What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling mounted
outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I have a large
planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to run power to it
from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor in the area and
I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend over the planer.

I'm thinking of a whip and a "chinese finger" or some such, but I'm not sure
what they're officially called. I've googled and looked at the grainger
catalog, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.

Thanks
Mike

Mike Dembroge wrote:
What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling mounted
outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I have a large
planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to run power to it
from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor in the area and
I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend over the planer.


I you can't feasibly supply power under floor, I use the hanging locking
plug and let the socket hang from the ceiling above head height, so if
there is reason to disconnect and move the equipment can walk upright
w/o dodging or running into it.

Something like Leviton 2320/2321 is 20A version, they're also available
in 30A if needed...

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:
What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling
mounted
outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I have
a large
planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to run power
to it
from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor in the area
and
I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend over the planer.

I'm thinking of a whip and a "chinese finger" or some such, but I'm
not sure
what they're officially called. I've googled and looked at the grainger
catalog, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.

Go to your handy dandy electrical wholesaler.

You want to get a fitting with a loop that fits into the Unistrut.

This is the point that will support the weight of the hanging cable.

Next you want a Kellums type cable grip that will grab the cable and
hook into the Unistrut fitting, leaving about a 2 ft pigtail where you
will attach a plug that will plug into the ceiling receptacle.

Doubt you will find any of this at Grainger or McMaster-Carr.

They are strictly an industrial electrical distributor items.

Lew

Thank you Mr. Hodgett, this helps me a lot.

Mike


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
k.net...
Mike Dembroge wrote:
What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling
mounted
outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I have
a large
planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to run power
to it
from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor in the area
and
I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend over the
planer.

I'm thinking of a whip and a "chinese finger" or some such, but I'm
not sure
what they're officially called. I've googled and looked at the grainger
catalog, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.

Go to your handy dandy electrical wholesaler.

You want to get a fitting with a loop that fits into the Unistrut.

This is the point that will support the weight of the hanging cable.

Next you want a Kellums type cable grip that will grab the cable and hook
into the Unistrut fitting, leaving about a 2 ft pigtail where you will
attach a plug that will plug into the ceiling receptacle.

Doubt you will find any of this at Grainger or McMaster-Carr.

They are strictly an industrial electrical distributor items.

Lew

Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.

Thanks again,

Mike


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Mike Dembroge wrote:
What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling
mounted outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I
have a large planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to
run power to it from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor
in the area and I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend
over the planer.


I you can't feasibly supply power under floor, I use the hanging locking
plug and let the socket hang from the ceiling above head height, so if
there is reason to disconnect and move the equipment can walk upright w/o
dodging or running into it.

Something like Leviton 2320/2321 is 20A version, they're also available in
30A if needed...

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:

Thank you Mr. Hodgett, this helps me a lot.

"Mr" was my father, I'm "Lew"

Glad to be of help.

Lew

Mike Dembroge wrote:

Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.


Is that at 120V or 240V?

Lew

On Jul 14, 6:45?pm, "Mike Dembroge"
wrote:
Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.

Mike

While you are getting in an overhead box you might consider something
to lower the 38 amps. Are you on 110 volts or 220?

Look on Ebay for your connector.

Bob AZ

Get ready for sticker shock on the 50 amp twist lock!!!
Pete Stanaitis
-------------------

Mike Dembroge wrote:
Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.

Thanks again,

Mike


"dpb" wrote in message ...

Mike Dembroge wrote:

What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling
mounted outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I
have a large planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to
run power to it from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor
in the area and I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend
over the planer.


I you can't feasibly supply power under floor, I use the hanging locking
plug and let the socket hang from the ceiling above head height, so if
there is reason to disconnect and move the equipment can walk upright w/o
dodging or running into it.

Something like Leviton 2320/2321 is 20A version, they're also available in
30A if needed...

--

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 01:45:05 GMT, "Mike Dembroge"
wrote:

Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.

If you strike out, try Hubbell. I had 50A / 220V 4-pin twist locks
in amplifier and dimmer racks for power distribution. Cable end and
surface mount were available.

Bring plenty of money.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

220v.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
nk.net...
Mike Dembroge wrote:

Thanks for the info. I'll look up what Leviton has. My planer draws 38
amps, so this is on a 50-amp circuit which I'm hoping won't make it more
difficult to find.


Is that at 120V or 240V?

Lew

"Bob AZ" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 14, 6:45?pm, "Mike Dembroge"

While you are getting in an overhead box you might consider something
to lower the 38 amps. Are you on 110 volts or 220?

It's 220v, 1ph. I don't have 3ph in my shop space and that's not an option
for me. The planer is an Oliver 4455 with a 7.5hp motor, so it's a beast
(considering this is a move up from a dewalt bench-top model).

The electrical is a bit of a tricky issue and a bit of a long story. This
is my first "pro" shop that I'm setting up. My shop space is an individual
"storage unit" inside a huge wearhouse.

When I first spoke with my current landlord about renting shop space from
him, he said that they supply a 100-amp panel in the space and put 110v
outlets every 10 feet down the sides of the shop. They have 1ph only
running to the building, and I was fine with that as long as I can put in
220v myself after I move in. After a few weeks, my landlord called me and
said that they were running 220v in his shop next to mine and why doesn't he
just run mine too as long as I show them where I want the outlets and how
many.

So, we talked about where to put the 220v outlets and and everything seemed
fine. That was, until I got a bill for $2,260. This is just to add four
220v circuits on top of the 110's that they were already adding. I was
floored! I can't see how adding the 4 circuits could take more than a day,
but I bit my tongue. I'm going to be here a long time and don't want to
make waves I guess, so I never said anything and just ate the cost as a
learning experience. The other kicker is that the 220v circuits are all
20-amp. When I ordered my planer, I neglected to realize how much more
power it would need. Being my first shop, I knew I was going to
overlook/screw-up something!

The reason this history is relevant is that my landlord is now saying that
he doesn't want me to add the 50-amp circuit for my planer myself. he wants
me to work with his electrician directly. I wonder how much this is going
to cost?

I can sort of see his point, and while I'm no electrician, I have wired my
own house and garage and have a dad who's a retired electrician. Plus, I'm
real careful. If Im' not sure about something, I have no qualms about asking
for help. I'm hoping I can come to a compromise and perhaps run all the EMT
and wires myself and then have the elctrician hook it into the panel.

Mike



Look on Ebay for your connector.
Very good idea. I'll check it out.


Bob AZ

Thanks Lew!


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
nk.net...
Mike Dembroge wrote:

Thank you Mr. Hodgett, this helps me a lot.

"Mr" was my father, I'm "Lew"

Glad to be of help.

Lew

Mike Dembroge wrote:
220v.

That inrush or nameplate?

If latter, thassa' 10 hp or maybe even greater.

I'm intrigued, what's the planer?

Lot bigger than I was figuring, my "old iron" Model 13 is only 5 hp. In
this case, better to go w/ something more on the lines of Lew's suggestion.

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Mike Dembroge wrote:
220v.

That inrush or nameplate?

I'm not familiar with the terms "inrush" or "nameplate". I've know what
"peak"power is. Is that the same as "inrush"? The plate on the unit states
"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?

If latter, thassa' 10 hp or maybe even greater.

I'm intrigued, what's the planer?

It's an Oliver 4455 planer with Shelix cutter head and has a 7.5hp motor.


Lot bigger than I was figuring, my "old iron" Model 13 is only 5 hp. In
this case, better to go w/ something more on the lines of Lew's
suggestion.

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:
"Bob AZ" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 14, 6:45?pm, "Mike Dembroge"

While you are getting in an overhead box you might consider something
to lower the 38 amps. Are you on 110 volts or 220?

It's 220v, 1ph. I don't have 3ph in my shop space and that's not an option
for me. The planer is an Oliver 4455 with a 7.5hp motor, so it's a beast
(considering this is a move up from a dewalt bench-top model).

....snip rest of saga for brevity--in short dealing w/ commercial
electrician instead of diy ...

Actually, this might be worth consideration of a single to 3-phase
converter if this is intended to be commercial shop. In particular I
can foresee additional equipment down the road if you're really going to
be here a while...

Just a thought if you can take a couple of days to work this out and
consider longer term...

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:

"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?

It's an Oliver 4455 planer with Shelix cutter head and has a 7.5hp motor.

I haven't got a code book handy, but a 2P-50A c'bkr is way TOO SMALL for
a 7.5HP/38A motor.

You need at least a 60A, probably bigger, just to get past the inrush
current.

Check the code.

Lew
+

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Mike Dembroge wrote:

"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?

It's an Oliver 4455 planer with Shelix cutter head and has a 7.5hp
motor.

I haven't got a code book handy, but a 2P-50A c'bkr is way TOO SMALL for
a 7.5HP/38A motor.

You need at least a 60A, probably bigger, just to get past the inrush
current.

Check the code.

I'm wondering on this planer w/ "Total Amperage" if there maybe are two
or more motors...cutterhead being larger and drive/table as others.
Don't know Oliver well enough by number to know for sure...

I'm w/ you, Lew, though, needs more thought methinks including perhaps
as I noted before might even be worth converting this beastie (back?) to
3 ph w/ converter...

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ...
Mike Dembroge wrote:
220v.
That inrush or nameplate?

I'm not familiar with the terms "inrush" or "nameplate". I've know what
"peak"power is. Is that the same as "inrush"? The plate on the unit states
"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?
....

"inrush" is the high starting current surge that can be multiples of the
steady-state current draw.

"nameplate" is what the manufacturer placed on the motor/device as its
requirements. Those are "real" values in the sense they are given
specifically to allow for proper sizing of wiring/starters/etc.

"peak" I presume you mean is the bogus marketing claim of some homeowner
class of products that is useless for anything other than dividing back
down by to get at least an approximation of reality...

--

dpb wrote:
....
Actually, this might be worth consideration of a single to 3-phase
converter if this is intended to be commercial shop. In particular I
can foresee additional equipment down the road if you're really going to
be here a while...

Just a thought if you can take a couple of days to work this out and
consider longer term...

Well, on reflection...

First, I was thinking of this planer being "old iron" and not new, when
it finally dawned on me the Shelix head obviously pretty-much
disqualifies that...

Second, also on reflection, the 3PH would cut down the wiring required
from the location of the converter to the motor/planer, but given the
arrangement you outlined it might still require the long run of large
capacity to supply it if you couldn't locate it near the service entrance.

I did go look at the Oliver Machinery site to see what I might learn,
but the spec's published there aren't as complete as what you've
provided, unfortunately, so still some question as to what the overall
requirement really is, precisely.

I'd probably shoot off a request to them (Oliver). If it's an
American-made motor (I don't know what Oliver is using these days and
their spec's didn't say), you could also contact the manufacturer for
clarification of the plate ratings. If the electrician is at all
experienced in other than simply household wiring, he should be able to
tell you what code requirements would/will be before making final decisions.

In just a quick lookup from my "Wiring Simplified", for a 7.5 hp motor
recommends #6 Cu wire for a maximum distance of 110 ft (one way) for 2%
voltage drop. Longer run would need large ampacity wire of course, and
if use Al for cost, even larger.

I did a quick calculation and 7.5 hp is theoretically 25A at 220V.
Assuming 80%, that is still "only" 32A so still a little pessimistic at
38A nameplate it would seem for running draw. I'd try to find motor
manufacturer, probably.

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:

"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?

It's an Oliver 4455 planer with Shelix cutter head and has a 7.5hp
motor.

Time to get serious.

Looked at the Oliver site.

Your machine is equipped with a 7-1/2HP, single phase motor and 38 FLA
is quite reasonable.

You want to hard wire this piece of equipment, forget plug and receptacle.

You want a dedicated circuit coming from the panel.

If it was my shop, I'd invest in a magnetic motor starter for a 7-1/2HP
motor complete with low voltage (120V) control.

Wiring in from an overhead drop is NBD, that's why SealTite was invented.

You need an industrial electrician, not some residential type contractor.

It's a piece of cake if you know what you're doing.

It will cost a few $, but then again, so did the planer.

Have fun.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Mike Dembroge wrote:

"Total Amperage: 38". Is that what you mean by "nameplate" perhaps?

It's an Oliver 4455 planer with Shelix cutter head and has a 7.5hp
motor.

Time to get serious.

Looked at the Oliver site.

Your machine is equipped with a 7-1/2HP, single phase motor and 38 FLA
is quite reasonable.

You want to hard wire this piece of equipment, forget plug and receptacle.

You want a dedicated circuit coming from the panel.

If it was my shop, I'd invest in a magnetic motor starter for a 7-1/2HP
motor complete with low voltage (120V) control.

I looked, too...

It has integral controls including motor start and emergency stop/reset.
Undoubtedly for a unit this size they are magnetic.

Other than that, can't disagree a bit...

--

You want to hard wire this piece of equipment, forget plug and receptacle.
I'll take a look at this option and talk to the electrician about. It's
looking like it's a good thing they're making me go through him. He does
commercial and is the guy that's been wiring up the entire building. he and
his partner.

You want a dedicated circuit coming from the panel.

If it was my shop, I'd invest in a magnetic motor starter for a 7-1/2HP
motor complete with low voltage (120V) control.
The machine has, what looks like, a standard magnetic starter embedded
inside it. I did some poking around when it was delivered. I emailed
Oliver to ask them what it's for, but haven't heard back yet. On your (and
dpb's) advice, I'm going to email or call them about recommendations for
wiring and connecting this to service.

Wiring in from an overhead drop is NBD, that's why SealTite was invented.
"NBD"?

You need an industrial electrician, not some residential type contractor.
The guy, Harold, is a commercial guy, so I'm just going to do whatever he
recommends.

It's a piece of cake if you know what you're doing.

It will cost a few $, but then again, so did the planer.
....and the jointer...and the DC...and the DC duct work!!!

Thanks Lew.

Mike Dembroge wrote:
....
The machine has, what looks like, a standard magnetic starter embedded
inside it. I did some poking around when it was delivered. ...

I looked at the owners manual and I'm convinced it _is_ a standard
starter and is internally wired to the control panel (p 5 iirc). You
(or the electrician) make field connections to the feed side of it and
you're all set to go.

--

Mike Dembroge wrote:

"NBD"?


As in No Big DealG

Lew

Yeah, I figured that out *after* I hit "Send"...doh!


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
ink.net...
Mike Dembroge wrote:

"NBD"?


As in No Big DealG

Lew

Well, it's all done and working fine now. I spoke with the electrician and
he told me what to get. I ran the EMT and wires and he hooked everything
up. It's hard-wired, so I'll have to use the circuit-breaker to shut off
the power, but the panel box is within view of the machine and it's not like
a table saw where you're putting your hands inside too often. Plus, there
is a safety switch attached to the hood, so when it's opened up, no power.

The run is almost exactly 100', so it took a bit of wire. All 6ga with the
ground being 10ga. Liquiflex from the overhead box to the machine and it's
all working fine. I'm going to bolt a piece of EMT to the planer along the
cord for 4-5 feet and tie the liquiflex to it for protection.

The electrician was really cool and did this on his lunch break for me. he
also let me use his company tubing bender each night, so I gave him $200 and
lunch for his time and help.

Thanks to everyone for the help (Lew & dpb). I appreciate it.

Mike

"Mike Dembroge" wrote in message
news
What is the best way to make an electrical connection froma ceiling
mounted outlet to machinery that is located in the center of a shop? I
have a large planer that is going into the center of my shop and need to
run power to it from above. There is a metal beam 11 feet from the floor
in the area and I've attached a piece of unistrut to this beam to extend
over the planer.

I'm thinking of a whip and a "chinese finger" or some such, but I'm not
sure what they're officially called. I've googled and looked at the
grainger catalog, but haven't found what I'm looking for yet.

Thanks
Mike