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#1
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
These are very easy to make.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side. I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent. I also have an idea for swappable splitters, using pins/screws that go in from the edge of the insert, parallel to the top. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 1:28 PM, Leon wrote: wrote in message ... These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Very cool Mike... I may have to make on with the splitter although I use a similar removable splitter now. Might I suggest a slightly easier way to do the leveling screws? Use small 3/8" screws on the bottom side. A touch longer to adjust the first time but you have no holes on top to catch or fill with debris. Yes, I do see it taking longer to pop it in and out several times to adjust the first time, but I like the idea of a clean top side. I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. I'm going to try a DIY "Tru-Cut Insert System" that has the rectangular sub-inserts. The extra time needed to adjust the master insert wouldn't even be an issue, since it would be semi-permanent. Actually I made several of these inserts for my commonly used dado width combinations, 4 IIRC. I bet I did not spend 5 minutes total adjusting all of them. That really is not a factor. |
#5
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote:
I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 3/20/10 3:14 PM, Leon wrote: I forgot to add, I added a "finger" if you will to the bottom back side of the insert that goes up under the table top. This absolutely insures that the back side of the blade does not lift up the back aide of the insert. Yes, I used a finish screw for that. I saw a screw in the end of the insert and some of my inserts have that. I added a finger under the insert that extends beyond the end so that it goes under the TS top in the blck. |
#7
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 12:05:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ): These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# Cool way to wedge in a splitter! I used my original Delta insert as a template for making a working insert template. When I get bored I zip out a few on the router table, usually from my scrap pile of 1/2" thick oak. Leveling screws are really short set screws. How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR |
#8
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote:
These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR Fine, so far. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw.... or blade at least, unless I'm missing something. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 11:19:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ): On 3/21/10 8:18 AM, Bruce wrote: These are very easy to make. http://picasaweb.google.com/mikeadid...earanceInsert# How well does the surface of the plywood hold up? -BR Fine, so far. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't last as long as the saw.... or blade at least, unless I'm missing something. I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
Bruce wrote in
: I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the teeth a tiny bit of clearance. Think that would help in this case? Puckdropper -- Never teach your apprentice everything you know. |
#11
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes:
Bruce wrote in : I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR I read somewhere a suggestion to open up the insert kerf slightly. Maybe about two swipes with a file on either side, just enough to give the teeth a tiny bit of clearance. Think that would help in this case? Puckdropper I would have thought that between thousands of rotations per minute plus the slight wobble & vibrations in any setup that there soon would be enough clearance. That being said, on my zero clearance insert I do seem to hear a bit of a woosh or whistle or some such sound but I always attributed it to air being forced through a tighter space than with the original wide clearance insert. |
#12
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Shop Made Zero Clearance Insert
On 3/25/10 7:27 PM, Bruce wrote:
I get chips, etc, near where the teeth re-enter. Basically it's from the hammering that occurs at this spot. I know that oak is a bit splintery and was wondering if that is my problem. The multiple plies would seem to reduce this effect, but the softer wood could also help (springier) or hurt (get beat up more). I suppose the best thing is to just try and see! I should know in about a year.... -BR Oh, I see. I haven't noticed any of that. But they're so easy to make, I guess I'll just whip another one out, if it happens. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#13
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Ping Mike
Here are links to my inserts.
Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep the insert from lifting in the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/ Top view showing back retainer http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/ |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Ping Mike
On 3/21/10 12:10 PM, Leon wrote:
Here are links to my inserts. Bottom view showing adjustable screws on bottom side and retainer to keep the insert from lifting in the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...28852/sizes/l/ Top view showing back retainer http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...59787/sizes/l/ Thank you, Sir. Makes perfect sense. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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