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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
These are very easy to make.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side. I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent. I also have an idea for swappable splitters, using pins/screws that go in from the edge of the insert, parallel to the top. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote: wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side. I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent. Actually I made several of these inserts for my commonly used dado width combinations, 4 IIRC. I bet I did not spend 5 minutes total adjusting all of them. That really is not a factor. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck. Now I need a picture. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:56:03 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote: On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote: wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck. Now I need a picture. The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote:
The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Wrong thread? The OP provided: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-) -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 9:25 PM, Morris Dovey wrote:
On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote: The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Wrong thread? The OP provided: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-) Look again, Mo. :-) (I *almost* replaced them all, just to f#@k with you.) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:25:32 -0500, Morris Dovey
wrote: On 3/20/2010 9:10 PM, wrote: The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Wrong thread? The OP provided: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-) OOOPS!!!! |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
Somebody wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out the back of the insert about 3/8", works for me. Lew |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
wrote in message ... The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. Yeah, they probably will if they run down to their insurance company and tell them about it. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org: On 3/20/10 9:25 PM, Morris Dovey wrote: Wrong thread? The OP provided: http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# It doesn't /look/ like a fireplace... ;-) Look again, Mo. :-) (I *almost* replaced them all, just to f#@k with you.) Hey, those are my past attempts at zero clearance inserts there! I borrowed a jigsaw and traced, cut, and sanded my way to two zero clearance inserts that fit nicely. I'll probably add the splitter to one when I go to use it. They're not hard to make, especially with a Bosch jigsaw. I only used the jigsaw twice, and miss it. Puckdropper -- Never teach your apprentice everything you know. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 5:29 PM, Leon wrote: wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck. Now I need a picture. I'll shoot you a picture and give you a link. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:05:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ): These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Cool way to wedge in a splitter! I used my original Delta insert as a template for making a working insert template. When I get bored I zip out a few on the router table, usually from my scrap pile of 1/2" thick oak. Leveling screws are really short set screws. How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR |
Ping Mike
Here are links to my inserts.
Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep the insert from lifting in the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/ Top view showing back retainer http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/ |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... Somebody wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out the back of the insert about 3/8", works for me. See my "Ping Mike" picture links. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote:
These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR Fine, so far. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw.... or blade at least, unless I'm missing something. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous
scrawled the following: On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote: The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare. ;) -- If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do. -- Samuel Butler |
Ping Mike
On 3/21/10 12:10 PM, Leon wrote:
Here are links to my inserts. Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep the insert from lifting in the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/ Top view showing back retainer http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/ Thank you, Sir. Makes perfect sense. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:27:33 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous scrawled the following: On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote: The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare. ;) Yea, what can I say? Nothing in my defence, that's fer darn sure, so I'll just shut up!! |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/21/10 3:09 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 10:27:33 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 23:34:48 -0400, the infamous scrawled the following: On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 22:10:38 -0400, wrote: The only problem with a home / shop made fireplace of ANY type is getting UL approval - without which you WILL have insurance problems. A Zero Clearance unit will be significantly more difficult than a freestanding unit. Gee - I feel stupid now. I didn't see any of the previous posts on the subject and just ASS umed. The "blade" should have caught my attention For that assumption to have been even slightly possible, you must have thought you were replying on rec.crafts.metalworking, clare. ;) Yea, what can I say? Nothing in my defence, that's fer darn sure, so I'll just shut up!! I'll let you off the hook far sooner than the guy who replied to you to debate your point. wow. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:10:31 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote: Somebody wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. A piece of oak/maple 3/8" wide X 3/8" high, 2-3" long, projecting out the back of the insert about 3/8", works for me. Lew I have a fender washer on the bottom back end of mine. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:19:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ): On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote: These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR Fine, so far. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw.... or blade at least, unless I'm missing something. I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
Bruce wrote in
: I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the teeth a tiny bit of clearance. Think that would help in this case? Puckdropper -- Never teach your apprentice everything you know. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes:
Bruce wrote in : I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the teeth a tiny bit of clearance. Think that would help in this case? Puckdropper I would have thought that between thousands of rotations per minute plus the slight wobble & vibrations in any setup that there soon would be enough clearance. That being said, on my zero clearance insert I do seem to hear a bit of a woosh or whistle or some such sound but I always attributed it to air being forced through a tighter space than with the original wide clearance insert. |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/25/10 7:27 PM, Bruce wrote:
I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR Oh, I see. I haven't noticed any of that. But they're so easy to make, I guess I'll just whip another one out, if it happens. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:08:04 -0600, blueman wrote
(in article ): Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes: I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the teeth a tiny bit of clearance. Think that would help in this case? Puckdropper I would have thought that between thousands of rotations per minute plus the slight wobble & vibrations in any setup that there soon would be enough clearance. That being said, on my zero clearance insert I do seem to hear a bit of a woosh or whistle or some such sound but I always attributed it to air being forced through a tighter space than with the original wide clearance insert. Yup, mine tends to get a tad wider on it's own, probably from flexing a bit as I cut various things that tend to side-load the blade a bit (think really thin crosscuts to sneak up on a fit). I'm going to use my template and knock out a few with some Ruskie BB I have. Being perfectly flat and smooth in these small sizes (plus a use for all that scrap!), I think it may convince me to switch. -BR |
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