I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:10:10 -0000, "Vortex5"
wrote:

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

Err...I'm guessing you don't have a TS near you then ?

Motor Factors or Car Accessory shops/Halfords might have open ended
Spanners/Ring Keys in those sizes which is more likely what they will
know them as .Problem might be in getting one with the two sizes on
the one spanner .

Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:10:10 -0000, "Vortex5"
wrote:

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

Err...I'm guessing you don't have a TS near you then ?

Motor Factors or Car Accessory shops/Halfords might have open ended
Spanners/Ring Keys in those sizes which is more likely what they will
know them as .Problem might be in getting one with the two sizes on
the one spanner .

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:10:10 -0000, "Vortex5"
wrote:

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

Err...I'm guessing you don't have a TS near you then ?

Motor Factors or Car Accessory shops/Halfords might have open ended
Spanners/Ring Keys in those sizes which is more likely what they will
know them as .Problem might be in getting one with the two sizes on
the one spanner .

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

You swine, you beat me to it.... )

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:10:10 -0000, "Vortex5"
wrote:

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

Err...I'm guessing you don't have a TS near you then ?

Motor Factors or Car Accessory shops/Halfords might have open ended
Spanners/Ring Keys in those sizes which is more likely what they
will know them as .Problem might be in getting one with the two
sizes on the one spanner .

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

First one of the year, wll done that man!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Vortex5
wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 17:10

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

If you are anywhere near Robertsbridge, East Sussex, you're welcome to
borrow mine (seriously, email addy valid).

But no, I haven't seen them in B&Q or Homobase or Wickes.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 18:06

Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!



Beware. They only fit a certain selection of nuts. They don't fit 15mm nuts
on Peglar full bore valves - those nuts are bigger.

For other jobs, I use a pair of slimline high quality adjustable spanners.


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Vortex5
wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 17:10

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

If you are anywhere near Robertsbridge, East Sussex, you're welcome to
borrow mine (seriously, email addy valid).

But no, I haven't seen them in B&Q or Homobase or Wickes.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


Tim,

Thanks for the kind offer.

Immediate pressure is off now and I have ordered one.

D

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic heating
upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice interlocking pipe
clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very close to one another.

Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was entirely
due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check every nut before
"going live".

D

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 17:10:10 -0000, "Vortex5"
wrote:

I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?


D

Err...I'm guessing you don't have a TS near you then ?

Motor Factors or Car Accessory shops/Halfords might have open ended
Spanners/Ring Keys in those sizes which is more likely what they will
know them as .Problem might be in getting one with the two sizes on
the one spanner .

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

Spoken like a true pro :-)
Looks like the angle grinder has survived into 2010 then. That is the
second called for use of it in DIY :-)

Dave

Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic
heating upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice
interlocking pipe clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very
close to one another.
Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was
entirely due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check
every nut before "going live".

Nice job that.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 23:08


For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic
heating upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice
interlocking pipe clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very
close to one another.
Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was
entirely due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check
every nut before "going live".

Nice job that.



Seconded - nothing like a bit of neatly done copper.


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic
heating upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice
interlocking pipe clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very
close to one another.
Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was
entirely due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check
every nut before "going live".

Nice job that.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
om...
Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic
heating upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice
interlocking pipe clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very
close to one another.
Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was
entirely due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check
every nut before "going live".

Nice job that.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?

Bends. Looks a very good job. Congrats.

Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Bends.

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints. This won't be 100% true
because the 90 degree boiler primary corner will need to use solder
fittings...I have no 28mm bender (yet)

D

"Vortex5" wrote in message
...

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Vortex5 wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Vortex5 wrote:
I need a spanner like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y9wa57q

Problem is I would like it this weekend!

Can anybody tell me if any of the "sheds" sell them, please?

Don't know, but they look really useful - I'm going to order one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



For the record I am in the process of implementing a major domestic
heating upgrade (thermal store) and have used lots of those nice
interlocking pipe clips that allow you to run parallel pipes very
close to one another.
Problem is that this clipping technology looks great but makes any
compression joint utterly inaccessible. Example he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/access.jpg

Hence the need for one of these funky spanners. Today's leak was
entirely due to incompetence on my part but now I want to check
every nut before "going live".

Nice job that.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Unfortunately fannying about with heating systems in frosty weather is
potentially very disruptive and unpopular with the family.....hence the
Hep20 lashup to keep the house warm.

Next stage is to remove all the old controls and plumbing (the white bits)
reroute the boiler connections, slide in and connect the thermal store.
The primary circuit will ultimately be about 600 litres capacity.....and I
really do not want to have to drain it down in the worst case scenario to
fix a leak, so I need to take my time.

If I had one of these spanners I could potentially have finished
today....but will have to defer a week because I have a "proper" job to go
to tomorrow. Ho hum.

D

It looks fine is is very neat.Well done

Can I ask why you dislike soldered joints? I prefer them over a compression
joint anyday.

Adam

Vortex5 wrote:
Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Bends.

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints. This won't be
100% true because the 90 degree boiler primary corner will need to
use solder fittings...I have no 28mm bender (yet)

D

BTW, could you let me know what the spanner is like when it arrives?



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Unfortunately fannying about with heating systems in frosty weather is
potentially very disruptive and unpopular with the family.....hence the
Hep20 lashup to keep the house warm.

Next stage is to remove all the old controls and plumbing (the white
bits) reroute the boiler connections, slide in and connect the thermal
store. The primary circuit will ultimately be about 600 litres
capacity.....and I really do not want to have to drain it down in the
worst case scenario to fix a leak, so I need to take my time.

If I had one of these spanners I could potentially have finished
today....but will have to defer a week because I have a "proper" job to
go to tomorrow. Ho hum.

D

It looks fine is is very neat.Well done

Can I ask why you dislike soldered joints? I prefer them over a
compression joint anyday.

Adam

Actually there are quite a few solder joints, you just can't see them! No
special deliberate strategy, just convenience.

I've intentionally used compression joints in any location where future
"tweaking" may be necessary

D

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
om...
Vortex5 wrote:
Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Bends.

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints. This won't be
100% true because the 90 degree boiler primary corner will need to
use solder fittings...I have no 28mm bender (yet)

D

BTW, could you let me know what the spanner is like when it arrives?



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


No problem sir.

Vortex5
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 15:59

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints.

I was concerned about that with mine. Plan is to have the all pipes above
the top of the unit - except for 4 straights going directly through a wall
at the back corner - but those could be cut, and reinserted and rejointed
clear of the tank, being straight... This makes sense for me as all the CH
pipes need to head ceilingwards, the boiler is nearby and high level and the
PlateX and pump assembly will be high up on the wall.

I've gone to the trouble to cover the wall with floor to ceiling wood
battens every 2 foot to make fixing the pipes simple. I still need to do a
number of crossovers with vertical runs so it's going to get interesting. I
think I will spend a week planning it on paper before I touch a pipe cutter!

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 16:50



BTW, could you let me know what the spanner is like when it arrives?




I have that spanner. It's bloody good when it fits. It seems to fit
"ordinary" compression joints (whatever that means) but not some types or
Peglar valve.

I would say it's worth having because it's very nice when you can use it.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 16:50



BTW, could you let me know what the spanner is like when it arrives?




I have that spanner. It's bloody good when it fits. It seems to fit
"ordinary" compression joints (whatever that means) but not some types or
Peglar valve.

I would say it's worth having because it's very nice when you can use it.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


I wonder if I should have ordered 2? I can imagine an inline compression
fitting, or isolation valve being a particular headache if you can't grip
both ends.

....but actually I have a very thin jawed welding clamp (uses mole grip
technology) with which I can improvise.

D

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Vortex5
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 15:59

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints.

I was concerned about that with mine. Plan is to have the all pipes above
the top of the unit - except for 4 straights going directly through a wall
at the back corner - but those could be cut, and reinserted and rejointed
clear of the tank, being straight... This makes sense for me as all the CH
pipes need to head ceilingwards, the boiler is nearby and high level and
the
PlateX and pump assembly will be high up on the wall.

I've gone to the trouble to cover the wall with floor to ceiling wood
battens every 2 foot to make fixing the pipes simple. I still need to do a
number of crossovers with vertical runs so it's going to get interesting.
I
think I will spend a week planning it on paper before I touch a pipe
cutter!

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


I am installing an XCEL 2009 from www.heatweb.com

I have opted for the unvented system option, which introduces a variety of
complications, not least finding a home for the 100 litre expansion vessel.
All resolved though.

Because the overall system volume will approach 600 litres it will need a
lot of inhibitor. I have put check valves all over the place so I can deal
with most leaks or problems without draining down the main store. I am
however troubled by the thought of losing 50 quids worth of inhibitor If I
have to drain down the whole thing!

All being well should be commissioned within a week, and I intend to run it
for a while with no new inhibitor to check integrity first.

D

Vortex5
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 19:21


I am installing an XCEL 2009 from www.heatweb.com

I have opted for the unvented system option, which introduces a variety of
complications, not least finding a home for the 100 litre expansion
vessel. All resolved though.

I specc'd my own tank - a plain solar enabled jobbie with extra tappings all
over. Vented system (I understand them) - but as luck would have it, there's
a perfect location for the header tank (oversized oviously) in a bit of dead
space in the attic above and along a bit - at least I should manage a
gradient on the fill and expansion pipes to assist with filling and removeal
of trapped air. That's the plan anyway :-o


Because the overall system volume will approach 600 litres it will need a
lot of inhibitor.

Yes it will. Mine is 350l rough total estimate and that's already wallet
burningly large amounts of inhibitor.

I have put check valves all over the place so I can
deal
with most leaks or problems without draining down the main store.

Ditto. I hope to fill the system once and flush, drain, fill with inhibitor
and not drain it for the lifetime of the chemicals.

I am
however troubled by the thought of losing 50 quids worth of inhibitor If I
have to drain down the whole thing!

All being well should be commissioned within a week, and I intend to run
it for a while with no new inhibitor to check integrity first.

Indeed - I'd run it on plain water for a bit to check everything's happy and
there are no leaks, air traps or any other little mods needed[1]. Week or
two on plain shouldn't hurt it. It will ensure all the flux and crap is well
washed out too, or translated, the flux is washed out and the crap is in the
bottom of the store where it's not doing any harm.

[1] I would like to put air seperators in as many places as practical
(meaning high points, but where there isn't enough pump pressure to pump
over into the expansion tank via the seperator). As my tank is below
everything it feeds, it won't likely accumulate air appearing in other
parts.

Good luck - brave man doing it this time of year (or do you not have any CH
anyway?).

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Good luck - brave man doing it this time of year (or do you not have any
CH
anyway?).

--
CH is working fine.....thankfully.

Fortunately the new tank is in a different location to (what will be) the
old tank so the transition should be very quick. A few hours.

I have purchased a solar controller already (resol) and will get some tube
collectors from www.navitron.org.uk in due course.

Final step is a new boiler in the summer. Current Potterton is
non-condensing. Have been looking at the Viessmann system boilers as an
alternative.

All up I hope to halve the gas bill.


D

"Vortex5" wrote in message
...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Vortex5
wibbled on Sunday 03 January 2010 15:59

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints.

I was concerned about that with mine. Plan is to have the all pipes above
the top of the unit - except for 4 straights going directly through a
wall
at the back corner - but those could be cut, and reinserted and rejointed
clear of the tank, being straight... This makes sense for me as all the
CH
pipes need to head ceilingwards, the boiler is nearby and high level and
the
PlateX and pump assembly will be high up on the wall.

I've gone to the trouble to cover the wall with floor to ceiling wood
battens every 2 foot to make fixing the pipes simple. I still need to do
a
number of crossovers with vertical runs so it's going to get interesting.
I
think I will spend a week planning it on paper before I touch a pipe
cutter!

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


I am installing an XCEL 2009 from www.heatweb.com

I have opted for the unvented system option, which introduces a variety of
complications, not least finding a home for the 100 litre expansion
vessel. All resolved though.

Because the overall system volume will approach 600 litres it will need a
lot of inhibitor. I have put check valves all over the place so I can
deal with most leaks or problems without draining down the main store. I
am however troubled by the thought of losing 50 quids worth of inhibitor
If I have to drain down the whole thing!

All being well should be commissioned within a week, and I intend to run
it for a while with no new inhibitor to check integrity first.

Are you using the vented expansion vessel?

Put in full bore valve as isolators to avoid losing the inhibitor.

I am installing an XCEL 2009 from www.heatweb.com

I have opted for the unvented system option, which introduces a variety
of complications, not least finding a home for the 100 litre expansion
vessel. All resolved though.

Because the overall system volume will approach 600 litres it will need a
lot of inhibitor. I have put check valves all over the place so I can
deal with most leaks or problems without draining down the main store. I
am however troubled by the thought of losing 50 quids worth of inhibitor
If I have to drain down the whole thing!

All being well should be commissioned within a week, and I intend to run
it for a while with no new inhibitor to check integrity first.

Are you using the vented expansion vessel?

Put in full bore valve as isolators to avoid losing the inhibitor.



I've thought hard about this and will be installing a full bore valve at the
main feed to the store.

Whilst not strictly compliant, this will solve the problem.

In any event the store has 2 pressure relief points (one by the expansion
vessel and one at the top). I will also make sure the valve is disabled so
it cannot be casually closed.

Vortex5
wibbled on Monday 04 January 2010 06:30


I've thought hard about this and will be installing a full bore valve at
the main feed to the store.

Whilst not strictly compliant, this will solve the problem.

In any event the store has 2 pressure relief points (one by the expansion
vessel and one at the top). I will also make sure the valve is disabled
so it cannot be casually closed.

Why do you think it's not compliant - sounds fine to me. The expansion pipe
at the top is serving the purpose perfectly.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"Tim W" wrote in message
...
Vortex5
wibbled on Monday 04 January 2010 06:30


I've thought hard about this and will be installing a full bore valve at
the main feed to the store.

Whilst not strictly compliant, this will solve the problem.

In any event the store has 2 pressure relief points (one by the expansion
vessel and one at the top). I will also make sure the valve is disabled
so it cannot be casually closed.

Why do you think it's not compliant - sounds fine to me. The expansion
pipe
at the top is serving the purpose perfectly.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...


I am going by DPS' own manual which has words to the effect: "The expansion
relief valve must be connected directly to the feed input of the heatbank
without the possibility of isolation"

But hey rules are made for breaking....and there is another valve.

D

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Then it was a **** spanner to start with.

Vortex5 wrote:



Thanks,

To many people it seems rather perverse but I love plumbing.

Work in progress as of yesterday afternoon is he
http://home.btconnect.com/vortex/wip.jpg

Are all those bends in the corner actual bends or elbows?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Bends.

Thermal store will be pushed into that corner.

My goal has been to have zero inaccessible joints.


All joints are accessible. Its only a question of how much house you
have to remove to access them.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Then it was a **** spanner to start with.

How little you know.

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 11:14:03 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:

This is a job for an ordinary or ring spanner and an

ANGLE GRINDER.

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Then it was a **** spanner to start with.

I'd agree with you: I've a ring spanner for 1/2" tail nuts that was made by
cutting out a 16mm piece (sorry - not with an AG), sawing off the cut ring
and welding it back on 90 deg. for getting under sinks etc.

It's had a fair bit of force on it at times and is still in perfect
condition.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember PeterC
saying something like:

ANGLE GRINDER.

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Then it was a **** spanner to start with.

I'd agree with you: I've a ring spanner for 1/2" tail nuts that was made by
cutting out a 16mm piece (sorry - not with an AG), sawing off the cut ring
and welding it back on 90 deg. for getting under sinks etc.

It's had a fair bit of force on it at times and is still in perfect
condition.

And what was the wall thickness and depth of this ring spanner to start
with? I suspect it was a fairly hefty old piece.
NP's assertion that it would be 'a **** spanner to begin with' is full
of holes - then again, he talks much ****. Many of the high-quality
slimline ring spanners wouldn't stand for this kind of treatment, but
you'd tend to find the older low-tech, low-browed,
material-instead-of-quality designs might, probably not for long though.
Here's a clue - I have several Snap-On open brakeline spanners going
back decades and without exception they are all hex (not 12-pointed) and
heavy sidewalled to compensate for the open end.

Aye, **** spanners indeed.

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember PeterC
saying something like:

ANGLE GRINDER.
Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.
Then it was a **** spanner to start with.
I'd agree with you: I've a ring spanner for 1/2" tail nuts that was made by
cutting out a 16mm piece (sorry - not with an AG), sawing off the cut ring
and welding it back on 90 deg. for getting under sinks etc.

It's had a fair bit of force on it at times and is still in perfect
condition.

And what was the wall thickness and depth of this ring spanner to start
with? I suspect it was a fairly hefty old piece.
NP's assertion that it would be 'a **** spanner to begin with' is full
of holes - then again, he talks much ****. Many of the high-quality
slimline ring spanners wouldn't stand for this kind of treatment, but
you'd tend to find the older low-tech, low-browed,
material-instead-of-quality designs might, probably not for long though.
Here's a clue - I have several Snap-On open brakeline spanners going
back decades and without exception they are all hex (not 12-pointed) and
heavy sidewalled to compensate for the open end.

Aye, **** spanners indeed.

Th day I put 100lb ft on a compression fitting is the day you can call
me Drivel.

You simply don't NEED that much.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
saying something like:

Th day I put 100lb ft on a compression fitting is the day you can call
me Drivel.

You simply don't NEED that much.

Who mentioned 100ft/lb? A bodgy cut-apart ring will open at much less
than that.

Go and service a nuke.

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:01:57 +0000, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

Only for a clot.
The wall strength of a cut ring spanner is ****.

Then it was a **** spanner to start with.

I'd agree with you: I've a ring spanner for 1/2" tail nuts that was made by
cutting out a 16mm piece (sorry - not with an AG), sawing off the cut ring
and welding it back on 90 deg. for getting under sinks etc.

It's had a fair bit of force on it at times and is still in perfect
condition.

And what was the wall thickness and depth of this ring spanner to start
with? I suspect it was a fairly hefty old piece.

Third-world job: England, Bedford vanadium. Wall's about 2.5mm/1.5mm,
12-point. Obviously I use a lever through t'other end.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember PeterC
saying something like:

And what was the wall thickness and depth of this ring spanner to start
with? I suspect it was a fairly hefty old piece.

Third-world job: England, Bedford vanadium. Wall's about 2.5mm/1.5mm,
12-point. Obviously I use a lever through t'other end.

Bugger. The exception that etc.
I admit that Bedford vanadium spanners were tough old things, but I'd
like to see that used day-in, day-out on taps and see how long it takes
before the jaws spread.