I've just finished making a set of 4 casement windows for a local
farm-house. 300-yo Georgian house, and the planners like replacement
windows to match the old ones. These buggers had 2 x 6-pane lights apiece,
one opening and one fixed. Thing about Georgian window, is that they have
very fine glazing bars (to let in as much light as possible and give that
delicate tracery feeling). These ones were lamb's-tongue profile, just over
5/8ths at their widest point, which only allows for a 1/4" rebate for the
glass.

The jerk of a builder who fitted and glazed them must have applied the putty
with his brickying trowel. I'll concede that it must be difficult to make
such a fine putty bead that it doesn't stand over the rebate, but this guy's
work, while neat enough, makes the glazing bars appear about 1" thick, which
completely ruins the look and negates all that searching for a suitable
router cutter to make the slim sash bars and the fiddly work M&T-ing such
fine moulding.

When I remonstrated with him, he at least had the grace to look somewhat
sheepish and has promised to trim the overhang when he removes the lights to
paint up the putty. Why remove the lights? Well, the windows are on the
3rd storey and he's afraid of ladder work and too cheap to hire a scaffold
tower. Bit of a handicap for a builder, I'd have thought....

Grrrr.

Frank




"Jedd Haas" wrote in message
...
In addition to all the other comments, look at the Home Desperado for a
Hyde Glazing Knife; it has a flat blad at one end, and an angled blad at
the other. Where the angles of the blade meet is a gap, which lets the
excess putty come out as you slide it along the putty bead.

Also, (if possible) look at your window from the other side to make sure
you aren't covering up too much of the glass. Also a good way to see if
your putty line is really even.

--
Jedd Haas - Artist
http://www.gallerytungsten.com
http://www.antijazz.com
http://www.epsno.com