Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face of the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up the wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and a standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will be 40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is to cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

John Miller

In article ,
John Miller wrote:

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

Might have been me (asking about bar shower fittings)... I didn't find
anything in screwfix but had something in BES pointed out to me - I am
unable to run the pipes up to the bar behind any panel - they have to
be on the surface, so I have a right angled widget which has 15mm
compression into the 1/2" female BSP. It will make it stand a bit further
out, but that won't really be a problem for me.

Gordon

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face of the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up the wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and a standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will be 40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is to cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

John Miller



How about your (AKA with the compression nut removed and then screwed into
15mm compression fittings have a 1/2" BSP thread, so how about removing the
nut from a FI coupler (Screwfix 12341 or what I think you are calling a
straight BSP connector ) and screwing it into a wall plate elbow (screwfix
17416) fixed to the solid wall. Haven't got the bits to hand right now to
check but I think the distance is approximately correct and the wall plate
could always be packed out from or chased into the solid wall to tweak the
level. If you use enormous quantities of PTFE tape between the two bits,
you can make a watertight seal by screwing the fitting only partially into
the wall plate, just as you would with a bib tap in order to get it
vertically aligned - this would give a further adjustment.

HTH
Adrian

Sorry, bit of an untidy post - correction below......


"Adrian Berry" wrote in message
...

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face of the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up the wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and a standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will be 40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is to cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

John Miller



15mm compression fittings have a 1/2" BSP thread, so how about removing the
nut from a FI coupler (Screwfix 12341 or what I think you are calling a
straight BSP connector ) and screwing it into a wall plate elbow (screwfix
17416) fixed to the solid wall. Haven't got the bits to hand right now to
check but I think the distance is approximately correct and the wall plate
could always be packed out from or chased into the solid wall to tweak the
level. If you use enormous quantities of PTFE tape between the two bits,
you can make a watertight seal by screwing the fitting only partially into
the wall plate, just as you would with a bib tap in order to get it
vertically aligned - this would give a further adjustment.

HTH
Adrian

"Adrian Berry" wrote in
message ...

Sorry, bit of an untidy post - correction below......


"Adrian Berry" wrote in
message
...

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower
mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face of
the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's
going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up the
wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow
fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and a
standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too
long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will be
40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any
suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is to
cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy
about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall
seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would
help?

John Miller



15mm compression fittings have a 1/2" BSP thread, so how about
removing the
nut from a FI coupler (Screwfix 12341 or what I think you are
calling a
straight BSP connector ) and screwing it into a wall plate elbow
(screwfix
17416) fixed to the solid wall. Haven't got the bits to hand
right now to
check but I think the distance is approximately correct and the
wall plate
could always be packed out from or chased into the solid wall to
tweak the
level. If you use enormous quantities of PTFE tape between the
two bits,
you can make a watertight seal by screwing the fitting only
partially into
the wall plate, just as you would with a bib tap in order to get
it
vertically aligned - this would give a further adjustment.

HTH
Adrian

Thanks Adrian

I did wonder whether the fittings might work as you suggest, but
didn't have any to experiment with. I'll get a wall plate and give
it a go. Incidentally, I emailed Screwfix about their fitting kit,
but they were unable to provide details and have referred me to
their supplier. I'm a bit surprised by that, but may give it a go.
Thanks again.

John Miller

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 00:47:18 GMT, "John Miller"
wrote:

I did wonder whether the fittings might work as you suggest, but
didn't have any to experiment with. I'll get a wall plate and give
it a go. Incidentally, I emailed Screwfix about their fitting kit,
but they were unable to provide details and have referred me to
their supplier. I'm a bit surprised by that, but may give it a go.

Hi,

Would one of these do?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=39697&id=15894

If not then annealling the copper pipe and using a pipe bending spring
might get a tighter turn than a soldered elbow would give.

Also give the manufacturer a call, they might have some good ideas.

cheers,
Pete.

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower
mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face of
the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's
going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up the
wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow
fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and a
standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too
long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will be
40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any
suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is to
cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy
about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall
seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would
help?

I've fitted a couple of Screwfix bar mixers which look similar though the
shower fitting is 3/4 BSP female. There was a 3/4 to 1/2inch cranked
adapter which was best discarded. Check out if a 22mm street elbow (BES
6851) plus solder to BSP male (BES 6836) is compact enough. Don't think you
can get less. A problem which you don't mention is that the bar fitting
relies on the pipe fixings for strength. You need to fix the pipes firmly
to the wall behing before plasterboarding in which case you can chase out
sufficient depth.

If the Triton shower really requires to be connected to a half inch BSP
female fitting as you say then I'm stumped how it can ever be tightened.

Alan

"John Miller" wrote in message
...

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

I'm guessing you mean Screwfix item 56419, right? Two components, one for
each 15mm pipe. I bought this a while ago to fix the wonky mixer valve a
builder left me with, and it does seem quite good although I have yet to
actually get round to fix it (on investigation I found further problems
which need sorting, ie seemingly the builder left me with such massive
access holes in the plasterboard below the tiles that I've nothing to attach
the fitting to!)

The chrome 'drums' in the picture unscrew to reveal a steel fitting beneath
with screw holes etc; and be warned that you need a massive spanner, of
about 2" across the flats, to fit these things; something Screwfix don't
mention when you buy it!

David

"Alan James" wrote in message
...

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower
mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to
be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face
of
the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's
going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up
the
wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow
fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and
a
standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too
long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will
be
40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any
suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is
to
cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy
about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar
mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't
recall
seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings
would
help?

I've fitted a couple of Screwfix bar mixers which look similar
though the
shower fitting is 3/4 BSP female. There was a 3/4 to 1/2inch
cranked
adapter which was best discarded. Check out if a 22mm street
elbow (BES
6851) plus solder to BSP male (BES 6836) is compact enough. Don't
think you
can get less. A problem which you don't mention is that the bar
fitting
relies on the pipe fixings for strength. You need to fix the
pipes firmly
to the wall behing before plasterboarding in which case you can
chase out
sufficient depth.

If the Triton shower really requires to be connected to a half
inch BSP
female fitting as you say then I'm stumped how it can ever be
tightened.

Alan

Alan
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't explain the fitting very well -
the Triton bar mixer has two of the cranked 3/4 to 1/2 connectors
and the 1/2 end screws into the FI fitting. I had thought about
discarding these, but wasn't sure whether the connecting 3/4 nuts
would go onto a 22mm fitting.

John Miller

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
"John Miller" wrote in message
...

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall
seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would
help?

I'm guessing you mean Screwfix item 56419, right? Two components,
one for
each 15mm pipe. I bought this a while ago to fix the wonky mixer
valve a
builder left me with, and it does seem quite good although I have
yet to
actually get round to fix it (on investigation I found further
problems
which need sorting, ie seemingly the builder left me with such
massive
access holes in the plasterboard below the tiles that I've nothing
to attach
the fitting to!)

The chrome 'drums' in the picture unscrew to reveal a steel
fitting beneath
with screw holes etc; and be warned that you need a massive
spanner, of
about 2" across the flats, to fit these things; something Screwfix
don't
mention when you buy it!

David

David

Thanks for the info, but I'm still not clear how these work. How do
they connect to the pipework - is that what the big spanner is for?
It also sounds as though they fix to the surface via the
screwholes - this would be OK as I can insert supporting woodwork
when I build attach the plasterboard, but it's not clear what is
behind the fitting and where the pipes attach. Perhaps you could
email me with further details?

John Miller

So I too have just bought a Triton Bar Shower - the Tyme model I think.
(bought it off Plumbworld)

I'd posted earlier about fitting it to the wall and running the pipes
externally as I am unable to chase the wall out (OK, I can, but last
time I did this in my house, for some electrickery cabling, I ended up
with dust everywhere and it took me all day to hack the channels out of
the f'ing hard granite they make houses out of on Dartmoor!)

First thing I was surprised about was just how heavy the unit is! It
must be almsot solid brass inside the chrome!

According the the instructions, it can be fitted to plasterboard and the
pipes run to it without any extra support for the pipes... Are you sure
you got all the bits? There is an extension pipe 3/4" BSP to 1/2" BSP which
screws into the bar (3/4" female on the bar with a round nut with flats
on it to tighten it)

The order of assembly is shower bar, conical collar thing, (gren washer),
long connector (3/4" to 1/2"), locking nut, metal flange, rubbery
sealing washer, (tiles), plasterboard, rubbery sealing washer, metal
flange locking nut. then you are left with a stub of 1/2" BSP threaded
on the outside, which you can connect an elbow to. I think you might be
thinking that Fig. 9 in the booklet shows the outlet of the 1/2" elbow
flush with the surface of the plasterboard, but read over the page to
fig. 10 and it will make it a lot clearer!

It also has these bent angled things, 3/4" one end, 1/2" the other to
let you adjust the width. (You shouldn't need them if you are drilling
new holes)

The manual I have for fitting it seems to indicate that all 3 bars in this
range have the same fitting - so I'm wondering if you are missing this
extension bar. It's shown in Fig. 7 on page 6 (where it shows you how the
filter and flow limiter fits into it) and figs. 10 and 11 on pages 7 & 8.

My problems is different and I thought I'd solved it with BES part
No. 7630 as suggested by another poster in another thread. Alas, I
didn't realise that the bar has female 3/4" BSP couplings. I could fit
the extension rods into the bar and them into this fitting, but that
would then leave it too far from the wall for my liking. (It's heavy!)

Now this irritates me, as I was originally going to buy the bar shower
from Screwfix and I had an exchange of emails with a screfix person about
this very problem and he was unable to suggest a solution... However,
more searching on the Screwfix site reveals part No. 51437.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...35415&id=51437

Which is exactly what I need! I can fix that to the wall with suitable
screws and plugs, then run my nice chrome pipes up to it and mount the
bar directly onto them. (I hope!!!)

Gordon

"John Miller" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
"John Miller" wrote in message
...

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

I'm guessing you mean Screwfix item 56419, right?

snip

Thanks for the info, but I'm still not clear how these work. How do
they connect to the pipework - is that what the big spanner is for?
It also sounds as though they fix to the surface via the
screwholes - this would be OK as I can insert supporting woodwork
when I build attach the plasterboard, but it's not clear what is
behind the fitting and where the pipes attach. Perhaps you could
email me with further details?

Ok... sorry, I know I wasn't too clear in my previous post but I was going
on memory since at the time the bits were actually upstairs in the bedroom
where SWMBO had gone to bed; I can just imagine the reaction if I'd woken
her up "cos some bloke on the internet wants details of some plumbing bits
I've got..."

I agree it's totally unclear from Screwfix's site how these things work; I'm
sure if they made it a bit clearer they'd sell a lot more of the things.
Having said that, you could always buy a set and return them as 'unsuitable'
if they are no good for you. Anyway, I've made a quick, rather crappy,
picture of the instructions which I've uploaded at http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j
and another, of the actual bits themselves (one pipe's worth) at
http://tinyurl.com/5duau. Hopefully these will explain adequately how it
works but if not get back to me (if need be I'll scan the instructions in
properly rather than using the camera).

Good luck!
David

Lobster wrote in message
...
"John Miller" wrote in message
...

"Lobster" wrote in message
news
"John Miller" wrote in message
...

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't recall seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings would help?

I'm guessing you mean Screwfix item 56419, right?

snip

Thanks for the info, but I'm still not clear how these work. How do
they connect to the pipework - is that what the big spanner is for?
It also sounds as though they fix to the surface via the
screwholes - this would be OK as I can insert supporting woodwork
when I build attach the plasterboard, but it's not clear what is
behind the fitting and where the pipes attach. Perhaps you could
email me with further details?

Ok... sorry, I know I wasn't too clear in my previous post but I was going
on memory since at the time the bits were actually upstairs in the bedroom
where SWMBO had gone to bed; I can just imagine the reaction if I'd woken
her up "cos some bloke on the internet wants details of some plumbing bits
I've got..."

I agree it's totally unclear from Screwfix's site how these things work;
I'm
sure if they made it a bit clearer they'd sell a lot more of the things.
Having said that, you could always buy a set and return them as
'unsuitable'
if they are no good for you. Anyway, I've made a quick, rather crappy,
picture of the instructions which I've uploaded at
http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j
and another, of the actual bits themselves (one pipe's worth) at
http://tinyurl.com/5duau. Hopefully these will explain adequately how it
works but if not get back to me (if need be I'll scan the instructions in
properly rather than using the camera).

Good luck!
David

David

Sorry to be a pain but I can't quite read the instructions. Tried zooming in
but words too distorted to read properly. It rather looks as though these
fittings may be the answer to my problem so I'd be really grateful if you
could clarify things a bit more.

John Miller
PS Sorry for the delay in replying, but my PC has just decided to to write
off the hard disk and I've had to borrow my son's PC to get back on-line
temporarily!

"John Miller" wrote in message
...

Lobster wrote in message
...

I agree it's totally unclear from Screwfix's site how these things work;
I'm
sure if they made it a bit clearer they'd sell a lot more of the things.
Having said that, you could always buy a set and return them as
'unsuitable'
if they are no good for you. Anyway, I've made a quick, rather crappy,
picture of the instructions which I've uploaded at
http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j
and another, of the actual bits themselves (one pipe's worth) at
http://tinyurl.com/5duau. Hopefully these will explain adequately how
it
works but if not get back to me (if need be I'll scan the instructions
in
properly rather than using the camera).

Sorry to be a pain but I can't quite read the instructions. Tried zooming
in
but words too distorted to read properly. It rather looks as though these
fittings may be the answer to my problem so I'd be really grateful if you
could clarify things a bit more.

OK, I've scanned it properly now and replaced the jpeg with a hi-res one at
the same URL (http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j)
Suggest you right-click on the link and save the jpg rather than view it in
your browser (it doesn't seem to want to work with mine).

HTH
David

Lobster wrote in message
...
"John Miller" wrote in message
...

Lobster wrote in message
...

I agree it's totally unclear from Screwfix's site how these things
work;
I'm
sure if they made it a bit clearer they'd sell a lot more of the
things.
Having said that, you could always buy a set and return them as
'unsuitable'
if they are no good for you. Anyway, I've made a quick, rather
crappy,
picture of the instructions which I've uploaded at
http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j
and another, of the actual bits themselves (one pipe's worth) at
http://tinyurl.com/5duau. Hopefully these will explain adequately how
it
works but if not get back to me (if need be I'll scan the instructions
in
properly rather than using the camera).

Sorry to be a pain but I can't quite read the instructions. Tried
zooming
in
but words too distorted to read properly. It rather looks as though
these
fittings may be the answer to my problem so I'd be really grateful if
you
could clarify things a bit more.

OK, I've scanned it properly now and replaced the jpeg with a hi-res one
at
the same URL (http://tinyurl.com/6ly9j)
Suggest you right-click on the link and save the jpg rather than view it
in
your browser (it doesn't seem to want to work with mine).

HTH
David

David

Many thanks for your trouble. It didn't work too well in my browser either
but the jpeg is clear enough and these fittings look as though they'll do
the job I want. It's quite a clever idea and it seems a pity that Screwfix
sell it but don't have a clue how it works. Not sure where I'll get a 47mm
spanner, though!

Thanks again

John Miller

"John Miller" wrote in message
...

Many thanks for your trouble. It didn't work too well in my browser either
but the jpeg is clear enough and these fittings look as though they'll do
the job I want. It's quite a clever idea and it seems a pity that
Screwfix
sell it but don't have a clue how it works. Not sure where I'll get a
47mm
spanner, though!

Mm, Screwfix don't sell them, that's for sure! But if you search the site
on "wrench" (as opposed to spanner) you'll find a number of adjustable items
which should work OK.

Good luck with it
David

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:26:20 GMT, "John Miller"
wrote:


"Alan James" wrote in message
...

"John Miller" wrote in message
...
Further to the bathroom renovation, I need to fit a shower
mixer
(Triton Aire bar type). The instructions call for it to
be
connected to a half inch BSP female fitting where the face
of
the
fitting is flush with the finished (tiled) surface. It's
going onto
a dry lined wall and I intend to run the supply pipes up
the
wall
from the floor. My problem is that a standard BSP elbow
fitting is
too short to reach through the plasterboard and tiles and
a
standard
soldered elbow plus straight BSP connector will be far too
long.
Approximate distance from solid wall to tiled surface will
be
40mm.
Anybody got any experience of this or could offer any
suggestions -
it must be a common problem. Only solution I can see is
to
cut the
plasterboard and tile over the gap, but I'm not very happy
about
doing this.

I note that Screwfix have a special fitting for bar
mixers -
somebody else asked about these recently, but I can't
recall
seeing
any replies. Does anybody know whether these fittings
would
help?

I've fitted a couple of Screwfix bar mixers which look similar
though the
shower fitting is 3/4 BSP female. There was a 3/4 to 1/2inch
cranked
adapter which was best discarded. Check out if a 22mm street
elbow (BES
6851) plus solder to BSP male (BES 6836) is compact enough. Don't
think you
can get less. A problem which you don't mention is that the bar
fitting
relies on the pipe fixings for strength. You need to fix the
pipes firmly
to the wall behing before plasterboarding in which case you can
chase out
sufficient depth.

If the Triton shower really requires to be connected to a half
inch BSP
female fitting as you say then I'm stumped how it can ever be
tightened.

Alan

Alan
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't explain the fitting very well -
the Triton bar mixer has two of the cranked 3/4 to 1/2 connectors
and the 1/2 end screws into the FI fitting. I had thought about
discarding these, but wasn't sure whether the connecting 3/4 nuts
would go onto a 22mm fitting.

John Miller



Does anyone actually know why these adapters are cranked?

Why not straight? I spent ages trying to get mine to line up so that
the bar mixer was level. Usually, one connector would tighten to, say
12 o'clock and the other to 6 o'clock, meaning a very wonky bar
indeed.

When I asked the manufacturer about this, they sent me some striaght
adapters, making it much easier to get level.

Rob


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:07:22 +0000 (UTC),
(Gordon Henderson) wrote:

So I too have just bought a Triton Bar Shower - the Tyme model I think.
(bought it off Plumbworld)

I'd posted earlier about fitting it to the wall and running the pipes
externally as I am unable to chase the wall out (OK, I can, but last
time I did this in my house, for some electrickery cabling, I ended up
with dust everywhere and it took me all day to hack the channels out of
the f'ing hard granite they make houses out of on Dartmoor!)

First thing I was surprised about was just how heavy the unit is! It
must be almsot solid brass inside the chrome!

According the the instructions, it can be fitted to plasterboard and the
pipes run to it without any extra support for the pipes... Are you sure
you got all the bits? There is an extension pipe 3/4" BSP to 1/2" BSP which
screws into the bar (3/4" female on the bar with a round nut with flats
on it to tighten it)

The order of assembly is shower bar, conical collar thing, (gren washer),
long connector (3/4" to 1/2"), locking nut, metal flange, rubbery
sealing washer, (tiles), plasterboard, rubbery sealing washer, metal
flange locking nut. then you are left with a stub of 1/2" BSP threaded
on the outside, which you can connect an elbow to. I think you might be
thinking that Fig. 9 in the booklet shows the outlet of the 1/2" elbow
flush with the surface of the plasterboard, but read over the page to
fig. 10 and it will make it a lot clearer!

It also has these bent angled things, 3/4" one end, 1/2" the other to
let you adjust the width. (You shouldn't need them if you are drilling
new holes)

The manual I have for fitting it seems to indicate that all 3 bars in this
range have the same fitting - so I'm wondering if you are missing this
extension bar. It's shown in Fig. 7 on page 6 (where it shows you how the
filter and flow limiter fits into it) and figs. 10 and 11 on pages 7 & 8.

My problems is different and I thought I'd solved it with BES part
No. 7630 as suggested by another poster in another thread. Alas, I
didn't realise that the bar has female 3/4" BSP couplings. I could fit
the extension rods into the bar and them into this fitting, but that
would then leave it too far from the wall for my liking. (It's heavy!)

Now this irritates me, as I was originally going to buy the bar shower
from Screwfix and I had an exchange of emails with a screfix person about
this very problem and he was unable to suggest a solution... However,
more searching on the Screwfix site reveals part No. 51437.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...35415&id=51437

Which is exactly what I need! I can fix that to the wall with suitable
screws and plugs, then run my nice chrome pipes up to it and mount the
bar directly onto them. (I hope!!!)

Gordon

And if you need a similar part that can be sunk into a chased out
wall, as I did, use a pair of (much cheaper) brass outside tap
connectors, like these:

http://tinyurl.com/4jryh

Worked a treat for me, connecting into the parts supplied.

Rob


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply

In article , Kalico wrote:
Does anyone actually know why these adapters are cranked?

Why not straight? I spent ages trying to get mine to line up so
that the bar mixer was level.

I think it's so that you can get the mixer bar level even if the wall
connections aren't - and if a different plumber did the first fix they
may not have worried too much about 1/8" discrepancy which it's
impossible to correct once the wall has been plastered and tiled.

To digress slightly, one housebuilder I came across in my BCO days
made carpenters put their initials on door linings - and he who fixed
the lining had to hang the door. Somehow the linings were always fixed
straight and true first time g

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 11:55:24 GMT, Tony Bryer
wrote:

In article , Kalico wrote:
Does anyone actually know why these adapters are cranked?

Why not straight? I spent ages trying to get mine to line up so
that the bar mixer was level.

I think it's so that you can get the mixer bar level even if the wall
connections aren't - and if a different plumber did the first fix they
may not have worried too much about 1/8" discrepancy which it's
impossible to correct once the wall has been plastered and tiled.

To digress slightly, one housebuilder I came across in my BCO days
made carpenters put their initials on door linings - and he who fixed
the lining had to hang the door. Somehow the linings were always fixed
straight and true first time g

Taking responsibility for your own work? Surely not!

What use will the manual of '1001 excuses and who to blame' be then?

Only kidding - I think that's a great idea.

Rob


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply