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Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper
using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. |
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On Nov 21, 4:53*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it) shelly |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have the shutter as the router changes direction. I have an example on a.b.p.w. |
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On Nov 21, 5:10*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. *And you don't have the shutter as the router changes direction. I have an example on a.b.p.w. I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^| |
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On Nov 21, 5:05*pm, wrote:
On Nov 21, 4:53*pm, GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it) shelly I have practiced about a dozen times now and always get the same result. I even tried waxing the lip of the wedge and it doesn't help. I appreciate your input. |
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
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On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris! -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
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On Nov 21, 6:13*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote: On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris! -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ I'll radius the wedge with at the spindle sander. |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote: I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^| To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter. |
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"Leon" wrote in message ... "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter. Something you might also try. If the router is on an auxilary base, bevel the leading edge that meets the wedge to the same angle so that the base does not have as abrupt of an edge to catch. |
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On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ Morris, HUGE improvement!! Thanks. The router climbs with greater ease now and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge. Check out the result he(under reply) http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php I might play with different radiuses Thanks again! |
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On Nov 21, 6:27*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote: I appreciate your candor Leon. *It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. *As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. *This is mirrored in the flute. *You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. * I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. *Not sure what I will do yet. * The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. *:^| To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. *Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter. Heh. Nice idea! I will try this. |
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On Nov 21, 6:27*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote: I appreciate your candor Leon. *It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. *As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. *This is mirrored in the flute. *You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. * I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. *Not sure what I will do yet. * The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. *:^| To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. *Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter. Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!! |
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!! Another trick you might try is to lay a strip of thin packaging tape across the transition between wedge and stock (the radiusing is only needed right at the transition point). -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ |
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Hmm, I don't recall having these problems but it has been a while
since I used this detail. I just did my own fireplace and would have liked to do it but was in a bit of a hurry with other pending projects so I just did standarad stops. I do recall that I usually used a very large add-on base on the router to add more heft to the router so maybe the inertia overcame the stall at lift. I think beveling the front edge of the base and using a radiused ramp will both be added to my repitoire. Really nice work. Such a small little difference but it will please your eye forever; just like my round ended flutes on my firplace bug me every day... :-( On Nov 21, 3:53*pm, GarageWoodworks wrote: On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ Morris, HUGE improvement!! *Thanks. *The router climbs with greater ease now and the end result is better. *It is a much natural climb and the base ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge. Check out the result he(under reply) http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php I might play with different radiuses Thanks again!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions smoother. |
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On Nov 21, 7:30*pm, "CW" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions smoother. Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side. Much easier this way. Good tip. |
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On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:13:50 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following: On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris! For a quick radius, round it on your 1" belt sander with the backstop (fence?) removed. Then sharpen the tip of the wedge down to a micron, Brian. Voila! No transition marks. P.S: If the wedge is thick/tall enough, there is no need for a radius as the bit will be clear of the work before it gets to the top. -- We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774 |
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On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:53:48 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
scrawled the following: On Nov 21, 6:03*pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, *I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. *(Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. *You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). *This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/ Morris, HUGE improvement!! Thanks. The router climbs with greater ease now and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge. Check out the result he(under reply) http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php I might play with different radiuses Thanks again! Oh, I see what you ended up with. You hollow-ground the edge to quicken the transition a bit. I thought you might be hanging up on the opposite edge, the 45 degree away from the point, hence my original post. Mea culpa. -- We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774 |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote: That's a neat idea. Have you made this jig? Only in my mind; however, many years spent doing machine tool design work, probably gives me an edge.G Lew |
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Leon wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. Nah, you're wrong; taper looks better. IMO of course. :-) -- "Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day." (From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago) To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris! How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to make the transition smoother whether going up or down. |
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On Nov 21, 10:58*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris! How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to make the transition smoother whether going up or down. Not a bad idea. I think this is what Leon suggested above. In the process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. Coming down the wedge seems to be the best approach. Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it. |
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
... On Nov 21, 10:58 pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris! How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to make the transition smoother whether going up or down. Not a bad idea. I think this is what Leon suggested above. In the process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. Coming down the wedge seems to be the best approach. Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it. Ask him if he would like some nice decorative burn marks. LOL. |
Flutes continued
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it. No kidding. Some times you just have to put your foot down, for you sake. LOL |
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Have you tried it the other way ? Start from the taper and work into the
flute . Jim "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... On Nov 21, 5:10 pm, "Leon" wrote: "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message ... Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have the shutter as the router changes direction. I have an example on a.b.p.w. I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^| |
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it. If you need a good reason to help talk him out of tapers, altogether.... The idea behind fluted trim is to architecturally imitate Romam columns, which are not tapered. http://www.traveladventures.org/continents/europe/images/acropolis03.jpg -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
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Bothe ends is how I've always done it.
.... The customer is always right (and a pain inthe ass) On Nov 21, 8:28*pm, GarageWoodworks wrote: On Nov 21, 10:58*pm, "Bob La Londe" wrote: "GarageWoodworks" wrote in message .... On Nov 21, 6:03 pm, Morris Dovey wrote: GarageWoodworks wrote: Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts) Here is the result: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone. I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition. If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements. Hmmm. *I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. * I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. *At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. *It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. *I need to think about this one. *Thanks Morris! How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to make the transition smoother whether going up or down. Not a bad idea. *I think this is what Leon suggested above. *In the process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. *Coming down the wedge seems to be the best approach. Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
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