Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old May 13th 19, 04:29 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

I've got a 1440 Chinese lathe from Precision Mathews. Its not the cats
meow, but its still better than any other lathe I have. Often when
taking facing cuts or parting cuts I like to lock the carriage. The
bolt for that is a recessed socket head screw. It works ok, but it
seems I am always looking around for the hex key when I want to release
it and move the tool away from the stock. Unless I am holding it in my
hand the whole time it always takes me a couple seconds longer than I
would like to locate where I set it down.

I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't. I'd keep it as low as possible, and make the
handle about half the difference in length between a short arm and a
long arm hex key that size.

Speaking of such I'd also like to lock the cross slide from time to
time. There isn't a lock on it, but it does have a tapered gibb that's
easily adjustable with a screw at each end. Usually I just keep the
gibb adjusted a little bit tighter than is perfectly comfortable to spin
the hand wheel, but on heavy roughing cuts it can still back off on
longer pieces of stock. I wind up standing there with my hand on the
hand wheel and my eye on the DRO the whole time. Is that just the best
way to do it?


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Old May 13th 19, 05:08 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
I've got a 1440 Chinese lathe from Precision Mathews. Its not the
cats meow, but its still better than any other lathe I have. Often
when taking facing cuts or parting cuts I like to lock the carriage.
The bolt for that is a recessed socket head screw. It works ok, but
it seems I am always looking around for the hex key when I want to
release it and move the tool away from the stock. Unless I am
holding it in my hand the whole time it always takes me a couple
seconds longer than I would like to locate where I set it down.

I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement
bolt, drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT
shaft on hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no
big deal. Any reason why I shouldn't. I'd keep it as low as
possible, and make the handle about half the difference in length
between a short arm and a long arm hex key that size.

Speaking of such I'd also like to lock the cross slide from time to
time. There isn't a lock on it, but it does have a tapered gibb
that's easily adjustable with a screw at each end. Usually I just
keep the gibb adjusted a little bit tighter than is perfectly
comfortable to spin the hand wheel, but on heavy roughing cuts it
can still back off on longer pieces of stock. I wind up standing
there with my hand on the hand wheel and my eye on the DRO the whole
time. Is that just the best way to do it?


I bought several 'vintage' box wrenches for square-headed bolts and
made replacements for missing lock and clamp screws on my 1965 South
Bend to fit them. There's been no problem with the square head
carriage lock.

When not trying to match a style and period I make as many fasteners
as possible on home made machinery fit the same pocketable gear
wrench, normally 9/16" for 3/8" bolt heads.

The SB has a Threading Stop which is a bar that locks into the
dovetail and limits in or outfeed, so the cross slide can be retracted
to quickly move the carriage and then run back against the stop for
the cut. It serves the same function you are looking for without
messing with the gib adjustment.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/South-Bend-...-/123733462898



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Old May 13th 19, 06:24 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Old May 13th 19, 06:54 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to



"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

**** Not a bad idea, and I do have a location specifically for the chuck
key(s), but which chuck key depends on which chuck I have on the lathe.

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


**** This lathe has its own lever locking system for the tail stock. I
have to adjust it once in a while, btut not tools required to lock it in
place, or to adjust the lock. I do leave a 3/4 box end wrench ont eh
tailstock clamping bolt on my smaller 8.5x 18 lathe.


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Old May 16th 19, 03:20 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 2019-05-13, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...

On Sun, 12 May 2019 20:29:25 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
I've been thinking about about making a taller head replacement bolt,
drilling it for a small vise handle. I've got a bit of 4140QT shaft on
hand and a bit of 1/4" 1144 rod. Making it should be no big deal. Any
reason why I shouldn't...


Another idea is to make it such that your chuck key fits it...

**** Not a bad idea, and I do have a location specifically for the chuck
key(s), but which chuck key depends on which chuck I have on the lathe.


If you have only two lathe chucks -- make a wrench with two
ends, and the tommy-bar in the middle.

I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.

Enjoy,
DoN.


--
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Old May 16th 19, 03:08 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On 16 May 2019 02:20:55 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...


snip
I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.


DoN, if you see the tail-stock it makes a lot more sense:

https://i.postimg.cc/rFQzNcW0/Lathe-9x20-tailstock.jpg

They just give you a bolt head to secure the tail-stock. You can't
quite release it with one grab using a standard wrench. So you have
fiddle with the wrench on/off the head to both loosen and tighten the
tail-stock.

I also added a spring underneath between the wedging nut and the stock.
Helps to release it a bit sooner.

What it really needs is the cam-lock mod but I'm lazy...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Old May 16th 19, 05:56 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to


"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On 16 May 2019 02:20:55 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message ...


snip
I bought a cheap set of HF metric ratchet wrenches that have
reverse on
them:

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-m...set-68833.html

I leave the 12mm on/in the tail stock locking bolt. One more idea


Cheap and not capable of much torque -- but quite likely
sufficient for your specified needs.


DoN, if you see the tail-stock it makes a lot more sense:

https://i.postimg.cc/rFQzNcW0/Lathe-9x20-tailstock.jpg

They just give you a bolt head to secure the tail-stock. You can't
quite release it with one grab using a standard wrench. So you have
fiddle with the wrench on/off the head to both loosen and tighten
the
tail-stock.

I also added a spring underneath between the wedging nut and the
stock.
Helps to release it a bit sooner.

What it really needs is the cam-lock mod but I'm lazy...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


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Old May 16th 19, 07:15 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:56:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


I'm sure that wouldn't make it any worse but the main problem is part
#1021 rocks around, sloppy below the bed. So if you loosen the bolt
slightly (actually the nut I see) and then try to move the tailstock it
jams up by going a little cockeyed. The spring I put above #1021 helped
by keeping some downward pressure on it.

https://i.postimg.cc/k57CcpQD/tailstock-parts.jpg

For what I do with it the ratchet wrench and spring combo works good
enough

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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Old May 16th 19, 08:28 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:56:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
You might try facing the bolt head and nut bearing surfaces square
with the shank and threads to see if that makes the tailstock lock
and
release with less rotation.

My lathe's tailstock was refitted with a 1/2-13 bolt that clamps
tight
(enough) or fully releases in 1/8 of a turn. I found an old wrench
like this and made a hex nut+washer that is 0.80" across the flats
to
fit it.
https://www.ebay.com/i/183811511075?chn=ps


I'm sure that wouldn't make it any worse but the main problem is
part
#1021 rocks around, sloppy below the bed. So if you loosen the bolt
slightly (actually the nut I see) and then try to move the tailstock
it
jams up by going a little cockeyed. The spring I put above #1021
helped
by keeping some downward pressure on it.

https://i.postimg.cc/k57CcpQD/tailstock-parts.jpg

For what I do with it the ratchet wrench and spring combo works good
enough

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI


On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible all
over.

I've fitted two surfaces I couldn't machine, a 5HP gas engine and its
welding-warped mounting plate on my log splitter, by marking the high
spot contacts by pulling sandpaper through and grinding the scratches
off with an angle grinder, then filing as the fit improved. I stopped
when a feeler gauge 0.003" thick (IIRC) wouldn't go into the open
corner, because the offset weight of the engine was interfering with a
delicate feel.


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Old May 16th 19, 09:35 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Carriage lock screw - Any reason not to

On Thu, 16 May 2019 15:28:15 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" wrote:

snip
On my lathe that part is a hunk of steel some trade school student
hogged out to replace the missing original. I filed and block-sanded
it until the end mill marks were the same degree of barely visible all
over.


Yeah, it's amazing what you can do with simple hand tools with a bit of
training, thought and wana-get-it-done attitude

A guide pin or two for that part on my lathe would help a lot. Or so I
think it would. If I was moving it often I would probably work on it
some more. The real solution for slick operation would be Steve's mod:

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20camlock.html

or something similar.

There are only a few days a year that I can comfortably work on it or
with it. Most of the time I end up taking care of stuff that just won't
wait any longer...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI



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