Hmm, I don't recall having these problems but it has been a while
since I used this detail. I just did my own fireplace and would have
liked to do it but was in a bit of a hurry with other pending projects
so I just did standarad stops.

I do recall that I usually used a very large add-on base on the router
to add more heft to the router so maybe the inertia overcame the stall
at lift. I think beveling the front edge of the base and using a
radiused ramp will both be added to my repitoire.

Really nice work. Such a small little difference but it will please
your eye forever; just like my round ended flutes on my firplace bug
me every day... :-(


On Nov 21, 3:53*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:





GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by
SonomaProducts)

Here is the result:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the
flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be
fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the
flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not)
help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.

If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the
transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris,

HUGE improvement!! *Thanks. *The router climbs with greater ease now
and the end result is better. *It is a much natural climb and the base
ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.

Check out the result hereunder reply)

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php

I might play with different radiuses

Thanks again!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -