Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT
main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the
kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.

My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop W8.1

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but son's connection
remains poor.
--
Graeme

News wrote:

Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

First, I'd temporarily plug your machine, and your son's machine direct
into the router with a cat5, unplig the powerline stuff then do a
speedtest on each (not at same time, obv.) from there you have a better
idea of the speed you're aiming for on each machine, and whether son's
PC itself has a problem rather than the method of connection ...

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:41:02 +0100, News wrote:

Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT
main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the
kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.

My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop W8.1

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but son's connection
remains poor.

Are the homeplugs on the same ring main? I tried a pair for my smart tv
with one upstairs next to the router and one downstairs next to the tv and
got such slow speeds that iPlayer and YouTube were continuously pausing.
I think this is because the signals have to go through the consumer unit
via 2 MCBs. I gave up and ran a network cable in with no further problems.


--
TOJ.

In article ,
News wrote:

Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT
main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the
kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.

My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop W8.1

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but son's connection
remains poor.

The home wiring does affect things. If some home plugs are on different
circuits this might be why there is the problem. Short of rewiring then
house, I think a bit of CAT5 is going to be the answer.

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:41:02 +0100, News wrote:

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

Try your machine in his location, and (ideally) his machine in yours.
That'll show you if the problem is machine or connection.

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:41:02 +0100, News wrote:

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) ...
snip
I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router?

Is the right answer and for the feed to the AP in the kitchen. If
that is a WiFi Homeplug bin it and get a cheap AP. Aldi have (had..)
Miginon WLR-510 AP/Repeater/Client 2.4 and 5 GHz 802.11 a/bg/n "up
to" 300 Mbps plug top device marked down to £14. Or Tesco have
TP-Link TL-WR841N 2.4 GHz only AP/Router for £20. The TP-Link will
probably do a little better for range as it has external (but non
removeable) aerials but if you are in the same room as it that's
unlikely to be noticeable.

Wouldn't be at all surprised if the crap being put onto the mains
wiring and radiated from it is getting into the VDSL and stopping
that running at it's best as well.

--
Cheers
Dave.

En el artículo , News
escribió:

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

It's on a different ring.

Do the decent thing and run some Cat5 cable from the router upstairs.

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install more than
one access point, you know.

--
:: je suis Charlie :: yo soy Charlie :: ik ben Charlie ::

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 16:57:30 +0000 (UTC)
The Other John wrote:

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:41:02 +0100, News wrote:

Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles
to get 3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly
to BT main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug
in the kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect,
wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.

My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop
W8.1

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop
directly to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but
son's connection remains poor.

Are the homeplugs on the same ring main? I tried a pair for my smart
tv with one upstairs next to the router and one downstairs next to
the tv and got such slow speeds that iPlayer and YouTube were
continuously pausing. I think this is because the signals have to go
through the consumer unit via 2 MCBs. I gave up and ran a network
cable in with no further problems.



I can confirm that passing through a pair of CUs will seriously affect
the homeplug signal. Mine just won't work like that, but will work fine
if on the same CU. Similarly, some power extensions will block the
signal, I believe it's to do with the surge protectors built in to some
of them. Try plugging them directly into the socket in the wall.
Then get rid of the homeplugs anyway!

--
Davey.

In message , Andy
Burns writes
News wrote:

Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

First, I'd temporarily plug your machine, and your son's machine direct
into the router with a cat5, unplig the powerline stuff then do a
speedtest on each

Right Guys, you have all said the same thing. I do have more than
enough CAT5 cable, but only in two pieces. Yes, I have a joiner but can
I find it? Not a chance.

Plan B. Found a reel of phone cable, which enabled me to bring the
router down to his desktop. A bit of a bodge, but it works. Son's
speed immediately shot up to 44Mbps, hard wired to the router. Hard
wired Wifey's laptop, and she almost had an orgasm. 74Mbps. My little
Tosh shows 25Mbps, but that is probably because the other two are so
excited they're trying YouTube, games and all sorts.

So, the answer is obviously some hard wiring, or at the least move the
main BT socket downstairs, to be next to son's desktop. The good news
is I now know exactly what the problem is, and how to fix it.

Interestingly, the homeplugs are now all unplugged, and I have just
disconnected CAT5 from Wifey's laptop and my netbook, so we're both
picking up wireless direct from the router (which is now closer than it
used to be). My speed it 20, Wifey's is 36, but her laptop has always
picked up a better signal than my netbook. Assuming I can properly wire
the router where it is now, we may be able to live without the
homeplugs.

Thank you all, as ever :-)
--
Graeme

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 19:04:42 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install more than
one access point, you know.

Which is why I bought the Aldi WLR-510. It's probably wise to
manually set the channel(s) used when you have more than one AP so
they don't stomp on each other also bear in mind if one AP is
wireless n it needs two channels to achieve the "300 Mbps". I'm not
sure if the additional bandwidth has to be above the allocated
channel or not. Only channels 3, 6 & 11 don't mutally intefer. I'd
bung the main and wireless n cabable AP on ch 3 and secondary AP on
ch 11.

Set the SSIDs and passwords to be the same on both and it should be
transparent to the user that they change AP.

--
Cheers
Dave.

News formulated the question :

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls completely
bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT main socket, and
feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the kitchen, to which our
(self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another homeplug,
yet our downloads are far faster than his.

They work best, if they are on the same ring main, plus sometimes there
can be equipment plugged in which interferes with the signal or even
filters it out.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 19:04:42 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install more than
one access point, you know.

Which is why I bought the Aldi WLR-510. It's probably wise to
manually set the channel(s) used when you have more than one AP so
they don't stomp on each other also bear in mind if one AP is
wireless n it needs two channels to achieve the "300 Mbps". I'm not
sure if the additional bandwidth has to be above the allocated
channel or not. Only channels 3, 6 & 11 don't mutally intefer. I'd
bung the main and wireless n cabable AP on ch 3 and secondary AP on
ch 11.

I thought it was 1, 6 and 11 don't overlap.

--
Chris Green
·

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 5:41:35 PM UTC+1, News wrote:
Today is the day our high speed broadband went live. I got 44Mbps
earlier this morning, same for Wifey. Our son, though, struggles to get
3Mbps download - but 12Mbps upload, which seems odd.

We use homeplugs (yeah, I know) because solid, thick granite walls
completely bollix wireless signals. Router is connected directly to BT
main socket, and feeds a homeplug. There is another homeplug in the
kitchen, to which our (self and wife) laptops connect, wirelessly.

Son is in another room, and his desktop is hard wired to another
homeplug, yet our downloads are far faster than his.

My little Tosh netbook is W98, Wifey Tosh laptop W7 and son desktop W8.1

Why might son's download connection be so slow?

I suppose I could buy a long CAT5 cable and connect his desktop directly
to router? We have swapped the homeplugs around, but son's connection
remains poor.
--
Graeme

Home plugs are not very fast & the further away from the router plug the slower. CAT5 cable is very cheap and is a lot faster than either home plugs or wireless. CAT6 is not worth it for the home, unless you have a home cinema streaming off a NAS drive

On 30/04/15 13:30, zaax wrote:
Home plugs are not very fast & the further away from the router plug the slower.

CAT5 cable is very cheap and is a lot faster than either home plugs or wireless.


CAT6 is not worth it for the home, unless you have a home cinema streaming off a NAS drive
or might have in 5 years time

zaax wrote:

CAT6 is not worth it for the home, unless you
have a home cinema streaming off a NAS drive

Even if you have a 4K TV, cat5e with gigabit is still *way* faster than
you need for streaming (by a factor of about 30).

On Thu, 30 Apr 2015 10:15:49 +0100, wrote:

It's probably wise to manually set the channel(s) used when you
have
more than one AP so they don't stomp on each other also bear in
mind if
one AP is wireless n it needs two channels to achieve the "300
Mbps".
I'm not sure if the additional bandwidth has to be above the
allocated
channel or not. Only channels 3, 6 & 11 don't mutally intefer. I'd
bung the main and wireless n cabable AP on ch 3 and secondary AP
on
ch 11.

I thought it was 1, 6 and 11 don't overlap.

Well spoted that man. B-) I think I was getting confused by band
edges, one assumes that ch 1 center frequency is 10 MHz plus guard
band above the lower band edge.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install more than
one access point, you know.

Indeed, and I have at least two spare routers.

Thinking aloud here. There are various options. To summarise. BT main
socket is upstairs, connected directly to cable coming in from roof.
Router is plugged directly into BT main socket, and self and wife can
pick up an acceptable wi-fi signal everywhere downstairs. Son's desktop
needs a cable from router to PC.

1. Just buy a wireless dongle for son's desktop, and leave everything
else alone.

2. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and either hardwire son's desktop
directly, or install a second access point.

3. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and just move the original router
downstairs, and hardwire son's desktop, with self and wifey picking up
wi-fi.

4. Move the main (and only) BT socket downstairs, and move router with
it.

Which is best - extending the BT socket, or extending the CAT5? Or does
it make little practical difference to overall download speeds? I have
sufficient BT and CAT5 cable to do either.
--
Graeme

In article ,
News wrote:
In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install more than
one access point, you know.

Indeed, and I have at least two spare routers.

Thinking aloud here. There are various options. To summarise. BT main
socket is upstairs, connected directly to cable coming in from roof.
Router is plugged directly into BT main socket, and self and wife can
pick up an acceptable wi-fi signal everywhere downstairs. Son's desktop
needs a cable from router to PC.

1. Just buy a wireless dongle for son's desktop, and leave everything
else alone.

2. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and either hardwire son's desktop
directly, or install a second access point.

3. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and just move the original router
downstairs, and hardwire son's desktop, with self and wifey picking up
wi-fi.

4. Move the main (and only) BT socket downstairs, and move router with
it.

Which is best - extending the BT socket, or extending the CAT5? Or does
it make little practical difference to overall download speeds? I have
sufficient BT and CAT5 cable to do either.

You can't (or at least may not) move the BT socket.

The best solution, as installed here, is to run a CAT5 cable from an output
of the router to your son's room. It can, like mine, go outdoors if that
makes an easier cable run

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Fri, 1 May 2015 13:29:33 +0100, News wrote:

You say wireless is no good due to the walls - you can install
more
than one access point, you know.

Indeed, and I have at least two spare routers.

Router does not equate to Access Point. Though most domestic internet
boxes are "all in ones" containing a modem, a router, a network
switch and access point. Personally I don't like this, it's a single
point of failure at a key point of the system. And more often than
not the best place for he modem is not the best place for the Access
Point. But anyway...

4. Move the main (and only) BT socket downstairs, and move router with
it.

Not techinically legal and the [V|A]DSL signal is tiny and prone to
interference. I'd avoid runing the phone line through a relatively
electrically noisey place like a home. Keep modem on short as wire as
possible (make one up) next to the BT socket and run CAT5/ethernet
which is designed to work in noisey enviroments to a more convient
location for a small switch into which all the LAN wiring conects.

Which is best - extending the BT socket, or extending the CAT5?

Cat5 everytime.

Or does it make little practical difference to overall download speeds?

May or may not ... depends on the immediate electrical enviroment. If
you want to wring every last Mbps out of the connection one has to
take care. 5 Mbps missing from 50 is not such a big deal as 0.5 Mbps
from 3.

--
Cheers
Dave.

En el artículo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

To summarise. BT main
socket is upstairs, connected directly to cable coming in from roof.

I think I would be inclined to leave it there, for a number of reasons:

a) to avoid frigging with the BT side of things (you're not supposed to
touch the master socket apart from removing the lower half of the
faceplate to disconnect extension wiring and using the test socket),

b) to keep the analogue side of things (the BT line) as short as
possible and

c) the BT line and router are probably in a more interference-free
environment in the loft, being physically distanced from things like the
ring main, boiler, immersion, TV, electrical appliances, etc.

If you relocate it to within the house, you may introduce it to a more
electrically noisy environment with a consequent drop in ADSL
performance.

Router is plugged directly into BT main socket, and self and wife can
pick up an acceptable wi-fi signal everywhere downstairs

by 'downstairs', do you mean the floor immediately below the
loft/router?

. Son's desktop
needs a cable from router to PC.

1. Just buy a wireless dongle for son's desktop, and leave everything
else alone.

2. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and either hardwire son's desktop
directly, or install a second access point.

I'd do this. Hardwire it, but if you want to add more things in future
(e.g. a game console or smart TV), you can simply add a switch or a
wireless AP.

3. Extend the CAT5 downstairs, and just move the original router
downstairs, and hardwire son's desktop, with self and wifey picking up
wi-fi.

no, leave the BT stuff alone, then there's no comeback if a fault
develops with the line in future and the "engineer" takes exception to
your modifications

4. Move the main (and only) BT socket downstairs, and move router with
it.

as 3.

Which is best - extending the BT socket, or extending the CAT5?

The Cat5.

Or does
it make little practical difference to overall download speeds? I have
sufficient BT and CAT5 cable to do either.

You can use the Cat5 to extend the BT line if you want - its' spec
exceeds that of BT (CW1308) cable considerably. Use the same pair
colours (blue and blue/white) for consistency and avoid the temptation
to use the unused pairs for anything else such as extensions to avoid
crosstalk.

It would be best to keep the BT line as short as possible and avoid
running it through an electrically noisy environment. That means your
loft location is probably pretty much ideal. You can extend the
Ethernet from the router in the loft using Cat5 as much as you like with
no concerns about signal loss up to the maximum cable length of 100m.

Perhaps consider a Cat5 run from the router in the loft to a wireless AP
on the floor below, and another to an AP on the floor below that. That
should pretty much cover your needs.

--
:: je suis Charlie :: yo soy Charlie :: ik ben Charlie ::

On Thu, 30 Apr 2015 19:51:56 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

zaax wrote:

CAT6 is not worth it for the home, unless you have a home cinema
streaming off a NAS drive

Even if you have a 4K TV, cat5e with gigabit is still *way* faster than
you need for streaming (by a factor of about 30).

+1

Saves me having to make that point. :-)

Cat5 cable will support 100 and 1000 Mbps speed at line lengths ranging
from 1/2 metre to 100 metre. Extending the wiring for the master socket
will add to the line length between the cabinet and the router which can
impact maximum line speed to a greater or lesser degree[1].

Unless there's a significant saving in upheaval gained by relocating the
master socket, the better option will be to install extra cat5 cable
rather than move the BT master socket.

[1] Unless the extra line length being introduced is no more than about
10 metres or so, the additional line loss may shave a few percent off the
line speed. However, routing the line wiring those extra few metres
within the premises is likely to increase its exposure to sources of QRM
within the home which could have an even greater impact than the effect
of additional line loss.

--
Johnny B Good

In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)

Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it was
just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it in
there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring the
slave sockets.

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)
--
Graeme

On Fri, 1 May 2015 16:16:03 +0100, News wrote:

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Shouldn't do. Just buy a small network switch put it somewhere that
makes getting cables to it from the end points required as easy as
possible. The end points being the modem router, sons PC, your and
wifeys laptops and possibly an access point.

Just run a cable from each endpoint back to the switch and plug into
a free port, same for the cable from the modem/router. These days
switches and devices automatically sort themselves out, no need for
uplink ports or crossover cables.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)

You need more practice. Strip 1 1/2 to 2" of outer jacket off,
untwist each pair starting with orange, green, blue, brown and
flatten/position each wire into the correct order forming a dense,
flat and parallel set of wires fairly close to where they merge from
the jacket. Trim straight across just over 1/2" from the jacket
maintaining the formation. Slip into plug making sure that each wire
slides fully down the right hole, crimp.

Note that there are two types of plug or rather the IPC part. One is
designed for stranded (patch) cable the other for solid
(installation) cable.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modular...s_and_contacts

Not that I've had any problems with the stranded type on solid cable.
But these are all connections that once pluged in stay that way for
months if not years.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Fri, 01 May 2015 16:16:03 +0100, News wrote:

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end --

I shouldn't. Use solid core CAT5, and terminate in sockets (which is
easy).

Then use pre-made patch cables.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £0 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article ,
News wrote:
In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)

Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it was
just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it in
there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring the
slave sockets.

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)

Don't put plugs on . Terminate the cable in a wall socket. Then run a
short pre-made lead to the socket. Much easier and more flexible for then
future.

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

En el artículo o.uk,
Dave Liquorice escribió:

[good advice]

some more tips:

You need more practice. Strip 1 1/2 to 2" of outer jacket off,
untwist each pair starting with orange, green, blue, brown

You do _not_ wire the plugs simply by colour pairs. It is:

orange/white
orange
green/white
blue
blue/white
green
brown/white
brown

and
flatten/position each wire into the correct order forming a dense,
flat and parallel set of wires fairly close to where they merge from
the jacket.

A thumbnail helps here to keep them in order

Trim straight across just over 1/2" from the jacket
maintaining the formation.

Use a pair of cable cutters. Scissors tend to make a mess of it, you
don't get a clean straight cut

Slip into plug making sure that each wire
slides fully down the right hole, crimp.

If you look at the end of the plug, you'll see where wire(s) have not
been fully pushed home - the cut copper end won't be visible.

--
:: je suis Charlie :: yo soy Charlie :: ik ben Charlie ::

On Fri, 01 May 2015 18:01:52 +0100, charles wrote:

In article ,
News wrote:
In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artÃ*culo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)

Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it
was just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it
in there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring
the slave sockets.

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a
little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)

Don't put plugs on . Terminate the cable in a wall socket. Then run a
short pre-made lead to the socket. Much easier and more flexible for
then future.

But, as I said, if you do that...use solid core CAT5. Sockets expect that
and the connection will otherwise be unreliable.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £0 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Fri, 1 May 2015 18:49:15 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

You need more practice. Strip 1 1/2 to 2" of outer jacket off,
untwist each pair starting with orange, green, blue, brown ...

You do _not_ wire the plugs simply by colour pairs.

I didn't say that. That is the best order for the untwisting and
laying out.

... and flatten/position each wire into the correct order ...

Note "correct order" I don't state what that order is.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 01/05/2015 18:01, charles wrote:
In article ,
News wrote:
In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)

Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it was
just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it in
there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring the
slave sockets.

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)

Don't put plugs on . Terminate the cable in a wall socket. Then run a
short pre-made lead to the socket. Much easier and more flexible for then
future.


Plus 1.


installing solid cat5e/6 to wall sockets and a patch panel with a krone
punch down tool is by far easier to do than make your own patch cables
running from router to computers.

No matter how hard I tried, I every patch cable I made had some issue
with it so I now use pre-made patch cables, mostly from CPC. An added
bonus is that they come in different colours so if you want to run more
than one network then the colours help if all the patch [anels are in
the same place.

FOr instance I use
blue for wireless network
Green for internal intranet
yellow for the DMZ (demilitarised zone)
red for WAN (wide area network which for me is the internet from
Virginmedia into my firewall.

Another bonus is that I can repurpose a wall socket to become a
telephone socket by putting adapters at the patch panel and wall socket
(provided you have run a phone line to the loft)

I actrually have a patch panel for phopne lines directly above the patch
panel for the wall sockets so use a white pre-made patch cable to link
fron one patch panel to the other, so I only need one adapter at the
wall socket.

On 02/05/15 09:10, Stephen wrote:
On 01/05/2015 18:01, charles wrote:
In article ,
News wrote:
In message , Mike Tomlinson
writes
En el artículo , News
escribió:

Thinking aloud here. There are various options.

Options are a Good Thing.

And responses from uk.d-i-y are an Even Better Thing :-)

Right. You all say extend the CAT5 not the BT line, so that is the way
forward. Just to clarify, the main BT socket is in a bedroom. It was
in a porch with a leaking roof, and was a mess. The line terminated in
one of those brown GPO junction boxes with two rows of six terminals,
from there to the main socket, which was unused (who has a phone in a
porch?) and from there to a slave socket. When we bought cordless
phones, I disconnected the cable from the junction box, and found it was
just long enough to enter a bedroom without any splicing, so fed it in
there and reattached the junction box and master socket, ignoring the
slave sockets.

First step will be to run CAT5 from the router (modem/router/network
switch/access point) which will be in the bedroom, beside the main BT
socket, outside and down to room containing son's desktop. Once that
works, I'll think about a second access point, but having read a little,
that involves scary stuff like IP addresses and netmasks and other
incomprehensibles.

Of course, this also involves putting plugs on CAT5, which is even more
scary. I do have the kit, and even a tester, but last time, it took me
about three tries at each end :-)

Don't put plugs on . Terminate the cable in a wall socket. Then run a
short pre-made lead to the socket. Much easier and more flexible for
then
future.


Plus 1.


installing solid cat5e/6 to wall sockets and a patch panel with a krone
punch down tool is by far easier to do than make your own patch cables
running from router to computers.

No matter how hard I tried, I every patch cable I made had some issue
with it so I now use pre-made patch cables, mostly from CPC. An added
bonus is that they come in different colours so if you want to run more
than one network then the colours help if all the patch [anels are in
the same place.

The secret is to buy the plugs with the wire bridge:

http://www.oc3an.com/media/catalog/p...r/j/rj54_1.jpg

(Ignore the shileding, you can get the plugs in plain old Cat5e UTP grade).

It makes it very easy to get it right.

FOr instance I use
blue for wireless network
Green for internal intranet
yellow for the DMZ (demilitarised zone)
red for WAN (wide area network which for me is the internet from
Virginmedia into my firewall.

Another bonus is that I can repurpose a wall socket to become a
telephone socket by putting adapters at the patch panel and wall socket
(provided you have run a phone line to the loft)

I actrually have a patch panel for phopne lines directly above the patch
panel for the wall sockets so use a white pre-made patch cable to link
fron one patch panel to the other, so I only need one adapter at the
wall socket.

En el artículo o.uk,
Dave Liquorice escribió:

I didn't say that. That is the best order for the untwisting and
laying out.

Your post could be construed by the unwary or inexperienced as saying
that that is the order in which the wires are inserted in the plug. You
even give the correct sequence - orange, green, blue, brown.

A cable made up like this will not work.

Note "correct order" I don't state what that order is.

quite. My post was intended to be additional to yours, not a
correction, hence the 'some more tips' at the top.

--
:: je suis Charlie :: yo soy Charlie :: ik ben Charlie ::

In message , charles
writes

Don't put plugs on . Terminate the cable in a wall socket. Then run a
short pre-made lead to the socket. Much easier and more flexible for then
future.

Temporary holdup (don't have a drill long enough to clear the window
frame), but that gives me time to get organised. Very many thanks for
ALL the useful posts. Extending the CAT5 is obviously the way forward,
and I rather like the idea of wall sockets and fly leads, but am not
quite sure what to buy - I'll need the two sockets and a punch down tool
to suit.

Browsing eBay, as ever.

150678372992 is a complete wall box with socket/module

221696253983 is a Pressac faceplate with single socket/module

261823468579 is a Pressac punch down tool

160458087505 is another punch down tool

160466551870 is a 50m cat5 patch cable, but probably stranded not solid

261578717000 20m of solid cat5 cable

221695875272 is two patch cable connectors, just in case ...

The question is, is either punch down tool compatible with either wall
box? (I have crimping pliers for plugs, but not a tool for sockets)
--
Graeme

News wrote:

261823468579 is a Pressac punch down tool
160458087505 is another punch down tool

The question is, is either punch down tool compatible with either wall
box?

Yes.

In message , Andy
Burns writes
News wrote:

261823468579 is a Pressac punch down tool
160458087505 is another punch down tool

The question is, is either punch down tool compatible with either wall
box?

Yes.

Thank you :-)

--
Graeme

In message , charles
writes

The best solution, as installed here, is to run a CAT5 cable from an output
of the router to your son's room. It can, like mine, go outdoors if that
makes an easier cable run

Agreed. Just trying to get together the necessary parts. Having found
faceplates online, I went to the shed to find back boxes, and found
three - all different sizes. Are RJ45 modules with faceplates likely to
fit a standard 13 amp socket type back box, or a phone extension back
box or something else? The description, helpfully, does not mention the
size back box required. I could wait for the faceplates to arrive, but
that just causes another delay.
--
Graeme

In message , News
writes
Are RJ45 modules with faceplates likely to fit a standard 13 amp socket
type back box, or a phone extension back box or something else?

Ignore! Just found a description elsewhere, which quotes faceplate size
as 8.5cm square.

--
Graeme

On Mon, 4 May 2015 10:33:11 +0100, News wrote:

Are RJ45 modules with faceplates likely to fit a standard 13 amp socket
type back box, or a phone extension back box or something else?

Ignore! Just found a description elsewhere, which quotes faceplate size
as 8.5cm square.

Yes, the face plates are standard single/double gang size. I thought
you where asking about depth though. A 16 mm deep box will be pushing
it, 25 mm OK, 35 mm roomy. You don't want to kink/fold the CAT5 but
neatly coil the excess 6" to 9" into the back of the box when fitting
the connected module and faceplate.

Also as a single faceplate can take two modules and the hardwork is
running cables run two cables even if you only connect one to a
module at this stage. This is where a 35 mm box comes in handy to
take the excess cable.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
Just buy a small network switch put it somewhere that
makes getting cables to it from the end points required as easy as
possible.

Right, progress. Holes drilled, wiring in place, cables connected and
everything works.

Just one point. At Son's end, he wants to connect PC and Playstation
so, not having a network switch, I used an old 3Com hub, which works,
but at a cost. Taking the connection from the wall to the hub and from
there to PC and PS, speed is about 5Mbps. However, if I bypass the hub
and wire directly from wall box to PC, speed is 67Mbps. Should using a
hub really make that much difference? The PS was not even turned on.

The answer, I suppose, is buy a network switch.

--
Graeme

On 11/05/15 16:24, News wrote:
In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
Just buy a small network switch put it somewhere that
makes getting cables to it from the end points required as easy as
possible.

Right, progress. Holes drilled, wiring in place, cables connected and
everything works.

Just one point. At Son's end, he wants to connect PC and Playstation
so, not having a network switch, I used an old 3Com hub, which works,
but at a cost. Taking the connection from the wall to the hub and from
there to PC and PS, speed is about 5Mbps. However, if I bypass the hub
and wire directly from wall box to PC, speed is 67Mbps. Should using a
hub really make that much difference? The PS was not even turned on.

The answer, I suppose, is buy a network switch.

well the answer is not a 10Mbps hub, anyway.


--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On 11/05/15 16:24, News wrote:
In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
Just buy a small network switch put it somewhere that
makes getting cables to it from the end points required as easy as
possible.

Right, progress. Holes drilled, wiring in place, cables connected and
everything works.

Just one point. At Son's end, he wants to connect PC and Playstation
so, not having a network switch, I used an old 3Com hub, which works,
but at a cost. Taking the connection from the wall to the hub and from
there to PC and PS, speed is about 5Mbps. However, if I bypass the hub
and wire directly from wall box to PC, speed is 67Mbps. Should using a
hub really make that much difference? The PS was not even turned on.

Yes, if it an old crap true hub that only does 10Mbit.

The answer, I suppose, is buy a network switch.


Basic gig switches are cheap as chips these days - I recommend the
Netgear ones for basic simple gig switching.