HD/Lowes/Ace hold much better than sheetrock screws.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/2012 11:19 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I don't know what it is about those Spax threads,
but they make a big difference.

As you are aware, Spax screws have a superior sheer strength, which is
generally what you need when installing cabinets.

Coupled with an impact driver, in my books they're one of cabinetmaker's
best friends.

I also like the FastCap cabinet-to-cabinet screws, and buy them by the
pound.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/11/12 11:19 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 10:22 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I think the mdf would've saved you a bunch of time and effort. :-)
If you've seen hinges "rip out," they were installed improperly.

Absolutely!

"OMG, you can't put screws into MDF, Verne!!"

(It's funny how long it takes for some things to get past preconceived,
knee jerk notions of the past)

Not to mention that we're talking about EURO hinges in the DOORS _only_.

Much of the support/holding action of EURO hinges comes from the cup.

Just about any screw made for, and supplied with, the specific hinges
will serve you well when mounted into high quality MDF doors.

Unless they made their cabinets out of MDF (ouch, hurts my back to think
about), the clips themselves are screwed into wood end panels of the
cabinets, fercrisakes.


I've put a bunch of them into plywood boxes, too, using the same mdf
screws. There's something about the toothed-thread design that makes
they hold very well in anything *soft.

(* soft is obviously a relative term)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/12 11:26 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 11:19 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

I don't know what it is about those Spax threads,
but they make a big difference.

As you are aware, Spax screws have a superior sheer strength, which is
generally what you need when installing cabinets.

Coupled with an impact driver, in my books they're one of cabinetmaker's
best friends.

I also like the FastCap cabinet-to-cabinet screws, and buy them by the
pound.


I LOOOOOVE FastCap screws and use them for much more than just cabinetry.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/2012 11:29 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
I've put a bunch of them into plywood boxes,

Plywood is "wood" ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/11/12 11:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/11/2012 11:29 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
I've put a bunch of them into plywood boxes,

Plywood is "wood" ...


You know what I mean, foo! :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
...I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. ...

....

I'll go the other route than most of the responses I've seen (altho
haven't read everything in the thread it has been a fair fraction). If
you standardize the sizes and do it as a production run w/, say, a
square rail/stile, you could do conventional doors in a very short time
and have a much nicer product in the end...

Amana and several others makes a mission-style cutter set that I like
since I have 3/4"|1" spindle shaper but you can do it all w/ just the
tablesaw as well...

They square up automagically on assembly if simply make sure the ends
are cut square. I use wide stock wide enough for 3 or 4 at a time then
rip to width and groove. Again, pick a few standard sizes and they can
be turned out en masse...I've made such for shop and other
not-for-prime-time use out of just standard one-by shelving stock and
fir ply or even masonite/hardboard and w/ a coat of paint they're very
presentable...

--

On 12/11/2012 9:58 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to
the challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in
multiples of 50.
http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.

Leon - you don't have any issues with the screws holding well in the MDF
door?


Considering only Euro style hinges...
Actually "not at all". The screws only keep the hinge from slipping out
of the 1-3/8" x 1/2" deep hole in the door. The snug fit of the singe
inside the door mounting hole carries all the weight. The screws
essentially prevent the door from sliding off of the hinge and carry no
weight.

On 12/11/2012 9:20 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/11/2012 8:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast
cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for
the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with
shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but
that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use
the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet
of 1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I
glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door
sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the
whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the
doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the
1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door.
A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John



I would go with the MDF, cheap and fast and the green stuff is water
resistant, almost water proof.

You have a valid concern about the hinges. If you are putting face
frames on your cabinets these Blum face frame Euro hinges are up to the
challenge and are very very reasonably priced especially in multiples
of 50.

http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-compa...-hinges-b038n/

I use the 1/2" overlay, screw in, by the hundreds.


Thanks for the link. I ordered a few to play with. Have never used
Euro hinges before. Do I need a special forstner bit for the one you
mentioned?


35mm but I used a 1-3/8", essentially the same size, for many many years.

35mm = 1.377953", 1-3/8" = 1.375 Basically .003" difference.

On 12/11/2012 10:14 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 12/11/2012 9:20 AM, G. Ross wrote:


Thanks for the link. I ordered a few to play with. Have never used
Euro hinges before. Do I need a special forstner bit for the one you
mentioned?

Go back and check out that link. The specifications say the hinge
pockets are 35mm. If you happen to have a Forstner in that size you're
good to go, otherwise dig out that wallet againg

NO BIG DEAL! The difference between 35mm and 1-3/8" is less than
..003". Most Forstner bit sets have that size, 1-3/8"

wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large
section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets
to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast
cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for
the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with
shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but
that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use
the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of
1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I
glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door
sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the
whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the
doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the
1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door.
A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?


Get the little woman to make curtains for the shelves.

Perhaps shades cut to size from the box store?

On 12/11/2012 9:33 AM, wrote:
Just finished building a new shop. 24X24 One wall will have a large section of shop built cabinets. I'd like to put doors on the cabinets to keep the dust out of my stuff (well at least try). I want fast cheap and dimensionally stable. I could cut up a bunch of 3/4 MDF for the doors but that stuff is heavy and the hinges may rip out with shop use. I could make real rail and stile doors with a ply panel but that is a lot of work for a shop door. Plywood warps unless you use the expensive baltic birch stuff.

Then I had an idea. I'd like your comments. What if I took a sheet of 1/4 luan and laid it on the concrete floor. Using liquid nails I glued a series of 1x4 clear pine in the shape of the desired door sizes. Then I glue another sheet of luan to the top. Compress the whole thing with concrete blocks. After a couple of days, cut out the doors by ripping them such that each door has 1/2 the width of the 1x4. I'd end up with a light, strong and dimensionally stable, door. A 4x8 sheet of doors at a time. Would they be as good as I think?

John


Not quite the same but similar. When they built my yard shed, they
nailed all of the 2X4 to the sheathing panel to form the door
(Traditional barn type door) and door frame. They then brought the hole
thing to the site. and cut the door out after it was part of the building.

I guess what I am saying it seems like a quick efficient way to make a
lot of doors. They would be attractive, and sturdy.

One problem I see is the edges of the plywood where you cut the doors a
part. It may splinter off leaving a less that attractive edge, so you
may wish to consider a way of dressing the edges.

zxc