Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

On Nov 21, 4:53*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it
perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it)

shelly

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.



IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have
the shutter as the router changes direction.

I have an example on a.b.p.w.

On Nov 21, 5:10*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...

Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. *And you don't have
the shutter as the router changes direction.

I have an example on a.b.p.w.

I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the
shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it
stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a
tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the
climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper
by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what
I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer,
but I dont own any gauges. :^|

On Nov 21, 5:05*pm, wrote:
On Nov 21, 4:53*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:

Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it
perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it)

shelly

I have practiced about a dozen times now and always get the same
result. I even tried waxing the lip of the wedge and it doesn't
help.
I appreciate your input.

GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!



--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Nov 21, 6:13*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:



GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris!



--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

I'll radius the wedge with at the spindle sander.

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote:


I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the
shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it
stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a
tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the
climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper
by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what
I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer,
but I dont own any gauges. :^|



To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high
and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not be
working against you and there should be less shutter.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...




To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up
high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not
be working against you and there should be less shutter.


Something you might also try. If the router is on an auxilary base, bevel
the leading edge that meets the wedge to the same angle so that the base
does not have as abrupt of an edge to catch.

On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris,

HUGE improvement!! Thanks. The router climbs with greater ease now
and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base
ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.

Check out the result hereunder reply)

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

I might play with different radiuses

Thanks again!

On Nov 21, 6:27*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...
On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote:

I appreciate your candor Leon. *It is difficult to control/prevent the
shutter. *As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it
stops and then climbs. *This is mirrored in the flute. *You can see a
tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the
climb up. * I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper
by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. *Not sure what
I will do yet. * The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer,
but I dont own any gauges. *:^|

To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high
and let it ease down into the line as you push it. *Gravity will not be
working against you and there should be less shutter.

Heh. Nice idea! I will try this.

On Nov 21, 6:27*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...
On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote:

I appreciate your candor Leon. *It is difficult to control/prevent the
shutter. *As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it
stops and then climbs. *This is mirrored in the flute. *You can see a
tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the
climb up. * I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper
by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. *Not sure what
I will do yet. * The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer,
but I dont own any gauges. *:^|

To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high
and let it ease down into the line as you push it. *Gravity will not be
working against you and there should be less shutter.

Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's
idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!!

GarageWoodworks wrote:

Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's
idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!!

Another trick you might try is to lay a strip of thin packaging tape
across the transition between wedge and stock (the radiusing is only
needed right at the transition point).

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Hmm, I don't recall having these problems but it has been a while
since I used this detail. I just did my own fireplace and would have
liked to do it but was in a bit of a hurry with other pending projects
so I just did standarad stops.

I do recall that I usually used a very large add-on base on the router
to add more heft to the router so maybe the inertia overcame the stall
at lift. I think beveling the front edge of the base and using a
radiused ramp will both be added to my repitoire.

Really nice work. Such a small little difference but it will please
your eye forever; just like my round ended flutes on my firplace bug
me every day... :-(


On Nov 21, 3:53*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:





GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris,

HUGE improvement!! *Thanks. *The router climbs with greater ease now
and the end result is better. *It is a much natural climb and the base
ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.

Check out the result hereunder reply)

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

I might play with different radiuses

Thanks again!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.


As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points
due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions
smoother.

On Nov 21, 7:30*pm, "CW" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...

Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points
due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions
smoother.

Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one
side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round
side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my
fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side.
Much easier this way. Good tip.

On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:13:50 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following:

On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!

For a quick radius, round it on your 1" belt sander with the backstop
(fence?) removed. Then sharpen the tip of the wedge down to a micron,
Brian. Voila! No transition marks.

P.S: If the wedge is thick/tall enough, there is no need for a radius
as the bit will be clear of the work before it gets to the top.

--
We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond
with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774

On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:53:48 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following:

On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris,

HUGE improvement!! Thanks. The router climbs with greater ease now
and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base
ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.

Check out the result hereunder reply)

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

I might play with different radiuses

Thanks again!

Oh, I see what you ended up with. You hollow-ground the edge to
quicken the transition a bit. I thought you might be hanging up on
the opposite edge, the 45 degree away from the point, hence my
original post. Mea culpa.

--
We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond
with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774

"GarageWoodworks" wrote:

That's a neat idea. Have you made this jig?

Only in my mind; however, many years spent doing machine tool design
work, probably gives me an edge.G

Lew

Leon wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.



IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper.


Nah, you're wrong; taper looks better. IMO of course. :-)

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!


How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to
make the transition smoother whether going up or down.

On Nov 21, 10:58*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...



On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris!

How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to
make the transition smoother whether going up or down.

Not a bad idea. I think this is what Leon suggested above. In the
process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed
wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. Coming down the
wedge seems to be the best approach.

Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with
the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute
(Uggghhhh)
I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp).
Fortunately, I talked him out of it.

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 10:58 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...



On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!

How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself
to
make the transition smoother whether going up or down.

Not a bad idea. I think this is what Leon suggested above. In the
process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed
wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. Coming down the
wedge seems to be the best approach.

Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with
the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute
(Uggghhhh)
I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp).
Fortunately, I talked him out of it.

Ask him if he would like some nice decorative burn marks. LOL.

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...

Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with
the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute
(Uggghhhh)
I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp).
Fortunately, I talked him out of it.

No kidding. Some times you just have to put your foot down, for you sake.
LOL

Have you tried it the other way ? Start from the taper and work into the
flute .

Jim
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...

Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have
the shutter as the router changes direction.

I have an example on a.b.p.w.

I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the
shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it
stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a
tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the
climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper
by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what
I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer,
but I dont own any gauges. :^|

GarageWoodworks wrote:
Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with
the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute
(Uggghhhh)
I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp).
Fortunately, I talked him out of it.


If you need a good reason to help talk him out of tapers, altogether....

The idea behind fluted trim is to architecturally imitate Romam columns,
which are not tapered.
http://www.traveladventures.org/continents/europe/images/acropolis03.jpg



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Bothe ends is how I've always done it.

.... The customer is always right (and a pain inthe ass)


On Nov 21, 8:28*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Nov 21, 10:58*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:





"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

....

On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius,
but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over.
Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when
it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute
it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified
in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris!

How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to
make the transition smoother whether going up or down.

Not a bad idea. *I think this is what Leon suggested above. *In the
process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed
wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. *Coming down the
wedge seems to be the best approach.

Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with
the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute
(Uggghhhh)
I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp).
Fortunately, I talked him out of it.- Hide quoted text -

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