Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

Cheers,
Ben

"Ben C" wrote in message
...
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is
great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty
they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

Cheers,
Ben



You can buy clear plastic sheet and make piggy back double glazed units that
fit on the inside or outside of the main frames. If it's fitted properly,
then it seals the actual window sashes from outside world and stops anything
getting to them.

"Ben C" wrote in message
...
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is
great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty
they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

Cheers,
Ben


I have loads of sash windows and it is very satisfying if a long job to
renovate them completely.
With the windows out of the frame I have fitted a product called Atomic
strip to the vertical frames where the windows move up and down. This is a
flexible metallic strip that will keep out draughts and which can be oiled
to make the windows move more easily.For the top and bottom edges I use E
section flexible rubber strip. For the joint in the middle where the windows
meet I do not use draught proofer but make certain that there are strong
catches that will pull the two windows together.
John Chapman

In article , says...
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Get some brush draft-excluder and fix it between the meeting rails, adn
each sash and the parting beading.

--
Hywel I do not eat quiche
http://hyweljenkins.co.uk/
http://hyweljenkins.co.uk/mfaq.php

"John Chapman" wrote in message


I have loads of sash windows and it is very satisfying if a long job to
renovate them completely.
With the windows out of the frame I have fitted a product called Atomic
strip to the vertical frames where the windows move up and down. This is a
flexible metallic strip that will keep out draughts and which can be oiled
to make the windows move more easily.For the top and bottom edges I use E
section flexible rubber strip. For the joint in the middle where the windows
meet I do not use draught proofer but make certain that there are strong
catches that will pull the two windows together.

I think that sliding sashes have to be the best looking windows going.
Pity they are so draughty. They were designed to allow a certain amount
of draught through though. But the trouble is over the years they deform
slightly and paint makes it all worse.

People tend to seal them with paint and filler. Morons! The best long
term double glazing for them is secondary glazing if you have enough of
a reveal inside. You can't add much to the weight of the sashes without
spoiling them.

If you have to separate the sashes:

Take the beads that separate the sliders out with a chisel. The outer
bead (inner?? -the beads that go all around the frame on the inside) is
fixed with 1 1/2" nails. They will be sticky with paint after many
years neglect no doubt.

The parting beads -the two separating the sashes, are (hopefully) only
pressed into a groove some 1/4" deep. They may feel like they are glued
and screwed. Parting bead is fairly cheap if you can find a supplier.
You may need to put it back with 1 1/2" nails. Once you have it apart
the sashes will hang freely. Don't be tempted to take maintenace further
than that as fiddling around trying to replace cord is a time consuming
business for anyone.

If you are not going to take them apart at all, just rub the edges that
you can reach with a candle. Don't paint the channels they run in if you
don't need to. You'll be amazed how much difference spraying some
furniture polish in there makes to the way they run. What ruins them is
paint on the cord. If they are heavily painted and won't run and you
really want to fix a problem like that.......

To be continued.


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Hywel Jenkins wrote in message ...
In article , says...
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is
great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty
they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Get some brush draft-excluder and fix it between the meeting rails, adn
each sash and the parting beading.
You can improve matters on the bottom sash just by re-positioning the staff
bead on the inside. If the catch isn't forcing the meeting rails together,
that's another source of draughts.
If the top sash rattles there isn't a lot you can do without dismantling the
whole thing. A couple of rubber wedges between it and the parting bead will
force it outwards against the edge of the box.

On Sun, 5 Oct 2003 22:16:09 +0100, "John Chapman"
wrote:

With the windows out of the frame I have fitted a product called Atomic
strip to the vertical frames where the windows move up and down. This is a
flexible metallic strip that will keep out draughts and which can be oiled
to make the windows move more easily.

Whilst googling for said "Atomic strip" I cam across:

http://www.chandler-akehurst.com/sam...l/recyclin.htm

I commend the page to the groups attention :-)


Barley Twist
(Please put out the cats to reply direct)

In article , Ben C wrote:
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

If you don't fancy DIY and are in a hurry - give a company called
"Ventrolla" a call (prolly web too).

They quoted 2500 inc vat to renovate all our sash windows - but on
closer in spection they were too fargone to save "sensibly" so we
removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements (as the sash
replacements were one arm, a leg, a kidney and a re-mortgage).

Cheers
Dan.

In article , Dan
delaMare-Lyon writes
If you don't fancy DIY and are in a hurry - give a company called
"Ventrolla" a call (prolly web too).

They quoted 2500 inc vat to renovate all our sash windows - but on
closer in spection they were too fargone to save "sensibly" so we
removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements (as the sash
replacements were one arm, a leg, a kidney and a re-mortgage).
I'm surprised Dan, I bought a set of 5 wooden replacements (8'x4') for
about 250quid each plus about 400quid to glaze the lot in low-E DG units.
Ok, it was about 5 years ago, but I was amazed how cheap it was. Not
cheaply made units either, all have draught seals fitted in routed channels.
--
fred

In article , John Chapman
writes

"Ben C" wrote in message
...
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is
great,
but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how draughty
they
are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise the wind blowing
through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem before and want to
consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

Cheers,
Ben


I have loads of sash windows and it is very satisfying if a long job to
renovate them completely.
With the windows out of the frame I have fitted a product called Atomic
strip to the vertical frames where the windows move up and down. This is a
flexible metallic strip that will keep out draughts and which can be oiled
to make the windows move more easily.For the top and bottom edges I use E
section flexible rubber strip. For the joint in the middle where the windows
meet I do not use draught proofer but make certain that there are strong
catches that will pull the two windows together.
John Chapman

I haven't seen Atomic strip, but have used 'flexible V-seal' in a similar way.
I got mine from the local sheds and it has been very effective. As with
John's solution they fit to the edges of the sliding sash, under the parting
(middle) bead and the staff (inner) bead. The negative bit is that you need
to remove the beads to fit the seal but on the positive side this is a near
permanent solution. I also chose to replace the beads when I fitted them
as they would have been ripped to pieces by the rough over-painted
articles that lived there before.

As someone else said, the quick fix it to apply wedges to the sashes to
close up the gap to the parting bead, the ones for the upper sash will need
to be fitted to the outside to achieve this.

HTH
--
fred

Ben C wrote:
Hi

My new home has gigantic sash windows in all the rooms. The light is
great, but with colder temperatures fast arriving, I've realised how
draughty they are. Does anyone have any advice on how to minimise
the wind blowing through all the gaps? I've not tackled this problem
before and want to consider all the options...

Thanks very much for any tips you can give.

Cheers,
Ben

See here
http://www.mighton.co.uk/Static%20Pages/weather.htm

In article , fred wrote:

They quoted 2500 inc vat to renovate all our sash windows - but on
closer in spection they were too fargone to save "sensibly" so we
removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements (as the sash
replacements were one arm, a leg, a kidney and a re-mortgage).
I'm surprised Dan, I bought a set of 5 wooden replacements (8'x4') for
about 250quid each plus about 400quid to glaze the lot in low-E DG units.
Ok, it was about 5 years ago, but I was amazed how cheap it was. Not
cheaply made units either, all have draught seals fitted in routed channels.

Well I got several places to quote - and the cheapest to my suprise
was John Carr. The units were 1.6M high by 1.2m wide. I faxed them
drawings (sketches) of each window - and they came back with prices.

They were of the order of 900 quid *each* (given that I'd asked for
replacements of 1930's windows to the "closest" possible style) -
excluding glass and the hassle of fitting them.

Needless to say - 12 windows at 900 odd quid each - then glazing -
then fitting - then decorating - it's got pushed aside in favour of
the £5100 on 12 windows - plus a new back door - all made to "look"
like sash style windows.

They are a lot more in keeping with the "look and feel" than the
crappy ones fitted by the council - nuff said.

I'd have loved to gone the real wood route - preferably being able to
repair the windows that were in the house - but they'd suffered from
65 years of council "maintenance" (ie painting over problems), and
then 10 years of being maintained by an architect (ie painting over
problems and making bigger problems).

Cheers
Dan.

In article , Steve Firth wrote:
Dan delaMare-Lyon wrote:

so we removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements

No such animal exists. Also the life expectancy of uPVC is shorter than
that of seasoned wood. Ulitmately, no matter what witless planners
think, it doesn't really matter because the uPVC windows can be removed
and replaced with something else in future, but IMO they're a really
poor choice not only looking vile but not even coming close to living up
to the overpaid salesmans claims.

This salesman was a lot less overpaid than many of the others that
wanted 10k for the job. I looked at sliding sash UPVC's too and they
were lovely - but as expensive as wood.

If we had had the funds to replace all the windows in wood we would
have done - but at the time we had 2k to play with - and managed to
stretch to a loan of a further 3 - giving us 5.

Job done in UPVC as a function of cost.

Cheers
Dna.

fred wrote in message ...
In article , Dan
delaMare-Lyon writes
If you don't fancy DIY and are in a hurry - give a company called
"Ventrolla" a call (prolly web too).

They quoted 2500 inc vat to renovate all our sash windows - but on
closer in spection they were too fargone to save "sensibly" so we
removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements (as the sash
replacements were one arm, a leg, a kidney and a re-mortgage).
I'm surprised Dan, I bought a set of 5 wooden replacements (8'x4') for
about 250quid each plus about 400quid to glaze the lot in low-E DG units.
Ok, it was about 5 years ago, but I was amazed how cheap it was. Not
cheaply made units either, all have draught seals fitted in routed channels.

And used /reclaimed sash windows are around £70 a go. Glazed as well.

Regards, NT

In article , N.
Thornton writes
fred wrote in message ...
In article , Dan
delaMare-Lyon writes
If you don't fancy DIY and are in a hurry - give a company called
"Ventrolla" a call (prolly web too).

They quoted 2500 inc vat to renovate all our sash windows - but on
closer in spection they were too fargone to save "sensibly" so we
removed tehm and had sympathetic UPVC replacements (as the sash
replacements were one arm, a leg, a kidney and a re-mortgage).

I'm surprised Dan, I bought a set of 5 wooden replacements (8'x4') for
about 250quid each plus about 400quid to glaze the lot in low-E DG units.
Ok, it was about 5 years ago, but I was amazed how cheap it was. Not
cheaply made units either, all have draught seals fitted in routed channels.

And used /reclaimed sash windows are around £70 a go. Glazed as well.

Good point, but not a goer for me:

The 5 windows form a corner oriel window. When I did the loss calcs for
the CH I realised that single glazing just wasn't going to work; 14sqm of
glass /6.5 sqm of floor :-/. The 'new' ones are DG so a lot better from that
point of view.

The rest of the windows in the house are SG and just fine, I'll check out
reclamation if they get too bad.
--
fred

fred wrote in message ...
In article , N.

14sqm of
glass /6.5 sqm of floor :-/.

wow. Now thats what I call glazing.

NT

In article , N.
Thornton writes
fred wrote in message ...
In article , N.

14sqm of
glass /6.5 sqm of floor :-/.

wow. Now thats what I call glazing.
:-)

Ok, that is just the oriel, but it wasn't half a huge heatsink for the rest of
the room (~25sqm).

The oriel is my favourite place to sit & read or do paperwork, very bright all
day, even in the depths of winter.
--
fred

Hi!
This was a message from 2003 that I found when searching for Atomic Strip. Does anyone know where it can still be bought? Another message refers to www.chandler-akehurst as a possible source, but that seems to be a dead link now.
Cheers, JAP

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 18:19:20 +0100, peat666
wrote:


Hi!
This was a message from 2003 that I found when searching for Atomic
Strip. Does anyone know where it can still be bought? Another message
refers to www.chandler-akehurst as a possible source, but that seems to
be a dead link now.
Cheers, JAP

Hi,

Try a non ferrous stockholder and ask if they have tempered or a
similar grade brass and describe what you need it for, as there are
loads of different grades:

http://www.cda.org.uk/megab2/general/pub120/table12b.htm

They may be able to put a small fold in it for you too, or know where
it can be done.

cheers,
Pete.