On 12/11/12 11:04 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


I can't speak for Leon, but I installed dozens of those hinges in mdf
and the key is to use screws designed for mdf. I've used regular
square drive softwood screws from McFeeley's with not a single
problem, too. But these specialty screws just seem to bite a little
better.
http://www.spax.us/en/mdf-hardwood-screws.html

There are also screws at McFeely's or Woodcraft that are designed for
mdf with the cutting/drilling tip and wide, toothed threads.

I have has great results with these specialty screws, holding tightly
in very shallow holes.

Interesting Mike - I will have to try those. I have used coarse thread
sheetrock screws with mixed levels of confidence. I try to stay away from
the use of MDF because of its weight and the "difficulty" in using fasteners
securely with it, but I'm always open to learning new things that will make
it all work. I'm guessing you really want to snug those screws up by hand,
rather than using your screw gun to finish them off (?)...


Ever since I got into pocket hole joinery, I've been in the habit of
"snugging by hand."
And since I've been using a driver with an adjustable torque clutch,
I've also gotten into the habit of calibrating the clutch with some
cut-off scraps of like material.

Sometimes, it's hard for my brain to "trust" this calibration. :-) But
inevitably, when I go to double check, by hand, the screws I drove with
my calibrated clutch setting, I discover the clutch had done its job and
the screws are nice and snug.

The short answer to your question is, you can use a powered driver with
a torque clutch. :-) I don't know what it is about those Spax threads,
but they make a big difference. Even the yellow/brassy short mdf screws
from HD/Lowes/Ace hold much better than sheetrock screws.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply