Because I got a bandsaw I figured if I got a chainsaw I could score a
bunch
of free semi-logs/ logettea / mini-logs I could slice up into future
small
box stock or maybe into some thick veneer. Did that.

Now that I've been playing with the JET mini and have a couple of Super
Nova2 chucks (drive By Neener) I've begun to play with plate and bowl
making. Why not cut up a few and make my own bowl blanks?

Well, if you've ever tried to bandsaw anything that doesn't have
at least one flat face, you know that bandsawing things that want
to rock and roll ain't a good idea. DUH!

So last week, at the monthly Santa Clara Valley Woodturners monthly
meeting, a very knowledgeable guy named John Brugo, did an hour
and a half presentation on chainsaws, and how to cut logs for bowl
blanks - and why use one method over another, along with a great
explanation about "reaction" / "reactive" wood and some things to
know on how to deal with it.

Did two pages - with illustrations of some of what I learned from him
and figured it might be of use to others. Having recently escaped
from Comcast as the ISP for my woodworking site, while rebuilding
my site on HyperSurf, I decided to put up some pages about what
I learned so others could get to it easier than jumping around news
groups to get the text AND the illustrations.

Here's the url (all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...insawing1.html

If you see any holes in the illustrations or accompanying text, or if
something isn't clear, please e-mail me and I'll try to fix it.

charlie b

"charlie b" wrote in message
...

Here's the url (all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...insawing1.html

If you see any holes in the illustrations or accompanying text, or if
something isn't clear, please e-mail me and I'll try to fix it.


Looks like standard methods to me. I slab mine near the ground between two
wedged logs rather than make something with nails I'll hit or decent wood
that I'll leave in the shavings. Easier on my back to roll the log and bend
to saw than heft the log and still have the weight of the saw to support
higher up.

I also own a scrub plane, so a flat surface is never far away, even if I
didn't get it right at the woodpile.

Thanks, good information and clear.

I like the design of the log support. I did hit a drywall screw in my last
one

Old Guy


"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Because I got a bandsaw I figured if I got a chainsaw I could score a
bunch
of free semi-logs/ logettea / mini-logs I could slice up into future
small
box stock or maybe into some thick veneer. Did that.

Now that I've been playing with the JET mini and have a couple of Super
Nova2 chucks (drive By Neener) I've begun to play with plate and bowl
making. Why not cut up a few and make my own bowl blanks?

Well, if you've ever tried to bandsaw anything that doesn't have
at least one flat face, you know that bandsawing things that want
to rock and roll ain't a good idea. DUH!

So last week, at the monthly Santa Clara Valley Woodturners monthly
meeting, a very knowledgeable guy named John Brugo, did an hour
and a half presentation on chainsaws, and how to cut logs for bowl
blanks - and why use one method over another, along with a great
explanation about "reaction" / "reactive" wood and some things to
know on how to deal with it.

Did two pages - with illustrations of some of what I learned from him
and figured it might be of use to others. Having recently escaped
from Comcast as the ISP for my woodworking site, while rebuilding
my site on HyperSurf, I decided to put up some pages about what
I learned so others could get to it easier than jumping around news
groups to get the text AND the illustrations.

Here's the url (all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...insawing1.html

If you see any holes in the illustrations or accompanying text, or if
something isn't clear, please e-mail me and I'll try to fix it.

charlie b

Thanks for the pics, nice and clear!
I guess I'm doing it all wrong but... When I try to chainsaw my way
through the log (length wise along the grain) it takes forever and
ever, the chain gets hot & dull real easy. When I resharpen the chain
(18") it flies through it only for an inch and it's back to snail
speed.
Do I have a cheapo chain? Am I doing it wrong? Whatever?
I just lucked onto a motherload of fresh kill maple and based on my
experience so far, despite the fact that it's maple, I'm tempted to
let it dry out for next year's fireplace season. Yeah, I know a crying
shame so I'd appreciate any and all suggestions.
By the way, there's more than I'd be using on the lathe myself so I'd
consider trades, offers...
Bart,
Hamilton, Ontario.
my current email address: http://haruteq.com/contact.htm

-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

"Bart V" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the pics, nice and clear!
I guess I'm doing it all wrong but... When I try to chainsaw my way
through the log (length wise along the grain) it takes forever and
ever, the chain gets hot & dull real easy. When I resharpen the chain
(18") it flies through it only for an inch and it's back to snail
speed.

Try this method. Mark the heart or where you'll want to cut on the far end
with a timber crayon or some chalk. Do the same on the near end. Notch the
far end lightly, then roll the bar back to make a full mark, ending up with
the bar at about a 15-20 degree up angle, cutting only on the near end on a
slant (\) . Keep the speed up as it goes in, so it'll clear the shavings.
When the far end of the bar is a bit beyond half way, or when you start to
bog down, lift the body of the saw up and cut from the opposite end toward
the middle slanting opposite (/). Tilt and saw your way down with
increasing angles, then take out the small amount left in the middle.

Other thing to remember is to have your chain taut, not slack as you begin.
If you start on the slack side of good, the heat you build up might expand
it into the range where it may tip and start cutting to one side.

Look at the 4th to last picture here
http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/logcutting.html to get an idea of how you can
minimize the amount of bar actually in the cut. Thought Darrell had a
similar picture, but can't find it right now.

For Charlie and for others who value their lathe and their arm, a couple of
suggestions.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...-balance-1.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...-Balance-2.jpg

It's not as if you were going to use the wood anyway, right? Why let it
hammer you and your bearings. Save that wear and tear for the times you
want something off-center or out of balance. BTW, it's hard maple, and you
can't ask for a nicer salad or popcorn bowl than maple.

I would also suggest that you get Bill Grumbine's first DVD. He also
shows how to cut up a log. One thing that I do is to mark parallel
lines on the log, one for the top of the bowl, and one for the bottom.
I mark on the end grain, and along the bark, and when you are just
starting to learn to use the chainsaw, I mark both ends of the log.
This does a lot to help the cuts go straight and parallel. This makes
it a lot easier to get a flat surface that is suitable for a bandsaw,
or to have a flat bottom to set the blank on so you can lop off the
corners. It is much easier to round off the blank if it has a flat
bottom. It is easiest to cut if the saw blade is longer than the blank.
I like to start the cut down the front side, then pivot the tip down as
far as it can go without hitting dirt, then finish the cut on the
front. This seems to give the cleanest and flattest cut. A small hand
axe can do some trim work.

As far as Bart's situation goes, I am puzzeled. If it is sharp, then it
shouldn't get dull that fast. You may be getting chips/shavings packed
up inside the saw. This happens a lot when cutting parallel to the
grain which is why it is better to cut at an angle. When cutting at an
angle you get smaller chips which eject easily, where the long shavings
can clog easily. This is more of a problem on smaller saws than on
bigger ones. My big Husky, even if it gets a bit clogged can push
shavings through, while the smaller electric one will bind up.

robo hippy
Bart V wrote:
Thanks for the pics, nice and clear!
I guess I'm doing it all wrong but... When I try to chainsaw my way
through the log (length wise along the grain) it takes forever and
ever, the chain gets hot & dull real easy. When I resharpen the chain
(18") it flies through it only for an inch and it's back to snail
speed.
Do I have a cheapo chain? Am I doing it wrong? Whatever?
I just lucked onto a motherload of fresh kill maple and based on my
experience so far, despite the fact that it's maple, I'm tempted to
let it dry out for next year's fireplace season. Yeah, I know a crying
shame so I'd appreciate any and all suggestions.
By the way, there's more than I'd be using on the lathe myself so I'd
consider trades, offers...
Bart,
Hamilton, Ontario.
my current email address: http://haruteq.com/contact.htm

-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

Bart
If you are having a chain go dull that quickly there could be one of a few
things happening, most of which involve too much heat build up.
(1) the most obvious cause is too much grit in the bark, usually caused by
small stones and other debris getting on the log when it was felled.
Brush the log and try again.
(2) a lack of lubrication on the bar will make it heat up and ruin both
chain and bar. Make sure the bar oil is the right consistency for the season
and that it is flowing well. If your bar allows for it, grease the tip
sprocket at every filling.
(3) make sure you cut through at an angle that allows the chips to clear,
about 60 degrees is right. The long shavings that are made with this type of
cut can clog the drive cog and cause heat and dullness.
(4) certain woods dull a chain faster than others. Cedar is notorious for
this. The boys I know who cut cedar for a living will sharper three times
more than the fellows who cut hardwoods.
hope this helps.
See a general procedure at http://aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml


--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

I haven't used the lathe a whole lot these days for lathing but this
load of maple sure got me in the mood.
Like usual, you folks are fabulous with your generous supply of
knowledgeable answers - thanks ever so much, you'll turn me into a
real woodworker yet ))
The question now of course, will my chainsaw get to that pile before
the snow does...
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

Thanks to all who added to this thread.

I was hoping this would generate more info on using a chainsaw,
preferably related to cutting up stuff for turning. Mr. Brugo
covered a lot more ground than contained in merely two pages
but I wasn't sure how much interest there was in the subject.

Like so much in woodworking, most books, videos, classes, etc.
assume that certain things are "common knowledge" and therefore
not worth mentioning. That probably worked well - when there was
an apprenticeship program in the trades. A newbie could observe
the journeyman or master and pick up that knowledge not specifically
told to him. Alas, most of us will never serve an apprenticeship
to pick up that necessary be never spelled out "common knowledge".

As a jewelry teacher I assumed that my students knew nothing
about jewelry making or lost wax casting. I told my students up
front that if I went over something they already knew, to not
take it that I assumed that they were ignorant or stupid, but
wanted to make sure they got what they needed to know. Many
folks are embarassed to ask what they believe to be a stupid
question. As a teacher, I told them that there was no such thing
as a stupid questions if you really wanted to know the answer and
that it was stupid not to ask, and keep asking, until you got the
info you needed in a way you could understand it.

So George, and any other very experienced folks out there -
what's obvious to you may not be obvious to someone else
with less experience and hard earned knowledge. Often it's
the little things that don't seem worth mentioning that can
mean the difference between success and failure, or even the
willingness to try.

If I post something that "everybody already knows" I'll do it
because I didn't know before, do now, and hope the info helps
the next newbie in line.

I came here from The Wreck (rec.woodworking) so I've got
pretty thick skin, Nomex suit and a sense of humor. I may
not always be right - but my intentions will always be good.

charlie b

Hi Bart

First off, like Darrell says dirt in the bark will dull the chain in a
blink of 'n eye, also if you hit the ground the chain is dull.

If I have to cut up a log with dirt on it I will take my one bar that
has a flat end on it (just like a screw driver) and I'll try to get a
strip of bark off, doesn't always work to easy though, but a brush does
help some to, cutting lengthwise through the bark first is also better
for the chain, rather than dragging the bark and dirt down through the
wood, not so much of a problem on the other side where you cut the bark
away from the wood.

Then I would recommend you get a spare chain, first it will give you an
idea how a sharp chain should saw and also if your chain gets dull you
can put on a fresh sharp chain and continue with the job, and then you
can sharpen the dull chain when you have the time to do a good job.

Also as you have sharpened the chain a few times, did you file down the
rakers some ??? if not that will also make your saw seems dull, as the
chains cutters being unable to get to the wood.

When you go to get an spare chain, I would advice you take the chain
along, helps for getting the right one.

With all the snow gone again you can cut a lot of wood before the next
flurries come around ;-))
Make sure you seal the ends of your blanks, and keep them out of the
sun and also out of the wind if possible, you could throw a tarp over
them, but then you have to watch for mildew and staining.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum30.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


Bart V wrote:
I haven't used the lathe a whole lot these days for lathing but this
load of maple sure got me in the mood.
Like usual, you folks are fabulous with your generous supply of
knowledgeable answers - thanks ever so much, you'll turn me into a
real woodworker yet ))
The question now of course, will my chainsaw get to that pile before
the snow does...
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Check my most up to date email address at:
www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
www.haruteq.com

Test Tickle wrote:

There are also different kinds of chain, just as there is more than
one kind of hand saw or bandsaw blade. You can get a chain designed
specifically for ripping. Most consumer saws are sold with "safety
chain," which really stinks for rip cuts. Better "pro" chains are
still designed for crosscutting, but will both crosscut and rip more
agressively than a safety chain. It's probably something else we can
blame on the product liability lawyers, but if you inquire at a store
that specializes in chainsaws they can probably hook you up with
something.

tt

The subject of chains was in John Brugo's presentation - the
"safety chain" noted - tooth link : depth of cut limiter link : tooth
link
and that they're the only type avialable from The Borg, in it's many
manifistations. At stores that sell mainly to the professionals,
you can get a range of other chains - and bars - for more aggressive
cutting ie. tooth link: plain link: tooth link and even tooth
link:
TWO plain links: tooth link ( is it plain or plane?).

I know Stihl makes a special rip chain and bar - narrower
kerf and thinner bar - don't recall if the chain is "safety" or not
but I can go look at mine if someone's really interested.

While the "non safety" chains cut more aggressively, they're often
also harder to control and can bang your hands up more in many
cases.

So damn much stuff to be aware of, so much stuff to learn.

charlie b

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
So George, and any other very experienced folks out there -
what's obvious to you may not be obvious to someone else
with less experience and hard earned knowledge. Often it's
the little things that don't seem worth mentioning that can
mean the difference between success and failure, or even the
willingness to try.



You ask for comments then come with this attitude? Saying it looks like a
standard way is support, validation that there's nothing so horrible or
dangerous as to disqualify it. Also nothing terribly different from any of a
half-dozen other sites bookmarked on this box showing the same, but that's
because _it's pretty much standard_.

I mentioned my back and how I prefer to baby it by bending not lifting, then
I mentioned the use of a particular tool to get a quick and safe level
surface for sawing. I guess those don't qualify as the little things that
don't seem worthwhile? Sheesh!

wrote in message
ups.com...
If I have to cut up a log with dirt on it I will take my one bar that
has a flat end on it (just like a screw driver) and I'll try to get a
strip of bark off, doesn't always work to easy though, but a brush does
help some to, cutting lengthwise through the bark first is also better
for the chain, rather than dragging the bark and dirt down through the
wood, not so much of a problem on the other side where you cut the bark
away from the wood.


The woodsman's mnemonic is "cut _to_ dirt, not _through_ dirt." Easier when
crosscutting than ripping, since you just put the dirt on the side closest
to you. Ripping is where you've selected for figure already, so you are
through rolling the log, so that's why I advocate the notch at the far end
to stabilize and then lowering the bar in an arc to make the initial mark
through the bark from the inside out, as it were. It keeps you cutting to
rather than through.

Chisel chain is better than safety chain for ripping, and skip-tooth is
splendid, while perhaps a bit rougher on the crosscut. A full rip chain
doesn't crosscut worth a darn, so unless you have two saws or are cutting a
bunch of blanks and can justify the chain change, I'd stick with the chisel
as the best all-round and most easily available. I think these are the
standard terms for what Charlie was dancing around with his descriptions.
For specifics it really gets complicated.
http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/types.html

You really want to see an OSHA nightmare, you want to look at the
piececutters chains. They take the rakers right down to the links. Takes a
strong saw and a strong fool to handle, but it crosscuts like mad where time
is money.

In article ,
charlie b wrote:
Did two pages - with illustrations of some of what I learned from him
and figured it might be of use to others. Having recently escaped
from Comcast as the ISP for my woodworking site, while rebuilding
my site on HyperSurf, I decided to put up some pages about what
I learned so others could get to it easier than jumping around news
groups to get the text AND the illustrations.

Here's the url (all one line so watch the line wrap)

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...insawing1.html

Charlie, I'd like to use your chainsawing and tension wood pages in our
chapter newsletter. Do you mind? If not, I'll certainly make sure you
get a pdf copy of the issue.

Also, would you have the non-gif files available? I'd like to use
smoother text than what appears in the gif image files.

I also want to be sure you get proper credit - just email me your
non-group name if/when you email the files. My address is
onlnlowe/verizon.net (replace the / with @ and it should be good to go).

Thanks, Owen

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe, warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your finger. A pic for the strong of stomach: www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for finished smoothness.

Also, would you have the non-gif files available? I'd like to use
smoother text than what appears in the gif image files.

How about putting the text as text - and large enough to be readable. We
don't all have eyes of a 20 year old.




--
Mike Vore
http://www.OhMyWoodness.com
http://mike.vorefamily.net/twr

Bart V wrote:
Thanks for the pics, nice and clear!
I guess I'm doing it all wrong but... When I try to chainsaw my way
through the log (length wise along the grain) it takes forever and


I am the opposite of an expert, but I have found that taking the log
and laying it down like a hotdog and ripping it that way produced nice
long shavings and went way faster. Something about going across that
grain takes about 10 years to complete and a chain to sharpen.

Rob