These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


Very cool Mike...

I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable
splitter now.
Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small
3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but
you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris.

On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


Very cool Mike...

I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable
splitter now.
Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small
3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but
you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris.


Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to
adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side.

I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular
sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't
even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent.

I also have an idea for swappable splitters, using pins/screws that go
in from the edge of the insert, parallel to the top.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


Very cool Mike...

I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar
removable
splitter now.
Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use
small
3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time
but
you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris.


Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to
adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side.

I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.




I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular
sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't
even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent.

Actually I made several of these inserts for my commonly used dado width
combinations, 4 IIRC. I bet I did not spend 5 minutes total adjusting all
of them. That really is not a factor.

On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.





--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes
under the TS top in the blck.

On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes
under the TS top in the blck.


Now I need a picture.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:56:03 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes
under the TS top in the blck.


Now I need a picture.
The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.

On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.

Wrong thread? The OP provided:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#

It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On 3/20/10 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:56:03 -0500,
wrote:

On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes
under the TS top in the blck.


Now I need a picture.
The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.

Oh Lord, this made my day!
It's taking me forever just to type this from laughing so hard!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 3/20/10 9:25 PM, Morris Dovey wrote:
On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.

Wrong thread? The OP provided:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#

It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-)


Look again, Mo. :-)

(I *almost* replaced them all, just to f#@k with you.)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:25:32 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote:

On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.

Wrong thread? The OP provided:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#

It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-)
OOOPS!!!!

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:56:03 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes
under the TS top in the blck.


Now I need a picture.
The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.


Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the
subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention
- - - - - - - - - .

Somebody wrote:

I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back
side of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely
insures that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the
insert.


A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out
the back
of the insert about 3/8", works for me.


Lew

wrote in message
...
The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

Yeah, they probably will if they run down to their insurance company and
tell them about it.

-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org:

On 3/20/10 9:25 PM, Morris Dovey wrote:

Wrong thread? The OP provided:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#

It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-)


Look again, Mo. :-)

(I *almost* replaced them all, just to f#@k with you.)



Hey, those are my past attempts at zero clearance inserts there!

I borrowed a jigsaw and traced, cut, and sanded my way to two zero
clearance inserts that fit nicely. I'll probably add the splitter to one
when I go to use it.

They're not hard to make, especially with a Bosch jigsaw. I only used
the jigsaw twice, and miss it.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the
insert.


Yes, I used a finish screw for that.


I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that.
I
added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it
goes
under the TS top in the blck.


Now I need a picture.


I'll shoot you a picture and give you a link.

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:05:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#




Cool way to wedge in a splitter!

I used my original Delta insert as a template for making a working insert
template. When I get bored I zip out a few on the router table, usually from
my scrap pile of 1/2" thick oak. Leveling screws are really short set screws.

How well does the surface of the plywood hold up?

-BR

Here are links to my inserts.

Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep
the insert from lifting in the back.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/

Top view showing back retainer

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Somebody wrote:

I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side
of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures
that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert.


A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out the
back
of the insert about 3/8", works for me.


See my "Ping Mike" picture links.

On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote:

These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


How well does the surface of the plywood hold up?

-BR


Fine, so far.
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw....
or blade at least, unless I'm missing something.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.


Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the
subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention

For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have
thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare.

--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler

On 3/21/10 12:10 PM, Leon wrote:
Here are links to my inserts.

Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep
the insert from lifting in the back.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/

Top view showing back retainer

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/



Thank you, Sir. Makes perfect sense.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:27:33 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.


Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the
subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention

For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have
thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare.
Yea, what can I say? Nothing in my defence, that's fer darn sure, so
I'll just shut up!!

On 3/21/10 3:09 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:27:33 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following:

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote:

The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is
getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems.

A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a
freestanding unit.


Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the
subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention

For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have
thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare.
Yea, what can I say? Nothing in my defence, that's fer darn sure, so
I'll just shut up!!

I'll let you off the hook far sooner than the guy who replied to you to
debate your point.

wow.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:10:31 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Somebody wrote:

I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back
side of
the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely
insures that
the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the
insert.


A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out
the back
of the insert about 3/8", works for me.


Lew


I have a fender washer on the bottom back end of mine.

On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:19:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote:

These are very easy to make.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert#


How well does the surface of the plywood hold up?

-BR


Fine, so far.
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw....
or blade at least, unless I'm missing something.




I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the
hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and
was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce
this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get
beat up more).

I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a
year....

-BR

Bruce wrote in
:


I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from
the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit
splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies
would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help
(springier) or hurt (get beat up more).

I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in
about a year....

-BR


I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe
about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the
teeth a tiny bit of clearance.

Think that would help in this case?

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes:
Bruce wrote in
:


I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from
the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit
splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies
would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help
(springier) or hurt (get beat up more).

I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in
about a year....

-BR


I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe
about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the
teeth a tiny bit of clearance.

Think that would help in this case?

Puckdropper

I would have thought that between thousands of rotations per minute plus
the slight wobble & vibrations in any setup that there soon would be
enough clearance.

That being said, on my zero clearance insert I do seem to hear a bit of
a woosh or whistle or some such sound but I always attributed it to air
being forced through a tighter space than with the original wide
clearance insert.

On 3/25/10 7:27 PM, Bruce wrote:
I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the
hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and
was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce
this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get
beat up more).

I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a
year....

-BR



Oh, I see. I haven't noticed any of that.
But they're so easy to make, I guess I'll just whip another one out, if
it happens. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:08:04 -0600, blueman wrote
(in article ):

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes:


I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe
about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the
teeth a tiny bit of clearance.

Think that would help in this case?

Puckdropper

I would have thought that between thousands of rotations per minute plus
the slight wobble & vibrations in any setup that there soon would be
enough clearance.

That being said, on my zero clearance insert I do seem to hear a bit of
a woosh or whistle or some such sound but I always attributed it to air
being forced through a tighter space than with the original wide
clearance insert.



Yup, mine tends to get a tad wider on it's own, probably from flexing a bit
as I cut various things that tend to side-load the blade a bit (think really
thin crosscuts to sneak up on a fit).


I'm going to use my template and knock out a few with some Ruskie BB I have.
Being perfectly flat and smooth in these small sizes (plus a use for all that
scrap!), I think it may convince me to switch.

-BR