I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice
at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes
without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the
plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far
from the miter slot, etc.)
I am looking to buy another router lift and router and want to
make sure I make the right purchase this time. I would consider a
router/lift combo if the some of the features are only available from
a lift using a certain router...
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

TIA

wrote in message
...
I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice
at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes
without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the
plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far
from the miter slot, etc.)

My Benchdog has been perfect. For bit changes, I use my drill to run it
up/down quickly and use the hand wrench to make adjustments as fine as you
could ever want.

wrote in message
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

How important is the router lift? The Triton TRC001 router offers above the
table bit changes all by itself and has a reputation for being a solid
router. I don't own one yet, but am considering the purchase of one even
though I already have a Makita plunge router. Ping Leon with any questions
you have for his Triton router.

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...itonrouter.htm

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

My Benchdog has been perfect. For bit changes, I use my drill to run it
up/down quickly and use the hand wrench to make adjustments as fine as you
could ever want.

Been lusting for the BenchDog for some time. Is yours the cast iron version?


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

How important is the router lift? The Triton TRC001 router offers above
the
table bit changes all by itself and has a reputation for being a solid
router. I don't own one yet, but am considering the purchase of one even
though I already have a Makita plunge router. Ping Leon with any questions
you have for his Triton router.

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...itonrouter.htm



Is Triton gear still available in the US?
I know they are in receivership in Australia.
I have been waiting for someone to take it over so that I can get spare
parts for a 3 in 1 Sander.

Steve

wrote in message
...
I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice
at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes
without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the
plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far
from the miter slot, etc.)
I am looking to buy another router lift and router and want to
make sure I make the right purchase this time. I would consider a
router/lift combo if the some of the features are only available from
a lift using a certain router...
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

TIA

I have the first generation Rout-R-Lift by JessEm also and solved the
problem of changing bits easily. CMT used to offer a selection of bent
wrenches designed specifically for the routers they were selling at the
time. No more pulling the whole lift and router out to change a bit.

I wouldn't want to stop you from buying a new toy but JessEm has
several new models that should satisfy your needs.

Bob S.

I went with the woodpecker lift (the original 1/32 pitch one) and,
aside from it being "tight" (good for routing, harder on the crank)
I've found no fault in it.

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/
http://www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html

I also use a woodpeck lift with a DW621. You can adjust the elevation
screw to be less tight and it cranks easier. I couldn't be happier
with the setup. It's super quiet with no noticeable vibration.

For the original poster, if your current router lift is drifting down
then you need to lock the height adjustment on your router. I don't
think most lifts are designed to lock the height in place. Vibration
from the router will make the adjustment screw drift.

On Fri, 29 May 2009 03:31:43 -0500, wrote:

I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice
at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes
without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the
plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far
from the miter slot, etc.)
I am looking to buy another router lift and router and want to
make sure I make the right purchase this time. I would consider a
router/lift combo if the some of the features are only available from
a lift using a certain router...
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

I have a Jet Xacta lift and use an old Ryobi RE600 (before Ryobi was
complete junk) in it. I'm quite happy with the setup and am planning
to put it in my saw's extension table to free up floor space. I hope
I'm happy with the setup. I use both pretty regularly.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

My Benchdog has been perfect. For bit changes, I use my drill to run it
up/down quickly and use the hand wrench to make adjustments as fine as
you could ever want.

Been lusting for the BenchDog for some time. Is yours the cast iron
version?




Mine is a few years old and is the aluminum housing. I have a Bosch 1617EVS
mounted in it. It was not cheap, but I don't ever regret buying it as it is
a real joy to use.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

My Benchdog has been perfect. For bit changes, I use my drill to run it
up/down quickly and use the hand wrench to make adjustments as fine as
you could ever want.
Been lusting for the BenchDog for some time. Is yours the cast iron
version?




Mine is a few years old and is the aluminum housing. I have a Bosch 1617EVS
mounted in it. It was not cheap, but I don't ever regret buying it as it is
a real joy to use.

Glad to hear that report. Almost took the plunge when Rockler had their
25% sale recently, but it has been a while since I did any homework on
the unit ... and the youngest is still in college (could buy 4 of the
BD's for the price of one class of summer tuition I paid just yesterday)

.... the BD will have to wait until we no longer have to eat crawfish
outta the front ditch.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Steven Boyes" wrote in message
Is Triton gear still available in the US?
I know they are in receivership in Australia.
I have been waiting for someone to take it over so that I can get spare
parts for a 3 in 1 Sander.

Can't answer that as I'm in Canada. Their routers are still available as
I've seen them in stores. Try contacting them at
http://www.tritonwoodworking.com/

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

... the BD will have to wait until we no longer have to eat crawfish outta
the front ditch.

Whoa! I though you were getting the mud bugs from Randall's....

Leon wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
... the BD will have to wait until we no longer have to eat crawfish outta
the front ditch.

Whoa! I though you were getting the mud bugs from Randall's....

LOL ... thought that might get a rise out of you!



--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
... the BD will have to wait until we no longer have to eat crawfish
outta the front ditch.

Whoa! I though you were getting the mud bugs from Randall's....

LOL ... thought that might get a rise out of you!



Would we like COLD Fosters with the bugs?

wrote:
I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice
at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes
without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the
plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far
from the miter slot, etc.)
I am looking to buy another router lift and router and want to
make sure I make the right purchase this time. I would consider a
router/lift combo if the some of the features are only available from
a lift using a certain router...
The most important thing to me is that I can do above table
bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it
at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to
still be at 1/4 on the last board.

If it were me I'd rather get something like this:

http://grizzly.com/products/3-4-HP-Shaper/G0510Z

That way, you still have your old router when you need it, as a router,
and will have a real shaper when you need it. The lift mechanism on my
shaper is flawless and changing bits is a snap. I don't have, or know
anything about the one above, but I bet it's better than most routers
used as a shaper...

It's also nice to have both, I often have one setup in the shaper, and a
different one in the router, saves a lot of fussing with set-ups.

--
Jack
Go Penns!
http://jbstein.com

If it were me I'd rather get something like this:

http://grizzly.com/products/3-4-HP-Shaper/G0510Z

That way, you still have your old router when you need it, as a router,
and will have a real shaper when you need it. The lift mechanism on my
shaper is flawless and changing bits is a snap. I don't have, or know
anything about the one above, but I bet it's better than most routers
used as a shaper...

It's also nice to have both, I often have one setup in the shaper, and a
different one in the router, saves a lot of fussing with set-ups.


Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message

Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.


That looks like a real HP rating though, probably equal to a 3 HP router.

-MIKE- wrote:
If it were me I'd rather get something like this:

http://grizzly.com/products/3-4-HP-Shaper/G0510Z

That way, you still have your old router when you need it, as a
router, and will have a real shaper when you need it. The lift
mechanism on my shaper is flawless and changing bits is a snap. I
don't have, or know anything about the one above, but I bet it's
better than most routers used as a shaper...

It's also nice to have both, I often have one setup in the shaper, and
a different one in the router, saves a lot of fussing with set-ups.


Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper/G1035

My Dad has this model, and it's a lot of machine in a nice compact
package. Beats the hell out of a router for swinging the big bits, and
if you're running standard shaper cutters (instead of router bits) you
also have the ability to invert the bit and reverse the motor rotation,
which is *very* handy for certain profiles.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.


That looks like a real HP rating though, probably equal to a 3 HP router.

Oh hell yeah; the cutter is belt driven by a beefy induction motor.
*Way* more powerful than my 3HP Makita router.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper/G1035

My Dad has this model, and it's a lot of machine in a nice compact
package. Beats the hell out of a router for swinging the big bits, and
if you're running standard shaper cutters (instead of router bits) you
also have the ability to invert the bit and reverse the motor rotation,
which is *very* handy for certain profiles.

Just out of interest's sake, how loud is your dad's shaper? Would you
compare it to a 3 hp router which I'd brand as extremely loud or is it
considerable more subdued?

Steve Turner wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.


That looks like a real HP rating though, probably equal to a 3 HP router.

Oh hell yeah; the cutter is belt driven by a beefy induction motor.
*Way* more powerful than my 3HP Makita router.


Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on
different machines and motors and whatnot.

*I'll take for granted the opinion of a trusted, knowledgeable guy like
Steve.

(*That's for the nice things said about me to that douche nozzle over in
rmmp.) :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Upscale wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper/G1035

My Dad has this model, and it's a lot of machine in a nice compact
package. Beats the hell out of a router for swinging the big bits, and
if you're running standard shaper cutters (instead of router bits) you
also have the ability to invert the bit and reverse the motor rotation,
which is *very* handy for certain profiles.

Just out of interest's sake, how loud is your dad's shaper? Would you
compare it to a 3 hp router which I'd brand as extremely loud or is it
considerable more subdued?

The latter, definitely. More of a low-pitch throaty sound and not
nearly as loud as the high-pitch scream of the universal motors found in
your typical "3HP" router. Of course, shapers only spin the bit at
about 10,000 RPM so that's a contributing factor too. Either machine is
still going to make a fair amount of noise once you start cutting wood,
but the shaper just seems to do it more quietly, and its sheer
smoothness and power makes it more satisfying to use (IMO).

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Oh hell yeah; the cutter is belt driven by a beefy induction motor. *Way*
more powerful than my 3HP Makita router.


Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on
different machines and motors and whatnot.

*I'll take for granted the opinion of a trusted, knowledgeable guy like
Steve.

Most motors are rated in horsepower or kilowatts as a measure of the output
power. 1 HP is about 745 watts.

Some motors, though, are made to sound more powerful by using a different
method. They lock up the motor shaft and measure the power just before it
stalls. It takes a lot of watts that way and sounds better in advertising
brochures.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Oh hell yeah; the cutter is belt driven by a beefy induction motor. *Way*
more powerful than my 3HP Makita router.

Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on
different machines and motors and whatnot.

*I'll take for granted the opinion of a trusted, knowledgeable guy like
Steve.

Most motors are rated in horsepower or kilowatts as a measure of the output
power. 1 HP is about 745 watts.

Some motors, though, are made to sound more powerful by using a different
method. They lock up the motor shaft and measure the power just before it
stalls. It takes a lot of watts that way and sounds better in advertising
brochures.


It's like I said before - the screaming you hear from a universal motor
is the sound of the excess horsepower being sucked through the
interdimensional vortex.

Upscale wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

The only benefit I can see is a little bit of portability and being able to
use the router out of the table. Not much benefit as far as I can see.

It never occurred to me and leads me to ask ~ is there *any* reason to buy a
router and stick it in a table when one can get a decent shaper for the same
money?

Shaper bits are *expensive*. Most shapers can accommodate router bits
as well, but remember a shaper only spins at about 10,000 RPM (you don't
need to go any faster when you're spinning those big bits), and that's
almost painfully slow for something like a 1/4" straight bit.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

The only benefit I can see is a little bit of portability and being able to
use the router out of the table. Not much benefit as far as I can see.

It never occurred to me and leads me to ask ~ is there *any* reason to buy a
router and stick it in a table when one can get a decent shaper for the same
money?

"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
It's like I said before - the screaming you hear from a universal motor
is the sound of the excess horsepower being sucked through the
interdimensional vortex.

Oh well, guess I have nothing to worry about then. I've got my own
interdimensional vortex power tap.

Her name is Lucy...

On Sun, 31 May 2009 14:15:02 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on
different machines and motors and whatnot.

The best primer I've seen on that subject:

http://www.kevinsbrady.net/motors.pdf

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

On Sun, 31 May 2009 14:15:02 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on
different machines and motors and whatnot.

1 HP = 746 watts.

When you're talking about AC motors, the "real" horsepower output of
the motor, regardless of the marketing hype, will be fairly close to:

HP = (.75 * Amps * Voltage)/746

Where Amps and Voltage are the dataplate values on the motor or
appliance. The .75 fudge factor is a ball park estimate to account for
electrical and mechanical efficiencies which are always less than 100%
and for the AC power factor which will vary with the load on the
motor. High load, higher power factor. Low load, lower power factor.

Overall motor efficiencies vary from type to type, and from model to
model within the same type, but when comparing two similar motors,
it's usually a good assumption that the higher amperage motor will be
the more powerful of the two.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
Shaper bits are *expensive*. Most shapers can accommodate router bits
as well, but remember a shaper only spins at about 10,000 RPM (you don't
need to go any faster when you're spinning those big bits), and that's
almost painfully slow for something like a 1/4" straight bit.

Are there any decently priced shapers on the market capable of router
speeds? Or, is that a conflict of usage?

Upscale wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
Shaper bits are *expensive*. Most shapers can accommodate router bits
as well, but remember a shaper only spins at about 10,000 RPM (you don't
need to go any faster when you're spinning those big bits), and that's
almost painfully slow for something like a 1/4" straight bit.

Are there any decently priced shapers on the market capable of router
speeds? Or, is that a conflict of usage?

If there are, I'm not aware of them. My impression is that the ability
of a shaper to accommodate router bits is a "nice to have" feature, but
shapers are designed for the big jobs and router bits will either work
for you or they won't depending on the job at hand. As much as I'd
*love* to have a shaper, I only have room for so many machines and most
of what I do can be handled by a router table. I'd have both if I had
the room.

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
Upscale wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
Shaper bits are *expensive*. Most shapers can accommodate router bits
as well, but remember a shaper only spins at about 10,000 RPM (you don't
need to go any faster when you're spinning those big bits), and that's
almost painfully slow for something like a 1/4" straight bit.

Are there any decently priced shapers on the market capable of router
speeds? Or, is that a conflict of usage?

If there are, I'm not aware of them. My impression is that the ability
of a shaper to accommodate router bits is a "nice to have" feature, but
shapers are designed for the big jobs ...

Bingo.

Shaper cutters have maximum tip speed ratings that would be exceeded at
the higher rpm of a router. I can't imagine a manufacturer supplying a
drive speed approaching that of a router w/ a shaper as it would be
quite a complication to prevent it from being used w/ the normal
spindles, not just w/ the router collet.

--

"dpb" wrote in message
Shaper cutters have maximum tip speed ratings that would be exceeded at
the higher rpm of a router. I can't imagine a manufacturer supplying a
drive speed approaching that of a router w/ a shaper as it would be
quite a complication to prevent it from being used w/ the normal
spindles, not just w/ the router collet.

I'm sure it's my lack of engineering comprehension, but I don't see why a
shaper could not be manufactured that would be capable of the faster speeds
when using router bits. Obviously there's some reason or someone would have
marketed one already.

That brings me to another question along the same lines. You've got nailers
that run on compressed air and now, you've got battery rechargeable nailers
coming on the market. Why has there never been nailers manufactured that run
on 120v power, bypassing the need for a compressor? What am I missing?

Upscale wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
Shaper cutters have maximum tip speed ratings that would be exceeded at
the higher rpm of a router. I can't imagine a manufacturer supplying a
drive speed approaching that of a router w/ a shaper as it would be
quite a complication to prevent it from being used w/ the normal
spindles, not just w/ the router collet.

I'm sure it's my lack of engineering comprehension, but I don't see why a
shaper could not be manufactured that would be capable of the faster speeds
when using router bits. Obviously there's some reason or someone would have
marketed one already.

It's not that it couldn't, only that it would be more expensive for a
(relatively) minor purpose of the machine.

In previous post I was mostly thinking of the liability issue of the
simple solution of a simple variable-speed drive of then using the high
speed w/ large cutters. As above, a solution for only the collet would
be more complicated; ergo, expensive.

That brings me to another question along the same lines. You've got nailers
that run on compressed air and now, you've got battery rechargeable nailers
coming on the market. Why has there never been nailers manufactured that run
on 120v power, bypassing the need for a compressor? What am I missing?

Airlines/tote-able compressors less pita factor than extension
cord/genset is my guess. Weight could at least initially have been a
factor as a secondary even more WAG...

--

On Jun 1, 10:04*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message
Shaper cutters have maximum tip speed ratings that would be exceeded at
the higher rpm of a router. *I can't imagine a manufacturer supplying a
drive speed approaching that of a router w/ a shaper as it would be
quite a complication to prevent it from being used w/ the normal
spindles, not just w/ the router collet.

I'm sure it's my lack of engineering comprehension, but I don't see why a
shaper could not be manufactured that would be capable of the faster speeds
when using router bits. Obviously there's some reason or someone would have
marketed one already.

Product liability? Some fool sticking a shaper head in the thing and
cranking it up to router speeds? Interlocks would be expensive and an
unwanted complication.

That brings me to another question along the same lines. You've got nailers
that run on compressed air and now, you've got battery rechargeable nailers
coming on the market. Why has there never been nailers manufactured that run
on 120v power, bypassing the need for a compressor? What am I missing?

My guess is that nailers are commonly used by carpenters where there
isn't yet electrical power. Gasoline powered compressors are pretty
common on job sites.

BTW, what is a gas nailer? I just ran across them on the Hitachi
site, but there is no explanation.

wrote:
....
BTW, what is a gas nailer? I just ran across them on the Hitachi
site, but there is no explanation.

Paslode was original. Use a combustible gas cannister (propane/butane,
I think?) w/ a battery-powered electrical discharge to power the drive
piston. Eliminates air hose at somewhat higher operating cost.

I think the Paslode site has good info; I didn't look but I presume
www.paslode.com will get you there.

--

-MIKE- wrote:
If it were me I'd rather get something like this:

http://grizzly.com/products/3-4-HP-Shaper/G0510Z

That way, you still have your old router when you need it, as a
router, and will have a real shaper when you need it. The lift
mechanism on my shaper is flawless and changing bits is a snap. I
don't have, or know anything about the one above, but I bet it's
better than most routers used as a shaper...

It's also nice to have both, I often have one setup in the shaper, and
a different one in the router, saves a lot of fussing with set-ups.


Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

My first guess is the 3/4 HP is OK, particularly compared to the "3 1/2
HP routers. I have a small Rockwell 1/2" shaper with a 1 HP motor. If
you made a 1hp router out of it (the motor) it would take 2 guys to
handle it.

Anyway, I never had a power problem with the shaper. 3/4 horse may be a
little light but only for something like a large panel raising bit but
I'd bet my 1 hp shaper will strain less than a 3 horse router doing the
same operation. I'd be doing more than one pass for this anyway.

I tend to look at my shaper as a heavy duty router. I hate using a
router for anything, they scream at you and sound totally obnoxious.
Any time I turn on my router I understand why the hand tool fanatics
stay away from power tools.

I'd buy the 1 1/2 horse for other reasons than HP rating though. Read
the specs, you get two speeds - 7 & 10,000rpm, 1/2" and 3/4" spindles,
larger spindle openings. These things are good, and if I were buying
one, I'd surely go for the 1 1/2hp.


--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

Upscale wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-1-2-HP-Shaper/G1035

My Dad has this model, and it's a lot of machine in a nice compact
package. Beats the hell out of a router for swinging the big bits, and
if you're running standard shaper cutters (instead of router bits) you
also have the ability to invert the bit and reverse the motor rotation,
which is *very* handy for certain profiles.

Just out of interest's sake, how loud is your dad's shaper? Would you
compare it to a 3 hp router which I'd brand as extremely loud or is it
considerable more subdued?

The router is the only power tool I hate, because of the sound. A
shaper sounds great, a router screams. Before I got a shaper I made a
router table, which works fine but ties up my router, and it doesn't
have all the fancy lift and bit changing stuff like the routers people
are buying now specifically to stick in a table.

Mostly now, I use my router for what it was designed, as a portable
shaper, or if you like, my shaper is a stationary router. Both are good
at there respective jobs, but mixing them up should only be to save
money, one tool, two jobs. Buying a second router specifically for use
as a shaper seems foolish, particularly when spending about the same
amount of money... might as well go with the tool designed for the task.

--
Jack
Go Penns!
http://jbstein.com

Upscale wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea.
I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me,
especially on something designed for such large cutters heads.
Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

The only benefit I can see is a little bit of portability and being able to
use the router out of the table. Not much benefit as far as I can see.

It never occurred to me and leads me to ask ~ is there *any* reason to buy a
router and stick it in a table when one can get a decent shaper for the same
money?

A woodworker needs a router, he doesn't need a shaper. Sticking a
router in a table works, lugging around a shaper is tough. Shaper
cutters are a good bit more expensive and harder to find. I can go to
rockler or sears store and buy router bits, but not shaper bits. If you
already have a bunch of good router bits, well, they won't work well in
a shaper which generally spin less than 10,000 rpm. My recommendation
for the home workshop is only get a shaper if you already have a router.
A router is an ok shaper, a shaper doesn't work well with your
dovetail jig...

--
Jack
Go Penns!
http://jbstein.com