Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

Thanks.

- Owen -

On Nov 10, 1:40?pm, "Owen Lawrence" wrote:
Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

Thanks.

- Owen -

The only place you ned 0 tolerance is the top of the insert. So,
create a channel (with a router) on what will be the bottom of the
insert, deep enough to clear the saw blade when fully lowered and wide
enough for wiggle room to fit the blade width. Screw the insert in,
start the saw and very slowly raise it and cut through the insert.

FoggyTown

On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 08:40:37 -0500, "Owen Lawrence"
wrote:

Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

There are a lot of ways you can do it, probably the easiest is placing
the new insert in position over the old one, holding it down with
clamps and a caul, then raising the bit into it so that you cut out
enough material so it can be installed and cut the rest of the way.

Okay, I used my 7-1/4" blade. The only problem is that it's a thin kerf
blade, and for my immediate needs that turned out not to be any problem at
all. I just made all my cuts using that exact blade.

Now that I've made a slot, I know where to chase it with my router to widen
the underside a bit. This particular insert is not destined to be a zero
clearance insert anyway, now that I think about it. It's just a replacement
for the metal one that shattered, which had a gap to accommodate small
angles.

I think when I made my first one I must have clamped it to the surface of
the table saw, over the original insert. It was okay to do that because it
was just a perpendicular cut.

Thanks for the suggestions.

- Owen -

"Charley" wrote in message
...
The smaller diameter blade is the answer. If you don't have a regular
blade
consider using one blade from a stacked dado blade package. A 6 or 7 1/4
inch blade should give you the clearance you need to fit your zero
clearance
insert. Then you can set the blade angle and just raise it up through the
insert to make that angled zero clearance cut. Your 10 inch blade may rub
a
bit the first time that you use it, so be careful on the first start to be
sure it doesn't jam.

Charley

"Owen Lawrence" wrote in message
...
Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with
the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out
a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I
forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low
enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a
smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

Thanks.

- Owen -

"Owen Lawrence" wrote


This particular insert is not destined to be a zero
clearance insert anyway, now that I think about it. It's just a
replacement
for the metal one that shattered, which had a gap to accommodate small
angles.

For angled cuts that's the way it should to be ... much safer. Too easy to
forget and bend a blade, or have the blade push upon the insert on start up
and throw is back at you should you raise the blade a bit too high and don't
have a hold down pin installed.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/4/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

This particular insert is not destined to be a zero
clearance insert anyway, now that I think about it. It's just a
replacement
for the metal one that shattered, which had a gap to accommodate small
angles.

For angled cuts that's the way it should to be ... much safer. Too easy to
forget and bend a blade, or have the blade push upon the insert on start
up
and throw is back at you should you raise the blade a bit too high and
don't
have a hold down pin installed.

I do have a hold down hook at the back.

- Owen -

On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 08:40:37 -0500, "Owen Lawrence" wrote:

Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

Thanks.

- Owen -

I just went through this, Owen...
Since I didn't own a 9" blade, I used my old crapsman wobble dado blade...
I set it at about 5/16" and raised the blade until I was about 1/2 way through,
then swapped blades to my normal 10" one that I use most often and cut the rest
of the way through...
Since you're talking an angle, a wider beginning cut might be better..
The 2 inserts that I bought the first time had starter cuts on the bottoms..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

What obvious thing am I missing?

You put the fence on the edge of the current plate.
Lower the new insert onto the running blade...with the old one still
in place.
Just a little at the time.

That's how I did this one:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oclearance.jpg

Brian Henderson wrote:
On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 08:40:37 -0500, "Owen Lawrence"
wrote:

Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

There are a lot of ways you can do it, probably the easiest is placing
the new insert in position over the old one, holding it down with
clamps and a caul, then raising the bit into it so that you cut out
enough material so it can be installed and cut the rest of the way.

This won't work for an angle cut. When the partially sawn insert is
dropped down into the table the location will be different. It would
work for a vertical cut.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Those who hammer their guns into
plowshares will plow for those who don't.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
ps.com...


What obvious thing am I missing?

You put the fence on the edge of the current plate.
Lower the new insert onto the running blade...with the old one still
in place.
Just a little at the time.

That's how I did this one:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oclearance.jpg

That looks good. Now try to make an angled one, and when you get out of the
hospital let me know how it turned out.

- Owen -

On Nov 10, 10:27 pm, "Owen Lawrence" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

ps.com...



What obvious thing am I missing?

You put the fence on the edge of the current plate.
Lower the new insert onto the running blade...with the old one still
in place.
Just a little at the time.

That's how I did this one:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oclearance.jpg

That looks good. Now try to make an angled one, and when you get out of the
hospital let me know how it turned out.

- Owen -

You just have to think this through. If you angle your blade, using
your standard insert, you then cut a section of 1/2" MDF and clamp it
into place. (Don't finish the cut) THAT becomes your zero clearance
for the few cuts you need to make. (If you don't 'get it', don't 'do'
it.

What obvious thing am I missing?

This Quick and dirty method comes to mind:

Set the blade at 90, in the lowest position. Set the back if the insert into
the recess and gently pivot the front down onto the spinning blade. It's a
little dicey, but not that tough; just stay out of the throw zone. Secure
your insert in place, then crank your bevel over with the saw running, then
raise you blade.

Although, if I where doing a batch of inserts, I would probably take the
time to set up the router to plunge a stopped dado in the bottom if the
blanks.

While you're at it, make a half dozen blanks. I ZCI's for: 90, bevels at 45
and 7, 1/2" dado 3.4" dado, 1/4"double-blade tennon cutting and 3/8" double
blade tennon cutting.

Bad things can happen when an offcut is too narrow to be supported by an
insert, The offcut can jam by the blade and/or get kicked back. IME it takes
about twice as long to make 6 ZCI blanks as it does one, so it makes sense
to have them to the vast majority of your cutting scenarios.

Steve



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

What obvious thing am I missing?

You put the fence on the edge of the current plate.
Lower the new insert onto the running blade...with the old one still
in place.
Just a little at the time.

That's how I did this one:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...oclearance.jpg

That looks good. Now try to make an angled one, and when you get out of
the
hospital let me know how it turned out.

- Owen -

You just have to think this through. If you angle your blade, using
your standard insert, you then cut a section of 1/2" MDF and clamp it
into place. (Don't finish the cut) THAT becomes your zero clearance
for the few cuts you need to make. (If you don't 'get it', don't 'do'
it.

Sorry, I don't get it. Do you mean clamp it into place recessed into the
table in its final destination, or on top of another insert? If I've got a
10" blade then I can't clamp it into the recess because I can't lower the
blade far enough. If I clamp it on top of another insert then the slot will
end up in the wrong position because of the angled blade. Remember, my
"standard insert" went kablooey so I have one less option, too.

- Owen -

On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 13:05:20 -0500, "Owen Lawrence" wrote:

Owen... I did the same thing once and didn't bother with the router, though if
you're skilled with one it might be easier for you..
I just used the wife's dremel and a round burr to widen the bottom 2/3 of the
slot cut by the circular saw blade, then put it back on the TS and cut the rest
of the way through..

Okay, I used my 7-1/4" blade. The only problem is that it's a thin kerf
blade, and for my immediate needs that turned out not to be any problem at
all. I just made all my cuts using that exact blade.

Now that I've made a slot, I know where to chase it with my router to widen
the underside a bit. This particular insert is not destined to be a zero
clearance insert anyway, now that I think about it. It's just a replacement
for the metal one that shattered, which had a gap to accommodate small
angles.

I think when I made my first one I must have clamped it to the surface of
the table saw, over the original insert. It was okay to do that because it
was just a perpendicular cut.

Thanks for the suggestions.

- Owen -

"Charley" wrote in message
.. .
The smaller diameter blade is the answer. If you don't have a regular
blade
consider using one blade from a stacked dado blade package. A 6 or 7 1/4
inch blade should give you the clearance you need to fit your zero
clearance
insert. Then you can set the blade angle and just raise it up through the
insert to make that angled zero clearance cut. Your 10 inch blade may rub
a
bit the first time that you use it, so be careful on the first start to be
sure it doesn't jam.

Charley

"Owen Lawrence" wrote in message
...
Years ago I made a zero clearance insert and it's been useful ever
since. Today I find I need one for the blade at a slight angle and the
other one won't work. I was going to use the metal one that came with
the
saw, but the cast light metal disintegrated when I put it in! I cut out
a
new blank, shimmed it up and sanded it until it fit perfectly. But I
forget
how I cut the slot in the other one. I can't crank my 10" blade low
enough
to clear the 1/2" plywood of the insert. I'm pretty sure I didn't own a
smaller blade the last time I did this, so how did I do it? I own a
smaller
blade now (for my skilsaw), but I'll have to check if the arbor will fit.

What obvious thing am I missing?

Thanks.

- Owen -







mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 12:16:10 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:


"Owen Lawrence" wrote


This particular insert is not destined to be a zero
clearance insert anyway, now that I think about it. It's just a
replacement
for the metal one that shattered, which had a gap to accommodate small
angles.

For angled cuts that's the way it should to be ... much safer. Too easy to
forget and bend a blade, or have the blade push upon the insert on start up
and throw is back at you should you raise the blade a bit too high and don't
have a hold down pin installed.

Damn.. I just recovered from a senior moment, Swing.. thanks..

I made 2 inserts, a zero clearance and a dodo.. I use the dado insert of
angles... DUHHH


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 19:09:53 -0500, Gerald Ross
wrote:

This won't work for an angle cut. When the partially sawn insert is
dropped down into the table the location will be different. It would
work for a vertical cut.

No, it won't work for an angled cut but then again, raising a blade
into an insert at an angle isn't the best idea to begin with. If I
had to make an insert for angled cuts, I'd start out with the normal
vertical cut, then pare out the excess with a chisel.