the bottm sash and cills of my sliding sash windows are in need of
repair.The bottom rail of the bottom sash is hanging off and is in
danger of leaving the glass fully exposed. One snap of a sash cord and
hey presto- instant guiloteen.
The cills are well 'weathered' bare of paintwork and veined.
I would preferebly like to replace the cills and sashes, in order to
retain the character of the buiding. i don't fancy replacing the
complete windows as i dont want to spend loads of money on DG sash
units.
Anyone with experience of refurbishing their sash windows or any good
UK sites that can give me some ideas. Even though I can fit uPVC
windows I dont really like them.

dave wrote in message . ..
the bottm sash and cills of my sliding sash windows are in need of
repair.The bottom rail of the bottom sash is hanging off and is in
danger of leaving the glass fully exposed. One snap of a sash cord and
hey presto- instant guiloteen.
The cills are well 'weathered' bare of paintwork and veined.
I would preferebly like to replace the cills and sashes, in order to
retain the character of the buiding. i don't fancy replacing the
complete windows as i dont want to spend loads of money on DG sash
units.
Anyone with experience of refurbishing their sash windows or any good
UK sites that can give me some ideas. Even though I can fit uPVC
windows I dont really like them.
Mine still look good 15 years after renovation, and at least a couple were
in the same state as yours. I used car body filler to replace *all* rotten
timber and "re-faced" the good stuff with it too. Metal rods or dowelling
across the joints have proved very effective. You can buy 3.5 kgs for about
a tenner from auto repair wholesalers and, once you get the hang of
sculpting with it, you can repair any part of the window. I used greased
hardboard to get sharp edges and corners and by the time I'd finished mine I
reckoned to do a pair of sashes in a day. Hard work but, as I say, 15 years
on, and not even a re-paint.

Hi jacob
In om you wrote:
Some sash window stuff here. Bit out of date this site but I haven't
had time to work on it, but don't want to dump it entirely.
http://www.jpbutler.demon.co.uk/joinery

Fascinating read. I've got four sash windows that need repaired. One does
not open, another two only the bottom light opens, and on each one a sash
cord is broken. The fourth window's top light is stuck open about an inch
and the gap has been stuffed with newspaper.

A real state, but I'm totally skint and there's no way I could afford a
joiner/glazier to come and sort it out. The other problem is that they are
about 20ft up, and I'm not confident on ladders! A tower may be better,
but the ground beneath is stepped.

Ho hum.... back to dreaming about fixing things again.....

--
Fishter
unhook to email me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.
ICQ 43390442 |

Fishter wrote in message ...
A real state, but I'm totally skint and there's no way I could afford a
joiner/glazier to come and sort it out. The other problem is that they are
about 20ft up, and I'm not confident on ladders! A tower may be better,
but the ground beneath is stepped.
The beauty of sliding sashes is that you can do everything from the inside.
Just take the sashes out, reverse them, and work on them at your leisure.
You can hold them in position with a few nails and fix them at the most
convenient height. Lots of hoovering in the bedroom but a whole lot better
than being up a tower.

Hi stuart noble
In news
Fishter wrote in message ...
A real state, but I'm totally skint and there's no way I could afford a
joiner/glazier to come and sort it out. The other problem is that they are
about 20ft up, and I'm not confident on ladders! A tower may be better,
but the ground beneath is stepped.
The beauty of sliding sashes is that you can do everything from the inside.
Just take the sashes out, reverse them, and work on them at your leisure.
You can hold them in position with a few nails and fix them at the most
convenient height. Lots of hoovering in the bedroom but a whole lot better
than being up a tower.

But now I'm looking for the holy grail of DIY. A quick, easy solution to
30yrs of gloss paint.

And my next question.... how to convince SWMBO that I am capable of fixing
the windows ;-))
My most complex project to date is a tie between hanging a new door in a
squint frame, and laying sheet vinyl in a single piece in a roughly Z
shaped bathroom.

--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
ICQ 43390442 |
"Let me guess, zero K memory?"

In article ,
Fishter wrote:
A real state, but I'm totally skint and there's no way I could afford a
joiner/glazier to come and sort it out. The other problem is that they
are about 20ft up, and I'm not confident on ladders! A tower may be
better, but the ground beneath is stepped.

You can do a full overhaul on sash windows from the inside.

--
*What happens if you get scared half to death twice? *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Fishter wrote in message ...
But now I'm looking for the holy grail of DIY. A quick, easy solution to
30yrs of gloss paint.
On the bottom sash a power plane set to very fine indeed works a treat if
you can secure it flat on a couple of workmates or something. Not quite so
well on the top because the meeting rail is usually proud of the rest.
And my next question.... how to convince SWMBO that I am capable of fixing
the windows ;-))
Try one window and see how you go.

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
You can do a full overhaul on sash windows from the inside.

But oh the mess! And all that dust in the pot pourri. For all I know it
might even settle on wet nail varnish or get between the pages of Hello
magazine. No, hubby's place is up a ladder, in a check shirt, and
preferably wielding a 5kg SDS.

Heh heh. If you have my luck, any breeze will take the dust inside no
matter how you work on a window or door.

--
*It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

If they need servicing i.e. sash cords, freeing off etc then I'd take
them out and do everything you can to them inside the room including
paint preparation primer and undercoat. Then re-hang and adjust etc,
if necessary make good any marks to paintwork, then finish off in situ
with gloss, ladder of necessary.
If they don't need servicing - old paintwork is best left on if
possible. You could smooth it by sanding - 60 grit and cork block.
Wash with sugar soap and paint as necessary in situ.
In other words final paintwork is best done in situ as gloss takes
some time to harden and will get damaged if bashed about a bit.

cheers

jacob