Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 30
Default Jointer or planer?

Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 395
Default Jointer or planer?

On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, "
wrote:

Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


Kinda depends on your needs.
If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have
as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use
a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need
for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV.

Mike O.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 19
Default Jointer or planer?

wrote:

wrote:
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


I bought a planer because it's possible to use it as a jointer, and
it's possible to use your table saw as a jointer, and it's possible to
joint yer wood with a hand plane. There's lots of ways to flatten a
board but not many ways to get all your stock to a precise thickness
with both surfaces parallel.

But it didn't take me long to really, REALLY want a good 8 inch
jointer. I got a lot of use out of the planer alone but it sure is a
joy having both. 400 is not a bad price for a planer but I think the
kind of jointer you'd get for that will give you more frustration than
help. I paid a little over 700 for my Griz G0586. They're about 800
now.
In a jointer, length of bed really matters.

If I had it to do over I'd still buy the planer first and force myself
to wait till I could afford a longbed jointer, or find one used.
Usually in hindsight I'd make changes but in that instance I still
think I did it right.


Agreed. You can pick up a decent DeWalt planer for around $400. I went the
cheap route with a jointer, and it pretty much sits and gathers (saw)dust.
I end up using my radial arm saw for any large jointing, and my router
table for any small work.

BTW, Craftsman 6 1/4" jointer for sale. $80 OBO. Lightly used. In Ft.
Worth, Texas.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
CW CW is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 926
Default Jointer or planer?

Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but thicknessing
is rather difficult without a planer.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!



  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 30
Default Jointer or planer?

Damn, I wish one of these used jointers were in the Asheville, NC area!
Mike O. wrote:
On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, "
wrote:

Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


Kinda depends on your needs.
If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have
as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use
a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need
for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV.

Mike O.


  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 199
Default Jointer or planer?

On 7 Dec 2006 19:21:11 -0800, "
wrote:

wrote:
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


I bought a planer because it's possible to use it as a jointer


Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer.

The two machines serve completely different functions. The two
machines have a kind of symbiotic relationship. A jointer makes one
surface of a board flat. The fence on the jointer is used to make one
of the edges adjacent to that flat face perpendicular to it. Various
adjustments to the tables and fence on a jointer can vary the results
from flat and perpendicular.

The reason a planer cannot joint is that the pressure of the feed
rollers can temporarily flatten the board so that it gets planed, but
the board returns to it's formerly cupped/twisted/warped original
shape after that pressure is relieved. Of course, if you're board is
"flat enough" or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other
contraptions to hold your board as it goes through the planer, you
*might* get away with making the surfaces flat and reasonably parallel
to each other.
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 30
Default Jointer or planer?

Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume
a hand planer would be one.
CW wrote:
Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but thicknessing
is rather difficult without a planer.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!




  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 71
Default Jointer or planer?

EE Gads, I just scanned down the list and there sure are a lot of opinions
as to which machine to buy. I don't know that there is any real consensus
of opinion! But one thing for sure.... There are lots of opinions!

Let us know what you summarize from it all and what you decide to purchase!

Don Dando


wrote in message
ups.com...
Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume
a hand planer would be one.
CW wrote:
Planer. There are many ways of jointing without a jointer but

thicknessing
is rather difficult without a planer.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!




  #16   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,375
Default Jointer or planer?

In article . com, " wrote:
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!

The best option is to save your money until you can buy both. Next best would
be to look at used equipment so you can buy both.

Here are the considerations:
1. A jointer cannot do the job of a thickness planer. Period.
2. With appropriate sleds or jigs, you can face joint with a planer. But it's
a lot easier with a jointer.
3. With appropriate sleds or jigs, you can edge joint with a table saw. But
it's a lot easier with a jointer.
4. The whole operation (face jointing, edge jointing, and thickness planing)
can be done with hand tools. But it's a lot easier with a jointer and a
planer.

The two work together: flatten a face with the jointer, then make the opposite
face parallel to it with the planer. Best to have both.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 59
Default Jointer or planer?

Planer.

The design feedom to use other than stadard-thickness components is huge in
my book.

Get a hand plane to knock off the high spots before planing.

Then save for the jointer... You will want one.

-Steve


wrote in message
ups.com...
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!



  #18   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


wrote in message
ups.com...
Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


Planer

I have had a jointer longer than a planer and have seriously considered on
several occasions of getting rid of the jointer to make more room.
Currently my jointer is more convenient to use than either of my planers or
my TS and choose to use it as a last resort.
With a very simple jig you can rip straight an edge on a board and with a
little more complicated jig plane flat a board on a planer.


  #19   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


"George Max" wrote in message
...

I bought a planer because it's possible to use it as a jointer




Wrong. It is *never* possible to use a planer as a jointer.


Wrong, tell that to the 200 BF of 8' long oak I have that was all rough cut
and not perfectly flat or straight.


The two machines serve completely different functions.


From the factory, yes. With a jig, no.


The fence on the jointer is used to make one of the edges adjacent to that
flat face perpendicular to it.

On long boards this is easier and faster on a TS with a jig.

Various
adjustments to the tables and fence on a jointer can vary the results
from flat and perpendicular.


True

The reason a planer cannot joint is that the pressure of the feed
rollers can temporarily flatten the board so that it gets planed, but
the board returns to it's formerly cupped/twisted/warped original
shape after that pressure is relieved. Of course, if you're board is
"flat enough" or you otherwise use any clever jigs or other
contraptions to hold your board as it goes through the planer, you
*might* get away with making the surfaces flat and reasonably parallel
to each other.


You mention flat enough. If your board is not "flat enough" you should not
even consider using a jointer to flatten it. There will simply be too much
waste. Better to rip the piece on a band saw to get rid of most of the cup
or cross cut to a shorter length to get rid of most of the bow.
The planer jigs work really well.




  #20   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


"Mike O." wrote in message
...
On 7 Dec 2006 18:31:33 -0800, "
wrote:

Which would you buy first if you could only buy one. Either of these
would be in the $400 range not the high end pro models, at least not
yet. Thanks!


Kinda depends on your needs.
If you buy all of your hardwood already surfaced then you may not have
as much need for a planer. If you do a lot of ripping you might use
a joiner to clean up your sawed edges. Personally, I have more need
for a joiner and would buy that first. YMMV.

Mike O.


Food for thought here.

A planer will allow different thickness stock that is not always available
at a reasonable price.
A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain
uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny
smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a
book on tuning up your TS.
23 years ago I was under the assumption that I should have the jointer
first. I am now on my second planer and the jointer pretty much sets
collecting just.




  #21   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


wrote in message
ups.com...
Can you enlighten a noob on some of these jointing methods. I'd assume
a hand planer would be one.



Flatten a board with a sled and a planer. The sled essentially compensates
for high spots from the bottom of the board so that the board does not
flatten out or rock when going under the in feed roller of the planer.
Once that surface is flat, flip the board over and run through with out the
sled.

To straighten the edge of a board build a long narrow, 14" or so, and 8'
long sled with 2 toggle clamps. The clamps should be screwed to the sled
for easy adjustment for different width boards. Rip this sled straight on
the TS and then clamp the board to be straightened on the blade side of the
jig with the curved edge hanging over the edge of the jig. Use the rip
fence to guide the sled and adjust it so that the blade side of the sled is
at the edge of the blade. Now run the sled and board through and cut the
curved board straight.
This is actually easier faster and easier than using a jointer.


  #22   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,339
Default Jointer or planer?

Leon wrote:

Once that surface is flat, flip the board over and run through with out the
sled.

Even with a jointer, the face need not be flat, it only needs full
contact on both sides of the board over the full length. The planer
can then flatten both sides and make them parallel as the board is
flipped. In the case of some really nice faces, I've not had enough
wood to make both sides completely flat, so the unfinished face is
oriented to where it won't show.

I've seen woodworkers face joint, face joint, and face joint some more,
until one part of the board is less than finished thickness, but the
other face hasn't been touched at all.
  #24   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 124
Default Jointer or planer?

On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:02:44 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


The fence on the jointer is used to make one of the edges adjacent to that
flat face perpendicular to it.

On long boards this is easier and faster on a TS with a jig.


I used to use an 8' straight edge and a router for that (long boards.)
Not since I got a serious jointer though.
  #25   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 395
Default Jointer or planer?

On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To maintain
uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a shiny
smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a
book on tuning up your TS.


I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon.
If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails
and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite
uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity. I have a good number of quality blades but would never
consider making face frames or doors without a joiner.

BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will.


Mike O.


  #26   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,043
Default Jointer or planer?

"Mike O." wrote in message

uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.


My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly tuned.

The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an
opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up
jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME.

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a jointer.


And my Freud Glue-Line rip blade will consistently leave as good as edge as
is necessary for any woodworking endeavor, if for some reason I feel my
Forrest WWII won't suffice.

Your mileage may obviously vary ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06


  #27   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer or planer?

This is oversimplifed but I believe it makes a point:

If you have only a planer, you will WISH you had a jointer.

If you have only a jointer, you will NEED a planer.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -
  #28   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,407
Default Jointer or planer?


"Swingman" wrote in message
news
"Mike O." wrote in message

uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.


My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly tuned.

The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip
an
opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up
jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME.


Learn to use your jointer. It removes, when properly used, the same amount
of material all along the length of the board. Its "fence" is the outfeed
table, remaining a constant distance above the infeed throughout, just as
your tablesaw blade remains a constant distance from that fence. Only
difference is the jointer is capable of taking out bow which might result
from new tensioning of the narrower board as well.

It's your woodworker's eye reading the board you're ripping that warns you
when it might be necessary to rip two passes oversize. Sometimes even
that's not enough.

  #29   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,043
Default Jointer or planer?


"George" wrote in message

"Swingman" wrote in message
news
"Mike O." wrote in message

uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.


My experience is entirely different ... and my jointer is properly

tuned.

The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to

rip
an
opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up
jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME.


Learn to use your jointer.


Look up above and learn to read.

It removes, when properly used, the same amount
of material all along the length of the board. Its "fence" is the outfeed
table, remaining a constant distance above the infeed throughout, just as
your tablesaw blade remains a constant distance from that fence. Only
difference is the jointer is capable of taking out bow which might result
from new tensioning of the narrower board as well.

It's your woodworker's eye reading the board you're ripping that warns you
when it might be necessary to rip two passes oversize. Sometimes even
that's not enough.


FACT: If you are attempting to use a jointer to obtain parallel edges/faces,
you are misusing the tool.

While you are not a big enough fool to argue that point, as above, you will
step to the edge of doing so even though you DO know better.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/29/06


  #31   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


"Mike O." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To
maintain
uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a
shiny
smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a
book on tuning up your TS.


I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon.
If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails
and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite
uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.


That is not an absolute. Unless you maintain "perfect" feed pressure the
edge begins going off parallel with the first pass, perhaps not enough that
you would consider unacceptable.

I have a good number of quality blades but would never
consider making face frames or doors without a joiner.

BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will.


The Forrest WWII on a well tuned saw will leace a surface that shines and
reflects like glass. That's what use.



  #34   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer or planer?



Quote :BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. Unquote"



Before having a 6" heavy jointer, I used a 10 inches, Ripping Hollow
Ground-planing blade.

This blade only works when your board is square with the blade, fence and
perfectly perpendicular to the table.

To accomplished that I used to secure the board with toggle clamps on a sled
and push it between the fence and blade.

Not the ideal solution but it did the work to build three solid wood bedroom
sets and dinner room.

Now I make use of top of the line ripping (Freud) blade, heavy jointer and
surface planer. This way I can go much faster.

FWIW


"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike O." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To
maintain
uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a
shiny
smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a
book on tuning up your TS.


I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon.
If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails
and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite
uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.


That is not an absolute. Unless you maintain "perfect" feed pressure the
edge begins going off parallel with the first pass, perhaps not enough
that you would consider unacceptable.

I have a good number of quality blades but would never
consider making face frames or doors without a joiner.

BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will.


The Forrest WWII on a well tuned saw will leace a surface that shines and
reflects like glass. That's what use.





  #35   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
J T J T is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,925
Default Jointer or planer?

Fri, Dec 8, 2006, 10:00pm (EST+5) (J.*Clarke)
doth asketh:
So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board?

Never timed it, but not long. If I'm only doing one piece, then I
have to put in some scrap, to take up the space, then use the clamps to
hold it all in place. If I'm doing several at the same time, to come
out the same, less scrap, same principle. Maybe a minute or less. If
you were wedging them in place, I would say a bit longer.

However, if they're rough stock, and I want to take off some off of
each edge, then flipping them, and re-tightening the clamps only takes a
few seconds. I have to do that reclaiming pallet wood, to get uniform
size pieces. Depending on how many pieces I have, I may run a batch
thru, taking just a bit off one edge. Then run a new batch thru, not
moving the cutters. Once the first batch is shmmed so they'll clamp,
it's only a few seconds putting a new bunch in, and adjusting the
cutters just a bit. Continue until all are done on one edge. Then
adjust the cutters slightlym then repeat, untill all the rough spots are
out. This will make all the pieces the same width. It's actually
pretty fast. If you don't care if the pieces are the same width, then
you can just do several pieces at a time, then more, until done.

I made my sleds at least 6" wide, but you could make one narrow
enough to hold just one or two pieces if you wanted.



JOAT
I am, therefore I think.



  #37   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer or planer?


I own a really good jointer. I still use a sled similar to Leon's to
flatten wide boards that I don't want to rip to 8" before I flatten
the face. Like any other woodworking jig, a planer sled is quick and
easy, once your mind is in the groove.

Do you have some detailed sketches of the your sled I would like to build
one.
TIA


"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On 8 Dec 2006 22:00:32 GMT, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

So how long does it take you to adjust your planer sled for each board?



FWIW...

I own a really good jointer. I still use a sled similar to Leon's to
flatten wide boards that I don't want to rip to 8" before I flatten
the face. Like any other woodworking jig, a planer sled is quick and
easy, once your mind is in the groove.

Don't use something often? Stay in the groove by keeping a notebook,
complete with sketches, and write the really important details right
on the jig with a Sharpie.

I'd buy a planer first, and save for a good 6"++ jointer as my next
tool.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Repeat after me to use clever jigs and advanced tools:

"I will keep notes, I will keep notes, I will..."

I have distinct notebooks for general notes (jig usage), tool setups,
tuning, and maintenance, sharpening, and finishing, (4 books, plus a
5th that sits in my HVLP case) and flip through them before I do
something I haven't done in a while. I also keep a rudimentary time
log for future estimating, but this is probably unnecessary if you
know you'll never, ever charge for a piece.

Above all, have fun. Art, music, and sports always come out better
when the participant is having fun.

Barry



  #38   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 22:58:02 +0000, Leon wrote:

What method does it use to support the curvature of the board so that you
get flattening?



There are about 8 or 9 even spaced rocker strips that the board actually
sets on and these set on the sled. The rocker strips use triangular wedges
that are dadoed in to each end and held in place by the very point of a
screw. The triangle wedges slide in to raise the rocker strip or slide out
to lower the rocker strip.

I got the plans form FWW IIRC. I can repost plans if you would like to see
them.


  #39   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 395
Default Jointer or planer?

On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 11:10:17 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:

The only way _I_ can guarantee that opposite edges are parallel is to rip an
opposite edge on a "properly tuned" table saw ... even the best set up
jointer simply will not guarantee that, IME.


The edges of your material should come off the joiner just as square
or out of square as they are ripped. The fence on the joiner is
inconsequential when cleaning up ripped edges. You could in fact
remove the fence entirely though it's not recommended. If your
tables are flat and parallel and blades are installed on the proper
plane you should be able to repeat the square ness of your rips very
accurately. If you rip your stock at 2 degrees out of square you
should be able to run it across your joiner (not using your fence) and
it will still be 2 degrees out of square. All your trying to do is
keep your stock flat on the tables.

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a jointer.


That's why you rip them first.

And my Freud Glue-Line rip blade will consistently leave as good as edge as
is necessary for any woodworking endeavor, if for some reason I feel my
Forrest WWII won't suffice.


But, if you wipe a wet finger across that edge you will find the
remnants of hairline kerf marks. At some point in your building
process I'm sure you address those.

Your mileage may obviously vary ...


Obviously, it does.:-)

I might suggest that not that long ago, before we had the quality of
blades we have today, every rail and stile made was either run through
a joiner to remove kerf marks or attacked by a hand plane.

Another thing to note is that in any cabinet manufacturing facility
that I've been through, sawed edges are addressed in some similar
manner. While rails and stiles are cut with a computerized saw, the
material edges are cleaned up in some way prior to assembly by either
a big automated joiner or planer or some type of sander. A sawed edge
is never the final edge.

IMO the joiner is used less and less because people are afraid to use
it, don't know how to use it and/or don't know how to set one up.
While today's blades may (for some) eliminate the need to join edges,
the process has been done since the first block plane and then when
some guy figured out how to get the blade from his plane spinning fast
enough, it was done with a joiner.
Some of us are still doing it.

Mike O.






  #40   Report Post  
Posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,035
Default Jointer or planer?


"Mike O." wrote in message
...

Besides, parallel edges/faces are not in the job description for a
jointer.


That's why you rip them first.


Geez.... Do you also run your plywood panels through the jointer after
cutting them ?????



Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Planer or jointer? CackleJack Woodworking 1 May 14th 06 06:24 PM
Jointer or Planer? Pop Woodworking 25 March 22nd 06 09:24 PM
8" jointer or a combo jointer/planer machine? [email protected] Woodworking 1 March 13th 05 06:31 AM
jointer as planer Michael Press Woodworking 9 February 19th 04 02:48 AM
Planer/Jointer Mark UK diy 10 December 22nd 03 11:49 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"