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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
Hi
I'd like to replace the only remaining none DG window in our extension with a UPVC window, the question is what should I measure? Width wise I've measured from brick to brick but I'm worried about the top of the window when it comes to measuring the height. The bricks sit on a thin layer of mortar on top of the RSJ, the lip of which is set back from the brick face, i.e. | Brick |________ | ------Mortar ======= ^ | Lintel Should I measure from the bottom of the cill to the bottom of the lintel and make up the gap with silicone filler (which doesn't sound aethetically appealing), or should I measure to the brick and "shape" the frame so that it sits flush with the brick? The distance between the brick and the bottom of the lintel is 7mm which is quite a thick bead of silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks Ross |
#2
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Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
RossG wrote: Hi I'd like to replace the only remaining none DG window in our extension with a UPVC window, the question is what should I measure? Width wise I've measured from brick to brick but I'm worried about the top of the window when it comes to measuring the height. The bricks sit on a thin layer of mortar on top of the RSJ, the lip of which is set back from the brick face, i.e. | Brick |________ | ------Mortar ======= ^ | Lintel Should I measure from the bottom of the cill to the bottom of the lintel and make up the gap with silicone filler (which doesn't sound aethetically appealing), or should I measure to the brick and "shape" the frame so that it sits flush with the brick? The distance between the brick and the bottom of the lintel is 7mm which is quite a thick bead of silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks Ross Well, the frame has to go *under* the lintel - there's no two ways about that. You can't start chopping bits off the frame so that some goes under and some doesn't. If you don't want to fill the gap between the frame and the brickwork with silicone, there are a couple of other possibilities. If you rake out some of the existing mortar, you may be able to re-point it, with some new mortar which extends from the top of the frame to the underside of the brickwork. Alternatively, you may be able to stick a length of uPVC beading along the top of the frame to cover the gap. When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in! -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
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Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
"Set Square" wrote in message
When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in! If you can see that the brickwork is excellent, plumb and level, get it made to measure otherwise allow a quarter of an inch height and width, to allow for scew. Tell the maker what you have done. If it goes pear shaped it is down to you. If they measure it, it is down to them. You can plane some off a plastic window. Not like you can with a wooden one though. -- Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG |
#4
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Sizing up window aperture for UPVC double glazing
"Michael Mcneil" wrote in message
When ordering the window, make it a few mm less the the actual aperture in both width and height - plus a bit more if the angles of the aperture are out of square - otherwise, you'll never get it in! If you can see that the brickwork is excellent, plumb and level, get it made to measure otherwise allow a quarter of an inch height and width, to allow for scew. Tell the maker what you have done. I thought I'd just ask a local none chain glazer to come round and measure so I could compare the cost of DIY and not DIY. He took one look at it and said it's a 1050 by 600 so the extension must have been built with standard sizes in mind. After he left I re-measured the existing wooden frame and it is actually 1050 by 631* which is indeed a standard size of casement window sold by the likes of M@gn*t et al. Why I didn't do this to start off with I don't know? Out of interest the window will cost approx. 140 and I've had a couple of quotes to fit ranging from 230 to 260, so I guess they estimate about 3 to 4 hours work. Cheers Ross * sizes are actually 5mm less but quoted as above - I wonder why? |
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