On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 04:11:28 +0000, Leon wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 22:58:02 +0000, Leon wrote:

What method does it use to support the curvature of the board so that you
get flattening?


There are about 8 or 9 even spaced rocker strips that the board actually
sets on and these set on the sled. The rocker strips use triangular wedges
that are dadoed in to each end and held in place by the very point of a
screw. The triangle wedges slide in to raise the rocker strip or slide out
to lower the rocker strip.

I got the plans form FWW IIRC. I can repost plans if you would like to see
them.

Found it on their site. Thanks.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article , "Leon" wrote:

"Mike O." wrote in message
.. .

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a
jointer.


That's why you rip them first.

Geez.... Do you also run your plywood panels through the jointer after
cutting them ?????

I somehow doubt that he leaves exposed plywood edges in his finished work.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote:
Damn, I wish one of these used jointers were in the Asheville, NC area!

Peter, I might be able to put you in touch with a really good jointer
(and other tools), in the Ashville area, for really cheap. Can I email
you directly?

Sonny

Thanks, I'll try to back track to locate this plan.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 02:03:46 GMT, wrote:


Do you have some detailed sketches of the your sled I would like to build
one.

Sorry, I don't.

Leon posted a full description a few messages back.

My original version was a simple MDF sled with framing shims (usually
found near the 2x's in home centers) and carpet tape holding
everything in place.

I think I found the drawing for the version I use, which is much
faster than shims and tape, in one of the books I've borrowed from the
library.

Here's a pay-per-view .pdf of one way to skin the cat:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24118

If you subscribe to FWW, online access is cheap. Otherwise, I'm sure
there might be another version on Google. These things are like
router mortise jigs, crosscut sleds, etc... in the respect that
they've been around for so long, there's been many variations of them
published.

I had not luck. I am missing quite a few post.
Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
TIA
wrote in message
...
Thanks, I'll try to back track to locate this plan.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 02:03:46 GMT, wrote:


Do you have some detailed sketches of the your sled I would like to build
one.

Sorry, I don't.

Leon posted a full description a few messages back.

My original version was a simple MDF sled with framing shims (usually
found near the 2x's in home centers) and carpet tape holding
everything in place.

I think I found the drawing for the version I use, which is much
faster than shims and tape, in one of the books I've borrowed from the
library.

Here's a pay-per-view .pdf of one way to skin the cat:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24118

If you subscribe to FWW, online access is cheap. Otherwise, I'm sure
there might be another version on Google. These things are like
router mortise jigs, crosscut sleds, etc... in the respect that
they've been around for so long, there's been many variations of them
published.

"Mike O." wrote in message

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a
jointer.


That's why you rip them first.

My experience is that in 35+years of cabinet making I've never found it
necessary to use a jointer to "clean up the edges" of any sawcuts I've made
when dimensioning stock for a project ... and particularly those made when
dimensioning stock for "rails and stiles".

With my always "batch cut" rails and stiles, I prefer that there be no
further "dimensioning" of my carefully ripped to width stock, no matter how
small, that would result from running them unnecessarily over a jointer.

And my Freud Glue-Line rip blade will consistently leave as good as edge
as
is necessary for any woodworking endeavor, if for some reason I feel my
Forrest WWII won't suffice.

But, if you wipe a wet finger across that edge you will find the
remnants of hairline kerf marks. At some point in your building
process I'm sure you address those.

But, I believe that you should try to keep your fingers out of your mouth in
the shop.

Your mileage may obviously vary ...

Obviously, it does.:-)

Probably due to the fact that my holy grail/focus when cabinet making is
"square", not stock free of "hairline kerf marks".

I might suggest that not that long ago, before we had the quality of
blades we have today, every rail and stile made was either run through
a joiner to remove kerf marks or attacked by a hand plane.

You may suggest, but before I'd take it as gospel I'd prefer to see your
qualifications for making the assertion?

Another thing to note is that in any cabinet manufacturing facility
that I've been through, sawed edges are addressed in some similar
manner. While rails and stiles are cut with a computerized saw, the
material edges are cleaned up in some way prior to assembly by either
a big automated joiner or planer or some type of sander. A sawed edge
is never the final edge.

To that, I'd say that you need to get out to a few more cabinet shops.

IMO the joiner is used less and less because people are afraid to use
it, don't know how to use it and/or don't know how to set one up.
While today's blades may (for some) eliminate the need to join edges,
the process has been done since the first block plane and then when
some guy figured out how to get the blade from his plane spinning fast
enough, it was done with a joiner.
Some of us are still doing it.

I will take that as stated ... and opinion to which you are certainly
entitled, and nothing more. My opinion is that it is not the case.

... 'nuff said.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

Mike O. wrote:
BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will.


My Powermatic joiner is properly set up with the knife height set with
Ed Bennetts TS-Aligner Jr. My blades are sharp, but I still get a
scalloped edge that requires much more sanding to clean up than the cut
left by my Freud Glue Line Rip blade on my tablesaw. I won't argue
that a hand plane leaves a smoother edge than either. I much prefer
using the cut edge from the table saw than a jointed edge. I still use
my jointer to give me a reference edge to go against the saw fence, but
I usually end up ripping that edge away before I'm done.

DonkeyHody
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there." - Will Rogers

wrote in message
...
I had not luck. I am missing quite a few post.
Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
TIA

You're just making a flat bottom so you can get a parallel top. In the
simplest form it's a piece of plywood with the low spots on the board
shimmed and hot-glued for the first couple of light passes. Use your
eyeball or winding sticks to get the best fit and have at it.

Helps if you have good metal serrated infeed rollers. Some of us just hot
glue shims to the high spots to stabilize and run it that way. With the
serrated infeed and a set of bed rollers you can feed with almost no
downward pressure.

In article , "Swingman" wrote:
"Mike O." wrote in message

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a
jointer.


That's why you rip them first.

My experience is that in 35+years of cabinet making I've never found it
necessary to use a jointer to "clean up the edges" of any sawcuts I've made
when dimensioning stock for a project ... and particularly those made when
dimensioning stock for "rails and stiles".

Agree completely -- if any cleaning up is needed, the first thing to do is
check for problems at the table saw, e.g. misalignment, damaged blade, etc.

With my always "batch cut" rails and stiles, I prefer that there be no
further "dimensioning" of my carefully ripped to width stock, no matter how
small, that would result from running them unnecessarily over a jointer.

And any cleanup that might be needed should be done, not with a jointer, but
by ganging half a dozen pieces on edge through the *planer*.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

But, I believe that you should try to keep your fingers out of your mouth
in
the shop.

:~) This is mean but I am almost ROTFLMAO. Sorry Mike but while you
probably do get the results that you are looking for you may one day learn
that you can do way better than that when you learn to set your TS up
correctly. The jointer IS NOT a dimensioning tool.

"Leon" wrote in message


"Swingman" wrote in message

But, I believe that you should try to keep your fingers out of your
mouth
in
the shop.

:~) This is mean but I am almost ROTFLMAO.

It was meant as a joke ... I inadvertently left off the smiley!!

Sorry bout that, Mike ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06

Thanks,
I appreciate the information. That hot-glue works good. I had my mind set
on a sled for a jointer. With this type of sled it should work good using
the thickness planer.

"George" wrote in message
t...

wrote in message
...
I had not luck. I am missing quite a few post.
Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
TIA

You're just making a flat bottom so you can get a parallel top. In the
simplest form it's a piece of plywood with the low spots on the board
shimmed and hot-glued for the first couple of light passes. Use your
eyeball or winding sticks to get the best fit and have at it.

Helps if you have good metal serrated infeed rollers. Some of us just hot
glue shims to the high spots to stabilize and run it that way. With the
serrated infeed and a set of bed rollers you can feed with almost no
downward pressure.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...


It was meant as a joke ... I inadvertently left off the smiley!!

Sorry bout that, Mike ...


Yeah Mike, I am sorry too, I meant to say that it was mean of me to laugh
not what Swingman said was mean, just humorous. I find my fingers in my
mouth quite often when using a hammer. :~)

On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 04:31:33 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

Geez.... Do you also run your plywood panels through the jointer after
cutting them ?????

No but plywood edges are not a finished edge nor an edge to be
finished.

Mike O

On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 16:00:27 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

:~) This is mean but I am almost ROTFLMAO. Sorry Mike but while you
probably do get the results that you are looking for you may one day learn
that you can do way better than that when you learn to set your TS up
correctly. The jointer IS NOT a dimensioning tool.

I've set up quite a number of table saws thank you and quite a few
joiners. I also know that my joiner knives leave fewer kerf marks
than my table saw.:-)
If you believe that the results you get with your table saw alone are
better than with the use of a joiner, I'll believe you.

Mike O.

On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 13:34:17 -0500, (J T)
wrote:

Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 9:16am (EST-1) (George*Max) doth
query:
Did you read my whole message?
I quote: "or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other contraptions
snip

Yep, read it. Except, I consider a planer sled a basic accessory,
and not a clever jig, or contraption.



JOAT
I am, therefore I think.


O.K., works for you. It'll probably work for anyone. Even me.

After 20 years of dorking around with wood, I still haven't found a
need. Yet. I just think it's pretty time consuming. I already waste
a lot of time on other things.

What I use is a DJ-20 and a DeWalt 12" (?) planer. Big stuff goes to
Kettle Moraine hardwood to go through their thickness sander, but only
when it's already close to finished size.

Sun, Dec 10, 2006, 1:25am (EST+5)
(George*Max) doth sayeth:
O.K., works for you. It'll probably work for anyone. Even me.
After 20 years of dorking around with wood, I still haven't found a
need. Yet. I just think it's pretty time consuming. I already waste a
lot of time on other things. snip

Yup, works for me. Probably work for anyone - IF they wanted to do
it that way. But that's up to them. If I was doing this for a living
I'd be doing a LOT of things different. Probably still do a few the
same, but most not. However, I don't pay my bills that way, so I don't
ve to be very efficient, if I don't want to be, and definitely don't
have to work under a time constraint. So, if I take 15 minutes to do
something my way, when I could do it in 5 another way, I'll probably
stick with my way - because I like to. It's a hobby. I don't have to
work fast, or efficiently - can't work too fast any more anyway, bad
joints. However, I spent a lot of time as a kid helping my grandfather.
Most people nowadays would call him a master carpenter - and a Hell of a
lot better than Norm he was - but correctly he was a journeyman. He
made some outstanding stuff, with just a tablesaw and some hand tools,
and I picked up a lot from him. I could be a lot more efficient if I
wanted to, but by the time I figure out just what type of a jig I need,
and just how I want it done, then to actually do it, I've usually wasted
more time then I've saved. But that's part of the fun.



JOAT
I am, therefore I think.