DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster. Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news |
| Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

I hear you. I learned glazing the hard way about a year ago trying to bring
a property I own up to code.

Do you have a glazing knife? If you're trying to do it with a standard
putty knife, you may find your knife is too flexible. The proper knife
really does help, especially on corners.

Make sure your rabbets are absolutely spotlessly clean. Rough them up to
give "tooth".

Warm the putty by rolling it in your hands until it's about the consistency
of bread dough. Keep mineral spirits and soap and water handy for when your
hands get all gooky, but don't get any on the glass, frames, or in the putty
itself.

Plan on breaking a pane or two while learning.

At the end of my exercise I wasn't a glazing expert either, but I did
acquire enough skill to press a line of putty from corner to corner without
having it peel away from the glass or the rabbet, or look like it was done
by a monkey.

Yes, there's a reason we don't do a lot of house windows that way anymore.

--Jay (a different one)

Jay,

Been there, done that...... Calm down, grab a cup of Joe and relax, we'll
get you thru this even if it kills you....

Be sure the glass and sash are clean (use mineral spirits). I'm assuming
you're using an oil based putty. Temperature of putty needs to be above 50F,
as the cold will make the glazing miserable to work with and resist touching
it with your fingers once it has been applied to the window.

Make a 6" long (approximately - we're not doing rocket science here) snake
by rolling it between your hands and make it a little larger in diameter
than needed (experience will tell you how big to make it - not critical).
Place the snake on the glass at the sash (or muntin if you have divided
windows). Clean your hands.

Now, when forming it, dip your putty knife in some mineral sprits and form
the "wedge" by holding the knife at ~45deg to the glass and go from the
glass to the sash in one downward swipe forcing the glazing into the groove
between the glass and wood and forming the wedge which will be the width of
the putty knife you're using (~ 1.5" to 2").

Leave it - it isn't perfect yet but leave it alone and do the next swipe.
You swipe from top to bottom doing the width of your putty knife - not from
side to side. Go all around the window (make more putty snakes as you go)
to get the glazing down so it looks like a wedge and no longer like a snake.
At this point, its a pretty ugly looking glazing job.

Now, (hard to explain but easy to do) go to the corner, tilt knife slightly
to the side but flat to the glass at a 45deg angle to make the corner, press
down slightly and pull knife slightly to the side away from the corner a
couple of inches. Do the other side of the corner - again, it won't be
perfect but you will fix that in the last step.

Now, dip the knife in mineral spirits again and use it as a spatula to
smooth some of the ripples out of the glazing around the window - again
top-to-bottom, not side to side (you're not a pro yet - next window maybe).

Go around the window, keeping the mineral spirits on the putty (it will
evaporate off) so it doesn't stick and pull with the knife and smooth the
little ripples down. Now you have somewhat of a decent looking glazing job
but there's still some vertical ripples to smooth out. Wet the knife
(mineral spirits) and carefully place it near one corner at a slight angle
with the corner tip of the blade at the top line of the glazing and the body
of the knife on the sash.

Now, with a little pressure applied to keep the knife on the glass and wood,
use your other hand to help guide the knife along the edge as you pull the
knife towards the other corner. Stop short a few inches from the far corner
(to avoid ruining the corner by pushing more putty into it). If there's an
excess of putty (yeah there is, you still ain't a pro yet), knife it off
(top to bottom). Now do the same thing that you just did but start from
that corner and go back the other way. Keep the mineral spirits on the
putty. Repeat as necessary and when you have this down to one swipe across
in each direction - get your card punched, you're ready!

You'll soon learn how much putty is needed and will avoid having to knife a
lot off in the final steps. The trick is to keep the putty warm, slightly
moist with mineral spirits and keep the knife moving at a constant rate and
pressure once you're doing the final pass (side to side). Any putty on the
glass can be scrapped off with a razor blade later or cleaned off with
mineral spirits after the putty has set up.

Get into the mood for doing this, its not difficult once you get a rhythm
going and keep moving. Its been a few years but I've done "several" house
full of windows over the years. Certainly not a pro but those tips worked
for me.

Now the pro's will jump in and tell you some better ways (like outsourcing
the job....)

Bob S.


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster. Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

In addition to Bob's excellent advice, I'd like to add this:

DAP 33 is the worst glazing compound on the planet. It's too daggone soft and
gooey, and it won't stick to wood or glass no matter what you do. About the
only thing that it *will* stick to is a putty knife.

Throw the "33" in the garbage where it belongs, find an Ace Hardware store,
and get yourself a tub of their house brand. It makes a world of difference.

If you don't have an Ace handy, look for the Red Devil brand. It's nearly as
good.

If you can't find that either... try the "house brand" from just about any
real hardware store (e.g. Ace or Tru-Value, not Lowe's, Home Depot, etc). I've
had pretty good luck with some of those, too. The main thing you're looking
for is a compound that's quite stiff in the tub, but softens slightly as you
work it back and forth in your fingers.

In article , "Bob S."
wrote:
Jay,

Been there, done that...... Calm down, grab a cup of Joe and relax, we'll
get you thru this even if it kills you....

Be sure the glass and sash are clean (use mineral spirits). I'm assuming
you're using an oil based putty. Temperature of putty needs to be above 50F,
as the cold will make the glazing miserable to work with and resist touching
it with your fingers once it has been applied to the window.

Make a 6" long (approximately - we're not doing rocket science here) snake
by rolling it between your hands and make it a little larger in diameter
than needed (experience will tell you how big to make it - not critical).
Place the snake on the glass at the sash (or muntin if you have divided
windows). Clean your hands.

Now, when forming it, dip your putty knife in some mineral sprits and form
the "wedge" by holding the knife at ~45deg to the glass and go from the
glass to the sash in one downward swipe forcing the glazing into the groove
between the glass and wood and forming the wedge which will be the width of
the putty knife you're using (~ 1.5" to 2").

Leave it - it isn't perfect yet but leave it alone and do the next swipe.
You swipe from top to bottom doing the width of your putty knife - not from
side to side. Go all around the window (make more putty snakes as you go)
to get the glazing down so it looks like a wedge and no longer like a snake.
At this point, its a pretty ugly looking glazing job.

Now, (hard to explain but easy to do) go to the corner, tilt knife slightly
to the side but flat to the glass at a 45deg angle to make the corner, press
down slightly and pull knife slightly to the side away from the corner a
couple of inches. Do the other side of the corner - again, it won't be
perfect but you will fix that in the last step.

Now, dip the knife in mineral spirits again and use it as a spatula to
smooth some of the ripples out of the glazing around the window - again
top-to-bottom, not side to side (you're not a pro yet - next window maybe).

Go around the window, keeping the mineral spirits on the putty (it will
evaporate off) so it doesn't stick and pull with the knife and smooth the
little ripples down. Now you have somewhat of a decent looking glazing job
but there's still some vertical ripples to smooth out. Wet the knife
(mineral spirits) and carefully place it near one corner at a slight angle
with the corner tip of the blade at the top line of the glazing and the body
of the knife on the sash.

Now, with a little pressure applied to keep the knife on the glass and wood,
use your other hand to help guide the knife along the edge as you pull the
knife towards the other corner. Stop short a few inches from the far corner
(to avoid ruining the corner by pushing more putty into it). If there's an
excess of putty (yeah there is, you still ain't a pro yet), knife it off
(top to bottom). Now do the same thing that you just did but start from
that corner and go back the other way. Keep the mineral spirits on the
putty. Repeat as necessary and when you have this down to one swipe across
in each direction - get your card punched, you're ready!

You'll soon learn how much putty is needed and will avoid having to knife a
lot off in the final steps. The trick is to keep the putty warm, slightly
moist with mineral spirits and keep the knife moving at a constant rate and
pressure once you're doing the final pass (side to side). Any putty on the
glass can be scrapped off with a razor blade later or cleaned off with
mineral spirits after the putty has set up.

Get into the mood for doing this, its not difficult once you get a rhythm
going and keep moving. Its been a few years but I've done "several" house
full of windows over the years. Certainly not a pro but those tips worked
for me.

Now the pro's will jump in and tell you some better ways (like outsourcing
the job....)

Bob S.


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster. Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads
from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing
onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every
****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster.
Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply
it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives
all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the
day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

Damn.......next they'll be telling me that we have pre-packaged, sliced
bread at the borgs too...what's this world coming to anyhow...

Good points from both Doug and solarman.

Bob S.


"solarman" wrote in message
...
No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads
from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing
onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every
****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster.
Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply
it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives
all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the
day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

Not only that, but my old 5 in 1 is getting a bit rusty these
days... most you'll need is a 3/4 putty knife to nix the goofs
here and there. The stuff cures in a few hours and ready to
paint... Some of the Borg's around here sell Whoppers and chicken
too...

"Bob S." wrote in message
.. .
Damn.......next they'll be telling me that we have pre-packaged,
sliced
bread at the borgs too...what's this world coming to anyhow...

Good points from both Doug and solarman.

Bob S.


"solarman" wrote in message
...
No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick
anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons
of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the
bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....


"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few
threads
from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33"
Glazing
onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every
****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster.
Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to
apply
it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty
knives
all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the
day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 20:40:04 GMT, "Bob S." wrote:

"solarman" wrote in message
...

No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....

Damn.......next they'll be telling me that we have pre-packaged, sliced
bread at the borgs too...what's this world coming to anyhow...

Good points from both Doug and solarman.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm debating whether or not to rip
off the ones that I've already done and start over. They sorta look
like crap, but they're at least "done" for now.

In the future I'll definitely go with glazing in a tube, a real
glazier's tool, mineral spirits out the ying-yang and a good dose of
patience on tap for the inevitable frustrations.

It's odd - I don't mind a lot of the tasks involved with restoration,
but painting trim and glazing windows really bug me. I can sit and
heat strip or sand or paint with a 4 incher all day long and be quite
content. And the repair work and refitting is the bomb - it's the
detail finishing that I'm not so keen on.

Who knows - it's probably just lack of experience.

Thanks again.

JP

No....just mind set more than anything else. You knew going in that you
didn't know how to do this "easily" and it was down hill from there. Now
you know ........ and now you can really hate it!

Bob S.



Who knows - it's probably just lack of experience.

Thanks again.

JP

the last time I tried the "putty in a tube" thing wasprolly 4-5 years
ago. at first it seemed like a good idea, but after a while I gave it
up. the stuff in the tube definitely wasn't putty. it seemed to me
more like latex caulking with chalk filler. the consistency was way
"wetter" than I wanted. it skinned over quickly but took a while to
dry. I had terrible luck trying to get a decent surface on it. the
skin would drag and tear and there was nothing to do but scoop it out
and start over. I didn't try anything with mineral spirits onna
account of the latex base.
Bridger




On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 19:39:16 -0500, Jay Pique
wrote:

On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 20:40:04 GMT, "Bob S." wrote:

"solarman" wrote in message
.. .

No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....

Damn.......next they'll be telling me that we have pre-packaged, sliced
bread at the borgs too...what's this world coming to anyhow...

Good points from both Doug and solarman.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm debating whether or not to rip
off the ones that I've already done and start over. They sorta look
like crap, but they're at least "done" for now.

In the future I'll definitely go with glazing in a tube, a real
glazier's tool, mineral spirits out the ying-yang and a good dose of
patience on tap for the inevitable frustrations.

It's odd - I don't mind a lot of the tasks involved with restoration,
but painting trim and glazing windows really bug me. I can sit and
heat strip or sand or paint with a 4 incher all day long and be quite
content. And the repair work and refitting is the bomb - it's the
detail finishing that I'm not so keen on.

Who knows - it's probably just lack of experience.

Thanks again.

JP

Mineral spirits on a cloth, keep the "stiff" blade putty knife clean. (I
actually use an old chisel with great success) Don't let the glazing putty
get squishy soft, and pack it against the sash well, pressing against the
wood before forming. The secret the pro's will share is trying to get the
glazing putty no higher than the inside sash. And here is one I will share.
After forming the angle, you sometimes get little splits in the putty
against the class. Wipe your blade with spirits and with as little pressure
as possible draw the knife the opposite direction, don't force it. The
splits will be gone.

Dave

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster. Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

Jay, that was great advice from Bob S. Go for it. Yea do not forget the ones
that look crappy. You might be able to smooth them out with the putty knife
dipped in mineral spirits. Good luck.

OBTW........Did you hear about the blonde that didn't know the difference
between putty and Vaseline????

All her windows fell out {:-))
Muff

--


---------------------------------------------------------------------
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There is a solution!"

Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector
The most powerful anti-spam software available.
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"Jay Pique" wrote in message
news
DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster. Glazing
stuck to everything but the rabbet to which I'm trying to apply it,
little wads of it smushed flat in the middle of the glass,
fingerprints mashed into the corners, six different putty knives all
over the floor....the list goes on. Incompetence rules the day.
WTF?

AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHHH!!!!

Somebody needs to build a better friggin' mousetrap.

JP
*************************
Just plain frustrated.

On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 18:06:12 -0700, wrote:

the last time I tried the "putty in a tube" thing wasprolly 4-5 years
ago. at first it seemed like a good idea, but after a while I gave it
up. the stuff in the tube definitely wasn't putty. it seemed to me
more like latex caulking with chalk filler. the consistency was way
"wetter" than I wanted. it skinned over quickly but took a while to
dry. I had terrible luck trying to get a decent surface on it. the
skin would drag and tear and there was nothing to do but scoop it out
and start over. I didn't try anything with mineral spirits onna
account of the latex base.
Bridger

This was my experience too. I threw the remaining portion of the tube
out. It appeared to me to be nothing more than latex caulk. It didnt
even retain its nice edge when it dried. It shrunk and the fillet took
on a concave sunken look.

Unless I used a different product than described, I'd stay away from
the "putty in a tube" product. I've had best luck with the ACE
Hardware housebrand as described previously. I also have used DAP33
but I add a small amount of Penetrol to it to soften it up and make it
stick better.

dickm

In addition to all the other comments, look at the Home Desperado for a
Hyde Glazing Knife; it has a flat blad at one end, and an angled blad at
the other. Where the angles of the blade meet is a gap, which lets the
excess putty come out as you slide it along the putty bead.

Also, (if possible) look at your window from the other side to make sure
you aren't covering up too much of the glass. Also a good way to see if
your putty line is really even.

--
Jedd Haas - Artist
http://www.gallerytungsten.com
http://www.antijazz.com
http://www.epsno.com

Jay Pique wrote in
:

On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 20:40:04 GMT, "Bob S." wrote:

"solarman" wrote in message
.. .

No need to do the rolling in hands and fingers trick anymore....
It comes in a tube to fit an ordinary caulking gun. Saves tons of
time and the end of the tube is square to help form the bead...

Home Depot has plenty of them. I just finished doing about 15
windows day before yesterday with the stuff....

Damn.......next they'll be telling me that we have pre-packaged, sliced
bread at the borgs too...what's this world coming to anyhow...

Good points from both Doug and solarman.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm debating whether or not to rip
off the ones that I've already done and start over. They sorta look
like crap, but they're at least "done" for now.

In the future I'll definitely go with glazing in a tube, a real
glazier's tool, mineral spirits out the ying-yang and a good dose of
patience on tap for the inevitable frustrations.

It's odd - I don't mind a lot of the tasks involved with restoration,
but painting trim and glazing windows really bug me. I can sit and
heat strip or sand or paint with a 4 incher all day long and be quite
content. And the repair work and refitting is the bomb - it's the
detail finishing that I'm not so keen on.

Who knows - it's probably just lack of experience.

Thanks again.

JP


Yup it's the detail stuff that takes about 90% of the time and seems to be
about 10% of the show, but if you screw it up, everybody sees it.
I do a lot of restoration work so I know where you're coming from.
Glazing is more pracxtice than art. 33 sucks, so have good advice there.
Roll a rope that is about 1/2 proud of the rabbet and lay it in. Wet the
knife with mineral spirits or blo and press it in one fell swoop (or is it
swope). I prefer blo to mineral spirits, but both work.
Useta ski at JP a bit. How's the snow now. Been skiing for a week or so
here.
Regards,
Hank (in the Catskills)


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I've just finished making a set of 4 casement windows for a local
farm-house. 300-yo Georgian house, and the planners like replacement
windows to match the old ones. These buggers had 2 x 6-pane lights apiece,
one opening and one fixed. Thing about Georgian window, is that they have
very fine glazing bars (to let in as much light as possible and give that
delicate tracery feeling). These ones were lamb's-tongue profile, just over
5/8ths at their widest point, which only allows for a 1/4" rebate for the
glass.

The jerk of a builder who fitted and glazed them must have applied the putty
with his brickying trowel. I'll concede that it must be difficult to make
such a fine putty bead that it doesn't stand over the rebate, but this guy's
work, while neat enough, makes the glazing bars appear about 1" thick, which
completely ruins the look and negates all that searching for a suitable
router cutter to make the slim sash bars and the fiddly work M&T-ing such
fine moulding.

When I remonstrated with him, he at least had the grace to look somewhat
sheepish and has promised to trim the overhang when he removes the lights to
paint up the putty. Why remove the lights? Well, the windows are on the
3rd storey and he's afraid of ladder work and too cheap to hire a scaffold
tower. Bit of a handicap for a builder, I'd have thought....

Grrrr.

Frank




"Jedd Haas" wrote in message
...
In addition to all the other comments, look at the Home Desperado for a
Hyde Glazing Knife; it has a flat blad at one end, and an angled blad at
the other. Where the angles of the blade meet is a gap, which lets the
excess putty come out as you slide it along the putty bead.

Also, (if possible) look at your window from the other side to make sure
you aren't covering up too much of the glass. Also a good way to see if
your putty line is really even.

--
Jedd Haas - Artist
http://www.gallerytungsten.com
http://www.antijazz.com
http://www.epsno.com

Jay Pique writes:

DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster.

I feel your pain, my brother. Luckily I've only had to replace a pane here, a
pane there so my suffering has been as nowt compared to yours . . .

Other's have give excellect tips on working with glazing compound, but you
should consider this (URL'll prolly wrap, so C&P)

http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_det...1&prodhdrid=67

Unlike standard DAP 33 it's a latex, but friends tell me it holds up just fine.

Best,

Marc

Two words.........DAP CRAP

Dave

"MrAoD" wrote in message
...
Jay Pique writes:

DAGS (excuse me - "Did A Google Search") and found a few threads from
waaay back when. I'm in the process of slathering "33" Glazing onto a
bunch of door windows and I'm damn near ready to smash every ****ing
piece of glass I just pointed. What an absolute disaster.

I feel your pain, my brother. Luckily I've only had to replace a pane
here, a
pane there so my suffering has been as nowt compared to yours . . .

Other's have give excellect tips on working with glazing compound, but you
should consider this (URL'll prolly wrap, so C&P)


http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_det...1&prodhdrid=67

Unlike standard DAP 33 it's a latex, but friends tell me it holds up just
fine.

Best,

Marc

In article Fewzb.214350$Dw6.783344@attbi_s02, David Babcock
wrote:

Mineral spirits on a cloth, keep the "stiff" blade putty knife clean. (I
actually use an old chisel with great success) Don't let the glazing putty
get squishy soft, and pack it against the sash well, pressing against the
wood before forming. The secret the pro's will share is trying to get the
glazing putty no higher than the inside sash. And here is one I will share.
After forming the angle, you sometimes get little splits in the putty
against the class. Wipe your blade with spirits and with as little pressure
as possible draw the knife the opposite direction, don't force it. The
splits will be gone.

Dave



If it helps... I'll add my .02 worth. The last 3 times I glazed
windows, I smoothed the first application out with olive oil. I tried
this once up at the cottage because I really had nothing much else to
use. The next time I did the same thing because it worked so well the
first time. Now I will do the same thing every time because it has
worked 3 times in a row. The last time I glazed a window was after a
New Year's 'accident'. Bearing this is mind, the ole' Olive oil trick
worked perfectly even in January!

HTH



Andrew.

snip thread about using glazing compound to set glass...




I guess a lot of folks use mineral spirits. I've never heard of that
before! To me, it doesn't make sense. Minerals spirits, among other
things, is a cleaner...used to REMOVE oil. Why would someone want to
put any of that on glazing compound that CONTAINS oil?



Wishing you and yours a happy holiday season...

Trent




mineral spirits works fine. it works as a cleaner to keep the putty
knife clean, and the slick surface it leaves on the putty is easy to
get a nice finish with. really, not much thinner gets on the putty...

On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:23:02 -0500, Trent©
wrote:


I never heard of ANYBODY using mineral spirits before...and I've been
doin' windows for many a year!

Well that's just effin' great - I've got a gallon of mineral spirits
and two new putty knives just waiting to go and now THIS post comes
in.

JP
**************************
My eyes are glazing over.

On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 11:48:55 -0500, Jay Pique
brought forth from the murky depths:

On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:23:02 -0500, Trent©
wrote:

I never heard of ANYBODY using mineral spirits before...and I've been
doin' windows for many a year!

That was one of DAP's methods for eons. All linseed-oil-based
putties respond well to it.


Well that's just effin' great - I've got a gallon of mineral spirits
and two new putty knives just waiting to go and now THIS post comes
in.

Where did you get that blonde quote? It's great!


My eyes are glazing over.

Try a putty knife to remove it and then clean up with mineral
spirits, JP.


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