Hello:

Have just bought a gas powered chainsaw to try and cut up a tree trunk that
fell in my yard.
Not that large, but too much for a hand saw.

Have never used a chain saw before. Frankly, it scares the heck out of me;
not looking forward to using it.

Anyway, have this question:

It's been raining a bit here.
Should the trunk be "totally" dry before trying to cut it up, or, as the
rain water probably never
penetrates more than an inch or so, I would expect, it really doesn't matter
?

Or, does it ?

Would there be more chance of a "kickback" if wet ?

What should I probably be asking ?

Any hints would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Robert,
If you've never used a chainsaw before and you are afraid of it,
you are scaring me too. Have a healthy respect for equipment, do
not be afraid of it. Always keep a firm grip on the saw, you need
to control it, not allow it be in control.

If you have limited saw experience, make sure that the piece that
is being cut off can fall to the ground. This may require
rolling, blocking, raising the limb and resting it on a piece of
log or other solid material. Be very cautious and keep a firm
grip if you are cutting off small branches and off-shoots. They
should be removed before sawing the main log.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Have just bought a gas powered chainsaw to try and cut up a tree
trunk that
fell in my yard.
Not that large, but too much for a hand saw.

Have never used a chain saw before. Frankly, it scares the heck
out of me;
not looking forward to using it.

Anyway, have this question:

It's been raining a bit here.
Should the trunk be "totally" dry before trying to cut it up,
or, as the
rain water probably never
penetrates more than an inch or so, I would expect, it really
doesn't matter
?

Or, does it ?

Would there be more chance of a "kickback" if wet ?

What should I probably be asking ?

Any hints would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Good! Using a chainsaw should scare the heck out of you. But with proper
use, you can greatly reduce your risk of injury.

Just take your time. This is one thing where it is good to read all the
safety precautions in your instructuion manual.

I live in the Pacific Northwest where it rains, rains, rains. So I am
frequently cutting wet wood and doing so while it is raining. I don't have
any problems with this.

I hope you are not in a hurry to use your chainsaw and will take some time
to read some of the following...

Learning how to use a chainsaw...

The following are all excellent sources for learning how to use a chainsaw.

Common chainsaw injury locations on body - diagram.
(1/2 way down page)...
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logg...nal_equip.html

Stihl DVD: "Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance"...
http://www.stihlusa.com/knowhow/knowhow_lit_video.html

"Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" on-line book...
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

OSHA Logging eTool...
(Manual logging or mechanical logging)
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/mainpage.html

Book: "Professional Timber Falling" By Douglas Dent
http://onlinestore.forestindustry.co...tml?product=92

National Timber Harvesting and Transportation Safety Foundation
Logging Safety Web Site...
http://www.loggingsafety.com

The Game of Logging...
http://www.gameoflogging.com

Stihl Instruction Manuals...
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl...s_listing.html

Stihl - Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance...
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/Shar...61301final.pdf

"Robert11" wrote in message
It's been raining a bit here.
Should the trunk be "totally" dry before trying to cut it up, or, as the
rain water probably never
penetrates more than an inch or so, I would expect, it really doesn't
matter
?

I see you have already been directed tot he Stihl web site. That is a good
start.

Wet wood is not a problem, but wet ground can be. Be sue you have good
footing before you crank up the saw.

I have a small chainsaw, and it's not powerful enough to kick back at all.
The chain just jams. Of course, your experience may differ. But don't be
quite as scared of the chainsaw as these posters are suggesting. Use a
chainsaw in good working order with a sharp chain, keep your feet on the
ground, cut so the wood doesn't pinch the chain, and you'll do fine.
-B

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Have just bought a gas powered chainsaw to try and cut up a tree trunk
that
fell in my yard.
Not that large, but too much for a hand saw.

Have never used a chain saw before. Frankly, it scares the heck out of
me;
not looking forward to using it.

Anyway, have this question:

It's been raining a bit here.
Should the trunk be "totally" dry before trying to cut it up, or, as the
rain water probably never
penetrates more than an inch or so, I would expect, it really doesn't
matter
?

Or, does it ?

Would there be more chance of a "kickback" if wet ?

What should I probably be asking ?

Any hints would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

"Em" wrote in message

I have a small chainsaw, and it's not powerful enough to kick
back at all. The chain just jams.


What brand and model of chainsaw do you have?

"Em" wrote in message
m...

I have a small chainsaw, and it's not powerful enough to kick back at all.
The chain just jams. Of course, your experience may differ. But don't be
quite as scared of the chainsaw as these posters are suggesting. Use a
chainsaw in good working order with a sharp chain, keep your feet on the
ground, cut so the wood doesn't pinch the chain, and you'll do fine.
-B


If it's powerful enough to cut a log, it's powerful enough to kick back!

Pat

Any chainsaw will kick back. Kickback has nothing to do with power, it
has to do with how you use it. Most important aspects are good footing,
good grip and think about what you're doing before you do it. No
distractions.


--
hwm54112
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hwm54112's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=127
View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=60499

hwm54112 wrote:


Any chainsaw will kick back. Kickback has nothing to do with power, it
has to do with how you use it.

That's right. Kickback also varies with the bar profile, type of chain,
raker depth, etc.

On Sun, 6 Nov 2005 13:18:32 -0500, "Patrick Cleburne" mgcleburne@csa
wrote:

| "Em" wrote in message
| m...
|
| I have a small chainsaw, and it's not powerful enough to kick back at all.
| The chain just jams. Of course, your experience may differ. But don't be
| quite as scared of the chainsaw as these posters are suggesting. Use a
| chainsaw in good working order with a sharp chain, keep your feet on the
| ground, cut so the wood doesn't pinch the chain, and you'll do fine.
| -B
|
|
| If it's powerful enough to cut a log, it's powerful enough to kick back!
|
| Pat
|
|


Man, that is so true. I have a little Stihl and it wants to kick back
under certain situations. I've never cut myself (yet) but I did wrench
my shoulder so bad that it took around three years, three trips to the
orthopedist, and six visits to the acupuncturist to get it to stop
aching.

I bought a logger's helmet to wear when I use mine. It is a regular
hard hat with sound-blocking earmuffs attached to it and a face screen
that pulls down (it's a real screen, not a clear plastic shield so it
doesn't fog up). Looks REAL dorky, but it offers all kinds of face,
ear, and head protection, and because it's easy to put on you are
actually inclined to use it. I got it from Northern.

Of course, this does nothing for leg protection. You need some sort of
chaps for that. I finally bought some a few years ago, and I hate 'em
but I wear 'em.

I've used chain saws off and on since I was about 16 and the biggest
problem I have found with my own use is that if I don't watch out I
get too focused on the cutting and watching the blade work. This is
not good, and I have to constantly remind myself to look around and
keep alert for shifting limbs, brush and blade hazards, as well as
keeping a solid footing and position when cutting. You have to sort of
"set up" the cuts before you start them. Maybe it's just me, but I
find it's oddly easy -- too easy -- to zone out running the thing and
just slice away at whatever branch or log is within reach. Next thing
I know, the bar is pinched inside a big branch or trunk, and the saw
stops abruptly (if I'm lucky).

"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Have just bought a gas powered chainsaw to try and cut up a tree trunk
that
fell in my yard.
Not that large, but too much for a hand saw.

snip

If this is your only forseable use for a saw have you considered renting
one?
One other thought... by the time you but the saw and the safety gear you
just
might be able to have a neighbor do it for a lot less money and nicked up
shins.
OTOH, if you plan on owning a home and forsee the need for a saw you have
a wealth of info on this thread. I enjoy using my saw but I never lose
respect
for its capabilities to do the unexpected.

"Tom Miller" wrote in message
...
(snip)
.. Maybe it's just me, but I
find it's oddly easy -- too easy -- to zone out running the thing and
just slice away at whatever branch or log is within reach. Next thing
I know, the bar is pinched inside a big branch or trunk, and the saw
stops abruptly (if I'm lucky).

Chuckle- the 'Tim Taylor' syndrome- More Power! Can apply to any tool- I
just got a leaf blower, and ended up peeling back some sod trying to unstick
some old leaves.

aem sends...

Robert11 wrote:
Hello:

Have just bought a gas powered chainsaw to try and cut up a tree trunk that
fell in my yard.
Not that large, but too much for a hand saw.

Have never used a chain saw before. Frankly, it scares the heck out of me;
not looking forward to using it.

Anyway, have this question:

It's been raining a bit here.
Should the trunk be "totally" dry before trying to cut it up, or, as the
rain water probably never
penetrates more than an inch or so, I would expect, it really doesn't matter
?

Or, does it ?

Would there be more chance of a "kickback" if wet ?

What should I probably be asking ?

Any hints would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob






You don't say what size saw (inches of bar) and
the tree is not that big doesn't mean anything.
Not that big means less than 16" diameter to me.

Ok. Safety. Keep both hands on the saw at all
times one on the top handle and one on the back
handle (where the throttle trigger is. Of course
you can't start the saw that way so you put the
toe of one foot in the back handle when you pull
the rope.

Second. Never let go of the handles until the saw
stops and keep other people away. Nothing like
whipping around to look at somebody and cutting
their leg halfway off when you turn around.

Third. Keep the saw from binding. If you saw
down and both ends of the trunk are supported, the
trunk will move down at the saw cut and pinch the
saw, so make sure you have only one support.
Also, look at where the branches support the trunk
and figure out which way it is going to roll, or
put stuff so that it can't roll. Don't push down
hard on the saw, let it do the work. If the saw
starts to slow down pull it up out of the cut. If
you do get a bind, turn the saw off. Then figure
out how to pry the trunk up under the cut so you
can pull the saw out. If the saw starts to fall
out, let it. That chain is sharp and will cut you
if you try to grab it and get the blade.

Fourth. Cut the dam branches away one at a time
and move them out of the way. Watch out for
branches that support the trunk and cut them last.

Fifth. When you have that chainsaw going, it is
the most important thing. You should not give a
**** about the telephone, the wife hollering,
friends arriving, the dog barking,etc until you
shut the saw off and put it on the ground.


Answers. wet and dry don't make any difference.
but green wood cuts easier.

Chainsaws don't kickback unless you cut with the
tip (don't try this until you get a lot of
experience. In fact they don't really kick back
they kick up in the air, that's why you must keep
a hand on the top handle so you can control it.
If you don't cut with the tip, you won't have any
problem.

I've never had an accident, came close a couple of
times when I was tired, so if you get tired stop
and rest.

Good luck.

I'm not the most experienced guy, but like you I was nervous before I
started using a chainsaw and read a lot of posts and read the manual,
etc. I have a small electric polesaw.

One thing you should keep in mind is to use the saw in such a way that
if it DOES kick back, you won't be in the way. IOW, have your head
somewhere other than where the saw could conceivably kick. That will
give you more of a sense of being safe. I personally doubt that a little
wetness in the wood means you can't saw it.

Keep your wits about you and pay full attention to what you are doing at
all times when using a chainsaw. I believe that most chainsaw accidents
happen because the user got careless and wasn't thinking about what they
were doing. Like most other things, you will gain confidence as you do
it. However, don't let that lull you to sleep with complacency.

Dan

"Dan_Musicant" wrote in message

...One thing you should keep in mind is to use the saw in such
a way that if it DOES kick back, you won't be in the way...


Excellent advice. What I do is stand to left of the "plane" of the chainsaw
bar. When a kickback happens, the tip of the bar can go up into the air and
toward you. If you are not standing in the vertical path of where the bar
would go if it went straight up, then you are more likely to avoid injury.

Also I wrap my thumbs *under* the bar and handle when holding the chainsaw
and always hold the saw with both hands. Wrapping your thumbs under the
handles, especially your left hand, will protect your left hand from
slipping off the top bar in the event of a "push back". This is when the log
you are cutting closes at the top of the cut and binds the top portion of
the saw chain.

And while cutting, I stand with my legs spread apart for forward and
backward support. (So someone could push me or pull me from behind and I
would not fall forward or backward.) This is for a "pull-in" situation where
the bottom portion of the cut closes in on the chain and the saw then wants
to pull you forward. I don't want to be falling forward onto the chain.

Also I have my own "two foot minimum airspace" behind what I am cutting
rule. If there is a pile of logs to be cut, I remove a log from the pile and
place it so there is nothing but airspace behind that log for two feet. This
protects from accidental "kick-up" where the upper end of the bar
accidentally contacts a piece of wood behind the piece you are cutting and
the bar then flies up into the air. It also protects from a "combination
pull-in - kick-up" situation where the cut closes on the bottom of the
chain, the saw is pulled forward, then contacts a piece of wood behind what
you are cutting, then the bar flies up into the air.

Just understanding what can happen while cutting with a chainsaw (reactive
forces), then standing properly, and holding the saw properly, can go a long
way toward avoiding injury should a kickback happen.

Then advanced cutting is learning how to cut to keep the cut from closing on
the chain, keep logs from rolling over you, keep limbs under tension from
flying up and hitting you, etc. Here is some info on this...

Felling and Bucking Techniques for Woodland Owners...
http://www.survivalprimer.com/Homest...g_&Bucking.pdf

On Sun, 06 Nov 2005 23:02:15 GMT, "ameijers"
wrote:

|
| "Tom Miller" wrote in message
| ...
| (snip)
| . Maybe it's just me, but I
| find it's oddly easy -- too easy -- to zone out running the thing and
| just slice away at whatever branch or log is within reach. Next thing
| I know, the bar is pinched inside a big branch or trunk, and the saw
| stops abruptly (if I'm lucky).
|
| Chuckle- the 'Tim Taylor' syndrome- More Power! Can apply to any tool- I
| just got a leaf blower, and ended up peeling back some sod trying to unstick
| some old leaves.
|
| aem sends...
|

Hee hee. It gets worse as you get older, by the way.

Every now and again, glance at the tip of the bar. The tip should not be
touching anything.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"hwm54112" wrote in message
...

Any chainsaw will kick back. Kickback has nothing to do with power, it
has to do with how you use it. Most important aspects are good footing,
good grip and think about what you're doing before you do it. No
distractions.


--
hwm54112
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hwm54112's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=127
View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=60499

Lets hope you are right handed. The bar is on the right side of the saw. The
safe usage is to keep the bar as far to the right as you comfortably can.
So, if the saw kicks back it goes over your right shoulder, instead of
through your head.

I've seen guys with the blade right in line with their face. DUMB!!!

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Dan_Musicant" wrote in message
...
I'm not the most experienced guy, but like you I was nervous before I
started using a chainsaw and read a lot of posts and read the manual,
etc. I have a small electric polesaw.

One thing you should keep in mind is to use the saw in such a way that
if it DOES kick back, you won't be in the way. IOW, have your head
somewhere other than where the saw could conceivably kick. That will
give you more of a sense of being safe. I personally doubt that a little
wetness in the wood means you can't saw it.

Keep your wits about you and pay full attention to what you are doing at
all times when using a chainsaw. I believe that most chainsaw accidents
happen because the user got careless and wasn't thinking about what they
were doing. Like most other things, you will gain confidence as you do
it. However, don't let that lull you to sleep with complacency.

Dan