Christian McArdle wrote:
[ Acrylic/gloss for sliding sash windows ]
Also, the problems incurred by using a paint system that
requires a full 24 hours between coats whilst I have no
windows, outweighs the benefit, I feel.

You have to start early. In the hot weather, this is a great
advantage! Be careful not to let the paint run into the sliding
joints (don't put too much on) or it will stick your windows up,
oil or water-based. Let the windows dry through the day, you
can close them gently and open them again next day for glossing.
You may need to plan a "rota".


[ glass scrapers ]
Excellent. Much better than those horrible hand painted 0.5-1cm
overlaps we have at present.

Good God. Someone is really ham-fisted painting! A scraper will
whizz that off in a trice. To paint close to glass, the angle
at which you hold the brush is all-important, and somewhat
counter-intuitive. Hold the handle of the brush close to the
glass at a slight angle to it, rather than pointing the bristles
at the glass and goint along almost perpendicular.


[ broken sash-cords ]
However, even with the existing weights it would be an
improvement. We did find a few remains of sash cord, in the
old ones. I'm amazed the bottom sash survived me opening the
window on the first day. My eardrums didn't.

Use good-quality sash cord when you replace them, should last
a *long* time! Don't get paint on the sash cords.


[ DG units ]
I was told by a local glazing company that they could make
sealed units 14mm thick, so there would still be some moulding
left on the vertical bar if we did go ahead.

You *can* get 12mm - 4-4-4 instead of 4-6-4.


I'll need double glazed sashes on the front of the house,
though. A previous owner put white uPVC in an overt attempt
to annoy the neighbours. [ ... ] I'll need to examine them to
see if the sash boxes are still there. I think replacements
would be sufficiently major to incur the need for a building
control notice, though.

If the boxes are still there, you should be safe from the
bloody pen-pushers. A local joinery firm should be able to
make to measure.


It is very worthwhile draught-proofing these windows
(but NOT the botom or meeting rails if you've got single
glazing).

Why not draughtproof the meeting rails and bottoms?

Because, with single glazing, condensation runs through any
small gaps at the meeting and botom rail. These gaps are not
usu. significant, anyway. Mighton is good for draughtproofing.
If you have someone make up sash windows complete, D/G, they
should be able to use similar products & the thing will
still come out cheaper than PVC.

N.B. to prevent condensation soaking collecting on the meeting
rail, lay a strip of cotton material along to wick off the
moisture & avoid it soaking into the sash where pooled.


What a disgraceful incitement. You don't seem to realise what
a Critall window is, I don't see how you could "accidentally
smash it".

Sorry gov, I was just playing with my oxyacetalene torch when...

Oh! I was using a lump hammer and chisel to take off the
wallpaper, and my hand slipped. And again. And again.....


[ someone else wrot - Hey, Christian, can't you quote? ]

Nah, I'm not good at that. But at least my newsreader doesn't
knacker up the thread! (FYI, your newsreader always puts your
messages at the root of a thread, even when you've replied to
a specific message).

No, it doesn't. The mail account that I'm using to post via a
mail2news gateway does that. I can't help it, it's not my
software. I wish I could!




__________________________________________________ ______________
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com

You have to start early. In the hot weather, this is a great
advantage! Be careful not to let the paint run into the sliding
joints (don't put too much on) or it will stick your windows up,
oil or water-based. Let the windows dry through the day, you
can close them gently and open them again next day for glossing.
You may need to plan a "rota".

I was planning to remove the windows totally for painting in the back
garden. I'll just leave the holes overnight, rather than risk damaging the
undercoat.

Unfortunately, I've not got any time to do it until maybe October now.
There's just too much other stuff to do. I've got to replace the bath waste
tonight. It was held on with some crumbly powder that didn't survive having
the trap removed for rodding this morning. Then there's the kitchen, the
electrics and the central heating to sort out.

Good God. Someone is really ham-fisted painting!

You should see the rest of the house. Barely a floor board nailed down. (I
actually quite like this, as it is very helpful installing cable TV,
intruder alarm, extra sockets, central heating etc.)

Use good-quality sash cord when you replace them, should last
a *long* time! Don't get paint on the sash cords.

Do you recommend natural or synthetic sash cords?

I was told by a local glazing company that they could make
sealed units 14mm thick, so there would still be some moulding
left on the vertical bar if we did go ahead.

You *can* get 12mm - 4-4-4 instead of 4-6-4.

Interesting. With 8mm difference (assuming 4mm SG glass), I don't lose any
of the steps on the moulding. The bars are quite deep at the moment.

If the boxes are still there, you should be safe from the
bloody pen-pushers. A local joinery firm should be able to
make to measure.

Still haven't had time to look. Assuming the worst, are sash boxes normally
just made out of standard joinery, or is it better to buy them made to
measure with the frames?

No, it doesn't. The mail account that I'm using to post via a
mail2news gateway does that. I can't help it, it's not my
software. I wish I could!

You may be able to do it manually, although it is a bit of a faff.

View the headers of the message you are replying to. There should be a line
similar to:

Message-ID:

Now copy and paste this into the first line of your reply, but change
"Message-ID" to "References".

It may or may not work, depending on your mail2news gateway and your mail
program.

Christian.